How to design door threshold up to newly tiled area 85mm height with sloped tiled area?

We're in the middle of reno'ing our laundry and the screed was sloped at roughly 1:100 to drain. This meant that across one of the doorways there is a height difference of approx 8mm difference at either side. The screed + tiles also added approx 85mm of height difference between the floors at this door as well. I want to have a wooden threshold as the transition between rooms, however I'm not sure how to handle the 8mm of height difference across the doorway.

- sloping the threshold would look stupid when the door is closed as the gap would be inconsistent

- not sloping the threshold might look stupid from the tiled room side as you'll see the height difference

I was thinking of maybe extending the threshold slightly into the tiled area and cutting a "sloped" chamfer (i.e. one side will have a wide chamfer than the other, like this below. The bottom tile-side of the chamfer would have an equal height the whole way along. I'm this would help to make it look a little better

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I'm seeking ideas for what is the correct way to do this? Or some other alternatives?

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JacobZ

Hi @njminchin,

A warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, and thank you for your question.

I don't think there is a "correct" way to do this, and much of the choice comes down to personal preference and where you would like to hide the issue.

My opinion is that you should cut the timber transition so that the bottom edge follows the line of the concrete while the top edge is perfectly level with no chamfer. Any slight undulations on the floor will show on the bottom edge of the transition, but they can be covered with coloured silicone.

I feel that this would look cleaner than chamfering the top edge as the bottom edge of the timber will not draw the eye in the same way the top will. There also won't be any tactile difference that could be felt underfoot.

Allow me to tag @Nailbag, @TedBear and @Jewelleryrescue for their thoughts.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

Nailbag

Hi @njminchin

@again u with agree there is no right or wrong. I would go with your design allowing a few mm clearance from the ground for debris etc. It’s the most cosmetically better finish to me as well

Nailbag

TedBear

Hi @njminchin , sorry to come in late on this post. I agree with @JacobZ that the transition should be flat, in line with the unsloped floor, for reasons of safety. Making a transition with two different angles could create a tripping hazard, especially for visitors. The different surface angles would be masked by them being part of the one unit, which could go unnoticed by someone stepping on it.

I suggest that you first put a strip of aluminium edging along the sloping tiled edged, trimmed to match the slope of the top edge. Then butt the timber transition to that. The difference in surfaces will then be visible, but not prominent.

njminchin

Thanks all for the replies. @TedBear I have the aluminium trim as the water stop already and I was already wanting to trim it to height, as one side of the door it's higher than the other. I wasn't sure yet how I was going to trim it. I was thinking maybe a carbide router bit and router as then I can get it slightly proud and level with the tiles, at least up until the router frame hits the door frame. Then possibly use a hacksaw blade to take it to the door frame. Butting to this is how my parents' house is done, however in doing it this way, the block would have to be different heights at either side of the door frame, and the gap below the door would therefore be different at either side. one side will be 5mm, the other will be ~13mm. Maybe it won't be that noticeable?

TedBear

Hi @njminchin

as I imagine it (having not seen the real situation), the wooden block would be of even height so that it's top is parallel to the lower floor that it sits on and would therefore also be parallel to the lower door edge.

The visual difference in floor slopes that would be seen, will only be on the front edge of the aluminium strip (where you will slope its top edge to match the tiled floor level. This should be quite presentable and the sloped-edge of the aluminium strip will also provide a subtle, visual warning that there is a difference in slope in the floors.

I find that Aluminium, being soft, can be easily shaped with a file (I recommend draw filing, especially when you get close to the final line), then the edge can be rounded off to suit, with a fine file. (If it's a long way too high, cut it closer to the line first.)

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