How to relocate coastal rosemary hedge?

melanietham

Hi there, 

I'm planning to reallocate a hedge plant, (I think it's call Coastal Rosemary) to an empty space at the front yard. The space usually get some decent sunlight. Can you please provide a step by step guide so that I won't stress  the plant ? 

I did tried once without experience and end up killing the hedge 🙁  On the second photo is another hedge that's been browning out of a sudden. Is there a way to revive it ? 

 

Thanks in advance!

Cheers,

Melanie 

EricL

Hello @melanietham 

Thank you for sharing your question about relocating your coastal rosemary hedges. 

It looks like Westringia, or coastal rosemary, a hardy native with fine leaves and small white flowers. It tolerates sun and wind but dislikes heavy or waterlogged soil. Moving one takes care, especially in warm weather, and sudden dieback on an existing plant usually links to roots or drainage.

Relocating a healthy shrub

Timing matters most. The best moment is autumn, winter or early spring, on a cool, still, cloudy day. Avoid hot or windy periods.

Prepare the new site before lifting. Westringia thrives in free-draining soil, so raise the bed if it is heavy clay and mix in coarse sand or gravel. Dig a hole twice as wide as the expected root ball but no deeper. Fill once with water to check that it drains within an hour. Mark which side of the shrub faces north so you can keep the same orientation.

Water the plant deeply the day before. On moving day, trim the outer growth lightly, around a quarter to reduce water demand, but always leave foliage on each stem. Avoid fertiliser now; plan instead to use seaweed tonic after planting.

Dig wide to keep a good root ball, about one third to half of the canopy’s spread. Cut down in a circle, then undercut to free the roots. Slide a tarp or hessian beneath to lift without crumbling. Keep roots shaded and damp during the move.

Plant at the same depth it was growing. Backfill with the original soil, improved if needed for drainage, and firm lightly without compacting. Water in deeply, then drench with seaweed solution. Mulch to five centimetres, keeping stems clear. In an exposed position, rig temporary shade or a small windbreak for two or three weeks.

Aftercare

Keep soil evenly moist for six to eight weeks, never soggy. Let the surface dry slightly before watering again. In cooler months this may be once a week, in warmer weather more often. Once new growth appears, reduce watering. Hold back on fertiliser until re-established, then use a low-phosphorus native product.

If you must move in hot weather, water heavily the night before, transplant early in the morning, prune more of the outer foliage, and shade the shrub for the first fortnight. Check moisture daily and respond quickly if wilting appears.

Reviving a browning shrub

One-sided browning often signals root damage, collar rot, or uneven water. Start by scratching bark on affected stems. If green lies beneath, they can recover; if dry, prune back to living wood.

Clear mulch away from the crown so air can circulate. Look for dark or soft tissue at the base, a sign of rot from poor drainage or a buried crown. Probe ten centimetres into the soil on both sides. If one is sodden, improve drainage by gently loosening around the dripline and reducing excess watering. If bone dry, provide steady deep watering.

Localised injury from cut roots, pet urine, or chemical drift can also scorch a section. Remove dead wood, open the canopy slightly, and use seaweed tonic fortnightly to help roots recover without forcing soft growth.

If decline continues in heavy soil, root rot may be involved. Drainage improvement is the first step. Some gardeners turn to phosphite products for natives, but these should be used only according to directions.

Long-term recovery

Once the shrub stabilises and new shoots appear, prune lightly each season rather than cutting hard into bare stems. A gentle feed in spring with native fertiliser will encourage denser regrowth.

For insurance, strike cuttings. Take ten-centimetre semi-hardwood tips from healthy shoots, strip the lower leaves, dip in hormone if available, and pot into a sharp, sandy mix. These root readily and provide backup plants.

If you need further assistance, lease let us know.

Eric