All blog posts in Bunnings Workshop community

Re: How to build a desk

MitchellMc — Tue, 23 Feb 2021 01:51:25 GMT

A fantastic guide that is easy to follow . Well done.

I really like this desk's styling and would love to build something similar in the near future. I'll be following your instructions when I do.

Many thanks for sharing.

Mitchell

How to build a desk

Peggers — Tue, 23 Feb 2021 01:15:01 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

If you’ve been making do with the dining table while working from home, maybe it’s time to build a dedicated workspace.

This is a reasonably simple build - one that could help you progress further from beginner level, with a few new skills involved.

Inspiration for this How To guide comes from the Computer desk build by Bunnings Workshop member @Nham. Further inspiration was taken from the Rustic computer desk created by @jeevanfranciz.

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Steps

Step 1

Take the 1800mm x 90mm plank of Tasmanian Oak and measure and cut two pieces 405mm long for your sides and a 390mm section for the central divider.

Step 2

For the desktop, we want a smooth and clean finish, so the sides and divider should be attached using wood dowels and glue rather than screws.

Measure exactly corresponding holes - three will be enough - on the underside of the desktop, and the top of the sides and central divider. Be careful drilling into the desktop, as your holes should only be 10mm deep - just over halfway through. In the sides and divider you have more room to play with.

Insert the wood dowels with a small amount of wood glue on each, and attach the sides and central divider to the underside of the desktop.

. . .

Step 3

For the bottom of the desk, you can use screws rather than dowels. Screws are quicker, easier and won’t be seen.

Place the bottom panel of the desk on top of the sides and central divider in the correct position. Drill a hole through a corner of the panel into one of the sides and then secure with a 50mm screw. Then repeat for the rest of the side, the other side panel and the central divider.

This completes the main body of the desk.

Step 4

While the main body of the desk is still upside down, screw the table legs to each corner of the bottom panel. Measure 25mm in from the front and sides of the desk and screw the leg plate to the bottom of the desk - make sure this distance is uniform for all four legs.

Once attached, turn the body and legs over and the desk is really taking shape. In fact, you could finish at this point and varnish if you don’t want drawers.

. . .

Step 5

To make the drawers, first measure the entrance of the main body to see how big your drawer fronts need to be. If you’ve followed our instructions correctly, each drawer front should be 570mm long.

You’ll need four pieces of dressed pine 570mm long for the front and back of the drawers, and four pieces 360mm long for the sides.

Step 6

With the drawer front, back and sides complete, you need the base of the drawer. Cut your piece of 1200mm x 405mm x 18mm timber into two sections that are 530mm x 360mm. These need to be measured exactly so that they fit snugly in the centre of your drawer sides. In this instance that’s two pieces of wood 530mm by 360mm.

In the same way we joined the side panels and central divider to the desktop, we need to use dowels and glue to construct the drawer fronts, but the sides and back can use screws.

Start by attaching the sides, then screw on the back. When you have a firm structure, attach the drawer fronts with glue and dowels.

Check to see if your drawers fit correctly. If not, some light sanding might be required.

. .

Step 7

To finish the drawers, I reckon they look great with a vintage white effect to the fronts rather than just pine. You don’t need to paint the whole drawer, just the fronts. You won’t need a lot of paint, just one decent coat with a sample pot. When the paint has dried, take some fine grade sandpaper - 120 grit is perfect - and randomly sand back the paint to reveal underlying grains and create very small patches of wood. You get a weathered antique effect which will contrast really well with the dark wood of the desk body.

Finally, add the cabinet knobs to each drawer. Drill a hole through the drawer from the front, making sure you mark the exact centre of the front. Push the screw through and tighten the knob.

. .

Step 8

With the desk now complete you just need to add some varnish. It looks good if you varnish the body but leave the drawers matt to emphasise the contrast. You can add a dark stain to the desk body if you want to make the contrast even greater. Or equally you can varnish over the white vintage wood to give that a shine as well.

Your desk is now complete - just add a laptop and a mug of coffee!

. . .

Materials

2 Merbau Timber panels measuring 1200mm x 405mm x 18mm
1 piece of Dressed Tasmanian Oak measuring 1800mm x 90mm x 19mm
3 pieces of Dressed Pine 1800mm x 89mm x 19mm
1 piece of timber 1200mm x 405mm x 18mm
Pack of Timber Dowels
Pack of 50mm screws
Pack of chunky 12mm screws
Wood glue
250ml of Ultra Gloss Timber Varnish
250ml White sample pot of paint
2 cabinet knobs
1m sandpaper 120 grit
4 Hairpin table legs

Tools

Handsaw
Drill
Tape measure
Ruler or square
Pencil
Phillips screwdriver
Paint brush

Images

How to build a tiered plant stand

MitchellMc — Mon, 22 Feb 2021 00:36:34 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Save space by displaying your potted plants using this easy-to-build tiered plant stand.

The simple design makes it a fantastic project to build over a weekend. It requires minimal tools and woodworking experience.

This project is inspired by the popular garden planter stand by Bunnings Workshop member . Many thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us.

Steps

Step 1

Take your treated Pine sleepers and cut four lengths of 600mm and two lengths of 400mm using your circular saw. You will use these for the sides of the stand.

If you don’t have a circular saw you might like to take advantage of the timber cutting service at a Bunnings Warehouse.

. .

Step 2

Position the timber you’ve cut as per the image. Place one 600mm piece on the ground horizontally and the other 600mm and 400mm pieces vertically. Mark four locations per upright on the horizontal piece for the screws to be placed. Clamp your pieces before drilling to ensure they don’t move around.

. .

Step 3

Pre-drill the holes where you marked with the 8mm drill-bit and counter-sink those holes. Screw the timber together using the 75mm bugle head screws.

. .

Step 4

Start dry fitting the slats, spacing them evenly on the side panels. Ensure a gap is left between the boards for water drainage.

Step 5

Once you have the slats in position, pre-drill the ends with a 5mm drill-bit and counter-sink those holes. Now install the 40mm treated Pine screws, fixing the slats to the sides. Add a finishing slat to the top tier to prevent pots from falling off the top.

. . . .

Step 6

You can now coat your stand in your choice of exterior stain and varnish to protect it from the elements.

You’ve now completed an extremely functional pot stand that you can use to happily display your favourite plants.

. . .

Materials

2 x 200mm x 50mm treated Pine sleepers
10 x 75mm bugle head screws
100 x 8G x 40mm treated Pine screws
19 x 1.2m Cypress pickets
1L exterior varnish

Tools

Circular saw (if timber is not pre-cut)
Drill driver
5/8mm drill-bit
Counter-sink bit
Clamp
Paintbrush

Images

Re: How to build a fire pit

gns529 — Mon, 08 Feb 2021 02:31:48 GMT

So cool, and I love that there is step by step instructions

Re: Essential hand tools for D.I.Y. beginners

Noyade — Sun, 31 Jan 2021 23:04:56 GMT

They say: “Buy good quality and a variety of sizes. Don't use them as hammers!” @Noyade

Since I typed that - I am now the proud owner of a Kincrome "Shammer" - combined shifter and hammer. 😃

Shifting and Smacking

Re: Essential hand tools for D.I.Y. beginners

TedBear — Mon, 01 Feb 2021 09:32:36 GMT

May I add that another good use for a knife is for making cleaner cuts when using a saw. If you run the knife along your cut line on the face that you will see and then saw along it on the waste side of the line, the knife cut will provide a clean (pre-cut) edge, whereas a saw blade can shatter the wood fibres and give a fuzzy edge. [While on the subject of clean cut saw edges, if you want a clean cut on the bottom surface when using a circular saw, set the saw depth to protude less than one tooth depth (unless using a very fine tooth saw). That way the teeth slice neatly along the cut line instead if smashing upward through it breaking the edge as it does so.]

Also, the pliers I was referring to in the article as Life Savers are Snap-lock pliers. They can do so much more than ordinary pliers.

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Sat, 30 Jan 2021 00:33:09 GMT

I'll be looking to following along with your build and seeing your results .

Please let us know if you need further assistance or had questions. We're here to help.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

Nessa — Sat, 30 Jan 2021 00:27:55 GMT

Thank you for clarifying the screw type for me.

I was thinking the same as you regarding the stand. The pallet support posts could be used.

Hopefully it will still look as good as yours.

Thanks

Nessa

Re: Top 10 most popular fence projects

MitchellMc — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 06:14:01 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for sharing details of your project.

We look forward to hearing more about your fence project and offering assistance if you have any questions. Please let us know if there is something you need assistance with and I'm sure our helpful members will have plenty of fantastic advice.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 06:10:39 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's terrific that you've joined us, and many thanks for your question.

Buildex 10-8 x 65mm Climacoat® 3 Countersunk Rib Head Treated Pine Screws - 50 Pack were the screws used in the project.

An issue with raising this style garden bed is that there's no bottom to it. You could add the pallet boards to the bottom, but that will be some weight they're supporting. If you were to build legs, I would suggest constructing them from solid timber, and perhaps you could use the runners from a spare pallet. Wet soil is quite heavy and the unit would need to be well supported.

There are quite a few options for raised garden beds that you might like to look through.

Mitchell

Re: Top 10 most popular fence projects

CherylBre — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 06:05:51 GMT

Hi all I want to build a front fence using bricks and slats. Plan to do all labor myself. Have seen slats at Bunnings that can be screwed in after brick is constructed. Width is 15.24m height 1.5m and hope to find a remote style double gate 🙂

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

Nessa — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 05:44:09 GMT

Hi Mitchell and all,

Excuse my ignorance, I am an absolute beginner.

When searching for the treated pine screws there were 10-8 × 65mm in results. Are these the same as what you used for the garden bed?

Also, I would like to make the garden bed on a basic stand . Bad back. How would I work out if the wood stand would be strong enough to support a filled garden bed?

There was a lot of would wood in the question, feels there should be a woodchuck thrown in.

Any advice from experienced folk on my questions would be appreciated.

Essential hand tools for D.I.Y. beginners

Peggers — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 04:05:32 GMT

Want to get started with D.I.Y. projects but don’t know where to start? Here’s a helpful list of every hand tool you should need.

We explain what you need, why you need it, and provide tips from some of Bunnings Workshop’s most trusted community members.

This helpful advice from is also worth keeping in mind: “My advice for all beginners is to do your research before purchasing anything. Everyone’s D.I.Y. journey is different, so it’s important you purchase the tools best for you.”

If you need any advice, don’t hesitate to ask. We’re here to help.

Hammer

What: A wooden or plastic handle with a weighted metal head that is rounded at one end, with a fork-like claw at the other.

Why: Used for driving nails into wood or removing nails with the claw end. Aside from your D.I.Y. projects, most flatpack furniture will almost always have a laminate panel that needs tacking onto the back with small nails.

They say: “The humble hammer is one of the most versatile tools and a must for all newbies. It builds, it breaks, it nails, and de-nails. It aligns, it forces. It makes dents or removes them. The hammer is so versatile that we have a saying in New Zealand: ‘If it can't be fixed with Number 8 wire and a hammer, it can't be fixed at all’.

Phillips screwdriver

What: This the screwdriver with the pointed cross shape at the end.

Why: Most people use Phillips screws because you can get a tighter fit than with flathead screws. Almost all projects require screws, and most screws are Phillips, so this is an absolutely essential piece of kit. It’s worth getting a selection of different sizes.

They say: “A Philips screwdriver is probably the most used tool in my possession - caravans have screws everywhere!”

Flathead screwdriver

What: The screwdriver with the straight flat tip.

Why: Older pieces of furniture tend to have flathead screws, which were the norm in the past, and so you’ll need this alongside your Phillips. It is also used as paint tin opener!

They say: “The Kincrome Ratchet Screwdriver is my choice, it comes with multiple bits that store in the handle and it has a reasonable grip. Much less brutal than an impact driver when the material may be a little fragile and some feel is needed to prevent stripping the screws.”

Tape Measure

What: A flexible and retractable steel ruler for measuring lengths.

Why: Whether wood, metal, carpet or glass, you need to have measurements for any project. Things need to line up and fit together.

They say: “A good retractable tape measure with a long ‘Standout’ (ability to extend without bending), is essential… if the specs don’t mention the standout you will be frustrated when you need to measure anything away from you.”

Utility knife

What: Also known as a Stanley knife or craft knife, this is a sharp cutting tool comprising a handle with a small retractable razor blade.

Why: Used for cutting materials such as vinyl flooring, carpet or plastic sheeting, you can get a deep, straight, thin and accurate cut.

They say: “Handy for getting into packaging and trimming up your masking for painting while the blade will retract to go safely into your toolbox.”

Handsaw

What: Also known as a panel saw, this is a solid flat cutting tool with a serrated edge.

Why: This is for cutting (sawing) through wood and timber. At some stage you could also add a jigsaw for smaller, more intricate cuts.

They say: “A handsaw gives you more options for projects - you don’t need to buy wood in an exact size if you can cut it yourself.”

Adjustable wrench

What: Also known as an adjustable spanner, this is a wrench that can change the size of its opening.

Why: Almost always used to tighten or loosen nuts and bolts.

They say: “Buy good quality and a variety of sizes. Don't use them as hammers!”

Pliers

What: They look like chunky scissors, but pliers have opposing jaws to grip, rather than cut.

Why: Used mostly for gripping, such as when tightening bolts, but also to remove items such as nails or screws from wood by gripping, twisting and pulling.

They say: “Pliers are ‘life-savers’ that can rescue many situations, such as removing a chewed out screw head or nail with no head left on. Just grab the top of the item and twist, or lever it out. Also great for holding things more powerfully than your fingers can while drilling, bending, etc.”

Spirit Level

What: Using an air bubble in liquid as the indicator, a level is used to show how parallel or perpendicular a surface is.

Why: Used on a variety of D.I.Y. projects, but especially when building decks or tables to ensure a flat, even surface.

They say: “Underated at first but critical if you aren't a fan of wonky things. This for me is a must have me has improved my accuracy game... While also ensuring all photo frames hung are level”.

Square

What: An L-shaped ruler used for drawing perpendicular lines at measured intervals.

Why: In theory you can measure both sides of a plank of wood, mark dots and then join them with a ruler, but there always seems to be some inexactness to that. A square will give you perfect lines at right angles every time.

They say: “Highly recommended, great for marking your cut lines so that everything will line up later on”

Paint brushes

What: A tool with a handle and bristles used to apply paint.

Why: Either for paint, stain or varnish, you’ll need a brush to apply the finishing touches to a project. Wide brushes for big surfaces, narrow brushes for deft touches. And a dry brush to flick away dust before you start painting or varnishing.

They say: “Some may think all paint brushes are the same but over the years I’ve learnt that they defiantly are not and you really do get what you pay for. The better quality the brush the better the finish will be. Also when choosing a brush, find one that is specifically designed for the purpose you are want to use it for. For example, what type of paint you are using, or if you are using it to cut in corners. Find a brush that suits that purpose.”

Clamps

What: Call it a C-clamp or a G-clamp, this is an adjustable grip for holding things steady.

Why: Ideal for holding things together while the glue sets between them, or sometimes just an extra pair of hands for holding something in place while you work on it.

They say: “Never has a tool been more useful when making boxes or picture frames. This tool is indispensable when you are by yourself and need to join two pieces of timber to create the first join of one side of a box or cabinet.”

Putty knife

What: Also referred to as a paint scraper, this is a thin, flat, metal edge with a wooden handle.

Why: You need a putty knife for scraping wallpaper from walls, paint from wood, plaster from concrete, or any surface that needs scraping clean as part of preparation. It can also be used for applying filler or plaster.

They say: “While the 5-in-1 or 7-in-1 scrapers are the flavour of the month if you are trying to fix an old-style window and you don't have a glazier’s finger skills, a putty knife is great for removing old lose putty and with some practice replacing it, also good to use for filling wood.”

File

What: Long steel tool with a roughened surface used for abrasion.

Why: Some materials are too tough to be smoothed with sandpaper and need something stronger to break down the edges. And sometimes when something doesn’t quite fit perfectly, a file can reduce the size minutely - a cut with a saw might be too big.

They say: “Get all the cross-sectional shapes available and buy good quality.”

Ruler and pencil

What: Just like in your school pencil case - a 12-inch steel rule and a lead pencil.

Why: Every project needs marking and measuring - and a pencil and steel ruler are your best friends.

They say: “Pencil marks can easily be sanded or wiped off. Pen can be permanent.”

Sponsored Post

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

Pixie — Sun, 24 Jan 2021 22:12:47 GMT

Hi Mitchell

The only option to replace flyscreens is with frame still fixed in place. Those rivets, some are up top. Not accessible unless I want to pull roller shutters down. Thank you for your support.

Re: How to build a pallet bar

MitchellMc — Sun, 24 Jan 2021 05:03:48 GMT

Great project and instructions ! Now to convince my wife that we have a need for a bar.

Mitchell

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

MitchellMc — Sat, 23 Jan 2021 22:41:49 GMT

Hi ,

I'm sorry to hear you are having issues. Perhaps you might like to show the rivets' locations, and we might advise how to access them. If the roller shutter completely covers them, then there are not too many options. Where is the spline which retains the fly screen located and can you access it with the screen fixed in place?

Mitchell

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

Pixie — Tue, 26 Jan 2021 23:19:47 GMT

Hi guys,

I think these screens are going to drive me crazy. We have roller shutters, the top of roller shutter blocks access to screen. It shouldn't be a problem but the security screens are riveted on through window frame. At this rate the only way to replace them will be whilst they are still on the window frame.

you can see in pic the panel of roller shutter

Re: Top 10 most popular woodworking projects

MitchellMc — Wed, 27 Jan 2021 11:04:28 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for joining the discussion.

We look forward to hearing about your projects around the house and garden, and we'd encourage you to let us know if you need any assistance with them or if you'd like to share. I'm sure you'll find heaps of inspiration within the community as our amazing members contribute their projects here all the time.

Mitchell

Re: Top 10 most popular woodworking projects

vaxtang — Sat, 23 Jan 2021 02:30:42 GMT

How to build a pallet bar

Peggers — Thu, 21 Jan 2021 03:47:56 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

There’s something warm and inviting about a bar, drawing people around and sparking great conversations. How good would it be to have your own bar for entertaining friends and family?

This pallet bar is cheap and easy to make. It only requires two pallets and virtually no dismantling required.

Inspiration for this project came from the Service bar made by the pallet maestro @Yorky88. Some of Marty’s other bar creations have also influenced the design, including this very popular creation, this bar with built-in coolers, and this rustic version.

Sponsored Post

Steps

Step 1

Choosing pallets isn’t rocket science, but for this project it would help if you had two pallets the same size, shape and type of wood. Newer, lighter-coloured and lighter-weight wood pallets tend to be easier to work with. The older the pallets, the more twisted and gnarled the nails might be, making them harder to dismantle.

There are a few ways to dismantle pallets, which has been a popular topic of Bunnings Workshop discussion in the past. @MitchellMc gives some great advice on how to take apart pallets in this post, while @Brad shares a great video in this post. Fortunately, this project does not require a lot of dismantling. You just need to remove the boards from the back of one of the pallets – with most pallets that’s only four boards in total.

Step 2

To prepare the wood, take a file and scrape off the splinters that tend to hang along the edges of the pallet boards. It’s a quick job that can be done by just scraping your file along the edge of each board.

Then sand the top of each cross board using an electric sander with a medium grain paper such as 80 grit. With pallet furniture, especially the outdoor variety, you don’t necessarily need a super-smooth finish. If you do one side of the pallet at a time you can get a sense of how the wood is changing. You can sand by hand, but it is much quicker and easier with an electric sander.

Step 3

The front of the bar is an untouched pallet. There’s no need to do anything other than sand the wood and then stand it on its side.

Step 4

There is a really quick and simple way to make the sides of the bar without dismantling the pallet. Take the pallet that you have removed the back boards from. Mark a pencil line along the entire length of the central pallet runner. Then take a jigsaw and cut through these lines. Repeat on the other side of the central runner and you will be left with two sides for your bar.

Step 5

Attaching the sides should be fairly intuitive. Line them up with the front part of the bar and clamp one of the side panel boards to the side runner of the front pallet. Do the same to both sides and your bar should be taking shape.

Now drill two holes diagonally through the top side board and the supporting runner of the front pallet. Screw together with two timber screws. Then repeat this all the way down the side.

Step 6

There are a few different ways to complete the top of the bar. If your boards from the back of the side pallet are intact, then you can use them - although it’s nice if you can find wood that contrasts with the rest of the bar. Some dressed pine or rough timber is good if you have some around. I had the off-cut of a timber panel from another project that offered a good contrast. Your bar top needs to be 1.2m x 25cm.

You could get an invisible join by using wooden dowels and drilling holes halfway through the underside of the bar top. But because this is for out-side and I’m happy for it to look rustic, I just attached the bar top with timber screws. As the wood panel is soft, the screws are easily sunken.

Step 7

You can add a stain or varnish to your bar, or paint it according to your taste. For my bar I’ve used a gloss varnish on the bar top. A small 250ml pot will be more than enough. With only one coat, you can already see the contrast between varnished finished wood on top and lightly sanded bare wood on the structure. There are no rules, but if you’re going to leave the bar outside at all times in all conditions, then varnishing the whole unit would be recommended.

Step 8

It’s always good to customise a bar. You might like to add pictures or paint a slogan or name. I had an old drinks crate in the workshop and also added some retro ornaments.

One other addition to consider is an internal shelf below the bar top to store things on. This can easily be done by running wood from one side panel strut to its corresponding strut on the other side.

Hey presto - the bar is open!

Materials

2 Pallets
A piece of timber (1.2m x 25cm)
30-40 65mm timber screws
250ml of varnish

Tools

Hammer or wrecking bar
File
Electric sander
Electric jigsaw
2 clamps
Electric drill
Phillips screwdriver
Paint brush
Ruler
Pencil

Images

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

MitchellMc — Sun, 10 Jan 2021 01:34:52 GMT

Hi ,

It's great to hear you still have plans to complete your project. I'll be looking forward to those pictures.

Mitchell

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

MitchellMc — Sun, 10 Jan 2021 01:33:34 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fabulous to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

As far as I am aware, a plunger pin is normally not installed through the spline and shouldn't obstruct you from replacing the fly screen on a frame which has them installed. Is there a reason that you would like to remove them? The only way I know of removing them from the frame itself is to tap them out with a hammer in the reverse fashion in which they were installed. I believe this could potentially damage your frame.

If you could provide some more detail on why you wish to remove them and perhaps an image of them, we can assist further.

Mitchell

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

Pixie — Tue, 26 Jan 2021 23:20:21 GMT

Hi, sorry I haven’t been on for quite sometime. But I’m back. Still haven’t replaced fly screens on windows as yet. I’ll do pictures tomorrow. Total inside of 1 frame measurement is 1200mm x 1200mm. Screens look like they been riveted in.
We will drill rivets out unless someone can recommend another way to remove screen.
Sliding door security screens I know how to remove.

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

debmorant — Fri, 08 Jan 2021 20:59:14 GMT

My plunger pins go through the frame and spline. How do I get them out?

Re: Top 10 most popular deck projects

MitchellMc — Fri, 08 Jan 2021 04:23:20 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

There are plenty of online tools to design your own deck. I've used your provided sizes to create a basic layout. This uses a traditional system of a 90 x 45mm joist over a 140 x 45mm bearer. You should find this guide useful if you need to build the deck in a limited height: How to build a low-level deck by .

I trust this will give you a starting point. You might like to create your own discussion so we can talk more about your project and questions.

Mitchell

Re: Top 10 most popular deck projects

Bibes09 — Thu, 07 Jan 2021 22:08:05 GMT

Hi,

I'm building a deck 8m x 3.5m and I'm unsure what size timber to use for the bearers and joists and also where to position my posts.

I have seen some previous posts on this topic where free sketch ups are done?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Mon, 21 Dec 2020 23:13:01 GMT

It might be an idea to plant them more towards the front of the pot to keep them as far away from the wall as possible. You'd likely do this anyway for ease of viewing. Some succulents like Cacti, Aloes, and Agave do well in heat and would be more suited to this application.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Noyade — Mon, 21 Dec 2020 23:03:17 GMT

"Any idea what he is going to plant in there?"

The plan is succulents. Would they be OK next to on a hot brick wall (summer)?

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Fri, 18 Dec 2020 22:57:22 GMT

That looks amazing, !

I trust your son will be thrilled with the results. Any idea what he is going to plant in there?

Many thanks for sharing.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Noyade — Fri, 18 Dec 2020 22:45:30 GMT

G'day Mitchell!

Eventually got there, little fiddly - but it was a downsized version with larger pots. The brackets are 5mm steel plate bent with a heating torch and welded onto a smaller steel plate connected to the frame. Shouldn't come down when fully loaded.

It'll eventually be fitted to a brick courtyard wall.

Thanks for the mini-garden inspiration. 🙂

Re: How to fill a raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Fri, 11 Dec 2020 00:31:29 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fabulous to have you join us and many thanks for jumping into the conversation.

It would be terrific to hear more about your own raised garden bed project. We'd encourage you to let us know if you need any help along the way or if you'd like to share your results with us. I trust you'll find loads of inspiration within the community as our creative members are contributing their projects here all the time.

You might also like to check out our Top 10 most popular raised garden bed projects for some more great ideas.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a slimline spice rack

MitchellMc — Thu, 10 Dec 2020 23:09:21 GMT

There's nothing like a good beard. Unfortunately, I'm only sporting a belated moustache at the moment.

Your idea for shelving on wheels is fantastic and solves trying to plug the fridge in with the end of a broom handle. I bet it makes gaining access for cleaning a breeze too.

Many thanks for sharing and your compliments.

Mitchell

Re: How to fill a raised garden bed

Ange71 — Thu, 10 Dec 2020 08:47:17 GMT

Thank you all for the tips on filling raised garden beds, especially the tip about aggregate for drainage, economical potting mixes and compost additives.

Have taken note for the planter boxes I plan to build. 😎👍

Re: How to build a slimline spice rack

Noyade — Wed, 09 Dec 2020 00:02:18 GMT

For the space between the fridge and sliding door - I made shelving on wheels - so I can easily get to the fridge powerpoint.

Re: How to build a slimline spice rack

Noyade — Tue, 08 Dec 2020 23:58:10 GMT

Looks great Mitchell!

You seem to have aged immensely? Love ya beard!

The spice rack I made some time ago was like a football grandstand with layered seating. Clearly there are now too many spectators and not practicing COVID distancing.

A Mess

How to build a slimline spice rack

MitchellMc — Tue, 12 Jan 2021 22:56:13 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

Most people would love more kitchen storage, so ideas to maximise use of your precious space are always popular.

This slimline spice rack can fit neatly in a gap beside a fridge – often wasted space that does nothing except collect dust.

The inspiration for this popular project comes from Pull out storage to utilise space next to fridge, with credit to for the wonderful design.

Thanks also to @jessica_roesel, @keithT, @Pasan and @Prof for sharing your creations with us.

Steps

Step 1

Begin your project by cutting all the timber to length. Take four of your dressed Pine 89 x19mm and cut them in half at 90cm for the shelves. For the railings, cut the Pine dowel into 92cm lengths.

Step 2

Lay out your shelves and the two full-length sides. Position the first two shelves 23cm apart at the top, and then transition to 33cm apart for the bottom three shelves. Mark out on the side panels where the shelves top and bottom edges will go. Then mark out locations for the rail holes, 4.5cm above the top of the shelves mark and 1.5cm in from the edge of the side panels.

Step 3

Take a scrap piece of wood and create a guide by transferring the rail hole measurements onto it. Drill out these holes and then clamp the guide onto your side panel. You will drill into the side panel to a depth of 10mm. To achieve this, add 10mm to the thickness of your guide and then wrap some painter’s tape around the drill bit at that point. The tape will be an indicator that you are only drilling 10mm into the side panel, and the guide will keep your holes consistent.

Drill all the rail holes into the side panels. Drill three holes per shelf side with your 3mm drill bit. These holes will fall between the lines you marked earlier for the top and bottom of the shelf.

Step 4

Take one side panel and apply PVA glue both to the location where the shelves will fix, and to the shelf ends. Use three screws 8 x 50mm to secure one end of the shelves to the side panel. Some corner clamps can come in handy to keep the shelves perpendicular to the side panel. Insert the 8 x 50mm screws partially into the second side panel.

Step 5

Stand the unit on edge, so the shelves are vertical. Apply glue to the ends of the shelves and the dowels and to the additional side panel. Insert the dowels into the lower side panel. Take the remaining side panel and place it on top of the shelves and dowels.

Starting from one end, line up the dowels with the pre-drilled holes and tap the side panel into place with a hammer. A scrap block of timber will prevent the hammer marking the side panel as you tap it into place. Once the side panel is in place, secure all the screws into the shelves.

Step 6

Apply timber putty over all screws, and any joins that have gaps. Wait for this to dry and then sand back the excess putty. Apply a second skim coat of putty and then sand again when it is dry.

Step 7

Lay drop sheets to prevent drips and then use water-based enamel paint to coat your unit. You will need to apply a few coats to get an excellent finish. Wait for the paint to dry.

Step 8

Install your four casters onto the bottom of the unit. It would be best if you stepped the castors at the front slightly back, hiding them under it. Next, mark out the position of the handle at the height of your preference. Drill holes and install the handle with the screws provided.

Congratulations. You've now completed your hidden spice rack shelf. Enjoy filling it with an assortment of your favourite fragrant ingredients.

Materials

6 pieces of 1.8m dressed Pine 89 x19mm
12 pieces of Pine dowel 12.7mm 1.2m
42 screws 8 x 50mm
16 screws 8 x 18mm
500ml PVA glue
4 50mm castors
1 drawer handle
1 litre water-based enamel paint
Timber putty

Tools

Drill driver
12.7mm drill bit
3mm drill bit
Circular saw or mitre saw
Tape measure
Clamps
Hammer
Paint brush or spray gun
Painter's tape

Images

Top 10 Workshop projects of the year

Jason — Thu, 10 Dec 2020 03:55:08 GMT

In a year like no other, the Bunnings Workshop community has continued to provide great inspiration and advice to each other for all their projects around the house and garden.

Thank you to all of our clever and creative members for sharing their projects and experiences this year, and a special thanks for ensuring that Workshop has remained a wonderfully positive, encouraging and friendly community.

We trust you will be greatly inspired by what members have achieved in their homes this year, particularly because most are low-cost and very achievable for even those with limited D.I.Y. experience.

If you need a hand with your own home improvement project, please don’t hesitate to ask. We’re here to help.

Top Workshop projects of 2020

The most popular Workshop projects shared (by pageviews) in 2020 were:

1. $500 Bunnings laundry reno by

$500 laundry renovation

Transforming a basic laundry which had a standard trough and no storage, Jess installed a new sink, cupboards, tiles and benchtop in just a day for a wallet-friendly price. Later in the year, Jess also completed a similar $600 laundry transformation at her rental property.

2. Budget-friendly raised garden bed by

Interest in growing your own food has grown rapidly this year, with many Bunnings Workshop members installing new raised garden beds in their backyards. This fast, easy and budget-friendly bed can be built by anyone, with horticulturalist and D.I.Y. expert Adam providing a full list of materials and a comprehensive how-to video.

3. How to build a wicking bed by

Using an L-shaped raised garden bed, Bunnings Workshop member Maursie added pond lining, 90mm pipe, drainage gravel and shade cloth to construct this fantastic wicking bed for water-efficient vegetable growing.

4. Side yard landscaping project by

Side yard landscaping

Part of an impressive backyard makeover that included a new merbau side gate and planter box with seating, this wonderful project transformed a tricky narrow area along the side of the house using new paving, edging, smart planting and lighting.

5. Landscape rebuild by

This backyard transformation included a fence makeover, deck extension, retaining walls, new lawn, a row of Sasanqua Camellia and built-in bench seat. Most materials were from Bunnings and no tradies were used except for a concreter.

6. Raised garden beds for vegie garden by

Similar to the raised beds shared by fellow Workshop member a couple of years ago, these eye-catching designs effectively utilise timber and corrugated iron and make an attractive and functional feature for the front garden.

7. Garage storage makeover by

Garage storage

Garage storage goals! Many Bunnings Workshop members have gazed enviously at this impressive garage makeover which uses Pinnacle storage products, including peg boards, to mount and display various tools.

8. Small laundry reno by

With a small, awkward space, creative solutions were needed for this laundry renovation such as hanging rail and a large benchtop for folding clothes. The attractive new design passed the ultimate test – a baby in cloth nappies.

9. Backyard patio makeover by

This impressive backyard patio makeover was Chiren’s first outdoor D.I.Y. project and includes two treated pine decks, a daybed, planter box, fence painting and feature wall to create an incredibly inviting outdoor entertaining space.

10. Ute bookshelf by

Ute bookshelf

This delightful ute bookshelf was built using stained pine boards and features wonderful finishing touches such as a working light and passenger door. Jess also built a wonderful castle bookshelf for her daughter’s bedroom that has also been very popular with the Workshop community.

More project inspiration for your home

The Bunnings Workshop Project Gallery contains many more inspiring projects shared by our talented members. You can sort the projects by most liked or most viewed.

Our Top 10 Project articles are another great way to get ideas for your home. We have Top 10 lists for aall areas of the home and outdoors, including the kitchen, bathroom, laundry, deck, and garden.

You are also always welcome to hit the Start a discussion button and ask our friendly community for advice and ideas.

Top Bunnings Workshop community members of 2020

Many thanks to the community’s top contributors this year. Here are the members who receive the most likes for their Workshop posts during 2020:

Landscape rebuild

Raised garden beds

10.

Sharing ideas and experience

Backyard patio makeover

Thanks again to all those wonderful members who contributed to the growth of the Bunnings Workshop community this year.

Every day our members generously share their knowledge, experience and ideas. We're so pleased to have had so many new members join the discussions throughout the past 12 months and get help and inspiration.

If you need a hand with a project around the house or garden, please don’t hesitate to let us know. We're looking forward to helping you transform your home.

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Thu, 03 Dec 2020 22:44:41 GMT

Hi ,

I'm currently growing basil, oregano, thyme, tomatoes, carrots, lettuce, eggplant, zucchini and onions. I am happy with the amount of produce from such a small footprint.

I work on the same policy that the fewer issues you raise and the more you fix yourself, the less your rent gets increased. That's worked out for me pretty well so far over the 18 or so years of renting.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Thu, 03 Dec 2020 22:37:43 GMT

Hi ,

I've seen that design around before and absolutely love it. A bit of pre-planning about how to construct these items and how you'll fix them to structures without damaging the property is all that is needed. It's also worth considering what you can bring with you to the next property.

Please keep us updated on your build as I trust it will thrill our members to see your results.

Mitchell

How to feed your garden

Noelle — Thu, 03 Dec 2020 04:09:09 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Keeping your garden healthy and producing lots of flowers and delicious fruits, vegies and herbs sounds like a lot of work but it is really simple. All it takes is regular applications of plant food and (of course) plenty of water.

Lawns will also look better and be able to withstand challenging weather as well as foot traffic when fed at least once every season.

Follow our steps for how to feed your garden and it will be thriving in no time.

Sponsored Post

Steps

Step 1

There are many different types of fertiliser. What you use will depend on largely personal choice (organic, natural or inorganic) and the results you want.

Liquids and water-soluble crystals or powders are readily absorbed directly through leaves as well as roots via the soil. Their nutrients are immediately available and will give plants an instant boost when applied.

Granular or pelletised fertilisers are usually slow or controlled release formulations that gently and slowly release nutrients over an extended period, from a few weeks to up to 12 months.

A combination of both instant and long-term fertilisers is often the best solution for a great garden.

Step 2

Always ensure you use “garden” fertilisers on garden beds and “lawn” fertilisers on lawns. Don’t be tempted to use a one-size-fits-all approach – there are differences in formulation and nutrient values (NPK) and the way each type works. Lawn fertilisers are high in nitrogen to encourage lush leafy growth – perfect for grasses but not for flowering or fruiting plants!

“All Purpose” or “Balanced” fertilisers may be used throughout the garden but occasionally a specialised plant food may be preferred for specific types of plants, For example, camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias and other exotic flowering shrubs may do better when a fertiliser formulated specially for these plants is used. It may be labelled as being ideal for acid-lovers, which all these shrubs are.

Fruit trees, especially citrus, may have better crops and greener leaves when a fertiliser with boosted iron and magnesium is used, while some vegies will have improved disease resistance when fed with fertilisers containing a high level of calcium.

Step 3

Check the weather before applying any food. Don’t fertilise the garden or the lawn when the daytime temperature is expected to exceed 30 degrees. Even on cool days, avoid feeding in the middle of the day when the sun is at its most intense. Either do it early in the day or wait for late afternoon.

Step 4

Having selected the type and formulation of fertiliser you wish to use in your garden or on your lawn, read the instructions on both front and back labels thoroughly before using. The risk of burning your plants or lawn is minimal when fertilisers are used according to the directions.

Damage generally occurs as a result of not reading labels. If you don’t understand the information or how to use the fertiliser, contact the manufacturer for assistance.

Step 5

If using liquid concentrates or water-soluble fertilisers that require dilution with water, measure out the exact amount required as per the label. Some bottle caps are marked as being 20ml or 50ml measures but if they are not, use a dedicated plastic medicine glass to measure liquids. Instructions usually advise adding a specified amount to a standard (9L) watering can. Fill with water, mix thoroughly and apply over the plants and soil as instructed.

If using ready-to-use liquids (hose-end bottles) click the bottle firmly on to the hose, turn the mains pressure tap on fully and then activate the sprayer as instructed on the label. The bottle should empty as the product is applied – if it doesn’t, there is a delivery problem. Check your hose fittings, the water pressure and whether you have switched the bottle on correctly.

Liquid and water-soluble fertilisers may be used every few weeks, if required.

Step 6

If using granular or pelletised slow/controlled release fertilisers, they are typically applied at rates specified in tablespoons per centimetres of height of plants. For example: 2tbl per 30cm of height. This means that 2 tablespoons of the fertiliser for every 30cm of a plant’s height should be spread over the roots on the dripline, which is an imaginary circle on the soil directly under the outer limit of the leaves or branches. This is where the feeding roots are located.

This is fine for individual shrubs but where plants are in rows, for instance in the vegie patch, the fertiliser should be applied in a band down either side of the row.

Gently fork the fertiliser into the soil so it is lightly covered – don’t disturb the soil deeply because you risk damaging the roots. Water only if the soil is dry – moisture isn’t necessary to activate the release of nutrients.

When feeding large garden beds with an abundance of shrubs or other plants, and application around each on isn’t possible, the fertiliser may be broadcast over the entire bed. Wash granules off plants and on to the soil with the hose.

Step 7

If feeding the lawn, the same principles apply. Again, please remember to read the instructions before starting.

Hose-on fertilisers are simple and quick to apply while more care is needed with slow release lawn foods.

Application rates are critical when using granular fertilisers. If you are too heavy-handed, there is a high risk of burning the grass due to too much nitrogen. If the label recommends using a fertiliser spreader, do so! Make sure it is set correctly and only add as much fertiliser to the hopper as you need to cover your exact lawn area in square metres – borrow the kitchen scales to weigh it out.

The time and effort taken to feed the garden and lawn regularly is well rewarded with healthy, productive plants.

Materials

Liquid or granular fertilisers of choice for garden and/or lawn

Tools

Gardening gloves
Measuring spoon (1 tablespoon recommended)
Plastic measure for liquids in millilitres
Watering can
Hose with standard fitting and trigger nozzle
Hand fork or hoe
Face mask (optional)

Images

Re: Thanks for five wonderful years

Jason — Wed, 02 Dec 2020 20:53:31 GMT

Many thanks for your lovely comments , , and . You are a big part of what makes this community special. Thanks again for your contribution.

Jason

Re: Thanks for five wonderful years

prettyliving — Wed, 02 Dec 2020 13:53:02 GMT

Congrats on 5 years! Defiantly a great community, actually the best 👌🏻

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Prawns — Wed, 02 Dec 2020 06:32:02 GMT

Looks great! What are you growing in there Mitchell?

PS My last rental we kept the lawns beaut and did random repairs and improvements as well - we were there nearly a decade (before buying) and not once was our rent cost increased - and after a while the landlord actually told us to tell the real estate to bugger off when they turned up for quarterly inspections if we wanted to lol - as he knew we were taking care of his house as if it was our own.

I think the things we fixed and improved there - were well and truly paid for by the complete lack of rent increases over the years with the owner so happy, and when we actually bought a house - because we had done such a good job as renters - he allowed us to break 4 months of contract that we had left as renters without any penalty (really we should of paid that 4 months of rent out to finish the contract)

Can definatly pay off I reckon and adding your own touches also helps make a house a home

Re: Thanks for five wonderful years

mich1972 — Wed, 02 Dec 2020 06:31:38 GMT

Thanks heaps Jason, Mitch and everyone for sharing !!!!!! Absolutely love the Workshop Community 😊😊

Re: Thanks for five wonderful years

Prawns — Wed, 02 Dec 2020 06:04:51 GMT

Congrats on the milestone!
I get plenty of inspiration here (and it also saves me from making mistakes trying things Ive never done before - by checking in here first hahhaha, usually somebody has already done it )
Oh yeah and thanks for the gift for contributing to this community! Im thinking I can build it and put it next to my mancave BBQ, that way I can have Bunnings snags whenever I want hahhahahha!

Best regards and congrats to the whole team, and thanks for all the advice!

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Noyade — Wed, 02 Dec 2020 07:29:24 GMT

"I am a firm believer that just because someone rents it doesn't mean that they can't enjoy the property to its fullest."

Totally agree Mitchell. It looks really good. 👍

My middle son moved out a few months ago into a small flat that has a brick wall courtyard.

I recently saw this flower pot arrangement in a cafe and I'm gonna make it with large U shaped steel brackets so it hangs on his courtyard wall. No drilling required so he'll be able to lift it off the wall when/if he moves elsewhere. It's basically two layers of concrete mesh welded at a precise distance apart to support flower pots. I'll post photos when completed.

Re: Thanks for five wonderful years

Prof — Tue, 01 Dec 2020 22:58:10 GMT

All I can say is...You guys and this forum ROCKS !!!

Actually I should say more...

I have been a member and or a Moderator of numerous forums over many decades..and this forum stands out above

all others for friendly helpful advice, but also with a forum operator who constantly participates in every aspect of the forums operations..unlike other forums where you rarely hear from the forum operator.. and he also keeps the interest flowing with his own ideas of projects..

Well done Jason and congratulations on 5 years of service..

Thanks for five wonderful years

Jason — Tue, 01 Dec 2020 22:29:24 GMT

Happy anniversary everyone!

Five years ago today we invited a small number of wonderful people to join discussion about D.I.Y. and gardening at a new site.

The original Workshop site designOur hand-picked community founders began eagerly sharing their projects, experiences and advice with each other, and it was clear that we had something special. By the following September, we removed the curtain surrounding the site and invited everyone to join the fun.

In the past five years, members have shared thousands of inspiring projects with the Workshop community and provided invaluable advice to people needing a helping hand.

We're really proud that this is a friendly and encouraging place where everyone is welcome to participate. It doesn't matter what your background is, or whether you have little or no experience on the tools. Everyone is encouraged to have a go and see what they can achieve in their home and garden. This is a place of respect and belonging.

What members say when they are recommending WorkshopJudging by the wonderful feedback from so many of you who kindly completed our recent member survey, you agree this is a special place. We're so pleased that many of you have been telling your friends and family about the benefits of joining the community, describing it in glowing terms such as "helpful", "friendly" and "inspiring".

The exciting part is that we have only just begun. We have bold plans for making the site easier to use and navigate, and for significantly growing the community so that many more people can join in the discussions and share their projects.

We're really excited about the future of the Bunnings Workshop community and thank you so much for your contribution to making this a special place for all. Please reach out if you ever need a hand.

Thanks again,

Jason and all the Bunnings Workshop team

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Old-gal24 — Mon, 30 Nov 2020 12:04:40 GMT

Wish I'd seen something like this last year. I could have made one or two for my side fence area. Just awesome, and compact, looks like it's nice and strong to support the soil in the upper pots. Hard when you have lots of ideas and such limited space to do things in.

Thank you for sharing Mitchell

This Old~gal

Re: How to build a pallet cubby

Preeg — Fri, 27 Nov 2020 00:18:02 GMT

Thank you so much for sharing this project its wonderful thnaks alot

Re: How to build a vertical garden

SkyReaper — Sat, 21 Nov 2020 06:08:25 GMT

Yes me also!

I have always liked making the property really shine.

Its great for landlords to see that you are maintaining and caring for their property.

And really who wants to live somewhere that you can't enjoy and make some what your own 😁😃

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Sat, 21 Nov 2020 02:15:59 GMT

I'm in a rental property too and I have to say the property manager was very impressed with my handy work last inspection. I am a firm believer that just because someone rents it doesn't mean that they can't enjoy the property to its fullest.

Mitchell

Re: Bunnings Workshop community update

Jason — Wed, 18 Nov 2020 03:17:38 GMT

Hi everyone,

Just a heads-up that we have just sent many Bunnings Workshop members an invitation to complete a survey. We'd really appreciate if you could spare a couple of minutes to complete it and provide your feedback so we can continue to improve the site.

Feel free to contact me anytime you have feedback about how we can improve Workshop for you.

Thanks,

Jason

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Jason — Wed, 18 Nov 2020 00:14:16 GMT

Fantastic, glad to see you have been inspired .

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We're so pleased to have you join us and look forward to reading about all your projects and plans for around the house and garden, especially your new vertical garden.

We're sure you will get plenty of helpful information, advice and inspiration from our amazing community members. Please post anytime you need a hand or have something to share.

Jason

Re: How to build a vertical garden

SkyReaper — Tue, 17 Nov 2020 23:53:53 GMT

This is a great idea!!

Living in a rental property, I am limited to how big a far I let my creativity go but this would be a really great option for me.

Thank you so much for sharing!! And who knows hopefully soon you will see pics of my version 😁😀

How to build a toilet roll holder shelf

MitchellMc — Mon, 16 Nov 2020 02:21:18 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Organise and decorate your bathroom or powder room with this streamlined shelf that not only looks attractive but also makes fantastic use of space.

Inspiration for this creation comes from the extremely popular Toilet roll holder shelf by Bunnings Workshop member . Thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us Rodney.

Steps

Step 1

Start by cutting your 2.4m length of 110mm timber into four pieces at 600mm long using your handsaw or mitre saw. Each of these cuts will be at a 45-degree angle.

Step 2

Lay your pieces out to check that the 45-degree cuts match up to form 90-degree corners. It is likely that there will be some gaps. You can dry clamp the pieces to get an idea of how close your cuts have been. Some slight sanding might be necessary to ensure minimal gaps.

Step 3

Painter’s tape can be used to help form the corners. Lay a piece of tape down and place two of your timber pieces onto it so the edges line up correctly. Apply PVA glue to the inside of the corner. Bring the timbers together to complete the corner. Repeat this on the other three corners.

Step 4

Once all the corners have been brought together, use a pull strap to hold everything securely. After the strap has been tightened, insert timber blocks under it to increase the tension. Additional clamps can also be used to ensure the corners are at a right angle.

Step 5

Pre-drill three holes per corner with a 3mm drill bit. Counter sink the holes deep enough that the head of the screw will be below the surface of the timber. Drive in the screws.

Step 6

Measure across a diagonal between two corners. Take this measurement and transfer it onto the 1.2m length of 90mm timber. Create a 90 degree on both ends of the timber by intersecting two 45-degree cuts. Apply glue to the inside of the corners you measured between and insert the timber.

Step 7

Remove the tape and clamps and then apply putty over all the screws and any gaps from your 45-degree cuts. Wait for this to dry and then sand back. Apply a second skim coat and then repeat the sanding process.

Step 8

Begin brushing you stain onto the timber. Use a rag or paper towel to wipe off excess.

Step 9

Predrill holes with a 3mm drill bit to suit your mounting hangers. Install the hangers with timber screws.

Congratulations. You have now completed your toilet roll holder shelf. Expect plenty of admirers of your handiwork.

Materials

One piece of 2.4m Tasmanian Oak measuring 110 x 19mm
One piece of 1.2m Tasmanian Oak measuring 90 x 12mm
12 timber screws 10 x 38mm
100ml PVA glue
250ml teak brown stain
One set mitre/corner clamps
Two hanging plates
One 4m pull tie down strap
Paint brush
One roll painter’s tape
Timber putty
Sandpaper

Tools

Handsaw or mitre saw
Mitre box
Drill driver
3mm drill bit
Countersink bit
Tape measure

Images

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

mich1972 — Wed, 11 Nov 2020 22:35:22 GMT

Love this 🌿💚

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

Adam_W — Mon, 09 Nov 2020 04:29:31 GMT

Hi you have hit upon a rather interesting conundrum...
You can create something such as a low, raised garden bed without concrete, in fact I do so here... as in this case the 100mm construction screws combined with the corner braces will provide support. Once filled with soil it has enough weight to stay put however...
For anything taller than 200 or maybe 300mm I would recommend concreting in place and definitely so if the site is not level.
Now... on saying that... if you can come up with a self-supporting structure that has adequate weight that it will not shift when, say, bumped with a mower, then yes, you can likley do it without needing the concrete.
Another option is that you'll find galvanised reo rods which can be used like stakes. You drill a suitable sized hole (12 to 13mm in this case) from top to bottom of your sleeper and then just hammer the stake through into the soil. If you wanted to go 2 sleepers high you can just fix the bottom 'course' in place and then attach the next level to the fixed off one if that makes sense.

Re: Top 10 most popular outdoor furniture projects

Jason — Wed, 04 Nov 2020 00:23:19 GMT

Congratulations to all Bunnings Workshop members who have their clever and creative handiwork featured in this popular article. It has been great to update it with the latest pageview data.

Need a hand with your own D.I.Y. furniture project? Please feel free to hit the Start a discussion button and join in the conversation. We are here to help you with all your home improvement projects around the house and garden.

Jason

Re: Top 10 most popular indoor furniture projects

Jason — Tue, 03 Nov 2020 22:40:01 GMT

We have just updated this popular article based on the latest pageview data. Congratulations to all those Bunnings Workshop members who have furniture projects featured.

If you need a hand with your D.I.Y. furniture project, please don't hesitate to start a discussion. We're here to help.

Jason

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Mon, 02 Nov 2020 02:14:34 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

Let me mention to get his opinion on whether the posts need to be concreted into the ground.

From my perspective, I wouldn't have thought you need to concrete a low-level structure like this into the ground. The concrete does provide a whole heap of rigidity to the structure though. Provided you securely fixed all timber together you should be fine.

We look forward to hearing more about your projects around the house and garden and we'd encourage you to let us know if you ever need assistance or would like to share them. I trust you'll find loads of information within the community as our wonderful members are contributing their own projects here every day.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

Pirihonga — Mon, 02 Nov 2020 02:03:10 GMT

Hi,

Can this be done without the concrete for the posts? I'm looking to create something similar in one corner of my garden for a raised firepit area, but it's on an easement, so no concrete to be put down.

Cheers

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Sun, 01 Nov 2020 22:00:07 GMT

Hi ,

It's really functional too. I have limited space in my backyard to have planters on the ground so this vertical one has given me a lot more room to grow in.

I can't wait to see your vertical pallet garden completed. Please post some images when it is done as our members always love a good pallet project.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Tinyfeather60 — Sun, 01 Nov 2020 06:31:15 GMT

That’s really cute love that

Re: Top 10 most popular pallet projects

Jason — Fri, 30 Oct 2020 02:45:01 GMT

This article is one of the most popular on the Bunnings Workshop site, and it's great to be able to update it to reflect our most current pageview data.

Congratulations to all those members who have pallet projects featured.

Jason

Re: Top 10 most popular raised garden beds

Jason — Tue, 27 Oct 2020 04:03:25 GMT

It's been wonderful to update this most popular Top 10 list. Congratulations to all those Bunnings Workshop community members that have their projects featured. You should be very proud as the standard of raised garden beds shared by the community is very high.

If you need help with your garden project, please don't hesitate to hit the Start a discussion button and let us know how we can assist.

Jason

Re: Top 10 most popular woodworking projects

Jason — Mon, 26 Oct 2020 23:25:49 GMT

Congratulations to all Bunnings Workshop community members who have their projects featured in this popular article. It was great to update it and include plenty of new creations as well as older favourites.

If you need a hand with a woodworking project, please don't hesitate to hit the Start a discussion button and let us know how we can help. Beginners are always welcome and encouraged to start their first project and learn new skills.

Jason

Re: Top 10 most popular storage projects

Jason — Mon, 26 Oct 2020 02:58:43 GMT

Great to update this popular article with plenty of fantastic storage inspiration.

Please let us know if you need a hand with a new storage project. We're here to help.

Jason

How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Sun, 25 Oct 2020 23:28:25 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

A vertical garden can provide greenery and colour to enliven a drab location and provide plenty of growing space in even very small areas.

Customisable to suit your own garden, this vertical garden can be combined with our raised garden bed made from recycled pallets.

Inspiration for this creation comes from the extremely popular Vertical garden with built-in watering system by experienced Bunnings Workshop member . Thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us.

Steps

Step 1

Start by cutting three lengths of the 90 x 45mm timber at the height you wish you top box to be. Ours were cut 2 meters long to locate the top box just above head height. These will become the vertical posts and they are fixed to the base with three coach screws for each post.

Pre-drill 6mm holes in the posts allowing the coach screws to be positioned at the top, middle and bottom of the garden bed. Ours are at 10cm, 25cm and 40cm above the ground.

Fix the posts to the base with one at each end and one in the middle at 116cm. Make sure they are evenly spaced and that the screws are fixed through the post and into the frame of the garden planter.

Step 2

Clamp a temporary horizontal brace across the three upright posts. Measure the distance between the posts at the top, middle and base. Our garden bed is 233cm long so the distance between the posts is 103cm as the posts are 9cm wide. Adjust the clamps to ensure the posts a perpendicular to each other and are evenly spaced.

Step 3

Take a 90 x 45 piece of timber and cut it to a length that spans across the top of your three posts. Our garden bed is 233cm long. Pre-drill three 3mm holes at either end of this top piece and in the middle (at 116cm for ours). This will be your top horizontal member. Drive treated pine screws through the timber into the top of the three vertical posts.

Step 4

Take the measurement between your posts. We cut three pieces of the 150 x 25mm timber at 103cm. This will be the front, back and base of the planter box. Measure the internal height for end pieces. Cut two 125mm pieces from your 150 x 25mm stock. Place the end pieces in position and clamp on both sides to secure.

Step 5

Pre-drill 3mm holes around the perimeter of the front and back timber boards into the base and sides. You’ll need five holes into the base and three holes into each the sides. Countersink those holes. Drive treated pine screws to secure the boards in place. This process will be repeated on the back and front. In this vertical planter we are using six boxes and this process will be repeated for all six of them.

Step 6

Measure the width of the boxes and mark a centre line. The boxes will be 200mm wide so add a mark at 100mm. On this centre line we will take a scrap piece of 90 x 45mm timber and place it diagonally. Mark both sides of the timber. Step the timber back lining it up with one of the diagonal lines. Again, mark both sides of the timber. This gives us a reference to the angle at which the planter box will sit. Pre-drill three 3mm holes within the marked area.

Step 7

Install box into position between the vertical posts. Check the angle by matching up the marked lines on the side of the box with the vertical posts. Our boxes are space 10cm apart as this gives the plants enough room to grow without hitting the box above. Drive three treated pine screws from inside the box into each post. A second set of hands can be helpful here.

Step 8

Drill several evenly spaced 8mm drainage holes in the bottom of each box. Cut pieces of the builder film larger than what is needed to line the interior of the boxes. Use a staple gun the fix the plastic in place. Trim the plastic back so it is neat and flush with the timber. Cut some holes in the builder film allowing water to drain through it.

Step 9

Cut two lengths of 90 x 45mm timber to act as a central and lower support cross-members. Our cross-members are 233cm long. These timbers should be the same length as your top horizontal piece. Fix them to the vertical posts with treated pine screws. One will be at the mid-position which worked out to be 135cm high and the other just above the base which was 50cm high.

Step 10

Cut your lattice panels height to fit between the mid and lower brace and then cut the panels width to fit between the two upright posts. In our case this was 90cm high and 103cm wide. Fix the lattice to the middle and lower cross-member with treated pine screws. Cut to length your trim timber forming a basic frame around the lattice. These were two pieces 103cm long for the top and bottom and another two at 82cm long for the sides. Fix the frame in position with treated pine screws.

Congratulations. You have now completed your vertical garden planter project.

Materials

200 treated pine screws sized 8-10 x 75mm
Five pieces of 4.8m treated pine measuring 150 x 25mm
Six pieces of 2.4m treated pine measuring 90 x 45mm
Two pieces of 2.4 DAR treated pine measuring 40 x 18mm
Nine galvanised coach screws M8 x 100mm
One roll of builder’s plastic 2 x 10m
One piece of lattice measuring 1800 x 900mm

Tools

Drill driver
6mm drill bit
3mm drill bit
Countersink bit
8mm spanner or adjustable spanner
Circular saw
Tape measure
Clamps
Staple gun

Images

Re: How to add an extension to a Colorbond fence

algenebautista — Fri, 23 Oct 2020 07:43:27 GMT

This is my existing fence on one side.

Re: How to add an extension to a Colorbond fence

algenebautista — Fri, 23 Oct 2020 07:13:13 GMT

This is what I need for my fence extension. Thanks heaps!

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Thu, 22 Oct 2020 23:00:31 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fabulous to have you join us and many thanks for jumping into the conversation.

Were you interested in building something like this for your backyard?

I trust our community would like to follow along with your build and we'd encourage you to let us know if you need any assistance or would like to share your results. I trust you'll find loads of inspiration from within the community as our creative members are sharing their projects here every day.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Thu, 22 Oct 2020 22:57:47 GMT

Many thanks for your kind words.

My young daughter likes doing some gardening and the capping is great for her to lean/sit on.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

Tairi — Thu, 22 Oct 2020 04:26:25 GMT

Easy. Thanks for sharing.

Re: Bunnings Workshop community update

Jason — Wed, 21 Oct 2020 18:32:39 GMT

That's awesome, many thanks for the feedback . So pleased you continue to get plenty of inspiration and information from other members.

We're certainly all about trying to build people's confidence to have a go. It is so inspiring to see what someone just like you has achieved in their home or garden. I also love how encouraging you are towards other community members - you are always quick to give people a pat on the back for their hard work.

Please don't hesitate to give us a shout whenever we can help.

Thanks again,

Jason

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

rattle — Wed, 21 Oct 2020 14:05:59 GMT

Good stuff 👍

Very clear instructions.

I like the width of the capping so you can lean on it or even place things on it as you work.

Re: Bunnings Workshop community update

rattle — Wed, 21 Oct 2020 13:44:03 GMT

Good stuff . 👍

This web site has provided me with inspiration, it has encouraged me to have a go and it has been a good source of information which has helped with my confidence in doing various tasks.

I really appreciate the efforts of yourself, the rest of the team and all who take time to share their projects and information with others.

Congrats and good luck with everything.

Re: Bunnings Workshop community update

Jason — Wed, 21 Oct 2020 04:45:15 GMT

It's our priviledge to be able to showcase such creative projects and chat with wonderful people every day. Thank you so much for all your contributions to the site . You have helped and inspired so many people!

Jason

Re: Top 10 most popular garden makeovers

Jason — Wed, 21 Oct 2020 04:39:57 GMT

The Bunnings Workshop community certainly loves a good garden makeover! This article is one of the most popular on the site so it's been great to update it. Hope you get plenty of ideas and inspiration from the projects listed.

Congratulations to all those members who have projects featured. We love your work.

Jason

Re: How to build a retaining wall

Adam_W — Wed, 21 Oct 2020 03:22:29 GMT

Hi , It can be a bit 6 of one 1/2 dozen of the other to be honest. Treated pine would typically last longer in a wider range of situations but in say a dry situation hardwood may outlast treated pine. Remember that any timber that isn't treated is prone to attack from termites so that can be the downfall (pardon the pun...) of hardwood. You'll find however that many of the hardwood sleepers are chemically treated now too to extend their life still further and protect against bugs.
The thing with hardwood is it is a lot harder to work with - heavier, harder to cut, all screw holes will need to be pre-drilled etc.
Personally I'd just go microshades pine. A lot cheaper too 200 x 50 x 2.4 microshades is around $16.50. Hardwood same size is $23.43.
If you don't like the colour of pine it's easy enough to stain or even paint. Just do so before you install.

Re: Bunnings Workshop community update

Adam_W — Wed, 21 Oct 2020 03:12:24 GMT

Great stuff & team and thank you for your tireless work building this fantastic, welcoming and incredibly valuable community forum.
Looking forward to seeing what the future holds!

Re: How to build a retaining wall

Jason — Tue, 20 Oct 2020 21:23:14 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We're so pleased to have you join us and look forward to reading about all your projects and plans for around the house and garden. We're sure you will get plenty of helpful information, advice and inspiration from our amazing community members.

Let me tag the wonderful for his thoughts on what timber is best suited to your retaining wall project.

Jason

Re: How to build a retaining wall

melvah6 — Tue, 20 Oct 2020 09:05:26 GMT

What are the best type of sleepers to place as a retainer wall just slightly in the ground. Pine or hardwood - I understand whichever must be at least h4 treated, but is pine going to last longer than hardwood, or the other way round???

Re: Bunnings Workshop community update

Jason — Tue, 20 Oct 2020 05:26:02 GMT

Thanks , it's been fantastic to have you as a founding member. It's a wonderful community because of people like you who are so generous in sharing their time, experience and knowledge with others.

Thanks again,

Jason

Re: Bunnings Workshop community update

ProjectPete — Mon, 19 Oct 2020 22:11:19 GMT

Very exciting times my friend! Congrats!

Bunnings Workshop community update

Jason — Mon, 19 Oct 2020 21:28:10 GMT

For nearly five years, clever and creative Workshop community members have been helping each other with their home improvement projects and providing fantastic inspiration to start something new. Every day our members generously share their knowledge, experience and ideas.

We're really proud that this is a community where people are friendly and encouraging, that this is a place of respect and belonging. Everyone is welcome and encouraged to participate.

Overwhelming feedback from our members has told us that you would value more involvement from the Bunnings team in addition to more of what you already love about the site - lots more helpful home improvement discussions, how-to advice, and project inspiration.

You'll notice today we have made some changes to the Workshop site that are just the start of much closer ties with the Bunnings family. We have exciting plans for making the site easier to use and navigate, and for significantly growing the community so that many more people can join in the discussions and share their projects.

The biggest change today is that we have moved Workshop to the new address of workshop.bunnings.com.au. We encourage you to update your bookmarks, although all old links will automatically redirect.

We're really excited about the future of the Bunnings Workshop community and will be sharing more with you soon. If you have any questions or concerns about the changes, please don't hesitate to reply below or send me a private message.

How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Sun, 25 Oct 2020 23:31:44 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

A fantastic raised garden bed for growing vegetables or other plants can be constructed from recycled pallet timber.

This project can be built for a minimal cost and be customised to suit your needs.

Follow our simple step-by-step instructions, and feel free to ask any questions about the build process in the comments section below.

Steps

Step 1

You’ll find pine pallets the easiest to work with for this project. They are readily available and last a significant amount of time out in the weather. It’s best to pick up pallets that are in a reasonable condition, avoiding those with damaged or warped and twisted boards.

After acquiring your pallets, disassemble them by removing the boards from the runner. Select the straightest timber runners as you’ll be using these for your frame. For each frame we will need two runners and two shorter cross pieces. The length of the cross pieces will determine the depth of your planter. The runners should be approximately 120cm from your pallet. The cross pieces will be a runner cut in half at 60cm.

Step 2

After cutting a runner in half to form shorter cross pieces pre-drill the end of the longer runners with a 6mm drill bit in two places. Drive in two of your longer bugle screws into the cross pieces end. Repeat this on all four corners. You’ll need to make two of these frames for the top and bottom.

Step 3

Cut four upright posts at 50cm length. The length of these will determine the height of your planter. From the inside of the frame screw these uprights into the corners with your treated pine screws. From the outside add some additional screws for strength.

Step 4

Begin laying out your boards. Fix the boards to the top and bottom timber on the frame with screws. You should use two screws in the top and two in the bottom of the board.

Step 5

Once the boards are fixed in place, cut them flush with the top of the frame.

Step 6

Select some boards to use as capping pieces. These will be used to finish the top and hold the plastic liner in position. Cut the boards to size.

Step 7

Lay builder’s plastic into the planter. Sandwich the plastic in between the frame and the capping boards. Screw the boards in place. Trim the excess plastic off.

You’ve now completed your garden planter. For a fabulous addition, consider adding an additional vertical garden behind the planter. Our step-by-step guide How to build a vertical garden can show you how.

Materials

Four pallets
25 galvanised bugle screws - size 14g x 100mm
150 treated pine screws – size 10 x 65mm
One roll of builder’s plastic 2 x 5m

Tools

Drill driver
6mm drill bit
Handsaw or circular saw

Images

Re: Top 10 most popular deck projects

Jason — Sun, 18 Oct 2020 23:27:49 GMT

It's been fantastic to update our collection of most popular decking projects. Congratulations to all those Bunnings Workshop members who have projects featured. I trust you are all still enjoying spending lots of time on your wonderful decks.

Jason

Re: Top 10 most popular outdoor projects

Jason — Thu, 15 Oct 2020 23:41:37 GMT

I've really enjoyed updating this popular article and admiring so many wonderful outdoor projects shared by our clever and creative members. Congratulations to all those who have projects featured.

Please don't hesitate to let us know if you need a hand with your project, no matter how big or small.

Jason

Re: Top 10 most popular fence projects

ProjectPete — Thu, 15 Oct 2020 02:01:38 GMT

I've got another fence project in the works using Merbau screening panels in a pool/entertaining area - looking forward to sharing that . It's the perfect time to tick these fencing projects off before we're spending more time outdoors this Spring/Summer.

Re: Top 10 most popular fence projects

Jason — Thu, 15 Oct 2020 01:00:29 GMT

It's been great to update this very popular article as there's been so many fantastic fencing and screening projects shared by Bunnings Workshop community members lately, as well as inspiring vertical gardens.

Thanks so much to all those who have shared projects with the community, and a special congratulations to those who are in the Top 10!

If you'd like to tackle your own fence project, please let us know. We're here to help.

Jason

Re: Top 10 most popular garage and shed projects

Jason — Wed, 14 Oct 2020 01:25:49 GMT

Hi all,

We've updated this incredibly popular Top 10 article so it includes the latest pageview data. Congratulations to all those Workshop community members that have projects featured. The standard of projects shared is really inspiring.

Please let us know if you need a hand with your own garage and shed project. We're here to help.

Jason

Re: Top 10 most popular renovation projects

Jason — Tue, 13 Oct 2020 01:33:21 GMT

We have updated this very popular article. Congratulations to all those Bunnings Workshop members who have had their projects featured.

Jason

Re: Top 10 most popular kids projects

MitchellMc — Mon, 12 Oct 2020 02:29:17 GMT

There are plenty of amazing projects here to add to my list of things to build.

Well done everyone on your amazing efforts.

Mitchell

Re: Top 10 most popular kids projects

Jason — Mon, 12 Oct 2020 02:09:44 GMT

We have updated this incredibly popular article with the latest pageview data. Congratulations to all Bunnings Workshop members who have had their projects featured in the list.

Jason

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Fri, 09 Oct 2020 00:56:45 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fabulous to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

As mentions, an untreated hardwood would a suitable choice of materials. Our 200 x 50mm 2.4m Hardwood Sleeper is available to be special ordered into stores.

There is also the concrete sleeper range if you didn't want to use treated timber for your project.

For some inspiration, you might like to check out our Top 10 most popular raised garden beds and these previous discussions: Rustic railway sleeper garden bed by and What type of timber for a garden bed? by

We look forward to hearing more about your raised garden bed project and we'd encourage you to let us know if you need assistance or would like to share it with the community.

Mitchell

Re: Top 10 most popular kitchen projects

ProjectPete — Thu, 08 Oct 2020 02:07:52 GMT

Some great projects in there! Love the half dowel on the kitchen island in the feature image which has reminded me to share a little facelift I gave someone's kitchen island recently.

So many styling options out there from natural timbers/materials, to a huge range of colour-choices, and different geometric patterns.

Top 10 most popular kitchen projects

Jason — Thu, 08 Oct 2020 00:59:17 GMT

The kitchen is the heart and soul of a home, and frequently the centre of activity. It’s not just a place to cook – it’s a place where people spend time together.

You can get loads of ideas and inspiration for your kitchen from our clever and creative Bunnings Workshop community members.

Here are the Top 10 most popular kitchen projects on Workshop by pageviews:

1. Bathroom, laundry and kitchen refresh by

Rohan’s main goal for his kitchen renovation was more bench space and room for appliances. But it was removing a wall and opening up the kitchen to the living area that had the most dramatic impact in transforming the space.

The cottage makeover included a new kitchen

2. 80s kitchen reno on a budget by

This budget kitchen makeover was completed for less than $1000 and included new bench tops, sink and tapware. Cupboards were painted and a new tiled splashback added.

3. Before and after cottage makeover by

Renovation expert Belinda Smith transformed a tired weatherboard into an absolutely gorgeous cottage that sold after the very first inspection. Belinda typically sets a renovation budget of 10% of the purchase price, spending the money where it reaps the most return, which always includes the kitchen. The kitchen transformation included new cabinetry, appliances, splashback and stone benchtops.

4. 1970s kitchen renovation by

The 70s-era kitchen that my wife and I inherited when we purchased our house would be typical of many Australian homes. It deserved the sledgehammer. Over 10 years later we still love the functional and clean design of our replacement kitchen, which also incorporates a European-style laundry.

Utilising space beside the fridge

5. Very budget kitchen reno by

Facing two very common problems – a lack of kitchen workspace and a lack of funds – Ang_flange got expert assistance from redracer01 about how to incorporate a kitchen island and make the most of limited space by moving the pantry.

6. California Bungalow renovation by

Like many projects, this renovation came with surprises such as a water leak and mould behind the existing kitchen cabinetry. We love the use of overhead cupboards to add plenty of storage in the new-look space.

7. Pull out storage to utilise space next to fridge by

This simple yet brilliant project made from pine, dowel and runners has inspired other community members to create their own versions. We are also looking forward to an upcoming new revision where the shelves can be moved up and down for added flexibility.

Heritage-style cabinets feature in this homely kitchen

8. Changing kitchen cupboards to drawers by

Drawers are much more practical and accessible than cupboards. You can typically fit a lot more in a drawer and items are easier to reach.

9. 1960s kitchen renovation by

With dated décor, limited bench space and little storage, this 1960s-era kitchen needed a major overhaul. A Bunnings kitchen consultant was used to help transform the space to include a wonderful large island bench, farmhouse sink, subway tiles and a cute café-style counter for enjoying a morning coffee.

10. Kitchen makeover by

Most materials for this homely kitchen makeover came from Bunnings and the project was a three-month labour of love. It includes striking heritage-style cabinet doors, island bench, new appliances and sink.

Need help with your kitchen project?

The helpful Bunnings Workshop community can assist with inspiration and advice for your kitchen renovation or makeover.

Please don’t hesitate to head to the Kitchen discussion board on Workshop, hit the Start a discussion button and tell us what you would like to achieve to transform your home.

We’re here to help.

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

Ayse — Wed, 07 Oct 2020 11:45:51 GMT

I love the look!

I want to make ome for myself but need non treated raw materials.

Any reccomendations?

How to add an extension to a Colorbond fence

ProjectPete — Thu, 01 Oct 2020 00:50:22 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

A fence extension can add welcome privacy for your outdoor spaces, as well as enhanced security for your property.

While the standard install height for Colorbond fencing is 1800mm, for a small investment you can add privacy and security to your boundary fencing with D.I.Y. extensions taking the finished height to 2100mm.

As with any changes to a shared boundary, remember to talk to you neighbour before starting work. It’s the right thing to do and they might even agree to share the cost. It is also wise to contact your local council.

Sponsored Post

Steps

Step 1

Measure your existing fencing to determine your material list. Simply count the number of sheets, uprights and rails that you have. That will be the quantity of each of the items needed in the extension kit. To calculate how many plate brackets, just count how many uprights you have, halve it, and add one (for the end).

Note that some sections (from upright to upright) will be shorter or longer than the rest, so be sure to measure the rails and order the lengths required. Keep in mind you may need to cut some to fit.

Step 2

The plate brackets are usually 250mm long so start by marking the halfway point on all of them before hammering them all into place with your claw hammer down to the halfway point you marked. A flat head screwdriver comes in handy to create some space for the plate bracket between the top rail and the upright depending on how closely they’ve been installed.

With the plate brackets in place, slide one 300mm upright over the bracket and place a second one up against it. Now clamp them together and ensure they’re level. Then pop two of the button head screws through both uprights and the plate bracket in a diagonal configuration.

Step 3

With all your upright extensions in place, slide one end of a rail into an upright, then slide the other end in a downward direction to fit into the upright at the other end of the section. This is your new bottom rail. Once it’s in place, pop a screw in each end and one in the middle to attach it to the top rail of the existing fence. Repeat this step for each section.

Step 4

Now pop your first sheet into the bottom rail and slide it into the upright. Ensure you align the profile with the existing fence below. With the first one in place, take note of how and where the sheets on the existing fence overlap each other and continue inserting your remaining sheets, keeping an eye on the alignment of your profile.

For this step, do only one section, then go to Step 5.

Step 5

With a section of sheets in place, grab another rail and insert one end into the upright (like you did in Step 4). Slowly and carefully wriggle it into place over the sheets dealing with small parts at a time. Wriggling the rail back and forth, essentially following the wavy profile of the sheets, will help get it in place.

Once it’s in place, check it’s level then screw a hex head through the uprights and into the rail (at the top) to hold it in place. Do the same on the other side of the upright (neighbour’s side). Repeat for the bottom of the uprights. Note that it’s not necessary to do the bottom of the upright on neighbour’s side.

Repeat Step 4 and 5 until all sections are complete. You have now finished your Colorbond fence extensions. Now is the perfect time to clean off any cobwebs and dirt and treat it all with pest spray.

Step 6

You might like to consider cladding your fence to add sophistication and style to your backyard. There are many options to consider, from quality fibre cement products from James Hardie through to pre-made and bespoke timber screening. Whichever way you go, you’re going to need to install a H3 treated pine frame to attach your cladding to and the type of framing required will depend on your chosen cladding.

An already braced premade timber panel will likely only require some 50 x 25mm treated pine fixed to the top and bottom rails with 14g x 50mm Metal Teks. Then use either colour-matched timber screws or trim head screws to fix the panels to the treated pine frame.

Fibre cement would require a more complex 70x35mm treated pine frame to be attached to the top and bottom rails along with vertical lengths at certain points (see installation guides) and noggins to ensure a strong foundation.

If you need a hand with your fence cladding project, just let us know by commenting below. Good luck and please share your project with the community.

Materials

Colorbond fence extension kit, including:
- 300mm sheets
- 300mm uprights
- Plate brackets
- Rails
- 20mm self-tapping metal screws
- 16mm hex head self-tapping metal screws (to match your Colorbond colour)

Tools

Tape measure
Spirit level (ideally 2100mm)
Pencil or marker
Clamps which open at least 150mm
Claw hammer
Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer
Large flat head screwdriver
Drill – An impact driver makes the job easier
Ladder (tall enough for you to safely reach a drilling point of 2100mm)
Angle grinder or hacksaw with a steel blade
Personal protective equipment