How to prepare architraves before painting (wall features) them ?

Sugar

Hello legends, and @MitchellMc @JacobZ @EricL 

Since last 1 week I am working on wall featuring project ( installing architraves on my entry hall and around living areas). I will share my whole project later once it finishes. I have already finished gluing and nailing them. However, I am preparing them for colouring and currently stuck with confusion. I am trying to follow the proper way so that it looks more professional when it finishes. 

Two products I am having at the moment are 

Here are my questions

1.) For the gaps like this where two meets at 45 degree, what is best to use Wood filler or No More Gaps (Selleys) 

2.) For gaps with 45 degree ( like in question 1), I gave a try with wood filler (anyway) and it looks like this ? Does it look good ? will the joining indicated in  Blue arrow hide when I give color to this architraves ?

following is also using woodfiller like above picture. 

3.) What is the purpose of sanding ? Shall we sand to that extent where the gaps or joins become smooth although the sanding has to leave some Woodfiller or wall putty? If we are leaving some quantity there although it is showing some good transition around joins, will the paint works okay in such case (on top of the left woodfiller)?

4.) I put wood filler on the 45 degree joints on these smaller architraves as well. Did I do something I could have got away without doing it? Was it unnecessary? Was it something i could have hidden with paint? The sanding is becoming very hard as they have features on it. 

When I finished sanding, they are looking like this 

If not needed, I just washed with wet clothes and speed up my process. However, doing that cleans the filler used to hide nails, which I brought this primarily for.

5.) I believe we have to use Shelly "No More gap" on the top and at the bottom of this big architraves and also fo smaller if needed ? And if we are doing this, does this have to be after the painting or before the painting is done?

6.) This is most annoying one - I got carried away with using Liquid nail and they started ozzing out. I am finding hard to get rid of them and the results are here, and in many places.

I guess I can use wall putty where tip of the stanley blade has made damaged ?

Mostly they have peeled the existing color. 

I would really like to thank you all if you have come this far 🙂 

This will help me to speed up my project and would like to thank you for suggestion and recommendation. 

Peace !

MitchellMc

Hi @Sugar,

You are doing well so far.

I know how difficult it is to get 45-degree joins in timber to match. You've done a pretty good job at filling the area. When timber joins neatly on a corner, there is a sharp join, and currently, you have a bit of a flat section. You could add more filling and try to get this join to look a bit crisper. For the internal 45-degree join, I'd fill the gap with the caulking product and wait for it to cure. You can then apply some wood filler over it so you can sand the profile into it.

Any joins should be sanded enough that you can't feel them with your fingertips. If you can feel the transition, you'll likely see it once you have finished painting. Sanding can be a pain, especially with coves, curves, and lots of details. Paint tends to fill tiny gaps, so smaller joint gaps in the corners of your frame would likely be filled by the paint.

The caulking gap filler should be used above and below the boards where there is a gap between them and the wall.

For the areas where the paint has peeled and been removed from the wall, I would sand them smoothly with 240-grit sandpaper. Once you paint over the area, they should be disguised. I don't think you'll need to fill them.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell