How to use Multicrop clay breaker?

Hi Team,

I'm using multicrop hose-on claybreaker and followed the instruction. Looks like the liquid is not 'mixing' /used accordingly as level remains almost the same after watering 30 to 45 mins to a surface of 40 sq metre. May I know how long does it normally take to empty the container? And just want to know whether it is ok to pour the concentrated liquid directly on the soil? Thanking you all in advance.

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Comments

Jason

Hi @Mic,

Welcome to Bunnings Workshop. We're pleased to have you join the community and look forward to reading all about your projects and plans for around the house and garden.

Let me tag a few helpful members for their thoughts on using this hose-on product: @Noelle, @mich1972, @Marty_greenshed and @robchin. Our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. expert @EricL will also be happy to assist as soon as possible. Thanks for your patience in the meantime.

Jason

robchin

Wow @Mic - sounds like you have the soil from hell. Might be best to send a picture to help with this.

BUT sounds like you have an impervious layer at the surface. Fairly simple solution to your immediate problem but might not be a long term solution. Get a good quality pitchfork and put a lot of holes in the area you are wanting to treat - the deeper the better. That will allow the solution to penetrate. https://www.bunnings.com.au/trojan-fibreglass-d-handle-garden-fork_p3360925

But this is not going to fix your problem overnight.

I would be aiming to incorporate some organic matter into soil - by digging in some compost.

Unfortunately spraying on a bit of liquid clay breaker by itself won't help very quickly.

Dave-1

Afternoon @Mic

@robchin beat me to the punch 🙂 Id be trying what he is suggesting 🙂

If you ghave some pics of teh area it could also help us out with suggestions. I have a very heavy clay bases soil around my area. I have tried the pitchfork idea with the grass seed and it kind of worked, tho havnt tried breaking down the clay content. The only way I know to do that for sure is to add soil to it and break it down that way.

A warm welcome to the Bunnings community 🙂 Lots of interesting projects for anbout teh garden and answers to a whole range of stuff are in here. Hopefully some of them will be able to help you out.

Dave

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @Mic

Those pesky hose things never seam to work. I would pour a20 to 40 mm amount into watering can and section the area add it that way.

If you ever get one of those hose sprayers to work empty it and keep it for next time they dont work.

Also not all clays respond to gypsum treatments. Test your dirt clumps in a jar of water if in a couple of days it breaks down into loose particals it will work better. My clay just sits there in a lump in the jar. So organic mulch like whoflungdung will feed the worms and there presents will help turn clay into ok soil by digging holes and adding worm castings into clay.

mich1972

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/32729#Comment_32729

Agreed with @robchin @Mic 😊🪴

Jason

Great to see you receive plenty of expert advice @Mic.

Please let us know if you need anything further.

Jason

Mic

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/32756#Comment_32756

Thanks all for your valuable response. It's a lot of pain to treat clay soil. Alternatively I have been thinking of having raised beds garden instead for half of my backyard. And with rest of 21 sq m (7x3), I intend to have dolomite sand and quarry rubble about 100 mm depth on top of the clay + a layer of decorative pebbles on the very top. Do u think it is a good idea and won't have any drainage issue? Thanks.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/78763#Comment_78763

Afternoon @Mic

Depending on the slope of your yard (Any chance of a couple of photos?) Even having rubble could still have water pooling underneath. Have a look where the water runs when it rains, even put a few sticks in the ground where it mainly pools and flows then work with it. If the water pools in spots consider having those spots where your garden beds sit? If it runs a length of the yard then maybe drainage or more quarry rubble. I have clay and the water does soak in, its just slower is all.

Dave

Mic

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/103616#Comment_103616

Hi Dave, it is quite flat and I have almost got my 100 mm depth ready.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/118855#Comment_118855

Good Evening @Mic

Now thats a bit of clay! 🙂 Still I would use that to your advantage, I Understand your use of quarry rubble now. So I am thinking that wherever you place your raised garden beds is where you shape the ground leading to it in a shallow dish shape. That way excess water will pool at the beds. Being flat does your yard lead to anyone elses yard (as in will your landscaping impact the neighbours?) One thing I just thought of, when I put in my raised gardens much for the same reason you have I should have put in some water pipes as in the black irrigation pipes, would save myself a lot of time and water plus not watering the leaves of my plants! At this point you could dig the shallow dish drain for the pipes and do two jobs at one time. 🙂

Love it when a garden will look after itself as much as possible.

Dave

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/118855#Comment_118855

Hi @Mic

It's great that you've received excellent advice from our members. Thanks for posting photos of the area you are trying to treat. Looking at the pictures, it appears that the bottled clay breaker will not be enough to change the nature of the clay soil in the area. I recommend using Richgro 15kg Natural Gypsum Clay Breaker. It helps improve the physical condition of heavy clay soils. Soil particles are brought together into clumps, thus enabling better water penetration.

Here is a link to our best advice: How do you improve clay soil?

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Mic

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/127938#Comment_127938

Hi Eric,

Yes..I will follow your advise and will be using gypsum. Pic today is a bit what I'm aiming especially the white marbles without the lawn. For the 21 sq (pic yesterday) metres space, Instead of dolomite and rubble, I will get 70 mm depth of 20 mm blue metal gravel then 30 mm depth of 20mm marbles on top. I will have 2 columns of 3 paving 400x400x40 each to my shed. Is the new plan feasible to help with drainage too? Do I need to install french drainage of 65 mm ag slotted pipe? Is the new plan better/feasible? Many thanks for all your advice.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/133854#Comment_133854

Hi @Mic

My only added suggestions to your plan are to make sure you have a slope going towards the French drain and I recommend using 100mm drain coil for maximum drainage of the excess water.

If you need further assistance, please let me know.

Eric

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