Hi all, I've recently moved into a new (not to be confused with newly constructed) property, and things aren't going well. There are a heap of issues which weren't immediately apparent during pre-purchase inspections, inclusive of the large shed which I had grand plans for (e.g., 3D printing area, safes and workbenches, golf simulator, gym, etc.). The condition of the shed is rather derelict, and apart from being dirty and covered in cobwebs, there are holes in the roof and walls (seemingly where bolts and screws have been removed rather than damage), poor lighting and potentially uncompliant and hazardous electrical wiring, gaps between the walls and concrete slab, and gaps between the sliding doors (which are jammed/obstructed and don't slide), the latter two resulting in significant dirt and water ingress. Due to the local climate, waterproofing seems to be an afterthought (with many of the buildings lacking proper drainage, gutters, downpipes, etc.), which (as I've recently learned) is quite problematic when it actually does rain. I've been debating whether to tear the shed down and build a replacement, but the structure seems sturdy (as steel beams are used as part of the framing, and based on the various fittings, were likely used as a hoist for car parts), so I'm inclined to attempt the repairs, even if I'm unsure what is involved at this stage. At minimum, the following remediations would be required: * Remove the dirt and debris, both externally and internally. My thoughts were that performing a pressure wash would likely be a good starting point, but perhaps a soft wash with a cleaning solution should be performed prior? Obviously, the electrical outlets and light fittings will need to be covered to prevent water ingress. * Waterproof the gaps between the walls and concrete slab. Due to the size of the gaps, I don't believe using a sealant and/or metal trim externally will be sufficient (as suggested in this guide). I've noticed that internally there is a concrete/gravel mixture used in the areas that aren't leaking, so perhaps this is a decent approach. * Patch the holes in the roof and walls with flashing tape and/or sealant. * Install additional lighting and verify the safety and functionality of the electrical wiring. Not much I can do in this area, so hopefully a qualified electrician can resolve it in a cost-effective manner. * Reduce or eliminate the gaps in the sliding doors which are facilitating water ingress. I'm unsure how to approach this. Seemingly, the lack of downpipe and drainage externally is the main cause of water pooling within this area. Perhaps the sliding doors need to be removed and replaced with stationary/enclosed walls? Whilst it would be good to have the sliding doors functional if I ever desired to park my car in there, the priority is preventing water ingress. Any ideas on the above would be greatly appreciated (with #2, #3, and #5 being the priorities). Unfortunately, I have a sizeable amount of expensive tools and equipment and nowhere else to store them, so the longer this goes unaddressed, the more likely it is that the tools and equipment will be damaged directly by moisture or indirectly by oxidisation/rust. Huge thanks in advance!

How can I repair this dilapidated and leaking shed?

Hi all,

I've recently moved into a new (not to be confused with newly constructed) property, and things aren't going well. There are a heap of issues which weren't immediately apparent during pre-purchase inspections, inclusive of the large shed which I had grand plans for (e.g., 3D printing area, safes and workbenches, golf simulator, gym, etc.).

The condition of the shed is rather derelict, and apart from being dirty and covered in cobwebs, there are holes in the roof and walls (seemingly where bolts and screws have been removed rather than damage), poor lighting and potentially uncompliant and hazardous electrical wiring, gaps between the walls and concrete slab, and gaps between the sliding doors (which are jammed/obstructed and don't slide), the latter two resulting in significant dirt and water ingress.

Due to the local climate, waterproofing seems to be an afterthought (with many of the buildings lacking proper drainage, gutters, downpipes, etc.), which (as I've recently learned) is quite problematic when it actually does rain.

I've been debating whether to tear the shed down and build a replacement, but the structure seems sturdy (as steel beams are used as part of the framing, and based on the various fittings, were likely used as a hoist for car parts), so I'm inclined to attempt the repairs, even if I'm unsure what is involved at this stage.

At minimum, the following remediations would be required:

Remove the dirt and debris, both externally and internally. My thoughts were that performing a pressure wash would likely be a good starting point, but perhaps a soft wash with a cleaning solution should be performed prior? Obviously, the electrical outlets and light fittings will need to be covered to prevent water ingress.
Waterproof the gaps between the walls and concrete slab. Due to the size of the gaps, I don't believe using a sealant and/or metal trim externally will be sufficient (as suggested in this guide). I've noticed that internally there is a concrete/gravel mixture used in the areas that aren't leaking, so perhaps this is a decent approach.
Patch the holes in the roof and walls with flashing tape and/or sealant.
Install additional lighting and verify the safety and functionality of the electrical wiring. Not much I can do in this area, so hopefully a qualified electrician can resolve it in a cost-effective manner.
Reduce or eliminate the gaps in the sliding doors which are facilitating water ingress. I'm unsure how to approach this. Seemingly, the lack of downpipe and drainage externally is the main cause of water pooling within this area. Perhaps the sliding doors need to be removed and replaced with stationary/enclosed walls? Whilst it would be good to have the sliding doors functional if I ever desired to park my car in there, the priority is preventing water ingress.

Any ideas on the above would be greatly appreciated (with #2, #3, and #5 being the priorities). Unfortunately, I have a sizeable amount of expensive tools and equipment and nowhere else to store them, so the longer this goes unaddressed, the more likely it is that the tools and equipment will be damaged directly by moisture or indirectly by oxidisation/rust.

Huge thanks in advance!

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EricL

Hello @LeakyShed

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your shed.

I'm currently in the same situation as you are. The first thing I addressed was number three on your list which is to patch up the holes in the roof and walls. Now that all the leaks are fixed the local wildlife is currently using it as a bed and breakfast. Number two on your list is the gap between wall and slab, again exactly the same issue as mine, I propose building a concrete plinth 50mm in height and 50mm thick. This will serve as a miniature dam and prevent water from travelling inside the shed. To prevent damaging the shed walls, I suggest using bitumen paint at the bottom before you concrete over it. However, I suggest doing number five first before you build the plinth.

Number five which is eliminating the gaps is indeed a challenge. If the wall panels can be persuaded to join one another then it will be possible to rivet them together. Larger gaps will need to be covered with timber to reduce the gap to a manageable level. I would have a hard think about the sliding door to the shed whether you wish to keep it or not. If not, then you can relevel the door to the wall and fix it into place eliminating a major gap in your shed.

I made the mistake of trusting the last shed I used when I was still renting. All my power garden equipment had a fine coat of mould as moisture get trapped in the shed. Because you have equipment that needs to be protected, I suggest building a shed inside the shed. I recommend using Ecoply 2400 x 1200 x 12mm Non-Structural Plywood - 12mm and creating a safe dry space for your equipment, you can use 70x35 to brace the shed corners and cover the top with builder's plastic.

This is a stop gap measure to protect your equipment while you address the viability of your shed. Once the shed is watertight and proper ventilation has been addressed you can then begin to plan on how to turn the space into something useful.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1, @Jewelleryrescue, @TedBear and @JoeAzza for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Noyade

Hi @LeakyShed and @EricL

I would call this a poor man's solution/suggestion. I have a small shed door that has too much gap at the bottom. When it rained, water hit outside concrete then splattered through the gap and eventually making its way along the shed floor.

I pop-riveted a length of rubber from the inside as you can see below. I was worried about longevity - but I did this around 20 years ago and haven't had to replace it. Not a drop gets past it now.

I was wondering as a 'temporary' measure you could try it on some of the wall areas seen above?

Just a thought.

Cheers!

Dave-1

Good Morning @LeakyShed

I love sheds 🙂 really do as they have so much potential!

With the state yours is in and for what you want to do in it I would consider on either drastically modding it or replacing it. I couldnt see the steel beams you mentioned inside the shed tho.

Potential.

Remove the walls (one at a time) and install a proper stud wall. Allowing for a gap at the bottom in case of water.

I am unsure of what type of trusses you have in the shed but something to consider as a tin shed in summer will be a sweat box at the very least. The trusses will have to hold a ceiling or insulation of some kind. (The screw holes are easily fixed but I suspect the roof wont hold a bodys weight so fix from underneath)

Drainage on the outside of the shed. I would install a deep grill drain around your shed area. Making sure the water in the drain will drain away freely.

The photo of the concrete path next to the fence and the wall of the shed. If the concrete is up against the shed it may need to be sealed where it touches.

Short term fix.

One thing you could do to raise your floor 40mm is to lay pavers across the inside straight on the concrete slab, keeping the pavers short of the walls. That way when it rains the surface of the floor wont have water on it tho dampness may travel up through the pavers.

If you sort the drainage issue first then the rest drop into a range of not so urgent. Even if you dempolish the shed and install a new one drainage should be a priority. especially to stop it before it gets a chance to be an issue.

Dave

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