How To articles

How to build a desk

Peggers — Tue, 23 Feb 2021 01:15:01 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

If you’ve been making do with the dining table while working from home, maybe it’s time to build a dedicated workspace.

This is a reasonably simple build - one that could help you progress further from beginner level, with a few new skills involved.

Inspiration for this How To guide comes from the Computer desk build by Bunnings Workshop member @Nham. Further inspiration was taken from the Rustic computer desk created by @jeevanfranciz.

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Steps

Step 1

Take the 1800mm x 90mm plank of Tasmanian Oak and measure and cut two pieces 405mm long for your sides and a 390mm section for the central divider.

Step 2

For the desktop, we want a smooth and clean finish, so the sides and divider should be attached using wood dowels and glue rather than screws.

Measure exactly corresponding holes - three will be enough - on the underside of the desktop, and the top of the sides and central divider. Be careful drilling into the desktop, as your holes should only be 10mm deep - just over halfway through. In the sides and divider you have more room to play with.

Insert the wood dowels with a small amount of wood glue on each, and attach the sides and central divider to the underside of the desktop.

. . .

Step 3

For the bottom of the desk, you can use screws rather than dowels. Screws are quicker, easier and won’t be seen.

Place the bottom panel of the desk on top of the sides and central divider in the correct position. Drill a hole through a corner of the panel into one of the sides and then secure with a 50mm screw. Then repeat for the rest of the side, the other side panel and the central divider.

This completes the main body of the desk.

Step 4

While the main body of the desk is still upside down, screw the table legs to each corner of the bottom panel. Measure 25mm in from the front and sides of the desk and screw the leg plate to the bottom of the desk - make sure this distance is uniform for all four legs.

Once attached, turn the body and legs over and the desk is really taking shape. In fact, you could finish at this point and varnish if you don’t want drawers.

. . .

Step 5

To make the drawers, first measure the entrance of the main body to see how big your drawer fronts need to be. If you’ve followed our instructions correctly, each drawer front should be 570mm long.

You’ll need four pieces of dressed pine 570mm long for the front and back of the drawers, and four pieces 360mm long for the sides.

Step 6

With the drawer front, back and sides complete, you need the base of the drawer. Cut your piece of 1200mm x 405mm x 18mm timber into two sections that are 530mm x 360mm. These need to be measured exactly so that they fit snugly in the centre of your drawer sides. In this instance that’s two pieces of wood 530mm by 360mm.

In the same way we joined the side panels and central divider to the desktop, we need to use dowels and glue to construct the drawer fronts, but the sides and back can use screws.

Start by attaching the sides, then screw on the back. When you have a firm structure, attach the drawer fronts with glue and dowels.

Check to see if your drawers fit correctly. If not, some light sanding might be required.

. .

Step 7

To finish the drawers, I reckon they look great with a vintage white effect to the fronts rather than just pine. You don’t need to paint the whole drawer, just the fronts. You won’t need a lot of paint, just one decent coat with a sample pot. When the paint has dried, take some fine grade sandpaper - 120 grit is perfect - and randomly sand back the paint to reveal underlying grains and create very small patches of wood. You get a weathered antique effect which will contrast really well with the dark wood of the desk body.

Finally, add the cabinet knobs to each drawer. Drill a hole through the drawer from the front, making sure you mark the exact centre of the front. Push the screw through and tighten the knob.

. .

Step 8

With the desk now complete you just need to add some varnish. It looks good if you varnish the body but leave the drawers matt to emphasise the contrast. You can add a dark stain to the desk body if you want to make the contrast even greater. Or equally you can varnish over the white vintage wood to give that a shine as well.

Your desk is now complete - just add a laptop and a mug of coffee!

. . .

Materials

2 Merbau Timber panels measuring 1200mm x 405mm x 18mm
1 piece of Dressed Tasmanian Oak measuring 1800mm x 90mm x 19mm
3 pieces of Dressed Pine 1800mm x 89mm x 19mm
1 piece of timber 1200mm x 405mm x 18mm
Pack of Timber Dowels
Pack of 50mm screws
Pack of chunky 12mm screws
Wood glue
250ml of Ultra Gloss Timber Varnish
250ml White sample pot of paint
2 cabinet knobs
1m sandpaper 120 grit
4 Hairpin table legs

Tools

Handsaw
Drill
Tape measure
Ruler or square
Pencil
Phillips screwdriver
Paint brush

Images

How to build a tiered plant stand

MitchellMc — Mon, 22 Feb 2021 00:36:34 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Save space by displaying your potted plants using this easy-to-build tiered plant stand.

The simple design makes it a fantastic project to build over a weekend. It requires minimal tools and woodworking experience.

This project is inspired by the popular garden planter stand by Bunnings Workshop member . Many thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us.

Steps

Step 1

Take your treated Pine sleepers and cut four lengths of 600mm and two lengths of 400mm using your circular saw. You will use these for the sides of the stand.

If you don’t have a circular saw you might like to take advantage of the timber cutting service at a Bunnings Warehouse.

. .

Step 2

Position the timber you’ve cut as per the image. Place one 600mm piece on the ground horizontally and the other 600mm and 400mm pieces vertically. Mark four locations per upright on the horizontal piece for the screws to be placed. Clamp your pieces before drilling to ensure they don’t move around.

. .

Step 3

Pre-drill the holes where you marked with the 8mm drill-bit and counter-sink those holes. Screw the timber together using the 75mm bugle head screws.

. .

Step 4

Start dry fitting the slats, spacing them evenly on the side panels. Ensure a gap is left between the boards for water drainage.

Step 5

Once you have the slats in position, pre-drill the ends with a 5mm drill-bit and counter-sink those holes. Now install the 40mm treated Pine screws, fixing the slats to the sides. Add a finishing slat to the top tier to prevent pots from falling off the top.

. . . .

Step 6

You can now coat your stand in your choice of exterior stain and varnish to protect it from the elements.

You’ve now completed an extremely functional pot stand that you can use to happily display your favourite plants.

. . .

Materials

2 x 200mm x 50mm treated Pine sleepers
10 x 75mm bugle head screws
100 x 8G x 40mm treated Pine screws
19 x 1.2m Cypress pickets
1L exterior varnish

Tools

Circular saw (if timber is not pre-cut)
Drill driver
5/8mm drill-bit
Counter-sink bit
Clamp
Paintbrush

Images

Essential hand tools for D.I.Y. beginners

Peggers — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 04:05:32 GMT

Want to get started with D.I.Y. projects but don’t know where to start? Here’s a helpful list of every hand tool you should need.

We explain what you need, why you need it, and provide tips from some of Bunnings Workshop’s most trusted community members.

This helpful advice from is also worth keeping in mind: “My advice for all beginners is to do your research before purchasing anything. Everyone’s D.I.Y. journey is different, so it’s important you purchase the tools best for you.”

If you need any advice, don’t hesitate to ask. We’re here to help.

Hammer

What: A wooden or plastic handle with a weighted metal head that is rounded at one end, with a fork-like claw at the other.

Why: Used for driving nails into wood or removing nails with the claw end. Aside from your D.I.Y. projects, most flatpack furniture will almost always have a laminate panel that needs tacking onto the back with small nails.

They say: “The humble hammer is one of the most versatile tools and a must for all newbies. It builds, it breaks, it nails, and de-nails. It aligns, it forces. It makes dents or removes them. The hammer is so versatile that we have a saying in New Zealand: ‘If it can't be fixed with Number 8 wire and a hammer, it can't be fixed at all’.

Phillips screwdriver

What: This the screwdriver with the pointed cross shape at the end.

Why: Most people use Phillips screws because you can get a tighter fit than with flathead screws. Almost all projects require screws, and most screws are Phillips, so this is an absolutely essential piece of kit. It’s worth getting a selection of different sizes.

They say: “A Philips screwdriver is probably the most used tool in my possession - caravans have screws everywhere!”

Flathead screwdriver

What: The screwdriver with the straight flat tip.

Why: Older pieces of furniture tend to have flathead screws, which were the norm in the past, and so you’ll need this alongside your Phillips. It is also used as paint tin opener!

They say: “The Kincrome Ratchet Screwdriver is my choice, it comes with multiple bits that store in the handle and it has a reasonable grip. Much less brutal than an impact driver when the material may be a little fragile and some feel is needed to prevent stripping the screws.”

Tape Measure

What: A flexible and retractable steel ruler for measuring lengths.

Why: Whether wood, metal, carpet or glass, you need to have measurements for any project. Things need to line up and fit together.

They say: “A good retractable tape measure with a long ‘Standout’ (ability to extend without bending), is essential… if the specs don’t mention the standout you will be frustrated when you need to measure anything away from you.”

Utility knife

What: Also known as a Stanley knife or craft knife, this is a sharp cutting tool comprising a handle with a small retractable razor blade.

Why: Used for cutting materials such as vinyl flooring, carpet or plastic sheeting, you can get a deep, straight, thin and accurate cut.

They say: “Handy for getting into packaging and trimming up your masking for painting while the blade will retract to go safely into your toolbox.”

Handsaw

What: Also known as a panel saw, this is a solid flat cutting tool with a serrated edge.

Why: This is for cutting (sawing) through wood and timber. At some stage you could also add a jigsaw for smaller, more intricate cuts.

They say: “A handsaw gives you more options for projects - you don’t need to buy wood in an exact size if you can cut it yourself.”

Adjustable wrench

What: Also known as an adjustable spanner, this is a wrench that can change the size of its opening.

Why: Almost always used to tighten or loosen nuts and bolts.

They say: “Buy good quality and a variety of sizes. Don't use them as hammers!”

Pliers

What: They look like chunky scissors, but pliers have opposing jaws to grip, rather than cut.

Why: Used mostly for gripping, such as when tightening bolts, but also to remove items such as nails or screws from wood by gripping, twisting and pulling.

They say: “Pliers are ‘life-savers’ that can rescue many situations, such as removing a chewed out screw head or nail with no head left on. Just grab the top of the item and twist, or lever it out. Also great for holding things more powerfully than your fingers can while drilling, bending, etc.”

Spirit Level

What: Using an air bubble in liquid as the indicator, a level is used to show how parallel or perpendicular a surface is.

Why: Used on a variety of D.I.Y. projects, but especially when building decks or tables to ensure a flat, even surface.

They say: “Underated at first but critical if you aren't a fan of wonky things. This for me is a must have me has improved my accuracy game... While also ensuring all photo frames hung are level”.

Square

What: An L-shaped ruler used for drawing perpendicular lines at measured intervals.

Why: In theory you can measure both sides of a plank of wood, mark dots and then join them with a ruler, but there always seems to be some inexactness to that. A square will give you perfect lines at right angles every time.

They say: “Highly recommended, great for marking your cut lines so that everything will line up later on”

Paint brushes

What: A tool with a handle and bristles used to apply paint.

Why: Either for paint, stain or varnish, you’ll need a brush to apply the finishing touches to a project. Wide brushes for big surfaces, narrow brushes for deft touches. And a dry brush to flick away dust before you start painting or varnishing.

They say: “Some may think all paint brushes are the same but over the years I’ve learnt that they defiantly are not and you really do get what you pay for. The better quality the brush the better the finish will be. Also when choosing a brush, find one that is specifically designed for the purpose you are want to use it for. For example, what type of paint you are using, or if you are using it to cut in corners. Find a brush that suits that purpose.”

Clamps

What: Call it a C-clamp or a G-clamp, this is an adjustable grip for holding things steady.

Why: Ideal for holding things together while the glue sets between them, or sometimes just an extra pair of hands for holding something in place while you work on it.

They say: “Never has a tool been more useful when making boxes or picture frames. This tool is indispensable when you are by yourself and need to join two pieces of timber to create the first join of one side of a box or cabinet.”

Putty knife

What: Also referred to as a paint scraper, this is a thin, flat, metal edge with a wooden handle.

Why: You need a putty knife for scraping wallpaper from walls, paint from wood, plaster from concrete, or any surface that needs scraping clean as part of preparation. It can also be used for applying filler or plaster.

They say: “While the 5-in-1 or 7-in-1 scrapers are the flavour of the month if you are trying to fix an old-style window and you don't have a glazier’s finger skills, a putty knife is great for removing old lose putty and with some practice replacing it, also good to use for filling wood.”

File

What: Long steel tool with a roughened surface used for abrasion.

Why: Some materials are too tough to be smoothed with sandpaper and need something stronger to break down the edges. And sometimes when something doesn’t quite fit perfectly, a file can reduce the size minutely - a cut with a saw might be too big.

They say: “Get all the cross-sectional shapes available and buy good quality.”

Ruler and pencil

What: Just like in your school pencil case - a 12-inch steel rule and a lead pencil.

Why: Every project needs marking and measuring - and a pencil and steel ruler are your best friends.

They say: “Pencil marks can easily be sanded or wiped off. Pen can be permanent.”

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How to build a pallet bar

Peggers — Thu, 21 Jan 2021 03:47:56 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

There’s something warm and inviting about a bar, drawing people around and sparking great conversations. How good would it be to have your own bar for entertaining friends and family?

This pallet bar is cheap and easy to make. It only requires two pallets and virtually no dismantling required.

Inspiration for this project came from the Service bar made by the pallet maestro @Yorky88. Some of Marty’s other bar creations have also influenced the design, including this very popular creation, this bar with built-in coolers, and this rustic version.

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Steps

Step 1

Choosing pallets isn’t rocket science, but for this project it would help if you had two pallets the same size, shape and type of wood. Newer, lighter-coloured and lighter-weight wood pallets tend to be easier to work with. The older the pallets, the more twisted and gnarled the nails might be, making them harder to dismantle.

There are a few ways to dismantle pallets, which has been a popular topic of Bunnings Workshop discussion in the past. @MitchellMc gives some great advice on how to take apart pallets in this post, while @Brad shares a great video in this post. Fortunately, this project does not require a lot of dismantling. You just need to remove the boards from the back of one of the pallets – with most pallets that’s only four boards in total.

Step 2

To prepare the wood, take a file and scrape off the splinters that tend to hang along the edges of the pallet boards. It’s a quick job that can be done by just scraping your file along the edge of each board.

Then sand the top of each cross board using an electric sander with a medium grain paper such as 80 grit. With pallet furniture, especially the outdoor variety, you don’t necessarily need a super-smooth finish. If you do one side of the pallet at a time you can get a sense of how the wood is changing. You can sand by hand, but it is much quicker and easier with an electric sander.

Step 3

The front of the bar is an untouched pallet. There’s no need to do anything other than sand the wood and then stand it on its side.

Step 4

There is a really quick and simple way to make the sides of the bar without dismantling the pallet. Take the pallet that you have removed the back boards from. Mark a pencil line along the entire length of the central pallet runner. Then take a jigsaw and cut through these lines. Repeat on the other side of the central runner and you will be left with two sides for your bar.

Step 5

Attaching the sides should be fairly intuitive. Line them up with the front part of the bar and clamp one of the side panel boards to the side runner of the front pallet. Do the same to both sides and your bar should be taking shape.

Now drill two holes diagonally through the top side board and the supporting runner of the front pallet. Screw together with two timber screws. Then repeat this all the way down the side.

Step 6

There are a few different ways to complete the top of the bar. If your boards from the back of the side pallet are intact, then you can use them - although it’s nice if you can find wood that contrasts with the rest of the bar. Some dressed pine or rough timber is good if you have some around. I had the off-cut of a timber panel from another project that offered a good contrast. Your bar top needs to be 1.2m x 25cm.

You could get an invisible join by using wooden dowels and drilling holes halfway through the underside of the bar top. But because this is for out-side and I’m happy for it to look rustic, I just attached the bar top with timber screws. As the wood panel is soft, the screws are easily sunken.

Step 7

You can add a stain or varnish to your bar, or paint it according to your taste. For my bar I’ve used a gloss varnish on the bar top. A small 250ml pot will be more than enough. With only one coat, you can already see the contrast between varnished finished wood on top and lightly sanded bare wood on the structure. There are no rules, but if you’re going to leave the bar outside at all times in all conditions, then varnishing the whole unit would be recommended.

Step 8

It’s always good to customise a bar. You might like to add pictures or paint a slogan or name. I had an old drinks crate in the workshop and also added some retro ornaments.

One other addition to consider is an internal shelf below the bar top to store things on. This can easily be done by running wood from one side panel strut to its corresponding strut on the other side.

Hey presto - the bar is open!

Materials

2 Pallets
A piece of timber (1.2m x 25cm)
30-40 65mm timber screws
250ml of varnish

Tools

Hammer or wrecking bar
File
Electric sander
Electric jigsaw
2 clamps
Electric drill
Phillips screwdriver
Paint brush
Ruler
Pencil

Images

How to build a slimline spice rack

MitchellMc — Tue, 12 Jan 2021 22:56:13 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

Most people would love more kitchen storage, so ideas to maximise use of your precious space are always popular.

This slimline spice rack can fit neatly in a gap beside a fridge – often wasted space that does nothing except collect dust.

The inspiration for this popular project comes from Pull out storage to utilise space next to fridge, with credit to for the wonderful design.

Thanks also to @jessica_roesel, @keithT, @Pasan and @Prof for sharing your creations with us.

Steps

Step 1

Begin your project by cutting all the timber to length. Take four of your dressed Pine 89 x19mm and cut them in half at 90cm for the shelves. For the railings, cut the Pine dowel into 92cm lengths.

Step 2

Lay out your shelves and the two full-length sides. Position the first two shelves 23cm apart at the top, and then transition to 33cm apart for the bottom three shelves. Mark out on the side panels where the shelves top and bottom edges will go. Then mark out locations for the rail holes, 4.5cm above the top of the shelves mark and 1.5cm in from the edge of the side panels.

Step 3

Take a scrap piece of wood and create a guide by transferring the rail hole measurements onto it. Drill out these holes and then clamp the guide onto your side panel. You will drill into the side panel to a depth of 10mm. To achieve this, add 10mm to the thickness of your guide and then wrap some painter’s tape around the drill bit at that point. The tape will be an indicator that you are only drilling 10mm into the side panel, and the guide will keep your holes consistent.

Drill all the rail holes into the side panels. Drill three holes per shelf side with your 3mm drill bit. These holes will fall between the lines you marked earlier for the top and bottom of the shelf.

Step 4

Take one side panel and apply PVA glue both to the location where the shelves will fix, and to the shelf ends. Use three screws 8 x 50mm to secure one end of the shelves to the side panel. Some corner clamps can come in handy to keep the shelves perpendicular to the side panel. Insert the 8 x 50mm screws partially into the second side panel.

Step 5

Stand the unit on edge, so the shelves are vertical. Apply glue to the ends of the shelves and the dowels and to the additional side panel. Insert the dowels into the lower side panel. Take the remaining side panel and place it on top of the shelves and dowels.

Starting from one end, line up the dowels with the pre-drilled holes and tap the side panel into place with a hammer. A scrap block of timber will prevent the hammer marking the side panel as you tap it into place. Once the side panel is in place, secure all the screws into the shelves.

Step 6

Apply timber putty over all screws, and any joins that have gaps. Wait for this to dry and then sand back the excess putty. Apply a second skim coat of putty and then sand again when it is dry.

Step 7

Lay drop sheets to prevent drips and then use water-based enamel paint to coat your unit. You will need to apply a few coats to get an excellent finish. Wait for the paint to dry.

Step 8

Install your four casters onto the bottom of the unit. It would be best if you stepped the castors at the front slightly back, hiding them under it. Next, mark out the position of the handle at the height of your preference. Drill holes and install the handle with the screws provided.

Congratulations. You've now completed your hidden spice rack shelf. Enjoy filling it with an assortment of your favourite fragrant ingredients.

Materials

6 pieces of 1.8m dressed Pine 89 x19mm
12 pieces of Pine dowel 12.7mm 1.2m
42 screws 8 x 50mm
16 screws 8 x 18mm
500ml PVA glue
4 50mm castors
1 drawer handle
1 litre water-based enamel paint
Timber putty

Tools

Drill driver
12.7mm drill bit
3mm drill bit
Circular saw or mitre saw
Tape measure
Clamps
Hammer
Paint brush or spray gun
Painter's tape

Images

How to feed your garden

Noelle — Thu, 03 Dec 2020 04:09:09 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Keeping your garden healthy and producing lots of flowers and delicious fruits, vegies and herbs sounds like a lot of work but it is really simple. All it takes is regular applications of plant food and (of course) plenty of water.

Lawns will also look better and be able to withstand challenging weather as well as foot traffic when fed at least once every season.

Follow our steps for how to feed your garden and it will be thriving in no time.

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Steps

Step 1

There are many different types of fertiliser. What you use will depend on largely personal choice (organic, natural or inorganic) and the results you want.

Liquids and water-soluble crystals or powders are readily absorbed directly through leaves as well as roots via the soil. Their nutrients are immediately available and will give plants an instant boost when applied.

Granular or pelletised fertilisers are usually slow or controlled release formulations that gently and slowly release nutrients over an extended period, from a few weeks to up to 12 months.

A combination of both instant and long-term fertilisers is often the best solution for a great garden.

Step 2

Always ensure you use “garden” fertilisers on garden beds and “lawn” fertilisers on lawns. Don’t be tempted to use a one-size-fits-all approach – there are differences in formulation and nutrient values (NPK) and the way each type works. Lawn fertilisers are high in nitrogen to encourage lush leafy growth – perfect for grasses but not for flowering or fruiting plants!

“All Purpose” or “Balanced” fertilisers may be used throughout the garden but occasionally a specialised plant food may be preferred for specific types of plants, For example, camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias and other exotic flowering shrubs may do better when a fertiliser formulated specially for these plants is used. It may be labelled as being ideal for acid-lovers, which all these shrubs are.

Fruit trees, especially citrus, may have better crops and greener leaves when a fertiliser with boosted iron and magnesium is used, while some vegies will have improved disease resistance when fed with fertilisers containing a high level of calcium.

Step 3

Check the weather before applying any food. Don’t fertilise the garden or the lawn when the daytime temperature is expected to exceed 30 degrees. Even on cool days, avoid feeding in the middle of the day when the sun is at its most intense. Either do it early in the day or wait for late afternoon.

Step 4

Having selected the type and formulation of fertiliser you wish to use in your garden or on your lawn, read the instructions on both front and back labels thoroughly before using. The risk of burning your plants or lawn is minimal when fertilisers are used according to the directions.

Damage generally occurs as a result of not reading labels. If you don’t understand the information or how to use the fertiliser, contact the manufacturer for assistance.

Step 5

If using liquid concentrates or water-soluble fertilisers that require dilution with water, measure out the exact amount required as per the label. Some bottle caps are marked as being 20ml or 50ml measures but if they are not, use a dedicated plastic medicine glass to measure liquids. Instructions usually advise adding a specified amount to a standard (9L) watering can. Fill with water, mix thoroughly and apply over the plants and soil as instructed.

If using ready-to-use liquids (hose-end bottles) click the bottle firmly on to the hose, turn the mains pressure tap on fully and then activate the sprayer as instructed on the label. The bottle should empty as the product is applied – if it doesn’t, there is a delivery problem. Check your hose fittings, the water pressure and whether you have switched the bottle on correctly.

Liquid and water-soluble fertilisers may be used every few weeks, if required.

Step 6

If using granular or pelletised slow/controlled release fertilisers, they are typically applied at rates specified in tablespoons per centimetres of height of plants. For example: 2tbl per 30cm of height. This means that 2 tablespoons of the fertiliser for every 30cm of a plant’s height should be spread over the roots on the dripline, which is an imaginary circle on the soil directly under the outer limit of the leaves or branches. This is where the feeding roots are located.

This is fine for individual shrubs but where plants are in rows, for instance in the vegie patch, the fertiliser should be applied in a band down either side of the row.

Gently fork the fertiliser into the soil so it is lightly covered – don’t disturb the soil deeply because you risk damaging the roots. Water only if the soil is dry – moisture isn’t necessary to activate the release of nutrients.

When feeding large garden beds with an abundance of shrubs or other plants, and application around each on isn’t possible, the fertiliser may be broadcast over the entire bed. Wash granules off plants and on to the soil with the hose.

Step 7

If feeding the lawn, the same principles apply. Again, please remember to read the instructions before starting.

Hose-on fertilisers are simple and quick to apply while more care is needed with slow release lawn foods.

Application rates are critical when using granular fertilisers. If you are too heavy-handed, there is a high risk of burning the grass due to too much nitrogen. If the label recommends using a fertiliser spreader, do so! Make sure it is set correctly and only add as much fertiliser to the hopper as you need to cover your exact lawn area in square metres – borrow the kitchen scales to weigh it out.

The time and effort taken to feed the garden and lawn regularly is well rewarded with healthy, productive plants.

Materials

Liquid or granular fertilisers of choice for garden and/or lawn

Tools

Gardening gloves
Measuring spoon (1 tablespoon recommended)
Plastic measure for liquids in millilitres
Watering can
Hose with standard fitting and trigger nozzle
Hand fork or hoe
Face mask (optional)

Images

How to build a toilet roll holder shelf

MitchellMc — Mon, 16 Nov 2020 02:21:18 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Organise and decorate your bathroom or powder room with this streamlined shelf that not only looks attractive but also makes fantastic use of space.

Inspiration for this creation comes from the extremely popular Toilet roll holder shelf by Bunnings Workshop member . Thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us Rodney.

Steps

Step 1

Start by cutting your 2.4m length of 110mm timber into four pieces at 600mm long using your handsaw or mitre saw. Each of these cuts will be at a 45-degree angle.

Step 2

Lay your pieces out to check that the 45-degree cuts match up to form 90-degree corners. It is likely that there will be some gaps. You can dry clamp the pieces to get an idea of how close your cuts have been. Some slight sanding might be necessary to ensure minimal gaps.

Step 3

Painter’s tape can be used to help form the corners. Lay a piece of tape down and place two of your timber pieces onto it so the edges line up correctly. Apply PVA glue to the inside of the corner. Bring the timbers together to complete the corner. Repeat this on the other three corners.

Step 4

Once all the corners have been brought together, use a pull strap to hold everything securely. After the strap has been tightened, insert timber blocks under it to increase the tension. Additional clamps can also be used to ensure the corners are at a right angle.

Step 5

Pre-drill three holes per corner with a 3mm drill bit. Counter sink the holes deep enough that the head of the screw will be below the surface of the timber. Drive in the screws.

Step 6

Measure across a diagonal between two corners. Take this measurement and transfer it onto the 1.2m length of 90mm timber. Create a 90 degree on both ends of the timber by intersecting two 45-degree cuts. Apply glue to the inside of the corners you measured between and insert the timber.

Step 7

Remove the tape and clamps and then apply putty over all the screws and any gaps from your 45-degree cuts. Wait for this to dry and then sand back. Apply a second skim coat and then repeat the sanding process.

Step 8

Begin brushing you stain onto the timber. Use a rag or paper towel to wipe off excess.

Step 9

Predrill holes with a 3mm drill bit to suit your mounting hangers. Install the hangers with timber screws.

Congratulations. You have now completed your toilet roll holder shelf. Expect plenty of admirers of your handiwork.

Materials

One piece of 2.4m Tasmanian Oak measuring 110 x 19mm
One piece of 1.2m Tasmanian Oak measuring 90 x 12mm
12 timber screws 10 x 38mm
100ml PVA glue
250ml teak brown stain
One set mitre/corner clamps
Two hanging plates
One 4m pull tie down strap
Paint brush
One roll painter’s tape
Timber putty
Sandpaper

Tools

Handsaw or mitre saw
Mitre box
Drill driver
3mm drill bit
Countersink bit
Tape measure

Images

How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Sun, 25 Oct 2020 23:28:25 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

A vertical garden can provide greenery and colour to enliven a drab location and provide plenty of growing space in even very small areas.

Customisable to suit your own garden, this vertical garden can be combined with our raised garden bed made from recycled pallets.

Inspiration for this creation comes from the extremely popular Vertical garden with built-in watering system by experienced Bunnings Workshop member . Thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us.

Steps

Step 1

Start by cutting three lengths of the 90 x 45mm timber at the height you wish you top box to be. Ours were cut 2 meters long to locate the top box just above head height. These will become the vertical posts and they are fixed to the base with three coach screws for each post.

Pre-drill 6mm holes in the posts allowing the coach screws to be positioned at the top, middle and bottom of the garden bed. Ours are at 10cm, 25cm and 40cm above the ground.

Fix the posts to the base with one at each end and one in the middle at 116cm. Make sure they are evenly spaced and that the screws are fixed through the post and into the frame of the garden planter.

Step 2

Clamp a temporary horizontal brace across the three upright posts. Measure the distance between the posts at the top, middle and base. Our garden bed is 233cm long so the distance between the posts is 103cm as the posts are 9cm wide. Adjust the clamps to ensure the posts a perpendicular to each other and are evenly spaced.

Step 3

Take a 90 x 45 piece of timber and cut it to a length that spans across the top of your three posts. Our garden bed is 233cm long. Pre-drill three 3mm holes at either end of this top piece and in the middle (at 116cm for ours). This will be your top horizontal member. Drive treated pine screws through the timber into the top of the three vertical posts.

Step 4

Take the measurement between your posts. We cut three pieces of the 150 x 25mm timber at 103cm. This will be the front, back and base of the planter box. Measure the internal height for end pieces. Cut two 125mm pieces from your 150 x 25mm stock. Place the end pieces in position and clamp on both sides to secure.

Step 5

Pre-drill 3mm holes around the perimeter of the front and back timber boards into the base and sides. You’ll need five holes into the base and three holes into each the sides. Countersink those holes. Drive treated pine screws to secure the boards in place. This process will be repeated on the back and front. In this vertical planter we are using six boxes and this process will be repeated for all six of them.

Step 6

Measure the width of the boxes and mark a centre line. The boxes will be 200mm wide so add a mark at 100mm. On this centre line we will take a scrap piece of 90 x 45mm timber and place it diagonally. Mark both sides of the timber. Step the timber back lining it up with one of the diagonal lines. Again, mark both sides of the timber. This gives us a reference to the angle at which the planter box will sit. Pre-drill three 3mm holes within the marked area.

Step 7

Install box into position between the vertical posts. Check the angle by matching up the marked lines on the side of the box with the vertical posts. Our boxes are space 10cm apart as this gives the plants enough room to grow without hitting the box above. Drive three treated pine screws from inside the box into each post. A second set of hands can be helpful here.

Step 8

Drill several evenly spaced 8mm drainage holes in the bottom of each box. Cut pieces of the builder film larger than what is needed to line the interior of the boxes. Use a staple gun the fix the plastic in place. Trim the plastic back so it is neat and flush with the timber. Cut some holes in the builder film allowing water to drain through it.

Step 9

Cut two lengths of 90 x 45mm timber to act as a central and lower support cross-members. Our cross-members are 233cm long. These timbers should be the same length as your top horizontal piece. Fix them to the vertical posts with treated pine screws. One will be at the mid-position which worked out to be 135cm high and the other just above the base which was 50cm high.

Step 10

Cut your lattice panels height to fit between the mid and lower brace and then cut the panels width to fit between the two upright posts. In our case this was 90cm high and 103cm wide. Fix the lattice to the middle and lower cross-member with treated pine screws. Cut to length your trim timber forming a basic frame around the lattice. These were two pieces 103cm long for the top and bottom and another two at 82cm long for the sides. Fix the frame in position with treated pine screws.

Congratulations. You have now completed your vertical garden planter project.

Materials

200 treated pine screws sized 8-10 x 75mm
Five pieces of 4.8m treated pine measuring 150 x 25mm
Six pieces of 2.4m treated pine measuring 90 x 45mm
Two pieces of 2.4 DAR treated pine measuring 40 x 18mm
Nine galvanised coach screws M8 x 100mm
One roll of builder’s plastic 2 x 10m
One piece of lattice measuring 1800 x 900mm

Tools

Drill driver
6mm drill bit
3mm drill bit
Countersink bit
8mm spanner or adjustable spanner
Circular saw
Tape measure
Clamps
Staple gun

Images

How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Sun, 25 Oct 2020 23:31:44 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

A fantastic raised garden bed for growing vegetables or other plants can be constructed from recycled pallet timber.

This project can be built for a minimal cost and be customised to suit your needs.

Follow our simple step-by-step instructions, and feel free to ask any questions about the build process in the comments section below.

Steps

Step 1

You’ll find pine pallets the easiest to work with for this project. They are readily available and last a significant amount of time out in the weather. It’s best to pick up pallets that are in a reasonable condition, avoiding those with damaged or warped and twisted boards.

After acquiring your pallets, disassemble them by removing the boards from the runner. Select the straightest timber runners as you’ll be using these for your frame. For each frame we will need two runners and two shorter cross pieces. The length of the cross pieces will determine the depth of your planter. The runners should be approximately 120cm from your pallet. The cross pieces will be a runner cut in half at 60cm.

Step 2

After cutting a runner in half to form shorter cross pieces pre-drill the end of the longer runners with a 6mm drill bit in two places. Drive in two of your longer bugle screws into the cross pieces end. Repeat this on all four corners. You’ll need to make two of these frames for the top and bottom.

Step 3

Cut four upright posts at 50cm length. The length of these will determine the height of your planter. From the inside of the frame screw these uprights into the corners with your treated pine screws. From the outside add some additional screws for strength.

Step 4

Begin laying out your boards. Fix the boards to the top and bottom timber on the frame with screws. You should use two screws in the top and two in the bottom of the board.

Step 5

Once the boards are fixed in place, cut them flush with the top of the frame.

Step 6

Select some boards to use as capping pieces. These will be used to finish the top and hold the plastic liner in position. Cut the boards to size.

Step 7

Lay builder’s plastic into the planter. Sandwich the plastic in between the frame and the capping boards. Screw the boards in place. Trim the excess plastic off.

You’ve now completed your garden planter. For a fabulous addition, consider adding an additional vertical garden behind the planter. Our step-by-step guide How to build a vertical garden can show you how.

Materials

Four pallets
25 galvanised bugle screws - size 14g x 100mm
150 treated pine screws – size 10 x 65mm
One roll of builder’s plastic 2 x 5m

Tools

Drill driver
6mm drill bit
Handsaw or circular saw

Images

How to add an extension to a Colorbond fence

ProjectPete — Thu, 01 Oct 2020 00:50:22 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

A fence extension can add welcome privacy for your outdoor spaces, as well as enhanced security for your property.

While the standard install height for Colorbond fencing is 1800mm, for a small investment you can add privacy and security to your boundary fencing with D.I.Y. extensions taking the finished height to 2100mm.

As with any changes to a shared boundary, remember to talk to you neighbour before starting work. It’s the right thing to do and they might even agree to share the cost. It is also wise to contact your local council.

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Steps

Step 1

Measure your existing fencing to determine your material list. Simply count the number of sheets, uprights and rails that you have. That will be the quantity of each of the items needed in the extension kit. To calculate how many plate brackets, just count how many uprights you have, halve it, and add one (for the end).

Note that some sections (from upright to upright) will be shorter or longer than the rest, so be sure to measure the rails and order the lengths required. Keep in mind you may need to cut some to fit.

Step 2

The plate brackets are usually 250mm long so start by marking the halfway point on all of them before hammering them all into place with your claw hammer down to the halfway point you marked. A flat head screwdriver comes in handy to create some space for the plate bracket between the top rail and the upright depending on how closely they’ve been installed.

With the plate brackets in place, slide one 300mm upright over the bracket and place a second one up against it. Now clamp them together and ensure they’re level. Then pop two of the button head screws through both uprights and the plate bracket in a diagonal configuration.

Step 3

With all your upright extensions in place, slide one end of a rail into an upright, then slide the other end in a downward direction to fit into the upright at the other end of the section. This is your new bottom rail. Once it’s in place, pop a screw in each end and one in the middle to attach it to the top rail of the existing fence. Repeat this step for each section.

Step 4

Now pop your first sheet into the bottom rail and slide it into the upright. Ensure you align the profile with the existing fence below. With the first one in place, take note of how and where the sheets on the existing fence overlap each other and continue inserting your remaining sheets, keeping an eye on the alignment of your profile.

For this step, do only one section, then go to Step 5.

Step 5

With a section of sheets in place, grab another rail and insert one end into the upright (like you did in Step 4). Slowly and carefully wriggle it into place over the sheets dealing with small parts at a time. Wriggling the rail back and forth, essentially following the wavy profile of the sheets, will help get it in place.

Once it’s in place, check it’s level then screw a hex head through the uprights and into the rail (at the top) to hold it in place. Do the same on the other side of the upright (neighbour’s side). Repeat for the bottom of the uprights. Note that it’s not necessary to do the bottom of the upright on neighbour’s side.

Repeat Step 4 and 5 until all sections are complete. You have now finished your Colorbond fence extensions. Now is the perfect time to clean off any cobwebs and dirt and treat it all with pest spray.

Step 6

You might like to consider cladding your fence to add sophistication and style to your backyard. There are many options to consider, from quality fibre cement products from James Hardie through to pre-made and bespoke timber screening. Whichever way you go, you’re going to need to install a H3 treated pine frame to attach your cladding to and the type of framing required will depend on your chosen cladding.

An already braced premade timber panel will likely only require some 50 x 25mm treated pine fixed to the top and bottom rails with 14g x 50mm Metal Teks. Then use either colour-matched timber screws or trim head screws to fix the panels to the treated pine frame.

Fibre cement would require a more complex 70x35mm treated pine frame to be attached to the top and bottom rails along with vertical lengths at certain points (see installation guides) and noggins to ensure a strong foundation.

If you need a hand with your fence cladding project, just let us know by commenting below. Good luck and please share your project with the community.

Materials

Colorbond fence extension kit, including:
- 300mm sheets
- 300mm uprights
- Plate brackets
- Rails
- 20mm self-tapping metal screws
- 16mm hex head self-tapping metal screws (to match your Colorbond colour)

Tools

Tape measure
Spirit level (ideally 2100mm)
Pencil or marker
Clamps which open at least 150mm
Claw hammer
Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer
Large flat head screwdriver
Drill – An impact driver makes the job easier
Ladder (tall enough for you to safely reach a drilling point of 2100mm)
Angle grinder or hacksaw with a steel blade
Personal protective equipment

Images

How to prune citrus trees

Noelle — Thu, 17 Sep 2020 05:04:18 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Citrus trees such as lemons, limes, oranges, cumquats and grapefruit are evergreen fruit trees. They don’t lose their leaves in winter like many other fruits, so pruning them can be challenging. Some also have thorns, making them even more difficult.

They don’t need a harsh cut-back every year like their deciduous counterparts. In fact, if you prune them too hard or too often, they are inclined to put all their energy into replacing leaves and branches instead of into flowers and fruit.

The aim is to trim rather than prune to maintain a tidy shape and to encourage just enough new growth to produce abundant flowers and bumper crops. That said, an old lemon tree well past its prime can be rejuvenated by cutting it back to just the trunk and major branches. It will re-shoot prolifically and, in a few years, develop a complete new framework that will crop well for another few decades.

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Steps

Step 1

Make sure all blades and saws are sharp so they cut cleanly. Tearing of stems and bark may allow diseases to take hold. Dip tools in disinfectant before you start cutting to remove traces of sap and possible diseases, then dry and clean them.

Step 2

Citrus trees are susceptible to attack by a small wasp that lays its eggs under the bark of new growth. As a defence mechanism, a tree will develop “galls” (scar tissue) around the affected areas. Galls encapsulate the eggs, followed by the larvae which will eventually develop into new wasps that fly off. Citrus galls are unsightly and weaken trees. The best cure is to eliminate the eggs and larvae.

Until recently, cutting off galls in Winter before wasps emerged in early spring was the recommended treatment but pruning at this time is not appropriate – new growth can be burned off by cold weather. Today, the process is to “scalp” new galls, exposing the eggs and larvae inside and so killing them before they hatch. Cutting galls open can be done with a sharp knife or a potato peeler.

Old galls covered in holes can be cut off completely in spring. The wasps have emerged and flown off. It’s too late for “scalping” at this stage.

Step 3

Once the galls have been treated, it’s time to look at the rest of the tree. Pruning should not be done until the weather has warmed in spring and the likelihood of frosts, which could burn soft new shoots, has passed.

The main aim of any pruning is to encourage new growth but, in the case of citrus, this should not be at the expense of flowering and fruiting. A light touch is appropriate in general.

Where shoots are long and have developed a downward droop due to the weight of fruit, they can be trimmed back. Likewise shoots heading for the sky can be shortened so the fruits they bear can be harvested easily. Cut cleanly to avoid tearing the bark.

Citrus trees that have been grafted should have all shoots growing from below the graft union removed – these are vigorous rootstock growths that draw nutrients and moisture away from the variety growing on top.

Step 4

A well grown citrus tree should have an overall rounded habit with well-spaced branches that allow light to penetrate into the centre of the tree. Not quite as well clipped as a topiary but neat nonetheless. A program of renewal pruning to replace old branches over a period of years is key to a tree living and cropping well for many decades.

Step 5

Continuing with tip pruning over the warmer months will help keep your citrus trees in shape.

Don’t be concerned if your trees drop lots of immature fruits shortly after flowering – the tree is self-managing the crop it can ripen without self-destructing.

Step 6

Be vigilant and always watch for pests like scale on your citrus trees. They are sap-suckers and will affect overall health and vigour if not controlled. An application of horticultural or white oil after pruning in early spring and again in late summer will aid in controlling them.

Materials

Diluted household disinfectant (1 cap or 30 ml in 500ml of water)

Tools

Gardening gloves
Secateurs
Sharp grafting knife or craft knife or potato peeler
Pruning saw
Face mask (optional)

Images

How to build a floating planter box

ProjectPete — Fri, 11 Sep 2020 01:59:38 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

For a stylish way to bring new life to a room, build a floating planter box to showcase some beloved plants.

Using basic materials and simple woodworking skills, you can achieve this project in a day and have something to admire for years to come.

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Steps

Step 1

Measure your wall space and decide what sized planter box you would like. Use the formula below to determine the amount of timber required. This is based on using 140x19mm dressed pine.

Length of front - this is the one measurement you need to know to begin.
Length of back = front minus 38mm.
Length of base = same as back.
Length of sides = 140 + 38mm = 178mm.

Step 2

Cut your material to the required lengths which you’ve calculated in Step 1 and follow the guidance on cut angles below.

Front – The two short ends should be mitre cut at 45 degrees.
Back and base – These consist of 90-degree cuts on both ends.
Sides – One end (the front end) is to be cut at 45 degrees while the other end (the back) is 90 degrees. The reason for varied cut angles is to reduce the number of visible joins for a seamless finish.

Step 3

Once you’ve done the cuts, tidy up the cut ends with some 400 grit sandpaper, then lay the timber out and ensure a snug fit. Now we are going to move onto gluing it all together.

Step 4

To glue the two mitre joins at the front of your box you can either use corner clamps or a little trick with some tape as you can see in the photos below.

Once your mitre joins have dried as per the instructions on your chosen glue, proceed to gluing the rest of the box together. Pop the base on, then the back.

If you have a Brad nailer, it makes finishing quicker as you can avoid some clamping. To avoid touching up small nail holes, just use nails on the back where they won’t be seen anyway.

Step 5

Clean off any excess glue that’s oozed out of the joins then drill at least two holes in the back panel of your box to allow fixing to the wall with the sleeve anchors. Place it on the wall where you wish to hang it, level it with your spirit level and mark the points to drill into the wall. Note: if you are fixing to a timber wall you need the appropriate fixings and to locate the studs.

Step 6

Fill any gaps or joins that need filling and sand any areas that need it before finishing it in a style that matches your home décor. You can oil it, stain it or even paint it. It’s really up to you.

Note: don’t waste time oiling/painting the inside of the box as it’ll be lined with black plastic in the next step. Just go about 15mm down from the top on the inside for a clean finish.

Drill the holes in the wall and insert the sleeve anchors while you wait for the box to dry.

Step 7

Cut the black plastic to suit the shape of the inside of your box ensuring you overlap pieces by about 15mm. Apply silicone to the inside of the box to hold the black plastic in place. Apply silicone to where the plastic overlaps so you have a waterproof seal (preventing the moisture from the soil coming into contact with the timber box). Make small holes in the plastic where the drilled holes are.

Step 8

With the holes drilled in the wall, place your planter box onto the sleeve anchors and fasten it in place with your socket set or spanner.

Step 9

Fill the box with a quality soil and your favourite plants.

Next time try using bamboo cladding for a different effect. You can be creative with the materials you use and the way you finish the box. Enjoy!

Materials

Personal protective equipment
30mm painters tape
Quality PVA wood glue
Dressed pine (based on desired size) or other timber
400 grit sandpaper
Timber filler to match your material
Black garden/builders plastic
Clear roof and gutter silicone
2-4x 10x75mm hex head sleeve anchors (for fixing to brick wall)
25mm C1 18 gauge Brad nails (optional)

Tools

Ruler
Tape measure
Spirit level
Pencil or sharp texta
Mitre saw
Clamps and corner clamps
Hammer drill
10mm timber drill bit
10mm masonry drill bit
Socket set or adjustable spanner
Caulking gun
Cloth
Stud finder (for timber frame houses)
Brad nailer (optional)

Images

How to prune a fruit tree

Noelle — Wed, 05 Aug 2020 04:01:14 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

The main objective in pruning fruit trees is to encourage flowering and fruiting. Different types of fruits require differing techniques. Some flower and fruit on last season’s laterals (shoots) while others bear their crops on permanent or semi-permanent "spurs". Knowing how the trees you’re growing produce their crops is key to how they should be pruned.

Complete books have been written on fruit tree pruning – it can be quite a complex topic. But don’t let that put you off picking up the secateurs because, over a period of years, unpruned trees will produce fewer and fewer flowers and fruit.

A few simple tips will get you started and keep your trees growing and flowering well, so you can enjoy fresh fruits direct from the garden.

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Steps

Step 1

Fruit trees are susceptible to a range of diseases that can be spread from tree-to-tree and also by airborne spores that can enter through damaged or torn bark and wood.

Secateurs, loppers and pruning saw must be sharp, so they cut cleanly, and free of debris. Dip the blades in disinfectant or use a disinfectant wipe before you start each plant to remove traces of sap.

Step 2

Learn by observation how each of your trees produces its flowers and fruits. The following is a guide:

Apples and pears – most varieties flower and fruit on short ‘spurs’ of two-year-old wood or older (spur-bearing). Some may also crop on the tips of short lateral growths as well as spurs (tip bearing).
Peaches and nectarines - both flower and fruit on one-year-old wood. Shorten last year’s laterals to encourage new laterals in the following Spring. Cut to a triple that includes flower and leaf buds.
Apricots – fruits are produced on one-year-old branches and semi-permanent sprigs. Flower buds are usually in clusters that will include at least one leaf bud.
Plums – while they will fruit on year-old wood, most fruit is produced on two-year-old wood and permanent spurs.
Cherries – fruits are usually produced on one-year-old wood and also on tips of fruiting spurs. Established trees need only light maintenance pruning to remove damaged or crossing branches.
Almonds – crops are produced on semi-permanent spurs and short shoots, sometimes known as sprigs.
Less common but increasingly popular fruit and nut trees like quince, mulberry, persimmon, fig, walnut and chestnut need little pruning once the basic framework has been formed. Occasional shortening of laterals to encourage new growth is recommended.

In the first couple of years after planting, prune to develop the basic frame of the tree. After the second or third season, change your method to promotion of fruiting wood.

Step 3

Most pruning is done in Winter while trees are dormant. However, apricots should be pruned in late Autumn. They are susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases. Prune on a sunny or windy day so the cuts will dry and seal over quickly, minimising the risk of infection.

For all your fruit tree pruning, check each tree for diseased or mummified fruits, damaged or broken branches and spindly laterals that are not likely to be useful in the future. Remove them all cleanly. Collect diseased fruits and put them into the household rubbish. If left on the ground or composted, there is a risk of fungal spores and bacteria spreading infection.

Step 4

When you are familiar with where your trees will produce flowers – lateral buds, terminal buds or spurs – you can prune accordingly. Always cut cleanly just above a bud or spur and slope the cut away from the bud or spur.

There are no hard and fast rules, although there are basic guidelines you should follow. There is plenty of good information available in books and on the web. Just make sure to try to choose local sources of information.

One point to keep in mind: Don’t cut back to old wood. Always cut to live buds or spurs. Follow that tip and the worst you can do is cut off potential fruiting wood, reducing next season’s crop.

While Winter (when trees are dormant) is the preferred pruning time for most fruits (except apricots) if you are really at a loss as to where fruits will grow, then delay pruning until your trees are in flower.

Step 5

When you think you have finished each tree, stand back and run a critical eye over it. If it looks OK and you’re happy then don’t prune any more. If there is still weak or spindly growth, laterals crossing one another and tall laterals heading for the sky, then make the necessary adjustments.

Gather up all the prunings from under trees and either mulch them up and add them to the compost or put them in the green waste bin for recycling.

Clean your tools and store them out of the weather until they are next needed.

Materials

Container of diluted household disinfectant (1 cap or 30 ml approx in 500ml of water) OR disinfectant wipes

Tools

Gardening gloves
Secateurs (by-pass blades rather than anvil style, for cleaner cuts)
Pruning saw
Loppers (for larger branches only)

Images

How to grow your own vegan food

Noelle — Wed, 22 Jul 2020 04:59:46 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

It’s becoming increasingly popular to embrace a vegan diet. Vegans eat an entirely plant-based diet and avoid any animal products or by-products.

Vegan-friendly gardening utilises plant-based composts, seaweed extracts, rock minerals and man-made fertilisers as nutrient sources for healthy plant growth. This should not be confused with organic gardening, which is at the opposite end of the horticultural spectrum and relies on plant, animal and fish by-products (excluding all man-made fertilisers and soil improvers).

Organic fruit, vegetables and herbs are reasonably easy to find in most markets and retailers. However, you will rarely see produce marked as “vegan-friendly”. This guide shows you how you can grow your own.

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Steps

Step 1

Starting a vegan-friendly vegie patch or home orchard from scratch? If you know animal-based fertilisers or soil improvers have been used on the property previously, you may prefer to grow in pots, tubs or new raised beds or vegie boxes for a couple of years until residues have disappeared. Use a premium quality potting mix free from animal by-products.

Garden soil that hasn’t been used for food production in the past three or four years should be fine. It’s safe to assume there will be no animal or fish by-products present.

Step 2

In the garden, good preparation is the key to success. Dig the plot over to a depth of at least 300mm. Break up any large clumps and remove rocks and debris. Add gypsum to help break up heavy clay and/or lime to sweeten very acidic soils (pH lower than 4.5) allowing watering or rain to wash them into the soil.

Spread a 100mm layer of plant-based compost over the surface and fork it in thoroughly before adding a complete fertiliser and rock minerals.

Leave the soil to stabilise for a couple of weeks, removing weeds by hand as they appear. Keep it moist (but not wet) by watering if it doesn’t rain.

Step 3

Sow seeds or plant seedlings into either your pots, vegie box or a prepared vegie patch. Water in seedlings with a weak seaweed solution to help them overcome transplant shock.

Protect your plants from snails and slugs by spreading spent coffee grounds or copper nails around young plants. These pests will avoid direct contact with either without being harmed.

Step 4

Strong, healthy plants are able to resist pests better than those struggling to find nutrients.

When seedlings are about 200ml tall, give them a boost with a liquid fertiliser that’s easily taken up the roots. Repeat every 3-4 weeks to keep them growing strongly, until they’re ready to harvest.

Keep weeds down by hoeing, hand pulling and mulching.

Some caterpillars and flying pests can wreak havoc in a vegie and herb garden if they are not controlled or kept at bay. Netting the garden, box or pots will prevent larger flying pests from laying eggs on or chewing your plants. The mesh should be fine enough to exclude them while still allowing pollinating insects through. You may need to remove the netting when your crops begin to flower so pollinators have access.

Traditional pest control methods, including sticky traps, bacterial insecticides and horticultural oils are not vegan-friendly because they kill insects and molluscs.

Step 5

Be prepared for highs and lows. It is inevitable you may lose some crops in your first couple of seasons to pests and possibly diseases. After harvesting and enjoying your first few crops, you should have built a small but ever-expanding knowledge bank that will help you modify your growing program to achieve the best possible outcomes from your vegan-friendly garden.

Materials

Hand-made and/or plant-based compost
Rock minerals
Seaweed plant and soil tonics
Premium quality potting mixes *
Premium soil improvers *
Gypsum
Garden lime
Complete, all purpose or specialised fertilisers *

* Always read labels on products carefully. Check the lists of ingredients and ingredient icons for mention of animal/fish by-products. Do not include mushroom compost in a vegan-friendly garden unless the packaging states free of animal by-products including stable manure.

Tools

Gardening gloves
Spade
Fork
Soil rake
Hoe
Hand trowel and fork
Wheelbarrow
Soil sieve
Watering can or hose with trigger nozzle

Images

How to build a low-level deck

Adam_W — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 02:33:08 GMT

How to prune roses

Noelle — Wed, 08 Jul 2020 05:24:32 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Roses flower on new shoots and never on old wood. Pruning in winter while roses are dormant encourages abundant new growth when the weather warms in spring. The flush of shoots will result in an abundance of blooms. Having healthy, well-shaped, bushy plants is also important.

Pruning when plants have lost their leaves makes it easy to see the basic shape or frame of each plant.

In warmer regions, roses don't go through true dormancy. They will drop most of their leaves at the end of the "wet season" (autumn) but then go on to produce new shoots fairly quickly. It’s best to prune when the leaves have dropped although plants will respond well at almost any time of the year.

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Steps

Step 1

Make sure your secateurs, loppers and pruning saw are sharp so they cut cleanly. Tearing of stems and bark may allow diseases to take hold. Dip the blades in disinfectant before you start each plant to remove traces of sap and possible diseases, then dry and clean them.

Step 2

Stand back and assess the rose you are about to prune. Look at its overall height and shape. Consider how much growth it produced last season and how many flowers it had. Also assess the health of its main frame (older branches). Take all factors into consideration when deciding how you should prune it to reinvigorate it.

The rose bush pictured is a 20-year-old Apricot Nectar, a very vigorous and free flowering floribunda variety. It grows at least 1.5 metres tall each year and responds well to quite severe pruning. The base of the plant is quite woody but the branches growing from it are no more than two or three years old.

Step 3

Start by cutting out old, diseased and damaged branches as close to the main trunk as possible. Then remove spindly twigs and branches that are congesting the centre of the bush and crossing over or rubbing against one another. Cut branches off cleanly. Don’t leave stubs as these will die back and could be entry points for diseases.

Remove all stems growing from the rootstock, below the graft union.

Step 4

Reduce last season's healthy branches by about a third, cutting cleanly just above an outward-pointing bud or node. The shoot from that bud will then grow outwards, away from the centre of the plant. The objective is to encourage as much new growth as possible close to the main frame of the bush but leaving the centre of the bush open.

Any tall “watershoots” – the soft and vigorous stems that grow from close to the base of the plant - are best left alone apart from trimming off the faded flowers at the top. They will mature over the following season to replace older branches that are past their best.

Step 5

When you think you have finished, stand back and look critically at the bush as a whole. Further cutting may be needed if it is obviously lop-sided or there is still quite a lot of old wood present. Expert pruners have a good motto: “If in doubt, cut it out”. It works most of the time!

Step 6

Collect up and dispose of the prunings and leaves into the household rubbish. Do not add them to the compost bin as they could harbour diseases like blackspot or mildews or pests like scale and aphids.

Step 7

During peak flowering times over spring, summer and autumn, encourage more growth and flowers by snipping off spent flowers (known as dead-heading). Most roses will have at least two flushes of blooms – in spring and autumn – while others are "recurrent", flowering continuously for months at a time.

Materials

Household disinfectant (dilute 1 cap or 30 ml to around 500ml of water)

Tools

Gardening gloves
Secateurs (by-pass blades rather than anvil style for cleaner cuts)
Pruning saw
Loppers

Images

How to create an organic garden

Noelle — Wed, 10 Jun 2020 01:10:52 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

“Organic” is one of the most overused and misused words in gardening. It is interpreted as meaning to garden without using man-made or artificial chemicals and pesticides. In practice, it means complying with a prescribed system leading to certified 100% organic production – not something applicable to home gardeners. “Natural gardening” might be a more appropriate description in the domestic garden.

For growing fruit, vegetables, herbs and flowers at home, using certified 100% organic products is not necessary. If you want to garden without chemicals, all you need to do is ensure everything you add or apply comes from natural sources. Always read product labels to check.

Use this guide to help you grow natural produce in your garden, and don't hesitate to ask the community if you need a hand.

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Steps

Step 1

Before you start, it is relevant to know how your plot has been used in the past. It takes three or four years to reduce residues in soils where man-made fertilisers and pesticides have been used. If the history is unknown, growing in pots, tubs or raised vegie boxes filled with guaranteed natural or organic potting mix may be the best option during this period. As always, check the labels for ingredients.

Growing in pots may not be practical long term. Get your natural patch going by sowing a green manure crop and then dig it back into the soil before it flowers. Lupins, peas or other legumes and oats are all good options. They take up fertiliser residues from the soil and put back natural nutrients when turned into the soil.

Step 2

Good soil preparation is the key to successful gardening. Dig the plot over to a depth of at least 300mm. Break up any large clumps, remove rocks and debris and ensure any cover crop is well buried. Rake to even out the surface. Add gypsum to help break up heavy clay and/or lime to sweeten very acidic soils (pH lower than 4.5). Allow watering or rain to wash them into the soil.

Spread a layer of compost or manure and fork it in thoroughly before adding fertiliser and rock minerals. Some of the more complex organic fertilisers include minerals, bio stimulants and seaweed extracts.

Leave the soil to stabilise for a couple of weeks before planting. Remove weeds by hand and water to keep soil moist if it doesn’t rain.

Step 3

Sow seeds or plant seedlings or young plants. Note that you probably won’t be able to source “organic” seeds, seedlings or plants. It is how that you grow them hat’s important in the natural garden.

Water in with a half strength seaweed solution – one without added wetting agent and starter fertiliser is best.

To keep snails and slugs at bay, spread spent coffee grounds around young plants. Coffee machine rinse water can also be used. Slugs in particular are deterred by caffeinated soil. Crushed egg shells are also effective, as is anything made from copper such as copper nails.

Step 4

Strong, healthy plants are better able to resist pests. A liquid fertiliser (home-made or off the shelf) applied every two or three weeks will help maintain vigour.

To combat pests, use products such as eco Oil, Neem, pyrethrum, derris dust or a home-made remedy like garlic spray. Yellow sticky traps are also effective. There’s an abundance of information online about natural pest control, although some methods are more reliable than others.

Keep weeds down by hoeing, hand pulling and mulching.

Step 5

Repeat previous steps! Rotate your crops, allowing one bed to rest, or grow a green manure crop each winter. Maintain fertility with manures, composts, rock minerals and the occasional application of lime between crops.

Materials

The following list is of natural components of “organic” gardening:

Green manure crop seeds such as lupins, lucerne, and oats
Compost – can be homemade or bought
Weathered or aged stable, animal and poultry manures (Do not use fresh manures as they contain high urea levels that can burn plants and avoid manures from livestock fed with pellets known to contain veterinary medicines)
Natural fertilisers – blood and bone, bone meal, fish emulsion
Soil tonics – seaweed, bio stimulants (beneficial microflora)
Rock minerals
Gypsum
Garden lime

Tools

Spade
Fork
Rake
Hoe
Hand trowel
Hand fork
Wheelbarrow
Soil sieve
Watering can or hose with a trigger nozzle
Gardening gloves
Face mask (optional)

Images

How to build a pallet cubby

MitchellMc — Mon, 19 Oct 2020 03:13:35 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

You can create an awesome cubby house for your kids using recycled pallet timber.

This cubby has an additional shop and can be built over a few weekends for a minimal cost. And you can feel great in the knowledge that you’ve created something special for your kids while helping to save the planet by recycling pallets otherwise destined for landfill.

Steps

Step 1

Pallets can be sourced from many different locations. It is best to use unstamped pallets or those with a HT (heat treated) stamp to avoid risk of exposure to chemicals. Many Bunnings locations offer free pallets and they are perfect for this project.

You can use a pinch bar to remove the individual boards from the pallet, but using a cordless reciprocating saw slicing between the boards and beams and cutting the nails is an efficient option. This method stops a lot of wastage from broken boards which will inevitably happen when using a pinch bar. It also means you don’t need to hammer out many nails, as once the nails are cut the boards are ready to use.

After you have a quantity of boards you might like to grade them depending on how straight they are, the extent of any damage, and where you’ll use them in the project. You’ll be using the best boards for the floors so it is nice and flat. Any damaged boards can be cut down for use on the walls and around the windows.

Step 2

The base of the cubby will be a full-sized pallet. Select a pallet with a solid construction as the floor.

Step 3

Time to fix the upright posts. Remove the second board and second last board from the pallet with a pinch bar. For the upright posts we will be using 4 spare runners from a disassembled pallet. Take the four runners and mark the height of the base pallet’s runner on them. Countersink and pre-drill holes suitable for 75mm coach screws in the side of these vertical posts. Cut the tops at a 45-degree angle to suit a pitched roof before installing.

Step 4

We now move onto laying the floorboards. Cut and pre-drill four blocks to support the first and last board in the corners with 75mm screws. Begin laying new boards across the length of the pallet fixed with 50mm screws. As you progress along the pallet you will need to remove the old boards and replace them with new boards butted up against the previous one. A small infill piece can be used to finish off next to the post.

Step 5

Installing beams will give the frame rigidity. Take measurements between uprights and cut spare runners to suit width. Pre-drill horizontal runners and join uprights together with 75mm screws on all four sides. This will secure our posts together.

Step 6

For the pitched roof supports, take four spare runners and cut one end of them at a 45-degree angle. Pre-drill them and screw the angled pieces together with 50mm screws. Install on the upright posts as the roof supports with 75mm screws.

Step 7

Take three spare boards and cut to size for divisions where doors and windows will be placed. Pre-drill and screw into position with 50mm screws. Here I have created a door plus a window on the front and a door on the side. The door on the side will be used to access the shop section of the cubby.

Step 8

Begin fixing boards to the walls. A brad nail gun will be helpful in holding the boards in place until they are permanently screwed in position with 50mm screws. Start at the base and work your way to the top of the walls. Take a saw and cut the overhanging timber boards flush with uprights.

Step 9

Now onto the roof. Start placing and fixing the roof boards into position with 50mm screws or a brad nail gun. If the cubby is going to be in the weather, a sheet of builders underlay plastic can be added before placing the boards. Finish off the left-hand side of the roof line by cutting off the roof support then add the last finishing board.

Step 10

To finish the roof, infill boards at the front and rear underneath the cubby roofline using 50mm screws or a brad nail gun. You will need to cut the tops at a 45-degree angle to suit the roof line.

Now you have completed the cubby portion of the project.

Step 11

Time to build the shop floor, which will be made from three quarters of a full-size pallet. Take a full-sized pallet and with a saw cut off a quarter of it by sawing through the runners.

For the upright posts, we will be using four spare runners from a disassembled pallet. Take four runners, pre-drilling mounting holes in them as these will be the upright posts. Remove the first board and install the uprights in all four corners with 75mm screws. Once the uprights are in place, add supports for the first and last board. Continue to install floorboards in the same fashion as the cubby floor.

Step 12

For the shop roof beams, measure the distance between the upright posts. Cut four boards to suit the length and pre-drill holes in the ends. Install them as horizontal supports beams on all four sides with 75mm screws.

Step 13

A shop bench is a fun and practical addition. Measure the height at which you would like the shop shelf to sit. Cut and pre-dill three runners to a suitable length to fit between upright posts and then install them into position with 75mm screws.

Take spare boards and cut to length to suit shop counters. Fix them into the horizontal beams with 75mm screws.

To finish the corner of the counters, take a spare piece of board and screw it into the void between the shelves with 100mm screws. Cut a radius with a jigsaw on this infill piece.

Step 14

Time for the shop’s wall panelling. Cut to length, pre-drill and install three beams with 75mm screws to make up the bottom surround. This will be used to fix the boards to for the wall panelling. You can now start fixing the boards around the outside.

Step 15

Begin the shop’s skillion roof by cutting to length and fixing a beam to the high side closest to the cubby with 75mm screws. Lay your roof boards across the roof fixing them to the beams either side with 50mm screws or a brad nail gun. Once they are laid, mark a straight edge and cut to length.

Step 16

You’re now the proud owner of a pallet cubby house with shopfront. You might choose to paint the cubby or even build additional elements like fruit and flower boxes, decorative cut-outs and doors. You could also decorate with curtains and other accessories. Adding the finishing touches is really up to your tastes and perhaps a good opportunity for your children to contribute some ideas to really make it their own.

Materials

Approximately 12 pine pallets
50mm brad nails
Treated pine screws sizes 10-8 x 50mm, 10-8 x 75mm, and 10-8 x 100mm
16 x 75mm coach screws

Tools

Cordless drill driver
Circular saw or Compound mitre saw
Jigsaw or handsaw
Pinch bar
Hammer
Brad nail gun (optional)
Cordless reciprocating saw (optional)

Images

How to plant a tree, shrub or a rose

Noelle — Wed, 20 May 2020 05:06:05 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Transferring a young tree, shrub or rose into the garden sounds simple enough. But sometimes the plant will fail to thrive because it wasn’t planted correctly. Follow our simple guide to make sure your plant has every chance to grow.

Evergreen plants with leaves all year round are grown and sold in pots throughout the year. They are best planted in spring or autumn when the soil is warm and the weather mild. Deciduous plants that lose their leaves in autumn may be sold in pots while in leaf, but are also sold “bare-rooted” in winter. Our guide covers both types of plants.

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Steps

Step 1

Choose a planting site, then dig the soil over well to a depth of about 400mm (or deeper depending on the size of the plant). Make sure to break up large lumps and remove weeds and other debris. The planting hole should be at least twice the diameter of the pot or root system to encourage the roots to grow out into surrounding soil as quickly as possible.

If the soil is particularly heavy or sandy, compost may be mixed through the backfill to improve it. A new plant will generally settle in and grow away better when the “native soil” on its own is used, otherwise new roots may simply circle round in the improved soil.

Don’t be tempted to use an auger or post-hole digger to dig a hole the same size as the pot or root ball and just drop the plant in (as is frequently seen on TV garden makeover shows). The roots may never grow beyond the smooth walls of a hole formed in this way.

Step 2

Add a tablespoon or two of slow or controlled release fertiliser into the base of the prepared planting hole and cover it with a little soil so the plant will be sitting at the correct depth. Check this by placing the pot into the hole so the top of the potting mix is at soil level or by observing the soil level mark on the stem of the bare-root plant.

For a potted plant, now move on to Step 3. for a bare-root plant, go to Step 4.

Step 3

Carefully remove the plant from the pot keeping as much potting mix around the roots as possible. “Teasing out” the roots is not necessary unless the plant is completely pot-bound, in which case raking down the outside of the roots with secateurs may help roots grow out into the soil.

Place the plant in the hole and again check that the top of the potting mix will be at the same level as the surrounding soil. Backfill with soil previously removed.

Don’t trample the soil, but firm it down and then water in with a weak seaweed solution. If the new plant will need staking, now is the best time to hammer one in even if it won’t be needed for some time. Adding a stake when a plant is established can damage the roots. Now move to Step 5.

Step 4

This step is for bare rooted plants only.

Remove the wrapping and packing materials from around the roots of your bare-root plant and dip them in a bucket of fresh water or weak seaweed solution. Trim off any damaged or broken roots.

Add a couple of tablespoons of slow or controlled release fertiliser into the base of the planting hole. Add soil to form a mound in the base of the planting hole. Sit the plant on top of it and arrange its roots down and out from the trunk. Add or remove soil from the mound so the nursery soil mark on the main stem is at the same level as the surrounding soil.

Carefully back fill with soil, working it in and around the roots to eliminate any air pockets. Water in with a weak seaweed solution. If a stake may be needed in the future, hammer it in now.

Step 5

Planting is complete.

In spring or autumn, new plants should be kept moist but not wet for the first few weeks until they have settled in. Bare-root plants put in over winter should not need watering again until growth buds start to swell later in the season.

Add a mulch to keep the weeds down and ensure your plant has every chance to thrive.

Materials

Tree, shrub or rose in a pot or bare-rooted
Controlled or slow-release fertiliser
Liquid seaweed concentrate
Garden stake
Mulch

Tools

Spade
Trowel
Watering can
Hammer
Gardening gloves
Face mask (optional)

Images

How to give your garden a makeover

Adam_W — Thu, 14 May 2020 03:03:59 GMT

Now that you have finished planning your dream garden, it’s time to get on the tools and transform your space.

Here’s a simple guide to ensuring your garden makeover is a big success.

Before you start

The awful realisation that you can’t proceed because you’ve forgotten something can be very frustrating. Before you break ground, it’s wise to create a tools and materials checklist. Write down everything you need and make sure everything is ready.

Keep it achievable

One of the most common reasons a project is left unfinished is overreach: too much is attempted in one go. Planning is obviously crucial, but you also need to be flexible and adapt as your project progresses. Some things may run smoothly and be finished faster, others can take longer than expected.

Break your big overarching makeover project into bite-sized chunks that can be completed in as short a timeframe as possible. Most importantly, finish one task before progressing onto another. Jumping from one task to another just leads to project fatigue and a yard filled with half-finished projects.

Sensible sequences

As much as you may want to plant that screening and privacy hedge first, it’s not wise if you have to walk through it to access the next stage of your makeover. Always take into account all stages of your project before you commit to starting on a task.

Remember that foundation work – essentials like fixing drainage problems and building structures like retaining walls - should always take precedence and be completed first.

Easy access and avoiding clutter

It is absolutely critical that you have clear, safe and easy access to your work site. Ensure at least a couple of metres around the area so you can keep your project running smoothly and safely.

If trucks need to be backed in, make sure they can do so easily and materials can be dropped as close to where they are needed as is practical. If materials are coming in by hand or wheelbarrow, make sure you can get an easy, unobstructed run through.

A simple mistake made by professionals and rookies alike is forgetting where they want to be working next. Materials, either new deliveries or waste from an excavation, are stockpiled in a place where they have to be moved again. Aim to avoid double-handling wherever possible.

Tools

It doesn’t matter if you are simply adding a new garden bed or undertaking a mammoth makeover, you’ll need the right tools. Getting into these projects is a great excuse to be buying loads of lovely new tools and when selected wisely they can be an asset for years to come.

One of the best investments is spades and shovels as they are such multi-use tools. Look at a mix of long and short-handled. Make sure you select the right tool for the job. Some shovels are designed entirely for shifting materials and some spades are just for light garden work. Take the time to assess the options.

Avoid buying tools that only have a singular purpose unless a particular task cannot be properly completed with them. An exception might include a rubber mallet for paving – it’s essential.

Consider hiring tools and equipment to save money, time and make your job a lot easier and less stressful.

Saving money

Reusing materials on-site can be a great way to save money, whether its transplanting and dividing plants or putting excavated soil to use. There are plenty of other smart ways to save, too.

Estimate forward with materials to get bulk deliveries. For example, the project you are finishing this weekend might need 2 cubic metres of soil but next weekend you need another 3. If you have the space for bulk materials, get it all delivered at once as this can save in delivery fees. You might also be able to get multiple products delivered at once.

Choosing plants

Plants are one of the most important (and potentially most expensive) parts of your garden makeover. Most selections are made according to flower and foliage colour and plant form, but there are other important considerations.

Make sure you choose the right plant for the right location. Take the time to understand both the conditions your garden offers and the plants you are looking to use. There’s an old gardener’s saying: “Just because you love it doesn’t mean you can grow it.” In other words, you can’t force a plant to perform well in the wrong spot.

Some plants are tough and will grow in just about any soil you stick them in. Others are much more particular. Make sure your soil suits your chosen plants. And remember that you can amend your soil. For example, for natives that prefer free-draining soil, you can blend some coarse, washed river sand.

Ongoing maintenance

Ask yourself what type of gardener you are. Do you want a garden that all-but looks after itself or are you someone that likes getting out there every weekend pruning and trimming? Maintenance requirements are an important element of plant selection and use.

There are always lower maintenance ways to achieve the look you want, so make sure you familiarise yourself with the demands of the plants you choose and make sure they suit your lifestyle. The three big ones to keep in mind are feeding, watering and pruning.

Make sure you understand the growth habits of the plants you choose. You do not want to plant something that is going to be a problem down the track because of its size.

Professional help

Always be honest about your limitations and know when you will need to call in the tradies to assist with some of your project. To have a professional do the job for you will be faster and cheaper than calling them in to fix something you didn’t get right.

And always be aware of any council or other regulations which may impact what you are allowed to do and how you do it. Just because you are doing it yourself doesn’t mean you don’t have to stick to building code specifications or council rules.

Now you can enjoy the makeover and the satisfaction of a job well done. If you follow these tips then I’m sure you will find your project will run faster and more smoothly. And if you need a hand with anything, please don’t hesitate to ask.

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Master the maths

Remember calculating areas and volumes in high school maths? It actually comes in handy. These simple formulas will help you to get your quantities right to avoid over or underestimating on bulk materials.

There are two simple formulas you need to know: area and volume. Area is a measure of two dimensions. Volume is a measure of three dimensions. Put another way, one is the measurement of covering, the other is the measurement of filling.

Surface area

Use this for calculating your needs for jobs like paving or laying turf. Basically, any material that you would order in square metres uses the formula. It’s a simple length times width. So 3m by 4m is 12 square metres.

If you have irregular shaped areas, just break them up into measurable shapes. An L-shape, for example, can be easily estimated as two rectangles. For triangular spaces, measure the two sides that join with what is closest to a right angle and multiply these, then divide that by 2. So our 3 x 4 example would be 12 ÷ 2 giving you 6 square metres.

Remember that it’s good practice to always order a little extra, such as 10 percent, to cover for breakage, cuts or materials that aren’t up to scratch.

Volume

This is the formula for calculating quantities of items like soil, sand and concrete. If it’s a material ordered in cubic metres this is the formula you apply.

The formula simply adds a third dimension to the area formula – depth. You need to multiply length by width by depth. So 3m x 4m x .5m = 6 cubic metres.

Again, break one awkward shape up into a number of easy ones, while triangular or wedge-shaped areas can be measured as width by height and then divided by 2. And don’t forget to add that extra 10% as a buffer.

If you are trying to estimate quantities to buy material in bags, you’ll find that soils or potting mixes are generally sold by litres. Use the same cubic calculation and then remember that 1 cubic metre is 1000 litres, so divide your cubic volume by bag size. As an example, 1 cu/m = 1,000L so divide this by 60L (if that’s the bag size) to get 16.6. So you would need 17 (60 litre) bags per cubic metre.

Measurement mistakes

Mistakes are most often made when estimating quantities if measuring units are mixed up. The metric system uses metres (m) centimetres (cm) and millimetres (mm). Unless you’re cutting timber, where you’ll talk in millimetres, most lengths are listed in metres or centimetres. Just remember not to mix them up and that one metre is 100cm or 1000mm.

How to build a simple coffee table using pallet timber

Peggers — Wed, 06 May 2020 04:21:49 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

This simple coffee table is a great first project for those just starting to work with recycled pallet wood. You could use it as a stepping stone before making a pallet dining table.

The coffee table can be completed in just a few hours and can be easily converted into a desk if you prefer.

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Steps

Step 1

You can make this coffee table with two pallets – one for the base and one for the wood strips. But it’s even easier if you just use one pallet and then buy some rough pine strips from the timber section at Bunnings. They are very cheap and mean that you can avoid the sweat and tears of trying to take a pallet apart.

Step 2

Measure the wood strips to fit your pallet in terms of length and then measure the width they need to be. Draw this on with a pencil. Each width is likely to be different as pallets are rarely uniform. You can cut the lengths of wood with a handsaw, but you really need an electric jigsaw or circular saw to cut the width to size.

Step 3

There’s something satisfying about using a plane. It reminds me of watching my dad in his workshop when I was a kid. While you want to cut the wood strips as close to the right size as possible, make sure they’re a snug fit by just shaving off those last few millimetres. You don’t need to sand the edges, just get them as close to the right size as possible and then just tap them in place lightly with a rubber mallet if they need it. You will find there’s usually a bit of give in this type of wood.

Step 4

When the strips are all in place, just tap the ends to get them lined up perfectly and then fix in place with nails. You only need 50mm tacks and they should go into the soft wood easily. It’s good if there’s some difference in the colour and texture of the strips as it gives a unique pattern to the table. Even if they’re radically different and form stripes it can be fun. And sanding them all back will even things out if you want a uniform look.

Step 5

You can sand the table by hand, but an electric sander will make things so much easier. My old one did the whole job of top, side and edges in less than an hour. A pack of five sanding sheets was enough for the project. It’s not uniform, but there’s a smoothness all over, with no edges that will give you splinters. There’s also enough natural grains and lines left to give a really beautiful and natural pattern - something you only really get with homemade furniture like this. You can see at the half way point the difference that sanding makes.

Step 6

For my table I wanted wood on the underside so that it creates shelves below the table top for storage. You don’t need to do this, but it’s worth doing for that extra bit of style. The added benefit is that you don’t need to laboriously cut them to fit exactly as they can’t be seen. Just make sure there is enough wood with small enough gaps that they can hold books. Nail them in place and don’t worry about varnishing afterwards. Give them a quick sand on top though, so you don’t catch a splinter in the future.

Step 7

There are plenty of alternatives when it comes to what the table sits on. I like to use caster wheels to give an industrial feel. And if the table is to live on an outside deck, then it makes it easier to wheel around as you need it. An alternative is pre-made table legs from Bunnings, or make your own legs from bits of scrap wood. If it’s going to sit in the lounge and you like to put your feet up, then make sure the caster wheels have fastening brakes or the constant movement will become very annoying!

You might also choose to install long legs for a high table or desk. Changing the legs is quick and easy so you can transform your table in just 10 minutes.

Step 8

There are plenty of ways to finish your table. I’ve done ones in the past that are painted white and then sanded back to form a vintage wood look. You can also paint with bright primary colours and then add gloss varnish. For this one, the wood tones were really pretty and subtle, so I just wanted a gloss varnish to bring these up. I bought some ultra gloss varnish and put about an inch and a half in a plastic pot and added a splash of turps to loosen it up. Paint the varnish on really quickly with a big brush. Two coats is enough, but keep going if you want a deeper colour.

Now you’re all finished. You have a stylish, natural and industrial-looking coffee table that you can use inside or out. You might even want to add some rope lights on the underside of the table to give a cool glow at night. These tables are fun to make, so add as much fun as you can.

Materials

1 pallet
10 1.5m pine strips (or a second pallet instead)
50mm nails
4 trolley wheels or table legs
Sandpaper
Ultra gloss varnish
Paint brush
Paint pot
Mineral Turpentine

Tools

Hammer
Tape measure or ruler
Pencil
Saw (preferably electric)
Plane
Electric sander
Vice or clamps

Images

How to fill a raised garden bed

Noelle — Wed, 29 Apr 2020 03:29:59 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

A raised garden bed can help make growing your own fresh vegetables and herbs a breeze. No deep digging, bending or kneeling is required because they’re above ground and can be built to a height that suits you. They can even be placed on a paved courtyard.

Building a raised garden bed is a terrific D.I.Y. project or you can buy flat-pack kits or pre-assembled boxes. The traditional box positioned directly on the ground is the best option but if you don’t have the space, there are orchard crates and boxes with solid bases available. Just check there are plenty of drainage holes and elevate it on bricks or similar so it will drain freely. Remember that once filled it will be too heavy to move.

Once installed, follow our step-by-step guide to how to fill your raised bed.

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Steps

Step 1

You might need to do some preparation work before you start filling the raised bed. For example, it’s wise to ensure any grass underneath the bed is dead and removed before you start filling it. And you should also ensure the base is level.

Depending on the eventual height and depth of the box, you might find it easier to start filling it before it is fully assembled. Shovelling aggregate and soil over a low wall takes less effort and is safer than filling a high bed.

Step 2

Add a layer about 80-100mm deep of aggregate / blue metal, crushed brick, broken concrete, polystyrene or similar to the base of the box to help excess water drain away. This is especially important in boxes with solid bases.

Cover the drainage layer with a layer of weedmat or geofabric which will allow water through but not soil or potting mix particles. This fabric layer is optional for boxes built on soil where drainage water doesn’t need to be clean because it soaks straight into the ground beneath.

Step 3

Deep boxes are perfect for those who can’t garden at ground or low levels, but can be very costly to fill completely with quality potting mix. Use ordinary garden soil to fill the box to about 400mm from the top.

If your overall height or depth of the box is less than 400mm, you can proceed directly to Step 4 and use potting mix.

Step 4

Time to add some premium potting mix. You’ll want to a minimum depth of 300mm of potting mix. Most vegies and herbs will grow and produce well if they have around a 300mm depth of potting mix, even root crops like carrots. Allow 50-100mm space on top for mulch.

Use the best available quality potting mix formulated for vegetables and herbs in your vegie box for optimal results, not garden soil which will dry out and compact quickly. Choose from 100% natural, certified organic, premium boosted with organics or premium with controlled release fertiliser.

Potting mixes tend to come in 25L and 50L bags. To determine the number of bags needed, calculate the volume required. For example, a bed measuring 1.5m wide x 2m long x 0.3m depth of potting mix will need 0.9 cubic metres, which is 900 litres (1000 litres is 1 cubic metre).

Step 5

Don’t press the potting mix down but water it thoroughly so it will settle naturally. Top up again to within 100mm of the top if required.

Now add a 100mm layer of sugarcane, pea straw or Lucerne mulch over the surface to keep it moist and cool. The mulch will also help prevent water running off the top of the garden bed.

Step 6

Plant your seeds or seedlings and enjoy your harvests in the coming months.

Materials

Raised garden bed
Aggregate / blue metal screenings, broken bricks / broken concrete (20-30mm in size) or crushed polystyrene boxes
Weedmat
Soil (for boxes over 400mm high)
Premium vegetable and herb potting mix
Organic weedicide (for boxes installed on the ground)

Tools

Gardening gloves
Face mask
Wheelbarrow
Shovel or spade
Hose

Images

How to plan a garden makeover

Adam_W — Tue, 25 Aug 2020 01:02:09 GMT

How to replace a flyscreen

Tara86 — Fri, 17 Apr 2020 05:18:35 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Replacing flyscreen is a quick, easy and inexpensive job. It enables you to ensure there’s plenty of fresh air in the house while keeping the insects outside where they belong.

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Steps

Step 1

Before removing the flyscreen, give it a quick brush or wipe down. Make sure you remove any spiderwebs or built-up dust.

Step 2

Remove the flyscreen frame and lay down on a flat surface with the spline groove facing upwards. Place the screwdriver beside the spline and wedge it underneath. Do this until you are able to lift it up enough to grab. Then proceed to remove the rest of the spline.

Step 3

Now the spline is removed you will be able to remove the old mesh screen. But before you replace the mesh, check the frame is square by measuring corner to corner diagonally. If each diagonal measurement is the same, then the frame is square. If slightly out, use a hammer to gently tap the corners until square.

Step 4

Place new mesh over the top of the frame. Ensure there is a minimum 2cm overhang on all sides before cutting with scissors.

Step 5

Inserting the new spline can be tricky and requires a little patience. Be careful not split the spline or damage the mesh. Push the spline end into a corner using your screwdriver.

Step 6

Use the spline roller to finish inserting the rest of the spline. Be mindful to pull the excess mesh slightly when using the roller. This will add extra support and helps stop the mesh catching underneath the spline. Use the screwdriver to finish off and push the spline into the frame at the corners.

Step 7

Remove the overhang with scissors or preferably a utility knife for a closer finish. After a quick wipe down, your flyscreen is now ready to be hung back on the window.

Materials

Flyscreen mesh
Flyscreen spline

Tools

Spline roller
Tape measure
Brush or cloth
Screwdriver
Scissors
Utility knife
Hammer

Images

How to build a pallet timber table

Peggers — Wed, 01 Apr 2020 00:04:11 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

This homemade pallet table looks wonderfully rustic and authentic. It’s cheap, quick and easy to make.

It will also give you the confidence to build more pallet timber furniture.

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Steps

Step 1

Your first task is to find suitable pallets. The table is built from three pallets. You need two pallets that look very similar to each other and are virtually the same size to form the bulk of the table top. The third pallet is going to be broken apart for the wood. If the third pallet is the same as the first two (in terms of colour and size) then you’ll get a uniform table. If you’re looking to do a really thorough job and end up with something good enough for inside dining, then that should be your preference. But if you’re looking for something fun and rustic for outside, then it’s okay if the third pallet is radically different. You will just end up with a random wood pattern.

Step 2

The hardest part of the whole project is taking the pallets apart without breaking the wood and losing your cool! There are specific tools you can buy for taking pallets apart, but personally I use traditional tools and use it as a fitness session!

Turn your pallet over, get a sturdy old flathead screwdriver, and use a hammer to gently loosen the struts on the underside of the pallet. Take your time and ease them and the nails up gently, as you want to keep this wood to use on the topside. Take off the bottom three struts on each of the two table pallets, and take the third pallet apart completely. Then have a sit down and a big glass of water!

Step 3

Time to join the pallets together. Once you’ve stripped the bottom struts off, line up the two pallets with the topside facing down. Line up the outside and central wood beams exactly and get some strips of wood (ideally from the pallet you’ve taken apart) and use them to join the two pallets together. Use screws for this as using nails could damage the pallets.

Once you’ve joined the pallets in three or four places on the main wooden spines, then flip the whole thing over to start completing the table top.

At this stage you can also nail on a pallet strip at either end of the table so that there is an edge all the way round.

Step 4

With all the leftover pallet wood from underneath these two pallets and the third pallet, you want to start filling in the gaps on the table top. Measure the width of the gaps either side, as they won’t be uniform. Then draw the size it needs to be to fit onto the spare strip of wood.

Cut the strip to almost exactly the size you need, but slightly too big is better than way too small. Some small gaps are okay with this rustic look, but not too many. You can use a handsaw, but it is easier with an electric jigsaw or circular saw.

Step 5

Now shape each piece to fit. Ideally each strip of wood is just a tiny bit too big to fit in, so that you can shape it to fit exactly. Clamp each piece in a vice or small work table and use a plane to get it down to the exact size.

This process can take a while, but it’s hugely satisfying getting the strips to gradually fit. It’s like completing a jigsaw puzzle! And as you can see from my table, different types of wood are not a problem as they give a striking striped table top.

Step 6

When you start sanding, the striking candy-striped effect will start to calm down a little and you’ll start to get some beautiful wood patterns. If you’re looking for a fancy table for inside dining, then you’ll want to make things super smooth and uniform. If this is for outside, then I just give a light sand. You just need to obviously take off rough edges and anything that can cause splinters. But by leaving plenty of texture and contrast, you get an effect that really makes you appreciate how beautiful, natural and unique wood can be.

Step 7

How you approach the table legs will depend on what you want the table for. You can buy some beautiful legs at Bunnings for a really classy feel. Vintage black metal legs, pine legs or chrome legs can also all be used. If it’s for outside, I usually just try and use some off cuts of wood to continue the rustic and homemade look. For the four corners a square post is great to use, then I supplement that with any thick timber for the supporting middle legs. If there is paint on the off-cuts that doesn’t matter, just sand it back.

Step 8

You can use brackets or more complex ways to fit legs, but I just use long galvanised bolts with nuts. I do this partly because I love the look of the bolt heads on the outside of the table - they add an industrial touch to the rustic table. Drill through the wooden struts and the table legs at different heights and at right angles to each other, then tighten the bolts with an adjustable spanner. This will be strong enough for everyday use, although I’d advise against dancing on the table top if a barbecue gets out of hand!

Step 9

Next step is to varnish the table. For this I use a gloss or ultra-gloss oil-based varnish. Pour some from the tin into a plastic paint pot (a few centimetres deep) and then add a small capful of turps to loosen it. This makes it easier for brushing on. Take a paint brush and paint it on, going with the grain. It’ll take around 6 hours to dry. The more coats you do, the deeper and shinier the finish.

Alternatively, you can paint the table lightly in white paint and then sand the whole thing back to get a distressed antique wood finish. You could even paint the table in different colours - whatever you like. It’s a cheap table to experiment with.

Step 10

When it comes to styling, if you add something classic and stylish and vintage, it seems to lift the table further. Vintage glassware and ornaments from Op Shops are a fun addition, or Bunnings has a great selection of outside plants and candles.
Congratulations if this is your first table. Now start making more for your friends and family. They make impressive and thoughtful gifts!

Materials

Three pallets
60mm nails
60mm screws
120mm nuts and bolts
Sandpaper
Full gloss varnish
Mineral Turpentine

Tools

Hammer
Long flathead screwdriver (or crowbar)
Tape measure (or ruler)
Pencil
Saw (preferably electric)
Drill
Plane
Adjustable spanner
Electric sander
Vice or clamps
Paintbrush
Paint pot

Images

How to lay paving for a path

Adam_W — Wed, 27 Nov 2019 23:50:34 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

Paving is a straightforward D.I.Y. job. A project such as a small pathway can be completed in a weekend.

A paving job typically features three layers – 30-50mm of road-base compacted down, then a 20-30mm layer of bedding or paving sand, followed by your pavers. But for this project (like most established backyards) we had very stable and compacted soil and it was a low-traffic area so we could skip the road-base.

Before you start, decide on the pattern you plan to lay your pavers in, we used basket weave with a stretcher border. You’ll find most paving companies have images showing the various styles. Do bear in mind that some may involve a lot of cutting.

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Video Tutorial

Steps

Step 1

Determine your path width and length and mark out accordingly. Make sure you take into account any surrounding elements. In this case we needed to align with the existing paved area and the clothesline.

Step 2

The easiest way to remove any existing lawn is to take a little time to slice the area into sections. First cut a line with your spade all the way around the edge about 15-20cm out from your marked line. Then make spade-width line cuts across the area. Once you’ve done this over the whole area start from one edge and slide your spade under the grass. You’ll find it comes up in neat spade-width strips. This is a lot easier than using a mattock to dig it out. If handled carefully you can also reuse the grass elsewhere.

Step 3

Use a mattock or hoe remove any excess soil and bring to approximate height. Use a landscape rake to remove any chunks of material and use the smooth-edged back of the rake to roughly level.

Step 4

Check excavated depths at a set point. In our case we were able to take our mark from the existing paving and follow that. If just laying to a sand bed your excavation will need to be the thickness of your brick or paver and a sand bed of 20-30mm. We needed 100mm clear from the top level of our existing paving. If we had been using road-base we would have needed 130-150mm clear. Set a string-line around the perimeter to determine heights all-round. If sides are to be level, you can do this by fitting the line-level to the string-line and adjusting accordingly. Remember when paving always slope it slightly away from structures.

Step 5

Bring in paving sand and spread evenly over area and bring to rough level with a rake. Then use a screed bar (we used an old spirit level) to smooth and level the surface. If laying road-base it is laid prior to the paving sand, brought to rough level in the same way and then compacted with a vibrating-plate compactor. Initial sand level can be around 5-10mm high to allow for compaction during laying.

Step 6

Stack your bricks or pavers at an easy-to-reach distance well spaced around the area to be paved. This allows you to lay your pavers without interruption and avoids having any excessively high stacks.

When trying to count how many pavers you need, first calculate how many of your pavers you need for 1 square metre. For example, a regular brick is 230mm (.23) x 110mm (.11) = .0253. 1m divided by .0253 = 39.5. So you need approximately 40 bricks per square metre. Now work out your area and multiply this by your paver number.

Step 7

Start from one edge and begin laying your pavers aligning with your stringline. We laid our pavers in a basket-weave pattern with a stretcher-bond border to match the existing paving. Use the rubber mallet to tamp down each paver as you go.

Step 8

You’ll find you need to cut some pavers for various end points or to work around objects. If you only have a few to do then the easiest way to cut bricks is using a brick bolster and a lump hammer. Place the brick on a firm, even surface, position the bolster blade at the point you wish to cut and strike firmly with the lump hammer. With practice you’ll be able to cleanly and accurately cut solid bricks with a single strike. For larger pavers or hollow-core bricks you will need to use cutting tools such as a wet-saw or a grinder fitted with a suitable blade. With any power tools, please remember to use appropriate safety gear and if dry-cutting you must also wear breathing protection.

Step 9

Techniques at this stage will vary with the type of paver. If using brick pavers then lift the border edge, remove the bedding sand. Mix sand and cement to a stiff consistency. In sections around 1m long at a time, fill the area of removed sand with a generous amount of this sand and cement mix. Reposition border pavers and tamp back down until surface is aligned with paving. Follow Step 10 before completing the next 1m section.

If using larger format pavers, lift but only remove sand to around 40mm in from edge, then fill and re-lay.

Step 10

Once pavers are tamped back down, any excess sand and cement will have squeezed out the side. Use your trowel to haunch this excess up the sides of the pavers to at least half their height making sure it’s packed it firmly. This will lock your paver edge in place.

Step 11

Avoid stepping on edges that have been cemented-in. Spread the washed sand over entire area and allow it to dry. Once dry, broom back and forth and side to side to sweep into and cracks and joints of pavers. This locks them in place, preventing rocking. You may need to do this again about a week or so later. Once satisfied with this joint filling, sweep off the excess sand and your paving project is complete.

Step 12

You may occasionally encounter fiddly spots which are too difficult to pave and these fall into the “finishing touches” category. In our case the concrete supporting the clothesline stood too high to allow pavers to be laid. The solution was to leave a square section unpaved and then fill this with washed, decorative pebbles.

Materials

New or recycled bricks
Road-base (if required)
River or paving sand (for bedding)
Sydney or washed beach sand (for brooming in)
Bagged cement or pre-mixed sand and cement

Tools

Mattock or heavy hoe
Digging spade
Landscape rake
Tape measure
Set-out paint
Straight edge or screed bar
Builder’s stringline and pegs
Spirit level (1.2m minimum) and line-level (optional)
Rubber mallet
Lump hammer
Brick bolster
Trowel
Wheelbarrow
Stiff broom

Images

How to make compost for your garden

Noelle — Thu, 21 Nov 2019 03:58:41 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Compost is a gardener’s best friend. It adds organic matter (humus) and nutrients back into soils, improves soil texture, increases moisture holding and generally improves overall soil and plant health.

The good news is that it's easy to make your own compost. Compost is the result of the natural decomposition of “green waste” - the non-woody parts of plants. The waste is broken down by friendly soil-borne organisms, including earthworms, in an aerobic (oxygen-rich) environment. Green waste in an anaerobic (oxygen-deprived) environment will rot or putrefy, turning into a slimy, smelly mess.

Just follow our simple steps and you'll have amazing compost to use in your garden.

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Video Tutorial

Steps

Step 1

Choose an appropriate position in the garden for your compost bin. A flat spot on soil is necessary for a bin or cage so the “good bugs” can move up into the waste materials you add to do their work. Compost does generate some heat of its own while decomposing, but morning sun will hasten the process. Afternoon shade is preferred so the bin or cage doesn’t get too hot. Excessive heat could kill the critters you’ve just encouraged. In among the garden foliage is the ideal spot – convenient but camouflaged!

Step 2

Decide what type of compost maker you want. A traditional square compost box of timber slats that can be removed to turn or to access the contents is simple to build, while wire mesh cages, fully enclosed bins and compost tumblers can all be easily purchased.

Step 3

When your compost maker is installed, you’re ready to go! There are lots of different methods of making compost, but one of the most popular is alternating layers of “dry” and “wet” ingredients (see Step 4 for what you can put into the compost). Following a structured recipe isn’t essential, so long as you use a wide range of materials and don’t add too much of one particular ingredient at a time.

Start with a layer of reasonably coarse fresh green waste (clippings or prunings are ideal) combined with a compost activator to get the process happening. Make sure it is fairly loose and no more than 10-12cm deep. Lightly cover it with a 10-12cm layer of loose dry material like pea straw or lucerne mulch.

Continue adding layers alternately. Look at the contents regularly and if it looks very dry, then lightly water. Moisture is essential. You’ll know if it’s too wet or you’ve added too much fresh material by the smell! If you are using a compost tumbler, follow the manufacturer’s guidelines for best results.

Step 4

There is a wide variety of things you can put into the compost. They include:

Vegetable and fruit scraps and peelings from the kitchen (keep a container on the bench)
Crushed egg shells to add calcium (use a mortar & pestle to grind them up)
Lawn clippings that have been allowed to dry off for a week or two (fresh clippings may be too moist)
Fallen leaves
Spent vegetable and flowering plants that have been pulled out
Well-weathered animal manure such as chicken manure (sparingly)
A light sprinkle of blood and bone periodically
Clippings and soft prunings from hedges and green plants (but avoid woody twigs)
Pea straw or lucerne mulch or sugarcane mulch
Shredded paper (do not use newspaper because the ink can be harmful to micro-organisms).

Twigs and woody stems/small branches should be put through a mulcher and added directly to the garden as mulch, rather than being included in compost-making, where they may take a long time to break down, while mulch and shredded paper should be used in moderation.

Step 5

Please also remember what you should not put into compost. Anything of animal origin that rots, putrefies or attracts rodents and flies or is not readily decomposed by soil micro-organisms, including:

Meat or fish (raw or cooked)
Cooked food waste and table scraps (salad vegies are OK)
Dairy products (cooked or raw)
Cooking oils and fats
Fresh animal manure (including cat and dog poo)
Human waste

Step 6

Aerate the compost occasionally with a garden fork. Lift and loosen the contents of your bin or cage to reduce compaction and ensure everything is breaking down rather than rotting. While not essential, turning over will mix the materials and produce a more uniform end product.

Compost should have an earthy smell, never unpleasant or odorous. A couple of handfuls of garden lime every few weeks will help keep the compost “sweet” (not too acidic).

Step 7

Continue adding more mixed waste until the bin or cage is comfortably full, then leave it to “mature” for a couple of months, checking the moisture content occasionally to ensure it doesn’t become too dry.

It’s a good idea to have a second bin or cage ready to go when the first one is full and maturing, so you can have a continuous supply of goodness for the garden.

The end result some three to six months from starting should be a rich, dark, sweet smelling “soil” that your plants will love you for! Add it to the vegetable patch in preparation for planting or spread it around growing plants to improve the quality of the soil and give them a nutrient boost.

Materials

Garden waste
Fruit and vegetable scraps from the kitchen
Compost activator
Garden lime
Shredded paper
Pea straw or lucerne mulch or sugarcane mulch

Tools

Compost bin or cage
Compost caddy or alternative like an ice cream container with lid
Gardening gloves
Garden fork
Secateurs
Face mask (optional)
Paper shredder (optional)

Images

How to build a simple raised garden bed

Adam_W — Tue, 12 Nov 2019 22:23:40 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Raised garden beds give you more convenient and comfortable access to your plants and more control over their growing conditions. Raised beds can also be attractive features in your garden, whether you want to grow vegetables, herbs, flowers or anything else.

Building a raised garden bed can be surprisingly easy. Just follow our step-by-step guide.

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Video Tutorial

Steps

Step 1

Make sure you choose the right materials for the job. If you plan on growing edibles or will be in regular contact with the timber, make sure it is safe. Use new, untreated hardwood (reclaimed railway sleepers can be chemical saturated) or use pine that has been treated with ACQ or Micropro. Do not use conventional CCA treated pine.

For our project, we used one row of treated pine sleepers to create a 200mm high bed. Pine sleepers are the perfect choice as they are affordable and easy to work with.

Typically a bed like this would use sleepers cut-to-size for the posts but we decided to make it even easier by using galvanised pre-formed sleeper supports. These allow a sleeper to be dropped in and securely held. They are the fastest and easiest way to build beds and walls.

Step 2

Next step is to ensure your new garden bed is in the right position. Your bed isn’t something you will want to pull up and move, so take the time to get the position right. If growing vegetables or other sun-loving plants, select a location that provides maximum sun exposure across the seasons. Think about exposure to prevailing winds, too. You can position your bed in a sloping section of your yard, but this means it moves from being simply a raised bed to functioning like retaining wall on the downhill side. In this situation there will be a little extra work in securing the front posts. Finally, remember that the bed will become a fixed part of the landscape, so make sure it’s going to work aesthetically with the rest of your yard and not like an after-thought.

Step 3

Mark for the long corners on one side. You can do this by just laying a sleeper on the ground. Dig the first hole to around 200mm deep. Drop one corner-post into the hole with a maximum of 200mm above ground. Temporarily position a 2.4m sleeper in the slot of the corner-post to check alignment with the second hole. Add concrete to the hole, checking the post is plumb on the front and side as you do so. You can use the sleeper end to mark the spot for your second hole precisely. Remove the sleeper and dig the second post-hole.

Step 4

Position the second corner-post in the hole. Drop-in a full-length sleeper for spacing and alignment, and check the post is plumb. Put a spirit-level on the sleeper to check the level is correct before concreting the post in place.

Cut one 2.4m sleeper in half. Position one half sleeper in each corner-post. Measure from the inside corner created to the end of the opposite half sleeper and note the length. Reverse this and compare the lengths. This is called checking the diagonals. If they are the same then your sleepers are correctly positioned at a right-angle. If not, adjust until they are the same and then mark for holes on the ends. Excavate holes and repeat the process for corner-posts, checking diagonally again before concreting.

Step 5

Drop the final full-length sleeper into place between the posts. Work your way from corner-to-corner checking the sleeper height and add one fixing screw through the corner-post to each sleeper. Only add one at this stage to allow for adjustment at the other end. Once each is set at correct height and secured with one screw, go back around and add a second to lock them in place. You may find it easier to pre-drill the steel before sinking screw in.

Step 6

Cut weed-mat into strips around 400mm wide and to suitable lengths for each side. Lap these around two-thirds of the way up the sides of the bed and use a staple gun to secure. This will stop any soil from moving out beneath the sleepers and prevent grass from running into the bed.

Step 7

Find the centre of the long sides of the bed and mark each side at that point. Measure the distance between the inside faces. It should a little over 1200mm. Check the distance on one end to make sure the centre has not bowed. Cut the remaining sleeper to suit the distance. This is fixed from side-to-side across centre with 100mm screws as a brace to prevent the long panels bowing outwards over time.

Step 8

Ensure the weed mat is fully extended into the bed, not tucked under itself, then start laying newspaper. Wet it slightly first in a bucket to prevent it blowing away as you work. Cover the entire base to at least eight sheets thick. This will be enough to supress any existing grass until it dies back. The paper will then compost down into the soil.

Step 9

Position the remaining sleeper as a ramp on the side of bed and then start wheelbarrowing in the soil. Level the soil as you go to help avoid air pockets. But avoid compacting excessively – just lightly tamp down.

Step 10

Plant your new garden bed. We used a selection of semi-advanced and seedling sized vegetables. If you are putting in any plants that require stakes as they grow, such as tomatoes, put the stakes in at planting time rather than hammering through roots later on. Water well then spread mulch before watering again. Your bed is now complete!

Materials

To create a 2.4m x 1.2 bed on flat ground, you will need:

Four 2.4m x 200mm x 50mm sleepers (ACQ or Micro-shades/Sienna)
Four Retain-It 450mm corner-posts
Four bags of quick-set concrete (add extra and use high-strength for sloping sites)
255mm galvanised hex-head timber screws
100mm Climacote bugle-headed batten screws
Weed mat
Newspapers
Bulk soil suitable for the plants you want to grow
Lucerne for mulch

Tools

Measuring tape
Long and short spirit levels
Post hole shovel or digging spade
Drill-driver with suitable bits
Power saw or handsaw
Wheelbarrow
Staple gun (optional)

Images

How to cook pork ribs

MoonshineBen — Wed, 06 Nov 2019 23:28:42 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Pork ribs are one of the quickest and easiest barbecue cooks you can do. It’s a multi-step process that takes around three hours. Getting it right makes it easy to knock out multiple racks, which make entertaining easy.

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Video Tutorial

Steps

Step 1

Square the ribs up by removing the bone on one or both ends that is not complete. Depending on the ribs, you may also need to square across the top, removing the rib tips. These are softer, more cartilage-like, and you’ll be able to feel them with your hand by bending at the top of the rack.

Don’t throw away any of the trim, it is still good to cook!

Step 2

One of the most important steps is removing the membrane from the back of the pork ribs. This will allow you to slice easier and won’t have a papery feel to the back on the ribs when you’re eating.

Slide a butter knife under at the edge of the ribs close to the end of the rack, then use your finger to loosen back to the end of the rack. Grab a paper towel and grip the membrane and pull it back the opposite way to remove it. Discard.

Trim any hard fat from the top of the ribs.

Step 3

Season the ribs with your favourite barbecue rub, more liberally on top and make sure you get the edges. Leave it for 30-45 minutes and it will develop a dark red colour, which is what you are going for.

Step 4

Place in a 135c (275F) smoker for 90 minutes. Add a chunk of smoking wood to the coals. We like to use apple or peach.

Cook until the ribs have developed a nice mahogany colour and they feel firm.

Step 5

Using a double layer of foil, spread butter, sugar and honey, and place the ribs upside down on the foil. Wrap tightly (you don’t want them to steam), and return to the smoker, bone side up.

Step 6

After another hour, remove from the foil and check to see if they are bending yet. The ones in the video went a little over, which is OK. But if they are under cooked, they won’t bend as much. Glaze with a warmed sauce and return to the smoker for 20 minutes for the sauce to set.

Step 7

Turn the cooked ribs upside down on a board and slice between the bones with a sharp knife. It’s OK if they are a little soft, they are still good eating.

Materials

Rack of baby back or pork spare ribs
Charcoal and smoking wood (peach or apple)
Butter
Sugar
Honey
Barbecue sauce
Foil

Tools

Smoker barbecue
Boning knife
Chopping board
Digital probe thermometer

Images

How to pot a plant

Noelle — Tue, 29 Oct 2019 04:43:20 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Growing plants in pots is easier than ever. We have high-quality potting mixes made from renewable resources and a wide range of plants bred especially for growing in pots. There’s also plenty of fantastic pots, bowls, baskets and tubs designed to be both functional and decorative.

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Steps

Step 1

Choose a pot that will complement the plant you want to put in it – both in colour and size. It may be plastic, terracotta, glazed ceramic or lightweight concrete-like. Porous materials like terracotta will need more frequent watering than sealed pots but they may also stay cooler for longer, protecting roots better.

The pot should comfortably hold the plant, with about 3-4cm clearance between the existing root ball and the sides. Don’t think that by choosing a pot several sizes larger you will be doing the plant a favour - you won't! Excess potting mix beyond the roots may turn sour, becoming smelly and also possibly damaging developing root tips.

Straight or tapered sides, widest at the top, are the best option. A globe-shaped pot may look attractive but you won't be able to remove the plant in the future without breaking it.

Check there is an adequate drainage hole (or holes) in the base to allow excess water to flow out freely. Too few or too small and the potting mix may be excessively wet and your plant may suffer root rot.

Step 2

Always choose a potting mix that complies with the Australian Standard for Potting Mixes and Soils. Look for five red ticks for premium quality mixes that include a wetting agent as well as controlled release fertiliser and five black ticks for standard mixes that contain a short-term fertiliser.

For many plants, an all-purpose or multi-purpose potting mix will be adequate, but if your plant has special needs, look for a potting mix that has been specifically formulated for it.

Step 3

Cut a square or circle of flexible flywire mesh to cover the holes in the base of the pot, to prevent potting mix washing out. Then add 3-4cm of fresh potting mix to the base of the container.

Carefully knock the plant from its existing pot (or carefully separate seedlings) retaining as much of the old mix around the root mass as possible. Gently tease off the upper 2cm of old mix from the top surface.

Remember to protect your hands by always using gardening gloves when handling soils and potting mixes. A face mask may reduce the risk of inhaling dust released when opening the bag if the mix is dry.

Step 4

Look at the root ball of the plant carefully. If the roots are growing downward and are not too congested, then leave them alone. However, if they are spiralling around the pot and there’s little of the old potting mix left, lightly scrape your fingers down the outside of the root mass to loosen them a little and gently "tease" out the roots at the bottom.

The less you disturb the roots overall, the less “transplant shock” the plant will suffer and the faster it will settle in and get growing.

Position the plant into its new pot, making sure it sits at the same level as it did in its previous pot - remove and add more potting mix to the base of the new pot if required. Allow at least 3cm between the new level and the rim of the pot as a "saucer" for water and to prevent potting mix washing off the top.

Add fresh potting mix around the perimeter of the old to fill the gap between the root mass and the pot. Settle the mix by tapping the pot gently on a bench or table. Do not press mix down with your hands – it needs to be aerated for healthy root growth.

Step 5

Water well with a weak solution of plant starter or seaweed to thoroughly moisture the mix and remove any air pockets. Top up the potting mix if necessary, remembering to leave that 3cm "saucer" at the top.

Place your newly potted plant in a protected spot for a week or so to allow it to acclimatise before moving to its permanent home. Now just remember to water it regularly!

Materials

Premium potting mix (all purpose or one specifically made for the plant)
Suitable pot
Fibreglass flywire mesh
Liquid seaweed concentrate

Tools

Gardening gloves
Spray bottle
Scissors
Hand trowel
Small watering can
Face mask (optional)

Images

How to paint like a professional

Peggers — Tue, 22 Oct 2019 23:33:08 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Painting is one of the easiest and most cost-effective ways to transform your home. Whether you’re painting a room, reviving old furniture, or giving your house an external makeover, the principles for great painting are the same. Here are 10 tips to help you get a professional finish.

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Steps

Step 1

Surface Preparation

You need to get a flat and even surface before you start smoothing it. That means filling holes and crevices and scraping off lumps. Use a paint scraper and keep it flat to the wall to slice off any small lumps in a smooth motion. Use a multi-purpose filler to fill up holes and crevices. Apply with a spatula and aim for a smooth finish. Remember that it doesn’t have to be perfect, and to use more rather than less, as you’ll sand it back when it’s dry.

Step 2

Sanding and Cleaning

The balance with sanding is to get a flat surface which is smooth, but not to scratch it in the process. There’s always a temptation to use a coarse paper like 40 grit to get a quicker result with some rougher surfaces, but you’re going to damage the overall finish in the process. Be patient and use something more like 120 grit to get a smooth finish. Then take a clean paint brush and a cloth to brush off all the dust and clean the surface ready for painting.

Step 3

Taping

If you’re painting very different colours next to each other - such as a navy blue wall with a white door frame - then you want to use tape to ensure a straight line. Use masking tape along the wood, right up to the join with the wall. It will allow you to paint with ease. If you’re painting an off-white wall, then you might not need to use tape on door frames and skirting boards. It might come down to how confident in your painting you are. If you do use tape, then wait until everything is completely dry before peeling it off. Also remember to put sheets down on the floor or any furniture to protect them from damage.

Step 4

Colour Schemes

Bunnings is excellent for help with colours. The choice is massive, so I like to go in with a basic plan. Pinterest is excellent for inspiration, regardless of what you are painting. I’ve set up boards with colour schemes for caravan interiors and exteriors, furniture restoration and interior designs. Have a play around and see what fits together. When I painted one caravan navy blue, orange and white, I set up a board with just those three colours - then printed out images and took them to Bunnings to buy the paint.

Step 5

Water-based vs Oil-based

The first choice to navigate when it comes to paint choice is the consistency. Water-based is easier to use. It dries quicker, so you might be able to apply multiple coats on the same day. It also doesn’t smell as much and is easier to get off your hands. It’s great for interior walls and ceilings. But water-based paint is not as durable as oil-based. Oil-based is thicker and stronger, so use it for outside surfaces, furniture and the likes of door frames. You need to paint reasonably quickly with oil-based paint and keep spreading it, especially on a warm day, as it can get sticky.

Step 6

Matt, Gloss or Semi-Gloss

Rather like the consistency of the paint, the finish also depends on what you’re painting. For a wall in a room you’re likely to use matt or semi-gloss as your finish. Something that will give a flat but satin-like finish over a big surface. If I’m wanting a “shabby chic” look when restoring furniture, I will also use a matt finish and sand it back to create a distressed look. For the outside of a caravan or for window and door frames I’ll use a gloss, so that it looks shiny and bright. Gloss features against a matt background always looks amazing.

Step 7

Paint Preparation

Before you start, give the paint a good stir. Don’t shake the can, just take the lid off and stir. You don’t want to paint straight out of the tin. Pour what you need into a pot or a tray - typically an eighth of a tin at a time - and then put the lid back on. If you’re painting something like a door frame with a brush, then pour the paint into a pot. If you’re rolling a big surface, then use a paint tray. Sometimes I’ll add a thinner to the paint so that it spreads easier and settles more evenly. A capful of Penatrol or some mineral turpentine in oil-based paints can give a really beautiful finish.

Step 8

Undercoat

Undercoat can help give you a great result. It seals the surface, helping to provide a more even surface and ensuring that it doesn’t soak up too much paint. An undercoat can also help ensure that previous colours don’t bleed though. I use a white undercoat on everything. The only exception is furniture that I want to look distressed and have old wood or old colours show through. I will then use something like a grey undercoat if the top coat is going to be dark to help reinforce the depth of colour.

Step 9

Using Brushes

I try to use rollers whenever I can, even on smaller surfaces. I think they give a more even finish and help get job done faster. Even for door frames I’ll use a roller on the flatter front part of the frame. But there are times that you can only use brushes, such as the side of a door frame. You also need a brush for the corners of walls. Before you start painting a wall with a roller, you need to “cut-in” with a brush. This means taking a decent size brush and painting down the creases of the wall, and then fading this out (feathering) to virtually nothing as you move out from the corner. When you use the roller, the finish will look smooth.

Step 10

Using Rollers

Rollers are easy to use and give a wonderfully smooth finish. Pour the paint in the trough of the tray and then roll it back and forward on the flat of the tray to get the roller coated evenly. Then cover the wall (or whatever else you are painting) reasonably quickly and evenly, keeping the paint moving. Spread the paint and keep going until your roller needs coating again and the area looks even. Then stand back, have a cup of tea, and admire your handiwork.

Materials

Paint
Sandpaper
Gap filler
Penatrol or Mineral Turpentine
Old sheets
Damp cloth

Tools

Paint rollers
Paint brushes
Paint stirrer
Paint tray
Paint pot
Paint scraper
Gap gun

Images

How to build a retaining wall

Adam_W — Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:29:31 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

Retaining walls not only help ensure soil doesn’t wash away down a slope. They can also become a landscape asset, providing terracing for sloping gardens and lawns or creating level pathways. They are also a great sustainable addition as they’ll slow down water runoff.

This step-by-step guide will help you to build a simple retaining wall using treated pine sleepers. It also includes a set of steps using a flexible design that can be used in many different environments.

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Video Tutorial

Steps

Step 1

Choose the right timber for the job. It’s critical that timber retaining walls be constructed from timber that is suitable for ground contact.

Timber has a number of classes and for most retaining jobs it’s the H or Hazard class that’s most important. For retaining you need to use timber with a minimum rating of H4. In treated pine this H-level is achieved through treating the timber. This is done under pressure with chemicals or other products such as micronized iron.

Commonly available CCA treated pine should not be used where you may have frequent contact with the timber, where any treatment may leach out, or in situations such as vegetable gardens. In these situations use ACQ or MicroPro treated timber.

Step 2

Take some time to plan your retaining wall design, including a basic sketch. A simple, non-structural timber wall can easily be constructed by a anyone with just basic D.I.Y. skills and tools.

If you think you need a tall wall, consider whether you could use a series of smaller, tiered walls instead. You should seek professional advice if the wall height exceeds 400mm, if the wall is close to a boundary, or if it will be structural and carry a heavy or “live” load such as beside a driveway. Also check with your local council for any rules they have regarding retaining.

Step 3

Determine the area where the wall will be. Hammer a peg around 1m out from both ends, run stringline between, and mark the line with paint. Mark points for posts. Every 2.4m or 3m sleeper must have posts at either end and one in the centre.

Step 4

Excavate as needed to reach desired levels and dig post-holes. In our case we installed the smaller downhill wall first as it did not require posts, just digging in. This gave us a level to work from. If you encounter rock you may need to use a small rock-breaker. Note that a post-hole should allow for around 100mm space at the front and back of the post and 50mm each side to allow for both positioning adjustments and adequate concrete.

The depth of the post below the ground can be variable depending on soil type and topography. For example, a 400mm high wall in heavy soil on a minor slope could have as little as 200mm in ground. But if soil was loose or slope greater, then you may need the same height in-ground as above. If in doubt, seek professional advice.

Step 5

Cut posts to desired length. We cut ours 800mm allowing for 400mm below ground. For extra support we used thicker 75mm sleepers for the posts. Use stringline, levels and tape measure to accurately set position and height. You can set posts a little high and trim off afterwards. Put around 30 to 40mm of gravel or concrete in the bottom of the hole, position post and add concrete following instructions on the bag. Check it is level on both the face and the sides. Repeat for all posts and allow to set.

Step 6

Our wall included a small set of steps. These were assembled and dropped into place affixing them to the first post and existing wall. See diagram for details of the design. The size can be adjusted to suit.

Step 7

Drop 75mm sleepers in behind posts. For a continuous, longer wall the sleeper end should be in the centre of the post. Check level is correct and use 100mm construction screws to secure. There should be a screw added at top and bottom of sleeper face at each post. At wall ends sleeper end should be flush with post and additional screws may be added for extra strength.

Step 8

Position drainage pipe behind wall and run output end to suitable location where it can be accessed. Cover pipe with gravel and then cover this with filter fabric. (see diagram for cross section of wall and drainage)

Step 9

If used, connect un-slotted pipe to drain pipe output and run to the required point. Drainage water must never be drained to a boundary so direct it to a suitable stormwater drain on-site or into a garden area.

Step 10

The cut material can now be used to fill behind the wall. Pat it down to remove large air pockets but do not overly compress it. You can now add turf or plant out the area to finish it off.

Materials

To create a treated pine wall 2.4m long by 400mm high, we used the following materials:

Treated pine sleepers – Two sleepers for the rails measuring 200mm x 50mm x 2400mm, plus one for the posts measuring 200mm x 75mm x 2.4m
100mm timber construction screws (small pack)
Pre-mixed Quickset concrete with a strength rating of at least 24MPa (minimum of 3 bags)
65mm slotted agricultural drainage pipe
65mm un-slotted agricultural drainage pipe (optional)
20kg bag of blue metal drainage aggregate (minimum of 2)
Filter or drainage fabric
Set-out paint
Set-out pegs

Tools

Safety gear – eyes, ears, breathing, hands and feet
Digging spade or shovel and mattock
Wheelbarrow
Levels (long and short)
Tape measure
String line
Builder’s square
Power saw
Drill-driver

Images

How to prepare a smoker barbecue for cooking

MoonshineBen — Wed, 09 Oct 2019 01:01:51 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

A smoker barbecue can cook mouth-watering food, but taking some time to prepare your smoker for a big cook-up is essential. This step-by-step guide is for an offset smoker, where the fire chamber is off to the side, leaving plenty of room in the food chamber for big pieces of meat.

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Video Tutorial

Steps

Step 1

Fire up a chimney starter with a full load of lump charcoal. This is going to start the bed of coals that you build your fire on.

Step 2

Ensure the vents on your offset’s firebox are half open. Then tip the lit charcoal into the firebox and push towards the back. You want to keep the front clear to preheat your wood.

Add some smaller pieces of wood to the fire and place two larger logs away from the fire at the front of the firebox to preheat. Now close the lid.

Step 3

After five to 10 minutes, lift the lid. Using tongs, place the two preheated logs onto the fire. They will light quickly. Place another log at the front of the firebox to preheat.

Close the lid and let your fire build. The smoke will start white but eventually thin out.

Step 4

Watch your temperature gauge for the desired temperature and use your vents to control airflow and stabilise it. You are looking for blue smoke before cooking – very thin smoke that is almost invisible. Too much white smoke can overpower meat and result in an unpleasant taste.

Step 5

Once stable, repeat the process of adding a log and preheating during the cook. Depending on the insulation in your smoker, the amount of air, the thickness of the steel and the outside temperature, the logs will burn at different rates. Typically, I add a new log every 30 to 45 minutes.

Materials

Lump charcoal
Ironwood or similar hardwood splits (logs)

Tools

Offset smoker barbecue
Tongs to handle wood and charcoal
Barbecue chimney starter

Images

How to renovate a timber deck

Adam_W — Thu, 03 Oct 2019 04:40:23 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

A timber deck is an easy and effective way to enhance your outdoor lifestyle space. But what happens when your old deck needs some serious repair work? You don’t need to call in the experts – a deck renovation can certainly be a D.I.Y. job.

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Steps

Step 1

A deck like this with rotting slats and dangerously damaged balustrades is in desperate need of work.

Remove any fences or rails that may obstruct your work but do leave any in place as required for safety. Starting from one end of one edge start removing old decking. For hardwood you may need to hammer the bar under before prying up.

When demolishing and rebuilding always wear ear, eye and hand protection. And as you’ll be walking on open joists (possibly at height) take care to prevent falls. We retained sections of decking to serve as platforms until we had new decking laid to work from.

Step 2

Inspect the top of all existing bearers and joists to ensure they are sound and rot-free. Check any posts that will be retained to make sure they are sound and secure. Thoroughly clean the top of bearers and joists to remove any loose material. Inspect any bolts that may be attaching your deck to walls and posts. Lightly sand and surfaces you plan to paint and then apply at least two coats of paint. You’ll find this easier than trying mask around decking boards later.

Step 3

You can fix your decking down in a number of ways and the type of fasteners you select can vary by decking type. For example:

Galvanised helical threaded nails (often called screw nails) resist deck board movement.
Climacote Philips #2 drive screws - this type of coating (or similar Class 3 minimum) is required when using ACQ treated timber.
Stainless steel square-drive decking screws - use stainless steel around saltwater pools or near the ocean.

If you use hardwood decking or have hardwood joists you’ll need to pre-drill for every nail or screw. It’s also recommended to always pre-drill when using stainless steel decking screws as they are more inclined to break under drilling stresses.

Step 4

Treated pine decking is generally reeded on one side. This is often mistakenly thought to be for extra grip. The reeding is designed to go on the underside. This helps prevent cupping and also maximises airflow over joists preventing moisture build-up that may otherwise lead to rot. Leaving it face up can in-fact lead to rot as dirt and moisture collect in the grooves and stays damp.

Step 5

Starting from the end of an outside edge secure your first board. Boards must always be secured to at least three joists to prevent bending. Cut to size accordingly. For smaller decks you may be able to use continuous lengths without needing to have joins. Avoid having joins in a straight line, so first board run may be longer board on left and shorter on right and then the opposite for the next run.

It is important to sink a screw or nail on either side of the board to stop the board from ‘cupping’ up.

Step 6

As you lay each board you need to ensure there is adequate space between them as well as between walls and posts. This is to allow moisture and dirt to drop through but also to give the boards room to shrink and expand with temperature and humidity. It’s important that you keep these spacings equal along the length of the board and across the entire deck. A gap of around 5mm is pretty typical. You can use a tool such as a chisel, provided you have a couple of the same size, or you can buy deck spacers.

Step 7

Always pre-drill on ends to avoid splitting, with treated pine decking this is likely the only time you’ll need to pre-drill. If however you are using hardwood decking or have hardwood joists you will need to pre-drill for every fastener.

Step 8

Cut handrail panels to size. To ensure panel appearance is balanced remove equal lengths from either end. For example, if you need to reduce panel width by 80mm take 40mm from either end. Slide brackets onto all ends, position panel, use 50 or 75mm screws to secure one top end, check level, secure other top end, check panel is plumb and screw-off bottom brackets.

Step 9

Clean down decking and oil or treat with product of your choosing. Clear or natural oils are ideal for enhancing colour and grain of most hardwoods. Treated pine can be sealed with clear oil or use a tinted product to mimic other wood colours. Select a water-based decking ‘oil’ as you’ll find them much easier to work with and clean up.

Step 10

On one end of our deck we decided to construct a raked privacy screen. This used the existing balcony posts and then a new post was added against the house wall. Timber was salvaged from the removed deck, cleaned and then painted with the same paint as the posts. This was an economical way to provide privacy and add a retreat feel to the deck.

Now you are finished you can enjoy the deck again. A little work takes your old deck from off-limits to a relaxing, chill-out zone that’s also perfect for entertaining friends and family.

Materials

Decking boards (we used 90 x 22mm ACQ treated pine decking boards)
Decking oil or sealer (we used Cabot’s Aquadeck)
Suitable decking nails or screws
Exterior paint for posts (we used Dulux Weathershield low-sheen)
Fence panels (we used 2400 x 900mm black, flat-top aluminium and brackets)
Exterior grade 50 or 75mm hex-head timber screws (for handrail brackets)

Tools

Crowbar
Hammer
Drill-driver with bit for pre-drill and screwing
Spacing tool
Paint tray
Decking paint applicator
Nail gun with exterior nails
Paint brush or roller

Images

How to cook brisket

MoonshineBen — Thu, 12 Sep 2019 05:52:34 GMT

How to build a raised garden bed

Adam_W — Mon, 18 Nov 2019 22:26:39 GMT

Difficulty: Expert

Raised garden beds are extremely popular for growing vegetables and flowers. When designed and built well, they can look brilliant and become a real feature of your backyard.

Here’s how to build a fantastic planter-box style raised bed that you can adjust in size and height to meet your needs. The design even includes an optional seat for when you want to take a break and enjoy the garden.

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Video Tutorial

Steps

Step 1

Decide on the location for the bed. For vegetables or flowers it will need to be a sunny spot with good wind protection. Our position is beside an elevated deck area.

The techniques used to construct this bed mean that you will not require engineering-grade footings. The main posts only need to be deep enough in the ground to provide stability during construction and to stop any settling. You could build this project on a hard, level surface such as a courtyard without needing to sink footings.

Step 2

Set-out for the post locations and dig post holes to around 300mm deep. Measure and cut a 75mm sleeper for the centre post, concreting it in place. As ours was against an elevated deck we used a sleeper offcut as a temporary spacer to get positioning correct. Cut and position the two end posts and concrete them in place.

The posts in this project are internal (concealed) behind the boards on the external face. If your bed is to have a split height like ours and the upper and lower beds are to be of equal size, then the centre post will need to be offset from centre biasing towards the high end to allow 50mm for fitting the centre end-boards on the outside edge. All end posts will also need to be offset 50mm towards the centre to allow for end-boards.

Tip: Using a long level and clamps makes it easier to get the correct alignment and height.

Step 3

Once the three front posts are in place, add runs of uncut sleeper face-boards. Remember to check level of each before securing to posts with construction screws.

Tip: Using a drop-saw is the fastest and easiest way to ensure accurate cuts.

Step 4

Using the three secured posts as a guide to measure out for the opposite posts. Cut, position and concrete in the remaining three posts for the opposite face. Cut a 1000mm sleeper length for an end board, put in place aligned with lowest face board. Check level, screw in place to both posts and use this as a height guide for face boards on the opposite side. Repeat the assembly process used for the first face, cut and add face-boards to elevated section then add all end-boards on one end only.

Using a tape and level, mark a line around the inside of each bed section approximately 350mm down from the top edge. Measure along the marked lines and cut support rails from sleepers to fit. Fix in place with construction screws. You’ll also need to add small blocks as rails to the internal posts.

Step 5

The distance from side to side on top of the rails should be 1000mm (less at posts). Cut the sleeper lengths to fit as base-plates for bed. You may need to trim or rip a sleeper down to fit the last space. Position the base plates and screw to rails leaving a gap of 3- 5mm between each plate for drainage. When the first section is finished, add the end-boards as bed dividers between the high and low section before repeating the base plate process for the upper section. Once done add last external end boards.

Step 6

Cut drainage fabric to size as a bed liner. Make it large enough to lap up all sides and cover the sleeper joints before stapling it in place. Fill the bed with soil, add irrigation if desired and you’re ready to start planting your new garden bed.

Tip: Add a professional finish to the bed by using a hand-plane or shaper to bevel the sleeper edges.

Step 7

This is an optional addition, but a simple bench seat fitted to your raised garden bed will make gardening easier and give you a spot to relax.

On the bed face, mark the position for a seat supporting rail. The top of the rail should be around 350mm above ground level. Cut a 800mm length of 45 x 90mm treated pine as a support rail.

Counter-sink and pre-drill at least three holes along its length. Apply construction adhesive to rear. Position the rail against the line and check it is level before screwing in place with 100mm construction screws.

Step 8

Cut two pieces of sleeper to 980mm long. For a seat 300mm deep cut or rip one piece length-ways to reduce to 100mm wide. Lay pieces flat and clamp together ensuring ends are flush. Cut two pieces of 45 x 90 pine approximately 270mm long for cleat plates, then add a 45-degree bevel to one end of each piece. Counter-sink and pre-drill at least three holes in each, apply construction adhesive to top (long side), position with square edge flush with back edge and sides of clamped sleepers. Fix in place with construction screws.

Apply a bead of construction adhesive to the top of the rail on the wall and then position the seat panel. Pre-drill through the back of the seat panel into the rail or skew-drill into face sleepers of garden bed and then fix in place with 100mm construction screws.

Step 9

Cut lengths of decking for the side and front faces of the seat. You can butt or mitre-join these. Apply construction adhesive to the rear of the pieces and then nail or screw them in place. Cut decking for the top to 1040mm in length - this allows for approx 10mm overhang on each side. The front slat should also have a 10mm overhang. This may require the slat closest to the bed face to be ripped to size. Measure carefully and fit decking from rear to front. Apply construction adhesive and nail or screw decking down.

Add braces to add strength to your seat. Measure from the front of the underside to the bed face at a 90-degree angle. Cut two blocks of 90 x 45 treated pine to suit and then glue and screw in place around 50 to 100mm in from the edge on each side with construction screws.

Step 10

Clean down the seat to remove any dust and dirt and then apply a coat or two of decking oil and your new bed is all done.

Materials

This project uses treated pine. Any beds where food will be grown or where you are likely to have contact with the timber should be constructed from non-CCA treated timber. Any timber in contact with soil should also be at least H4 rated.

You should plan and build your bed to standard sizes to avoid wastage and reduce cutting. For example, sleepers come in 2.4m and 3m lengths so make your bed to a full sleeper length and the width of half a sleeper.

To build a bed the same size as ours, you will need:

20 sleepers measuring 200 x 50mm x 3m
4 sleepers measuring 200 x 75mm x 3m (for posts)
6 quick set concrete bags (1 per post)
75mm and 100mm Timber Construction Screws
Roll of drainage/filter matting
Soil, bagged or bulk
Exterior grade construction adhesive (optional)
Treated pine decking boards (optional)
90 x 45mm exterior treated pine (optional)
40mm ACQ safe treated pine countersunk screws (optional)
Water-based timber oil/stain (optional)
Wood Glue

Tools

Digging spade
Shovel
Tape measure
Long spirit level
Quick clamps
Drill driver
Large power saw or drop-saw
Shaper or block plane
Caulking gun (optional)
Nail gun with exterior nails (optional)
Paint brush (optional)

Images

How to tile a splashback

ProjectPete — Thu, 08 Aug 2019 21:58:17 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

Want to give your kitchen an inexpensive makeover? Whether you are selling your house or just want to give your kitchen a little facelift, one of the most cost-effective and simple methods is to replace the splashback.

In this article you’ll find everything you need to install a tiled splashback in a weekend of D.I.Y. fun that should cost you less than $100.

Preparation and patience will go a long way to ensuring you get the best finish possible. And bear in mind, if you’re going to lay mosaic tiles, it’s a similar process but you’ll need a special adhesive and a little more patience.

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Steps

Step 1

Measure your wall space to be tiled. When buying your tiles, add at least five percent extra for cuts and waste.

Take the time to properly tape up and protect your benchtop and floors. Use some old sheets or buy some cheap (ideally reusable) plastic to tape down to the benchtop.

Lay out your tools and materials in a way that will help you complete the job most cleanly and efficiently.

Step 2

Getting your first row of tiles level is key to ensuring you have the best finish. Remember to take into account any slope in your benchtop. Set a level line for the length of the wall being tiled.

If you have a gap between benchtops, you will need to temporarily fix a piece of wood to the wall to provide a guide to lay level tiles.

Step 3

Lay your first tiles by spreading adhesive on the wall with your notch trowel and pressing your tile onto it firmly. Use wedges to allow a small gap between your benchtop and the bottom of your tile. Place spacers between each tile - one near top of the tile and one near the bottom. Apply the same pressure when applying each tile to ensure a smooth finish.

Tip: To keep a constant flow, spread adhesive for the length of each row. And to avoid adhesive build-up in-between tiles which you have to clean out before grouting, wipe a pinky finger worth of adhesive away along adjoining edges of tiles before you lay each one.

Step 4

If you are laying your tiles brickbond you need to start your second row with a half length tile. Hold on to the offcut (other half) as you’ll be able to use it to finish that row or start your fourth row.

Stackbond is pretty self-explanatory - only requiring cuts on one end. But don’t underestimate the extra complexity of maintaining perfectly level rows and straight columns, as any discrepancies are far more noticeable compared to brickbond.

Step 5

Cutting around powerpoints and other obstacles doesn’t need to be difficult. Simply line up your tile, mark where the powerpoint is (accounting for enough space for the powerpoint to fit into the wall) and make your cuts with the angle grinder. Take your time especially with finer cuts - a small mistake can easily ruin the tile.

Step 6

Once you’ve laid all your tiles, give them at least 12 hours to dry before grouting.

Step 7

Clean the excess adhesive off your tiles with a plastic scraper and cloth.

Step 8

Once you’ve cleaned your tiles, mix your grout per the instructions on the packet with your drill and paint mixer. Getting the right consistency is key to an easier job and better finish.

Step 9

When grouting, it is important to avoid being too pedantic as the more you work each grout line, the more you risk actually ruining the final finish. Simply spread your toothpaste like grout over your tiles and into the gaps with your rubber grouting trowel. Once you’ve filled it all, run over your tiles fairly firmly with a damp jumbo sponge to remove excess grout ensuring a smooth grout line between tiles. You need to avoid a coarse/rough finish.

Now leave it to dry before giving it a final wipe down and clean up.

Step 10

Once you’ve cleaned up and your benchtop is dust free, apply a bead of silicone evenly along the bottom to fill the gap between benchtop and tile. It’s also a good idea to seal your grout to help protect it from stains.

Now step back and bask in the glory of your work and put any pennies you have left over into your next project.

Materials

Protective plastic or sheet for benchtop and floors
Painters tape
Tiles
Tile adhesive
Tile spacers
Tile wedges
Wet area silicone
Grout sealer

Tools

Ruler
Square
Tape measure
Small spirit level
Pencil or sharp felt-tip pen
Drill
Mixer
Bucket
Notch trowel
Angle grinder with tile/ceramic disc
Rubber grouting trowel
Cleaning cloth
Jumbo sponge
Wet tile cutter (Optional)

Images

How to renovate a caravan - Part 3

Peggers — Thu, 25 Jul 2019 22:16:42 GMT

How to style a caravan

Difficulty: Intermediate

Once you have renovated the inside and outside of your van, the hard graft is done and your dream home on wheels is almost complete. Now it’s time to have fun and become an interior designer, putting the finishing touches to style your van.

This article shows you how to decorate your van. Don’t miss Part 1: How to buy a retro van and Part 2: How to fix an old caravan.

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Steps

Step 1

The floor is your first opportunity to start putting your creative stamp on the van. If the floor tiles are in reasonable condition, you could lay something over the top of them. Otherwise pull them up and take the van back to bare wood. You can buy inexpensive timber-look vinyl flooring from Bunnings. The sheets are easy to install and can be cut to size with a utility knife. There is a large range of wood effects depending on the look you want to create.

Step 2

To really bring the outside paint job to life, silver spray paint is needed on the windows and caravan edging. This is a fiddly job but well worth it. Tape up the windows and the metal edging all the way around the van. It may take a couple of hours to do the whole van and you’ll need a few newspapers and rolls of tape. With even spraying from around six inches away, cover all of the edges and the window frames. The silver contrast with the rest of the colour scheme takes the van to the next level.

Step 3

Add silver trims where your two different colours meet in the middle of the van. It’s really hard with either the spray or roller approaches to get perfect lines, and by adding some silver trims you can cover any imperfections but also add some extra style. I use the silver ripple trim strips used for edging carpet as they fit perfectly to the van’s contours. Cut them to size with a hacksaw and then screw in place. Caravan bling!

Step 4

A splashback above the new kitchen benchtop will help complete your kitchen. There are two approaches that I take here. One is to get coloured acrylic sheets cut to size and then glue and screw in place. Bright colours can really lift a kitchen. The alternative is to tile the splashback area. Normal lightweight kitchen tiles with mesh backing are best, which you can cement on and grout for a classy look. It’ll depend on the style of van and the look you’re going for, but both give a great finish.

Step 5

Timber panels and trims are another way to give the van a classy finish. You can buy cheap wood panels that are very lightweight and normally used for cladding. By painting these lightly with white undercoat and sanding back, you get a vintage effect. If a ceiling is very rough with imperfections then these wood panels are a great way to cover faults and create a new feature. The back of seating can also become a real talking point. You can buy L-shaped wood edging fairly cheaply to finish off cupboards or areas where the caravan is slightly worn. Not only does it cover blemishes, it also gives a wonderful finish.

Step 6

The first two caravans I renovated had curtains; and for certain vans this is the way to go. If you want a 50s rock and roll look, then nothing beats red and white gingham. The problem with curtains is that you need to buy the material and get them made to fit by someone with sewing skills. You also need to fit curtain rods and hooks. It’s a long and fiddly process. More recently I’ve used blinds and for roughly the same price, you get a more modern effect and you can do the whole van in less than two hours. Bunnings do a great range of inexpensive blinds in sizes to fit most vans.

Step 7

Try to retain the van’s original lights, but it can also be good to add some new lighting as a feature. A hanging light above the table in the living area looks really stylish. One other neat little touch is to add LED strips inside of cupboards to create a soothing effect at night, or to add stick on LED touch lights under kitchen cupboards as a cheap form of down lighting. There’s no limit on your creativity here, just your budget and imagination.

Step 8

Hopefully your van will have an original table that folds down to form an extra double bed. But if not, it is fairly easy to fashion one. In the same wood you used for kitchen work benches, get a piece of pine cut to size at Bunnings. You can then get screw in legs for less than $10 each to attach to the bottom with plates. This is such an easy and intuitive set up – unscrew the legs and stow away at night to make the bed (it’s a three-minute job). Then reattach the legs in the morning for breakfast.

Step 9

The van is almost complete. But one additional important touch is to replace cupboard door and drawer handles. Bunnings offers a huge range of shapes and materials depending on the look you want, and these come in multi-packs to cut costs. If you can selvedge the old handles then it’s good to have some original fixtures, but otherwise have a play with different styles.

Step 10

Finally it’s time to dress the van and your styling skills can really go wild. Raffia baskets, plants, mirrors… just add whatever you like to finish your van. Bunnings has great accessories for storage and styling. And don’t stop inside – get a small outside fire pit and a couple of stylish deckchairs to complete your home away from home.

Materials

Adhesive floor tiles
Spray paint
Sandpaper
Masking tape
Screws
Silver carpet edging strips
Kitchen tiles
Cement
Grouting
Wood panels
Wood trims
Liquid nails
Blinds
Hanging lamp
LED light strips
Table legs
Door handles

Tools

Screwdrivers (flathead and Philips)
Utility knife
Hacksaw
Hammer
Electric drill

Images

How to renovate a caravan - Part 2

Peggers — Thu, 25 Jul 2019 04:56:38 GMT

How to fix an old caravan

Difficulty: Intermediate

Don’t let a lack of confidence or experience stop you from taking the plunge and enjoying the freedom of owning your own caravan. It can be relatively easy and inexpensive to buy a retro van and renovate it yourself.

This article shows you how to renovate the van. Don’t miss Part 1: How to buy a retro van and Part 3: How to style a caravan.

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Steps

Step 1

Before any other work is done, you should seal your van to ensure there are no leaks. Even if there don’t seem to be any apparent problems, it’s good to take extra care. Before you spend any time working inside the van, you certainly want to make sure your work won’t be wasted if the rain gets in. If there are any damp patches inside then you’ll know that these areas need special attention.

Using something like Selleys No More Gaps and a gap gun, seal all the way round the external top of the van’s edges and across any seals on the roof. Also make sure it’s covering any screw holes. If anything looks even remotely like a crack or gap, then seal it. Likewise check out any holes or screws on the side of the van and any gaps around windows. Keep a wet cloth on hand to keep spreading the filler evenly to give a good finish. Remember that No More Gaps can’t be sanded afterwards, so keep it moving and smooth it while it’s still moist. You can also paint the roof with a decent sealing paint for extra insurance.

Step 2

There are two ways to paint the exterior of your van, but whichever one you choose you need to undercoat. Use a good quality oil-based white undercoat with a roller and spread evenly. Strongly consider two coats - you need to ensure that whatever finish you choose isn’t going to flake or peel later.

One option is to spray it. Tape the windows and edges with masking tape and newspapers, and spray evenly with spray paint cans from Bunnings.

I prefer to use an oil-based paint with high quality rollers. If you mix in some turps and Penatrol to thin the paint a little it will spread more evenly and settle nicely when you roll it. It’s an easy and cheap method and gives a spray-like effect. Try to ensure you don’t paint on a hot day as the paint can get tacky, affecting the finish.

Step 3

Although the tow bar doesn’t need to be pristine, it will generally need to be cleaned up and painted. Usually there is a load of surface rust that needs to be cleaned up and treated. A decent wire brush and sand paper will get the worst off. Then treat it with some sort of rust remover and sealant. Once that’s done, paint on an enamel paint: use white, black or silver depending on your colour scheme for the van. If the jockey wheel needs replacing, these can be bought from Bunnings.

Step 4

The caravan’s wheels will often need work. Use a wire brush and sandpaper to tidy them up, seal them to stop the rust coming back, and then spray them with silver paint. Tape up the tyre with masking tape and newspaper. One can of silver spray paint from Bunnings will easily do two wheels. If you feel adventurous, then with extra taping and creativity, then you can spray a colour in the centre of the wheel that matches the colour scheme. You can also get some wet look tyre shine spray to make the rubber look as good as new.

Step 5

How you treat the internal walls will depend on the sort of caravan and the state the walls are in. My goal is usually to get the walls as smooth as possible and then paint them white to give the van a fresh feel. On one van I renovated, the wood finish was so clean and in such good condition that I left it as a wood effect and added paint elsewhere. Leaving the wood gave a modern, mid-century feel. In most cases though there will be chips to the walls that need filling and sanding before painting. The worst case scenario is that the walls are so badly damaged that you need to strip off the wood veneer and start again. In this instance, you will need to buy MDF panels to cut to size. Attach the panels to the van using Liquid Nails and some screws, and then fill and seal the gaps. It can look messy before you are finished, but as long as everything is smooth then the paint will ensure a great finish.

Step 6

It’s very rare that the windows of an old van are in perfect condition. Usually one or two will need replacing. Instead of using glass, you can get clear acrylic sheets and cut to size. The sheets normally slot in easily after a couple of screws are loosened on the window frame. They may need some beading around them afterwards to avoid rattles, but the effect is clear and clean and is much stronger and lighter than glass.

Step 7

Internal cupboard doors are often tired-looking inside an old caravan, but usually salvageable. Your best approach is usually to take them all off and unscrew the hinges. Fill, sand and then undercoat the doors with an oil-based paint. Then paint them in white or your colour of choice using a quality roller. Clean up the hinges with sandpaper and spray them silver with the paint left over from the wheels. Then reassemble everything and refit the doors.

Step 8

To bring the kitchen to life and give a modern feel, it’s good to replace the work tops with some fresh timber and install a round aluminium sink to replace the old-fashioned sink. For around $90 you can get a cute sink in Bunnings and the timber yard will cut your timber to size. Cut out the sink hole with a jigsaw and seal the sink in place, then varnish the tops a few times to bring them to life.

Step 9

Before painting the van inside, make sure that everything is gapped and filled. Take a gap gun and filler and carefully inspect the van a square metre at a time, looking for holes, dents and any places where wood has separated. Ensure a smooth surface with sandpaper. It will look messy until you paint, but you want everything solid and free from splits.

Step 10

Give the inside of the van a complete undercoat. Two coats of an oil-based undercoat is best. Then add a top coat of white-semi gloss paint and have a careful look at the entire van again to see if any more sealant or filling is needed. Give everything a good sand, and then apply two more coats of white semi-gloss.

By this stage, the van should be clean, fresh and reinvigorated. But it will still be something of a blank canvas. In Part 3, you’ll find tips and tricks to decorate and style the refreshed van.

Materials

Gap filler
Sealing paint
Filler
Sandpaper
Oil-based white undercoat
White semi-gloss paint
Coloured gloss paint
Turpentine
Penatrol
Spray cans
Rust treatment
Masking tape
Liquid nails
MDF panels
Acrylic sheets
Screws
Timber benchtop
Small sink
Varnish

Tools

Paint brushes
Paint rollers
Paint trays
Wire brush
Gap gun
Screwdrivers (flathead and Philips)
Jigsaw
Small hacksaw
Electric drill

Images

How to renovate a caravan - Part 1

Peggers — Thu, 25 Jul 2019 04:55:09 GMT

How to buy a retro caravan

Difficulty: Intermediate

A retro caravan can offer the freedom to relax and get away from it all, whether you tow it to a gorgeous holiday spot or leave it in the backyard.

This article shows you how to ensure you buy the right van to renovate. Don’t miss Part 2: How to fix an old caravan and Part 3: How to style a caravan.

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Steps

Step 1

First of all, you need to buy a retro van that’s within a reasonable budget. As a rule of thumb, vans from the 1980s or earlier shouldn’t cost more than $5000 for the whole project – that includes buying the van, restoring it and getting it registered.

Normally I try and find retro vans for around the $2000 mark, which allows $500 for on-road costs and $2500 for a complete renovation and fit-out, which includes everything from paint and materials to lighting and homewares.

If you can find a van in great condition that’s already registered and just needs a quick paint job, then $4000 could be an upper limit. But equally, if it’s a shell on wheels then you might try and pay $500 and decide to kit out the whole thing from scratch.

Step 2

Make sure the caravan you’re buying can be towed straight away. That might seem obvious, but if a van is cheap enough then you may be tempted to use a flatbed truck to get the van home and try to mobilise it later. But I’m not a mechanic and don’t want to be fixing axles and wheels (or even changing tyres, to be honest…) Ideally, try to buy something that’s within a 50km radius and tow it home. Make sure you ask questions about when it was last towed and how far.

Step 3

You can legally tow a van even if it hasn’t got a current registration. In all states of Australia (and also in New Zealand) you can obtain an Unregistered Vehicle Permit for a specified time. This is a low-cost way of getting a caravan home. In the longer term, you will need to get a certificate of roadworthiness that ensures it is safe to be towed – these are valid for 12 months. It’s best to do that after your renovation, rather than have the rego run down while you’re working on the van and can’t use it on the roads. Having said that, if you’re intending to keep the van on the road while you restore it (rather than in a driveway or garage) then you’ll need the rego straight away to avoid being fined.

Step 4

Don’t worry if the caravan’s outside lights and indicators don’t work. You can buy a trailer light board to tie on the van for around a hundred bucks. It’ll be enough to get you home. In my experience, outside lights are usually relatively easy to fix. New bulbs and perhaps a new 12-pin plug are often all that is needed and are relatively cheap. Check the connections and you should be good to go – it’s usually an hour’s work at most.

Step 5

It is a much bigger concern if the electrics inside don’t work. Take an extension lead and spare household lightbulbs with you when you go to see the van, and ask to plug it into mains power. Mending a simple connection for the tail lights is one thing, trying to rewire the inside of a van is another. Try flicking a few lights on and plug in something like a phone charger to a few sockets (or better still, a power outlet tester plug). Updating lights to more modern models is straightforward, but a full rewiring takes time.

Step 6

Is the caravan structurally sound? Above everything else, make sure the underneath bars aren’t rusty and that there are no major dents or holes. You can fix so many things inside and outside the van, but it needs to be a solid base. Also check if the water tank underneath is good. It can be replaced, but it’s such a painful and fiddly job. Surface rust is fine – it can be scrubbed off with a wire brush, covered with rust sealant, and then sprayed over in white, silver or black. But any extensive rusting of the framework should to be avoided.

Step 7

Don’t worry about the interior too much. Floors can be easily covered with new stick on tiles fairly cheaply. Bunnings has an excellent range; MDF sheets can tidy up walls and ceilings. New cupboards can be fitted to replace old ones. It’s amazing what you can do with just soap and water. And then No More Gaps and some white undercoat paint can work wonders. Even an empty shell can be renovated as long as it’s solid. Likewise, the outside paintwork can be cleaned up whatever state it’s in – dirt, graffiti, you name it. But major dents or holes are hard to knock out pleasingly or fill perfectly, so avoid vans with major bodywork problems.

Step 8

Don’t be scared by leaks. Even water damage isn’t terrible. It may look like the symptoms of a bigger problem (and occasionally is) but we’re only talking about a room on wheels here, rather than a house. I usually seal every joint outside on the roof with No More Gaps to make sure it’s water tight whether it’s leaked in the past or not. You can make everything watertight within a couple of hours.

Step 9

Furniture and appliances and easily replaced. You can replace sinks, cookers and taps if you need to. You can completely gut the van from scratch and start again if you like. But obviously the more that works the better, as it’ll speed up the project and make things cheaper. It’s handy if cupboard doors and handles are salvageable as they retain that retro feel and can blend nicely with the modernisation.

Step 10

While doors and windows can be fixed, it’s far better if they’re in working order when you buy the van. While you can fix most interior stuff from Bunnings, the latches on doors and windows are specialist caravan ones and replacing them gets expensive. You can fabricate stuff from metal and plastic but it’s hard. I once used a garage lock to fix a caravan door and you may need to get creative with solutions to save cash.

With all that in mind and your caravan towed home – it’s time to renovate! Another 10 tips will follow in the next instalment…

Materials

Rope
Household light bulbs (bayonet and screw-in)

Tools

Screwdrivers (flat head and Phillips)
Torch
Power outlet tester plug
Trailer light board
Extension lead

Images

How to build a fire pit

Adam_W — Mon, 17 Jun 2019 05:42:32 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

Our gardens and outdoor spaces are increasingly becoming both entertaining and chill-out zones. A fire pit can make a great addition to a back yard. A well-designed fire pit provides a brilliant space to come together with friends and family, and can work as a decorative element in the landscape. Here’s an easy fire pit project you can build.

This fire-pit uses a small slab as the base, a circular support, or well, of brickwork and a removable rustic fire-bowl. You can modify the techniques used to suit your needs and materials. It’s a project of two parts as you’ll need to lay the slab first before adding the brickwork. We have mixed our concrete from scratch however you can just buy bagged, pre-mixed concrete. Estimate the concrete volume required by multiplying width by length by depth to obtain a cubic volume measurement. The brickwork will be a circular fan pattern will large in-fills of mortar to create an interesting design.

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Steps

Step 1

The size of your fire-pit well determines the size of the slab. The well-size is the fire-bowl width (less its supporting lip) plus the length of two bricks. We allowed 1.16m - 700mm for the 750mm diameter fire bowl and 460mm for brickwork.

Position a peg where the centre of your fire pit will be, loop a stringline over the peg hold a can of set-out paint at ½ the width of the pit (58cm in our case) and then walk in a circle while spraying.

Step 2

Determine the set-out of one slab side, ideally this should be square with anything nearby such as a pathway or deck. Measure, position your straight edge and mark a line to the required length, our sides were 1.2m. Use builder’s square to set a right-angle for the next side, mark and repeat until complete.

Step 3

Measuring from the lowest side (if on a slope) excavate the area to a minimum depth of 100mm. Check the excavated area is roughly level using your level.

Step 4

Measure excavated area to check size, measure and cut formwork timber and created a square a butt-jointed box frame with internal measurement to match your desired slab size. Position frame and check it is square by measuring diagonals - front-left to rear-right and vice versa - these should be equal. Hammer in stakes at centre of each side on the outside of the frame. Check level on all sides and then use screws through formwork to secure to stakes.

Step 5

Measure and cut mesh to size, allow around 30mm in from all sides. Position in excavated area and place chairs underneath at regular spacings. The chairs will be notched with two height options. Select the higher 40mm one, this should leave the mesh around half-way up the formwork height. Use enough chairs to stop the mesh from sagging at any point.

Step 6

In wheelbarrow dry-mix concrete ingredients at a ratio of 1 part cement : 2 parts sand : 3 parts aggregate. Use the bucket to keep ingredient amounts accurate. Blend well and then slowly add water while continuing to mix. Add water a little at a time until you reach a consistency that is just pourable. Pour into the formwork working down with a shovel to remove air-pockets and repeat process until formwork is full.

Step 7

Once full, use straight-edge to bring to level removing any excess concrete. Allow to dry a little and then use a float to finish surface (or a coarse broom for a textured surface). Cover with builders plastic for at least 24-hours and then allow to cure for around a week before commencing stage 2. Formwork can be removed after around 2 to 3 days.

Step 8

Now that the slab is done, it's time to build the fire pit well. Position straight-edge from corner to corner each direction and mark lines to find exact centre of the slab.

Step 9

Position the fire bowl upside down on the slab and measure in from all four sides to position it in exact centre. Draw a line around the lip of the bowl. Remove bowl and dry-position the bottom course of bricks. To support the bowl their inside face should be around 2cm over the marked circle line. Position bowl on bricks to double-check. Remove bowl, mark on slab around the inside and outside edge of bricks before removing bricks.

Step 10

Using bucket to measure ingredients, make up a batch of mortar in wheelbarrow. The ratio is 1 part cement : 4 parts Brickie’s sand. Dry mix first and then add water slowly while blending. You’ll need a very stiff mix that holds shape well. With marked brick lines as your guide lay a bedding course of mortar and then start laying. Lay the first brick aligned with a side edge of the slab to make sure you are on-line from the start. Use a short level as you go to check that each brick is itself level and level relative to those beside it. Use tape measure to check.

Step 11

As you progress, gently pack the large wedge-shaped joints with mortar using your trowel to shave and shape the front edges. Layer a mortar bed on top of the first course and then commence laying the second course. Bricks should overlap so gaps alternate, not be stacked straight up. Repeat process for each course, we made ours three courses high.

Step 12

Once laying is complete trim excess mortar and pack extra mortar into any gaps. Allow to cure for time recommended on brick cleaning acid bottle. In a clean bucket mix up brick cleaning acid at recommended rates ensuring all safety directions are followed including wearing suitable safety equipment. Gently rub all bricks and mortar, this will clean surplus mortar from brickwork and smooth mortar.

Step 13

This last step is optional, but a timber surround can look fantastic.

Cut timber to make box-frame to surround slab butt-jointing together with construction screws.

Excavate around slab if required to accommodate frame. Position surround leaving it around 30mm proud of slab. Check level on each side. Secure with stakes if required, these should be hammered in on outside of frame to height where they won’t be visible.

Fill in the spaces created around edge with decorative gravel or pebbles. Our frame was a snug fit around the slab but you could make it larger if desired.

Materials

To create a concrete slab measuring 1.2m x 1.2m x 100mm, you will need:

20mm aggregate x 6 bags
Washed beach or Sydney sand x 4 bags
Cement x 3 bags
Mesh panel 1.8 x 1.2 with 100mm aperture, 5mm wire x 1
100mm x 2.4m treated pine fence palings
50mm treated pine screws
Mesh or reinforcing bar chairs 25/40mm x 8
Short timber stakes x 4
Aerosol set-out paint.

For the fire pit well, you will need:

Cement 20kg bags x 2 (we used off-white)
Brickies sand 20kg bags x 6 (we used yellow)
Bricks x 60 (we used white ‘chalk’ bricks)
Brick cleaning acid.

For the timber surround, you will need:

Timber (we used 50 x 200 x 2.4m treated pine sleepers)
100mm exterior bugle-batten or construction screws
Decorative gravel (we used medium/20mm washed river pebbles).

Tools

Wheelbarrow
Mattock
Digging spade
Shovel
Mixing hoe
Screed bar or straight-edge
Tape measure and spirit levels
Large builder’s square
Grinder or bolt cutter (to cut mesh if required)
Bucket
Brickie’s trowel
Straight edge
Builder’s pencil
Brick cleaning sponge (acid resistant)
Chemical resistant gloves
Safety glasses.