Hello All,
I'm using Ryobi Stud finder (https://www.bunnings.com.au/ryobi-stud-finder_p0034497) to locate the stud. Upon drilling using Super Wallmate (https://www.bunnings.com.au/ramset-super-wallmate-toggle-anchor-10-pack_p2260188) noticed the stud as a metal frame. Finding it difficult to pierce through the metal frame using Super Wallmate.
I was looking for wooden stud and ended up the stud finder locating 'Steel frame'. Is there a way to identify the stud as 'Steel frame' / 'Wooden stud' through the stud finder. The intent is to locate wooden stud and fix the super wall mate to it for mounting wall mount cabinet.
Please share your thoughts on this.
MM
Hi @nagumuthu,
Is your house constructed from metal or timber studs? Usually, it's one or the other, not both. Or is it a metal stud house that's had some additional work done with timber studs? To confuse things a little further, Ramset Super Wallmate Toggle Anchors get fixed in the plasterboard, not metal or timber studs. So, if anything, you'd be trying to avoid studs when using these fixings.
Were you, by chance, misled by the picture on the front of the packet? As to me, it looks like the fixture is being screwed into a timber stud, which it is not. It's just a side view of the wall cavity, which pictures the timber stud behind the fixture. The image I've included below is a better illustration of it being fixed into the cavity section. To fix them, avoid the metal studs that you've already located. They'll go straight into the plasterboard.
Please let me know if you have questions.
Mitchell
Hello Mitchell,
Thanks for your comment. Upon checking with the builder, I came to know that metal studs were used throughtout the house. I have drilled another hole (with Superwall mater - Ramset Anchor) near the metal stud to secure the wall mount cabinet.
Wondering on what anchor to use, when securing things to metal stud, as the next project will be fixing a TV to a metal stud.
Appreciate your comments on this.
Thanks.
Hello @nagumuthu
Can you please tell us what is the size of the TV and what kind of TV bracket are you using? This will allow our members to assess the size of the TV. We can then make recommendations on how to mount it. I also suggest having a quick look at this discussion - Mounting large 75" TV to a wall with a steel frame by @eneity. Some brackets sometimes are not wide enough to reach both sides of the stud. If it does not reach the sides, it will be necessary to use a timber panel as a mounting point for the TV bracket.
If you have any other questions, please let us know.
Eric
Very sage advice, @EricL,
With very large or heavy TV sets (they aren't as bad as they used to be), I would suggest 18mm structural plywood screwed to the studs,
use as many contact points in the "envelope" meaning as high and as wide as you can, use at least 50 mm long Tek-screws (for metal) and an impact driver,
being careful to avoid any wiring within the wall.
With any large TV, it shouldn't be that hard to have all of this behind the set itself, you can also paint the plywood the same colour as the wall
for asthetics.
When you mount your bracket for the TV, use Tek-screws for wood, into the plywood at all points that you need to make the bracket robust before you mount the TV to the bracket.
It is a lot harder to explain this over the Net than it is to actually do it.
Let us know how you get on.
Cheers,
Mike T.
Hello @MikeTNZ
Let me tag @nagumuthu to make them aware of your recommendations. I think it's always for the best to put as much support as possible especially when you are hanging a 30kg+ tv on your wall.
Hello @MitchellMc @EricL @MikeTNZ and all
Referencing to this discussion, to fix a wall mounted cabinet to plaster ( within the area of blue coloured painters tape as shown in below image), screwed 'Ramset Superwall mate' to one extrement end of the fixture that holds the cabinet.
Unfortunately drilling hole ( at the location available in the fixture ) on the other end of the fixture ended up in front of metal studs. Tried another location and found the metal stud again, as informed in below image. The weight of the cabinet is around 12Kg.
What is the type of screw, I need to buy from Bunnings that pierces through the metal stud and holds the fixture in place for mounting the wall cabinet to the plaster.
Regards
M.Muthu
For the steel frame behind the plaster, I understood from the builder that the steel frame thickness is 0.7mm and the cross section is unknown.
I often over-engineer my fixings, I suggest using the Ramset Super Wallmate Toggle Anchors 3 more times on the plasterboard side of the wall. One below the one you've already installed and two more for the centre of the cabinet. I then suggest using Zenith 12G x 65mm Galvanised Hex Head Metal Screws on the right-hand side where the steel studs are. I recommend a minimum of three screws one for the top, middle and bottom of the cabinet.
If you need further assistance, please let us know.
Hello @EricL
Thanks for your recommendation.
Sharing the view of the cabinet and wondering that on fixing the fastners at other recommended positions. Will Zenith Metal screw 12G bear the load of 20Kg?
Best regards
Thank you for posting pictures of your wall cabinet. If the metal bar will be carrying all the weight of the cabinet, I suggest adding two extra mounting points on the bar. I suggest using Ramset Super Wallmate Toggle Anchors if there are no steel studs behind the wall, but if you happen to hit another steel stud, I suggest using Zenith 12G x 45mm Galvanised Hex Head Metal Screws.
I've placed an image below to give you an idea of where to add the extra mounting points. You will at least have four anchor points instead of just two. Please tell me what you think.
A 12 Gauge screw has a diameter of about 5.5mm in our "money", depending upon how many of these you are going to use to hang your cabinet and the total load (weight) inside the cabinet, that you want to store in there, I would probably err on the side of caution and safety and say no.
What exactly are you screwing these screws into behind the wall?
Like @EricL said above, there is absolutely nothing wrong with over-engineering something like this, your prep work to get the wall to support a weight like this is very important, especially if the load is in a very "concentrated" lateral area across the width of the cabinet, if you use too few fasteners,
the end result will be that the fasteners will give up, one by one, with eventual catastrophic failure.
I'm more than willing to help you out if you can give me this further information to help you come up with a solution.
Hello @MikeTNZ @EricL @MitchellMc
Thanks for your comment and proposal.
Please refer to the video from the link. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xRTPFXgijdgUwbnNMFtiCd0sp4gH0zWo/view?usp=drivesdk.
Looks Ryobi stud finder is not detecting metal stud and always the last light is on. I ‘m wondering on its function for the purpose. Can it detect metal stud ?
Secondly at all times ‘AC detection’ is on. (red light). That should not be. Isn’t.
Thirdly, noticed the metal stud spans across the last two drilled holes (from the video) (in the plaster). Electrical wires might pass through the metal stud housing and as such, it is not recommended to pass metal screws for securing the fixture (of the cabinet) to the plaster. Is my understanding correct.
That leaves the option of having anchor (Ramset) at the left and centre part of the fixture. Wondering on how the fixture can be secured at the right end, where the metal stud housing is present at the back of the plaster and metal screw option is ruled out considering electrical wires inside the metal stud housing.
Thanks
The metal stud housing spans across the extreme right end and even when a hole is drilled as recommended, it will hit the metal stud housing and a Ramset Anchor could not be used at the extreme right ( that includes 25% of the length from the right end of the fixture)
The cabinet (exactly the same as other ones) that is to be fixed within the blue taped zone, using the fixture (image shown in earlier posts) that should be secured to the plaster board.
This detector is suitable for metal studs. Try turning the unit on and calibrating it off the stud instead of over it. I suspect that is why you're not getting a proper reading and the AC detection light is constantly on. "Place the unit against the wall and press and hold one or both ON/OFF buttons. Hold the product still to allow the unit to calibrate. When the calibration process is completed, the LED lights will illuminate in sequence and then all flash once. NOTE: Do not place the unit over a stud during the calibration process.".
Once the detector is functioning correctly, locate the left-hand side of the metal frame on the right of your taped area. A Wallmate toggle can be placed in the plaster just off its edge. Typically wall cabinets are screwed to each other, so you'd be screwing the new cabinet to the existing one. That will aid in supporting the right-hand side, but you'll still need additional fixing in the metal stud. Have another check once the detector is calibrated correctly to see if AC is present in the area of the right-hand side fixings, and if not, use Zenith 12G x 65mm Galvanised Hex Head Metal Screws to screw the bracket to the metal stud.
Hi @MitchellMc,
Brilliant explanation, it is all in the calibration.
These types of detectors work on density of materials under the sensing head.
One other thing, with the AC detection thing, always check on both sides of the wall that there are no socket-outlets or switches below
where you are about to drill into.
If there are fittings on the wall in the same vicinity, seek the services of a qualified electrician BEFORE you start drilling into the wall,
I have been down this particular road so many times with homeowners, it winds up getting quite expensive, when a simple heads-up
would have saved a lot of time and money.
