How to fix loose nails on balcony joist brackets?

Hello, I'm currently redoing my balcony and while I was pulling up the old decking I've found that the joist brackets are fairly warped and have loose nails. The balcony itself is front supported and the joists still seem to be sitting quite squarely in against the wall. Wondering if just bashing in the loose ones will be fine or if this could indicate bigger problems down the line and I should consider adding some screws or something?

I'm very much an amateur at building so any other advice I may not be considering would be very much appreciated.

Thank you!

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Comments

AlanM52

Hi @GoughWitlof,

I would replace the nails with Type 17 countersink screws.

Screws have superior grip so you don't need to drive a screw into every bracket hole.

Also check-out this discussion.

Cheers

EricL

Hello @GoughWitlof

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us and thanks for sharing your question about your balcony.

It's great that you've received excellent advice from @AlanM52. Just to add an extra idea to the suggestion made, I propose hammering in the loose nails and adding extra screws to the plate.

Let me call on our experienced members @Nailbag and @Dave-1 for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @GoughWitlof

It's a large difficult job to simply pry out the old nails to replace them with larger ones or screws. It's easier to pry each bracket off, but thats also very difficult from first hand experience. If the timbers are all good which they look like they are, I would drill pilot holes just through brackets and then drive screws in as @AlanM52 suggested. Much easier, quicker and will serve the same purpose. 3-4 either side will be fine.

Nailbag

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/61982#Comment_61982

Hi @GoughWitlof,

I’m just trying to get my head around the perspective of the photos, but it looks like we’re looking down at an elevated balcony, likely on the second floor or even higher, with another level below. I mention that because balcony fixings back to the building facade are statistically one of the most common causes of deck and balcony collapse. I’m not saying there is definitely something seriously wrong here, but it’s also not a situation where I’d be comfortable taking any risks.

While the joists may still appear to be sitting square against the wall, loose or backed-out fixings at this height are something to treat very carefully. Simply bashing the nails back in would not be my recommendation, especially if they’ve worked their way out over time rather than never being fully driven in. That can indicate timber movement, swelling from moisture, or fixings that are no longer providing reliable holding power.

What particularly concerns me is the second image. It appears the joist may have swollen, pushing against the ledger or wall plate and effectively forcing the joist hanger away from it, backing out the nails. In that situation, the bracket usually needs to be removed, the timber assessed, and the hanger repositioned or replaced and refixed correctly. Driving those nails back in is unlikely to be a long-term or safe fix.

There’s also the safety aspect of the work itself. Replacing decking boards on an elevated balcony is not a low-risk job, especially for an amateur. As boards are removed further out, you’ll be standing on joists close to the edge, which is inherently unsafe without proper fall protection. Being that close to a drop without a harness or professional setup is a serious risk.

Given the height, the loosened fixings, and what looks like timber movement, my strong recommendation would be to enlist a qualified carpenter or builder. They can properly inspect the joist-to-wall connections, assess whether there are any broader structural issues, and carry out the necessary repairs so the balcony is safe and compliant. It’s absolutely the right call here to get a professional involved, and it’s far better to be cautious when it comes to elevated decks and balconies.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

GoughWitlof

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/61971#Comment_61971

Thank you very much for your advice @AlanM52. I've taken your advice and screwed some additional Galvanized Type 17 Countersunk screws into the brackets. My only concern with this is that the screws are not sitting particularly flush with the brackets/wood. Would this potentially cause any moisture or rot problems long term? Picture attached to show what I've done

Noyade

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/93487#Comment_93487

Hi @MitchellMc

"I’m just trying to get my head around the perspective of the photos"

Same here. I'm not comprehending the situation. I gather the steel provides a frame - but to me, should these brackets and the associated wood fail - you fall?

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/113015#Comment_113015

Hi @Noyade,

Yes, this appears to be the connections to the building facade.

Mitchell

GoughWitlof

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/113015#Comment_113015

Here's a few shots from some other angles to hopefully provide a bit more context. I've mostly finished putting the new decking in, though I'm just holding off on putting the last slat on until I hear back about whether or not Ive done something catastrophic with those screws 😅. It all feels pretty secure but yes it does seem that those brackets are what's holding the back end of the joists to the square frame of the balcony so probably a good idea to reinforce it.

I actually have one follow up question, the new decking I'm using is a few millimetres thicker than the old decking and as a result, the slat thats sitting underneath the door frame I had to really wedge in there with a mallet to make it fit. Is this a serious concern for warping issues or do you think I can get away with it?

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/124076#Comment_124076

Hi @GoughWitlof,

Thank you for the additional photos. They certainly help to understand what we are looking at.

Typically, when installing joist hangers, you would use Timber Connector Screws as opposed to the ones that you have used. What you have done is not going to cause issues, but they are not the typical screws you would use.

The updated photo of the joist hanger looks good, but I would still keep an eye on it to check that the nails are not working themselves out again and consider changing the screws to connector screws.

Composite decking does expand and contract a fair bit, so if that decking board is in there tight, then it would be in your best interests to trim it down or adjust something to give it a bit more room to move as they can warp or buckle if under too much pressure. If you can take some photos, we could certainly look at how this might be possible.

Jacob

GoughWitlof

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/131425#Comment_131425

Here are pictures of either side of the board and as much of the whole thing as I could fit into frame (excuse the belly) there's a few mm of space on the right side, not quite as much on the left. Please don't judge me too harshly on the straightness of the cuts, my first time using a jigsaw and it was struggling to get through those boards. So basically it is wedged in tight with the door frame, didn't notice any flexing of the frame as I was bashing it in though and the door still opens and closes fine. I do have some issues with the door being a bit sticky when it's wet and cold already though and as you can probably tell, the whole frame isn't in exactly the best shape. Will probably have to do something about that at some point too. At any rate I would greatly appreciate any insight into whether or not this will be an immediate or longer term issue.

Thank you very much.

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135900#Comment_135900

Hi @GoughWitlof,

Most of the expansion happens laterally, so the gaps on either end of the decking board are good.

I don't think there is any real need to remove it or alter anything. It looks like a snug fit, but nothing seems to be bulging out or cracking.

The only thing I would suggest is running a bead of clear silicone between the top of the decking board and the door frame to prevent water from getting underneath the door frame and sitting there slowly rotting it out.

You can use How To Silicone a Gap as an example of what is involved.

Jacob

GoughWitlof

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138981#Comment_138981

Good idea on the silicone. Thank you very much to everyone in this thread for all your help. Feeling quite confident in the project now!

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/141047#Comment_141047

Good Afternoon @GoughWitlof

I am a bit late to the party 🙂 Tho not much left really to add to what has been said.

The way the floor beams are connected to the house I would keep an eye on. any bouncyness in the flooring I would imediatly investiagte.

Longer screws through pilot holes is probarlly the way I would go well as has been suggested 🙂

With the boards, Id be tempted to trim down a ting bit as having things too tight will cause bulging issues down the track.

Nice work with what you have done 🙂

I would bump up the list the restore of the doors on the "sooner than later" as they are fine now but that paint flaking means that moisture can get in and accelerate the issues.

Dave

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