All How To posts

Re: How to build a desk

MitchellMc — Tue, 23 Feb 2021 01:51:25 GMT

A fantastic guide that is easy to follow . Well done.

I really like this desk's styling and would love to build something similar in the near future. I'll be following your instructions when I do.

Many thanks for sharing.

Mitchell

How to build a desk

Peggers — Tue, 23 Feb 2021 01:15:01 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

If you’ve been making do with the dining table while working from home, maybe it’s time to build a dedicated workspace.

This is a reasonably simple build - one that could help you progress further from beginner level, with a few new skills involved.

Inspiration for this How To guide comes from the Computer desk build by Bunnings Workshop member @Nham. Further inspiration was taken from the Rustic computer desk created by @jeevanfranciz.

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Steps

Step 1

Take the 1800mm x 90mm plank of Tasmanian Oak and measure and cut two pieces 405mm long for your sides and a 390mm section for the central divider.

Step 2

For the desktop, we want a smooth and clean finish, so the sides and divider should be attached using wood dowels and glue rather than screws.

Measure exactly corresponding holes - three will be enough - on the underside of the desktop, and the top of the sides and central divider. Be careful drilling into the desktop, as your holes should only be 10mm deep - just over halfway through. In the sides and divider you have more room to play with.

Insert the wood dowels with a small amount of wood glue on each, and attach the sides and central divider to the underside of the desktop.

. . .

Step 3

For the bottom of the desk, you can use screws rather than dowels. Screws are quicker, easier and won’t be seen.

Place the bottom panel of the desk on top of the sides and central divider in the correct position. Drill a hole through a corner of the panel into one of the sides and then secure with a 50mm screw. Then repeat for the rest of the side, the other side panel and the central divider.

This completes the main body of the desk.

Step 4

While the main body of the desk is still upside down, screw the table legs to each corner of the bottom panel. Measure 25mm in from the front and sides of the desk and screw the leg plate to the bottom of the desk - make sure this distance is uniform for all four legs.

Once attached, turn the body and legs over and the desk is really taking shape. In fact, you could finish at this point and varnish if you don’t want drawers.

. . .

Step 5

To make the drawers, first measure the entrance of the main body to see how big your drawer fronts need to be. If you’ve followed our instructions correctly, each drawer front should be 570mm long.

You’ll need four pieces of dressed pine 570mm long for the front and back of the drawers, and four pieces 360mm long for the sides.

Step 6

With the drawer front, back and sides complete, you need the base of the drawer. Cut your piece of 1200mm x 405mm x 18mm timber into two sections that are 530mm x 360mm. These need to be measured exactly so that they fit snugly in the centre of your drawer sides. In this instance that’s two pieces of wood 530mm by 360mm.

In the same way we joined the side panels and central divider to the desktop, we need to use dowels and glue to construct the drawer fronts, but the sides and back can use screws.

Start by attaching the sides, then screw on the back. When you have a firm structure, attach the drawer fronts with glue and dowels.

Check to see if your drawers fit correctly. If not, some light sanding might be required.

. .

Step 7

To finish the drawers, I reckon they look great with a vintage white effect to the fronts rather than just pine. You don’t need to paint the whole drawer, just the fronts. You won’t need a lot of paint, just one decent coat with a sample pot. When the paint has dried, take some fine grade sandpaper - 120 grit is perfect - and randomly sand back the paint to reveal underlying grains and create very small patches of wood. You get a weathered antique effect which will contrast really well with the dark wood of the desk body.

Finally, add the cabinet knobs to each drawer. Drill a hole through the drawer from the front, making sure you mark the exact centre of the front. Push the screw through and tighten the knob.

. .

Step 8

With the desk now complete you just need to add some varnish. It looks good if you varnish the body but leave the drawers matt to emphasise the contrast. You can add a dark stain to the desk body if you want to make the contrast even greater. Or equally you can varnish over the white vintage wood to give that a shine as well.

Your desk is now complete - just add a laptop and a mug of coffee!

. . .

Materials

2 Merbau Timber panels measuring 1200mm x 405mm x 18mm
1 piece of Dressed Tasmanian Oak measuring 1800mm x 90mm x 19mm
3 pieces of Dressed Pine 1800mm x 89mm x 19mm
1 piece of timber 1200mm x 405mm x 18mm
Pack of Timber Dowels
Pack of 50mm screws
Pack of chunky 12mm screws
Wood glue
250ml of Ultra Gloss Timber Varnish
250ml White sample pot of paint
2 cabinet knobs
1m sandpaper 120 grit
4 Hairpin table legs

Tools

Handsaw
Drill
Tape measure
Ruler or square
Pencil
Phillips screwdriver
Paint brush

Images

How to build a tiered plant stand

MitchellMc — Mon, 22 Feb 2021 00:36:34 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Save space by displaying your potted plants using this easy-to-build tiered plant stand.

The simple design makes it a fantastic project to build over a weekend. It requires minimal tools and woodworking experience.

This project is inspired by the popular garden planter stand by Bunnings Workshop member . Many thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us.

Steps

Step 1

Take your treated Pine sleepers and cut four lengths of 600mm and two lengths of 400mm using your circular saw. You will use these for the sides of the stand.

If you don’t have a circular saw you might like to take advantage of the timber cutting service at a Bunnings Warehouse.

. .

Step 2

Position the timber you’ve cut as per the image. Place one 600mm piece on the ground horizontally and the other 600mm and 400mm pieces vertically. Mark four locations per upright on the horizontal piece for the screws to be placed. Clamp your pieces before drilling to ensure they don’t move around.

. .

Step 3

Pre-drill the holes where you marked with the 8mm drill-bit and counter-sink those holes. Screw the timber together using the 75mm bugle head screws.

. .

Step 4

Start dry fitting the slats, spacing them evenly on the side panels. Ensure a gap is left between the boards for water drainage.

Step 5

Once you have the slats in position, pre-drill the ends with a 5mm drill-bit and counter-sink those holes. Now install the 40mm treated Pine screws, fixing the slats to the sides. Add a finishing slat to the top tier to prevent pots from falling off the top.

. . . .

Step 6

You can now coat your stand in your choice of exterior stain and varnish to protect it from the elements.

You’ve now completed an extremely functional pot stand that you can use to happily display your favourite plants.

. . .

Materials

2 x 200mm x 50mm treated Pine sleepers
10 x 75mm bugle head screws
100 x 8G x 40mm treated Pine screws
19 x 1.2m Cypress pickets
1L exterior varnish

Tools

Circular saw (if timber is not pre-cut)
Drill driver
5/8mm drill-bit
Counter-sink bit
Clamp
Paintbrush

Images

Re: How to build a fire pit

gns529 — Mon, 08 Feb 2021 02:31:48 GMT

So cool, and I love that there is step by step instructions

Re: Essential hand tools for D.I.Y. beginners

Noyade — Sun, 31 Jan 2021 23:04:56 GMT

They say: “Buy good quality and a variety of sizes. Don't use them as hammers!” @Noyade

Since I typed that - I am now the proud owner of a Kincrome "Shammer" - combined shifter and hammer. 😃

Shifting and Smacking

Re: Essential hand tools for D.I.Y. beginners

TedBear — Mon, 01 Feb 2021 09:32:36 GMT

May I add that another good use for a knife is for making cleaner cuts when using a saw. If you run the knife along your cut line on the face that you will see and then saw along it on the waste side of the line, the knife cut will provide a clean (pre-cut) edge, whereas a saw blade can shatter the wood fibres and give a fuzzy edge. [While on the subject of clean cut saw edges, if you want a clean cut on the bottom surface when using a circular saw, set the saw depth to protude less than one tooth depth (unless using a very fine tooth saw). That way the teeth slice neatly along the cut line instead if smashing upward through it breaking the edge as it does so.]

Also, the pliers I was referring to in the article as Life Savers are Snap-lock pliers. They can do so much more than ordinary pliers.

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Sat, 30 Jan 2021 00:33:09 GMT

I'll be looking to following along with your build and seeing your results .

Please let us know if you need further assistance or had questions. We're here to help.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

Nessa — Sat, 30 Jan 2021 00:27:55 GMT

Thank you for clarifying the screw type for me.

I was thinking the same as you regarding the stand. The pallet support posts could be used.

Hopefully it will still look as good as yours.

Thanks

Nessa

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 06:10:39 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's terrific that you've joined us, and many thanks for your question.

Buildex 10-8 x 65mm Climacoat® 3 Countersunk Rib Head Treated Pine Screws - 50 Pack were the screws used in the project.

An issue with raising this style garden bed is that there's no bottom to it. You could add the pallet boards to the bottom, but that will be some weight they're supporting. If you were to build legs, I would suggest constructing them from solid timber, and perhaps you could use the runners from a spare pallet. Wet soil is quite heavy and the unit would need to be well supported.

There are quite a few options for raised garden beds that you might like to look through.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

Nessa — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 05:44:09 GMT

Hi Mitchell and all,

Excuse my ignorance, I am an absolute beginner.

When searching for the treated pine screws there were 10-8 × 65mm in results. Are these the same as what you used for the garden bed?

Also, I would like to make the garden bed on a basic stand . Bad back. How would I work out if the wood stand would be strong enough to support a filled garden bed?

There was a lot of would wood in the question, feels there should be a woodchuck thrown in.

Any advice from experienced folk on my questions would be appreciated.

Essential hand tools for D.I.Y. beginners

Peggers — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 04:05:32 GMT

Want to get started with D.I.Y. projects but don’t know where to start? Here’s a helpful list of every hand tool you should need.

We explain what you need, why you need it, and provide tips from some of Bunnings Workshop’s most trusted community members.

This helpful advice from is also worth keeping in mind: “My advice for all beginners is to do your research before purchasing anything. Everyone’s D.I.Y. journey is different, so it’s important you purchase the tools best for you.”

If you need any advice, don’t hesitate to ask. We’re here to help.

Hammer

What: A wooden or plastic handle with a weighted metal head that is rounded at one end, with a fork-like claw at the other.

Why: Used for driving nails into wood or removing nails with the claw end. Aside from your D.I.Y. projects, most flatpack furniture will almost always have a laminate panel that needs tacking onto the back with small nails.

They say: “The humble hammer is one of the most versatile tools and a must for all newbies. It builds, it breaks, it nails, and de-nails. It aligns, it forces. It makes dents or removes them. The hammer is so versatile that we have a saying in New Zealand: ‘If it can't be fixed with Number 8 wire and a hammer, it can't be fixed at all’.

Phillips screwdriver

What: This the screwdriver with the pointed cross shape at the end.

Why: Most people use Phillips screws because you can get a tighter fit than with flathead screws. Almost all projects require screws, and most screws are Phillips, so this is an absolutely essential piece of kit. It’s worth getting a selection of different sizes.

They say: “A Philips screwdriver is probably the most used tool in my possession - caravans have screws everywhere!”

Flathead screwdriver

What: The screwdriver with the straight flat tip.

Why: Older pieces of furniture tend to have flathead screws, which were the norm in the past, and so you’ll need this alongside your Phillips. It is also used as paint tin opener!

They say: “The Kincrome Ratchet Screwdriver is my choice, it comes with multiple bits that store in the handle and it has a reasonable grip. Much less brutal than an impact driver when the material may be a little fragile and some feel is needed to prevent stripping the screws.”

Tape Measure

What: A flexible and retractable steel ruler for measuring lengths.

Why: Whether wood, metal, carpet or glass, you need to have measurements for any project. Things need to line up and fit together.

They say: “A good retractable tape measure with a long ‘Standout’ (ability to extend without bending), is essential… if the specs don’t mention the standout you will be frustrated when you need to measure anything away from you.”

Utility knife

What: Also known as a Stanley knife or craft knife, this is a sharp cutting tool comprising a handle with a small retractable razor blade.

Why: Used for cutting materials such as vinyl flooring, carpet or plastic sheeting, you can get a deep, straight, thin and accurate cut.

They say: “Handy for getting into packaging and trimming up your masking for painting while the blade will retract to go safely into your toolbox.”

Handsaw

What: Also known as a panel saw, this is a solid flat cutting tool with a serrated edge.

Why: This is for cutting (sawing) through wood and timber. At some stage you could also add a jigsaw for smaller, more intricate cuts.

They say: “A handsaw gives you more options for projects - you don’t need to buy wood in an exact size if you can cut it yourself.”

Adjustable wrench

What: Also known as an adjustable spanner, this is a wrench that can change the size of its opening.

Why: Almost always used to tighten or loosen nuts and bolts.

They say: “Buy good quality and a variety of sizes. Don't use them as hammers!”

Pliers

What: They look like chunky scissors, but pliers have opposing jaws to grip, rather than cut.

Why: Used mostly for gripping, such as when tightening bolts, but also to remove items such as nails or screws from wood by gripping, twisting and pulling.

They say: “Pliers are ‘life-savers’ that can rescue many situations, such as removing a chewed out screw head or nail with no head left on. Just grab the top of the item and twist, or lever it out. Also great for holding things more powerfully than your fingers can while drilling, bending, etc.”

Spirit Level

What: Using an air bubble in liquid as the indicator, a level is used to show how parallel or perpendicular a surface is.

Why: Used on a variety of D.I.Y. projects, but especially when building decks or tables to ensure a flat, even surface.

They say: “Underated at first but critical if you aren't a fan of wonky things. This for me is a must have me has improved my accuracy game... While also ensuring all photo frames hung are level”.

Square

What: An L-shaped ruler used for drawing perpendicular lines at measured intervals.

Why: In theory you can measure both sides of a plank of wood, mark dots and then join them with a ruler, but there always seems to be some inexactness to that. A square will give you perfect lines at right angles every time.

They say: “Highly recommended, great for marking your cut lines so that everything will line up later on”

Paint brushes

What: A tool with a handle and bristles used to apply paint.

Why: Either for paint, stain or varnish, you’ll need a brush to apply the finishing touches to a project. Wide brushes for big surfaces, narrow brushes for deft touches. And a dry brush to flick away dust before you start painting or varnishing.

They say: “Some may think all paint brushes are the same but over the years I’ve learnt that they defiantly are not and you really do get what you pay for. The better quality the brush the better the finish will be. Also when choosing a brush, find one that is specifically designed for the purpose you are want to use it for. For example, what type of paint you are using, or if you are using it to cut in corners. Find a brush that suits that purpose.”

Clamps

What: Call it a C-clamp or a G-clamp, this is an adjustable grip for holding things steady.

Why: Ideal for holding things together while the glue sets between them, or sometimes just an extra pair of hands for holding something in place while you work on it.

They say: “Never has a tool been more useful when making boxes or picture frames. This tool is indispensable when you are by yourself and need to join two pieces of timber to create the first join of one side of a box or cabinet.”

Putty knife

What: Also referred to as a paint scraper, this is a thin, flat, metal edge with a wooden handle.

Why: You need a putty knife for scraping wallpaper from walls, paint from wood, plaster from concrete, or any surface that needs scraping clean as part of preparation. It can also be used for applying filler or plaster.

They say: “While the 5-in-1 or 7-in-1 scrapers are the flavour of the month if you are trying to fix an old-style window and you don't have a glazier’s finger skills, a putty knife is great for removing old lose putty and with some practice replacing it, also good to use for filling wood.”

File

What: Long steel tool with a roughened surface used for abrasion.

Why: Some materials are too tough to be smoothed with sandpaper and need something stronger to break down the edges. And sometimes when something doesn’t quite fit perfectly, a file can reduce the size minutely - a cut with a saw might be too big.

They say: “Get all the cross-sectional shapes available and buy good quality.”

Ruler and pencil

What: Just like in your school pencil case - a 12-inch steel rule and a lead pencil.

Why: Every project needs marking and measuring - and a pencil and steel ruler are your best friends.

They say: “Pencil marks can easily be sanded or wiped off. Pen can be permanent.”

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Re: How to replace a flyscreen

Pixie — Sun, 24 Jan 2021 22:12:47 GMT

Hi Mitchell

The only option to replace flyscreens is with frame still fixed in place. Those rivets, some are up top. Not accessible unless I want to pull roller shutters down. Thank you for your support.

Re: How to build a pallet bar

MitchellMc — Sun, 24 Jan 2021 05:03:48 GMT

Great project and instructions ! Now to convince my wife that we have a need for a bar.

Mitchell

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

MitchellMc — Sat, 23 Jan 2021 22:41:49 GMT

Hi ,

I'm sorry to hear you are having issues. Perhaps you might like to show the rivets' locations, and we might advise how to access them. If the roller shutter completely covers them, then there are not too many options. Where is the spline which retains the fly screen located and can you access it with the screen fixed in place?

Mitchell

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

Pixie — Tue, 26 Jan 2021 23:19:47 GMT

Hi guys,

I think these screens are going to drive me crazy. We have roller shutters, the top of roller shutter blocks access to screen. It shouldn't be a problem but the security screens are riveted on through window frame. At this rate the only way to replace them will be whilst they are still on the window frame.

you can see in pic the panel of roller shutter

How to build a pallet bar

Peggers — Thu, 21 Jan 2021 03:47:56 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

There’s something warm and inviting about a bar, drawing people around and sparking great conversations. How good would it be to have your own bar for entertaining friends and family?

This pallet bar is cheap and easy to make. It only requires two pallets and virtually no dismantling required.

Inspiration for this project came from the Service bar made by the pallet maestro @Yorky88. Some of Marty’s other bar creations have also influenced the design, including this very popular creation, this bar with built-in coolers, and this rustic version.

Sponsored Post

Steps

Step 1

Choosing pallets isn’t rocket science, but for this project it would help if you had two pallets the same size, shape and type of wood. Newer, lighter-coloured and lighter-weight wood pallets tend to be easier to work with. The older the pallets, the more twisted and gnarled the nails might be, making them harder to dismantle.

There are a few ways to dismantle pallets, which has been a popular topic of Bunnings Workshop discussion in the past. @MitchellMc gives some great advice on how to take apart pallets in this post, while @Brad shares a great video in this post. Fortunately, this project does not require a lot of dismantling. You just need to remove the boards from the back of one of the pallets – with most pallets that’s only four boards in total.

Step 2

To prepare the wood, take a file and scrape off the splinters that tend to hang along the edges of the pallet boards. It’s a quick job that can be done by just scraping your file along the edge of each board.

Then sand the top of each cross board using an electric sander with a medium grain paper such as 80 grit. With pallet furniture, especially the outdoor variety, you don’t necessarily need a super-smooth finish. If you do one side of the pallet at a time you can get a sense of how the wood is changing. You can sand by hand, but it is much quicker and easier with an electric sander.

Step 3

The front of the bar is an untouched pallet. There’s no need to do anything other than sand the wood and then stand it on its side.

Step 4

There is a really quick and simple way to make the sides of the bar without dismantling the pallet. Take the pallet that you have removed the back boards from. Mark a pencil line along the entire length of the central pallet runner. Then take a jigsaw and cut through these lines. Repeat on the other side of the central runner and you will be left with two sides for your bar.

Step 5

Attaching the sides should be fairly intuitive. Line them up with the front part of the bar and clamp one of the side panel boards to the side runner of the front pallet. Do the same to both sides and your bar should be taking shape.

Now drill two holes diagonally through the top side board and the supporting runner of the front pallet. Screw together with two timber screws. Then repeat this all the way down the side.

Step 6

There are a few different ways to complete the top of the bar. If your boards from the back of the side pallet are intact, then you can use them - although it’s nice if you can find wood that contrasts with the rest of the bar. Some dressed pine or rough timber is good if you have some around. I had the off-cut of a timber panel from another project that offered a good contrast. Your bar top needs to be 1.2m x 25cm.

You could get an invisible join by using wooden dowels and drilling holes halfway through the underside of the bar top. But because this is for out-side and I’m happy for it to look rustic, I just attached the bar top with timber screws. As the wood panel is soft, the screws are easily sunken.

Step 7

You can add a stain or varnish to your bar, or paint it according to your taste. For my bar I’ve used a gloss varnish on the bar top. A small 250ml pot will be more than enough. With only one coat, you can already see the contrast between varnished finished wood on top and lightly sanded bare wood on the structure. There are no rules, but if you’re going to leave the bar outside at all times in all conditions, then varnishing the whole unit would be recommended.

Step 8

It’s always good to customise a bar. You might like to add pictures or paint a slogan or name. I had an old drinks crate in the workshop and also added some retro ornaments.

One other addition to consider is an internal shelf below the bar top to store things on. This can easily be done by running wood from one side panel strut to its corresponding strut on the other side.

Hey presto - the bar is open!

Materials

2 Pallets
A piece of timber (1.2m x 25cm)
30-40 65mm timber screws
250ml of varnish

Tools

Hammer or wrecking bar
File
Electric sander
Electric jigsaw
2 clamps
Electric drill
Phillips screwdriver
Paint brush
Ruler
Pencil

Images

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

MitchellMc — Sun, 10 Jan 2021 01:34:52 GMT

Hi ,

It's great to hear you still have plans to complete your project. I'll be looking forward to those pictures.

Mitchell

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

MitchellMc — Sun, 10 Jan 2021 01:33:34 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fabulous to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

As far as I am aware, a plunger pin is normally not installed through the spline and shouldn't obstruct you from replacing the fly screen on a frame which has them installed. Is there a reason that you would like to remove them? The only way I know of removing them from the frame itself is to tap them out with a hammer in the reverse fashion in which they were installed. I believe this could potentially damage your frame.

If you could provide some more detail on why you wish to remove them and perhaps an image of them, we can assist further.

Mitchell

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

Pixie — Tue, 26 Jan 2021 23:20:21 GMT

Hi, sorry I haven’t been on for quite sometime. But I’m back. Still haven’t replaced fly screens on windows as yet. I’ll do pictures tomorrow. Total inside of 1 frame measurement is 1200mm x 1200mm. Screens look like they been riveted in.
We will drill rivets out unless someone can recommend another way to remove screen.
Sliding door security screens I know how to remove.

Re: How to replace a flyscreen

debmorant — Fri, 08 Jan 2021 20:59:14 GMT

My plunger pins go through the frame and spline. How do I get them out?

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Mon, 21 Dec 2020 23:13:01 GMT

It might be an idea to plant them more towards the front of the pot to keep them as far away from the wall as possible. You'd likely do this anyway for ease of viewing. Some succulents like Cacti, Aloes, and Agave do well in heat and would be more suited to this application.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Noyade — Mon, 21 Dec 2020 23:03:17 GMT

"Any idea what he is going to plant in there?"

The plan is succulents. Would they be OK next to on a hot brick wall (summer)?

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Fri, 18 Dec 2020 22:57:22 GMT

That looks amazing, !

I trust your son will be thrilled with the results. Any idea what he is going to plant in there?

Many thanks for sharing.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Noyade — Fri, 18 Dec 2020 22:45:30 GMT

G'day Mitchell!

Eventually got there, little fiddly - but it was a downsized version with larger pots. The brackets are 5mm steel plate bent with a heating torch and welded onto a smaller steel plate connected to the frame. Shouldn't come down when fully loaded.

It'll eventually be fitted to a brick courtyard wall.

Thanks for the mini-garden inspiration. 🙂

Re: How to fill a raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Fri, 11 Dec 2020 00:31:29 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fabulous to have you join us and many thanks for jumping into the conversation.

It would be terrific to hear more about your own raised garden bed project. We'd encourage you to let us know if you need any help along the way or if you'd like to share your results with us. I trust you'll find loads of inspiration within the community as our creative members are contributing their projects here all the time.

You might also like to check out our Top 10 most popular raised garden bed projects for some more great ideas.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a slimline spice rack

MitchellMc — Thu, 10 Dec 2020 23:09:21 GMT

There's nothing like a good beard. Unfortunately, I'm only sporting a belated moustache at the moment.

Your idea for shelving on wheels is fantastic and solves trying to plug the fridge in with the end of a broom handle. I bet it makes gaining access for cleaning a breeze too.

Many thanks for sharing and your compliments.

Mitchell

Re: How to fill a raised garden bed

Ange71 — Thu, 10 Dec 2020 08:47:17 GMT

Thank you all for the tips on filling raised garden beds, especially the tip about aggregate for drainage, economical potting mixes and compost additives.

Have taken note for the planter boxes I plan to build. 😎👍

Re: How to build a slimline spice rack

Noyade — Wed, 09 Dec 2020 00:02:18 GMT

For the space between the fridge and sliding door - I made shelving on wheels - so I can easily get to the fridge powerpoint.

Re: How to build a slimline spice rack

Noyade — Tue, 08 Dec 2020 23:58:10 GMT

Looks great Mitchell!

You seem to have aged immensely? Love ya beard!

The spice rack I made some time ago was like a football grandstand with layered seating. Clearly there are now too many spectators and not practicing COVID distancing.

A Mess

How to build a slimline spice rack

MitchellMc — Tue, 12 Jan 2021 22:56:13 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

Most people would love more kitchen storage, so ideas to maximise use of your precious space are always popular.

This slimline spice rack can fit neatly in a gap beside a fridge – often wasted space that does nothing except collect dust.

The inspiration for this popular project comes from Pull out storage to utilise space next to fridge, with credit to for the wonderful design.

Thanks also to @jessica_roesel, @keithT, @Pasan and @Prof for sharing your creations with us.

Steps

Step 1

Begin your project by cutting all the timber to length. Take four of your dressed Pine 89 x19mm and cut them in half at 90cm for the shelves. For the railings, cut the Pine dowel into 92cm lengths.

Step 2

Lay out your shelves and the two full-length sides. Position the first two shelves 23cm apart at the top, and then transition to 33cm apart for the bottom three shelves. Mark out on the side panels where the shelves top and bottom edges will go. Then mark out locations for the rail holes, 4.5cm above the top of the shelves mark and 1.5cm in from the edge of the side panels.

Step 3

Take a scrap piece of wood and create a guide by transferring the rail hole measurements onto it. Drill out these holes and then clamp the guide onto your side panel. You will drill into the side panel to a depth of 10mm. To achieve this, add 10mm to the thickness of your guide and then wrap some painter’s tape around the drill bit at that point. The tape will be an indicator that you are only drilling 10mm into the side panel, and the guide will keep your holes consistent.

Drill all the rail holes into the side panels. Drill three holes per shelf side with your 3mm drill bit. These holes will fall between the lines you marked earlier for the top and bottom of the shelf.

Step 4

Take one side panel and apply PVA glue both to the location where the shelves will fix, and to the shelf ends. Use three screws 8 x 50mm to secure one end of the shelves to the side panel. Some corner clamps can come in handy to keep the shelves perpendicular to the side panel. Insert the 8 x 50mm screws partially into the second side panel.

Step 5

Stand the unit on edge, so the shelves are vertical. Apply glue to the ends of the shelves and the dowels and to the additional side panel. Insert the dowels into the lower side panel. Take the remaining side panel and place it on top of the shelves and dowels.

Starting from one end, line up the dowels with the pre-drilled holes and tap the side panel into place with a hammer. A scrap block of timber will prevent the hammer marking the side panel as you tap it into place. Once the side panel is in place, secure all the screws into the shelves.

Step 6

Apply timber putty over all screws, and any joins that have gaps. Wait for this to dry and then sand back the excess putty. Apply a second skim coat of putty and then sand again when it is dry.

Step 7

Lay drop sheets to prevent drips and then use water-based enamel paint to coat your unit. You will need to apply a few coats to get an excellent finish. Wait for the paint to dry.

Step 8

Install your four casters onto the bottom of the unit. It would be best if you stepped the castors at the front slightly back, hiding them under it. Next, mark out the position of the handle at the height of your preference. Drill holes and install the handle with the screws provided.

Congratulations. You've now completed your hidden spice rack shelf. Enjoy filling it with an assortment of your favourite fragrant ingredients.

Materials

6 pieces of 1.8m dressed Pine 89 x19mm
12 pieces of Pine dowel 12.7mm 1.2m
42 screws 8 x 50mm
16 screws 8 x 18mm
500ml PVA glue
4 50mm castors
1 drawer handle
1 litre water-based enamel paint
Timber putty

Tools

Drill driver
12.7mm drill bit
3mm drill bit
Circular saw or mitre saw
Tape measure
Clamps
Hammer
Paint brush or spray gun
Painter's tape

Images

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Thu, 03 Dec 2020 22:44:41 GMT

Hi ,

I'm currently growing basil, oregano, thyme, tomatoes, carrots, lettuce, eggplant, zucchini and onions. I am happy with the amount of produce from such a small footprint.

I work on the same policy that the fewer issues you raise and the more you fix yourself, the less your rent gets increased. That's worked out for me pretty well so far over the 18 or so years of renting.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Thu, 03 Dec 2020 22:37:43 GMT

Hi ,

I've seen that design around before and absolutely love it. A bit of pre-planning about how to construct these items and how you'll fix them to structures without damaging the property is all that is needed. It's also worth considering what you can bring with you to the next property.

Please keep us updated on your build as I trust it will thrill our members to see your results.

Mitchell

How to feed your garden

Noelle — Thu, 03 Dec 2020 04:09:09 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Keeping your garden healthy and producing lots of flowers and delicious fruits, vegies and herbs sounds like a lot of work but it is really simple. All it takes is regular applications of plant food and (of course) plenty of water.

Lawns will also look better and be able to withstand challenging weather as well as foot traffic when fed at least once every season.

Follow our steps for how to feed your garden and it will be thriving in no time.

Sponsored Post

Steps

Step 1

There are many different types of fertiliser. What you use will depend on largely personal choice (organic, natural or inorganic) and the results you want.

Liquids and water-soluble crystals or powders are readily absorbed directly through leaves as well as roots via the soil. Their nutrients are immediately available and will give plants an instant boost when applied.

Granular or pelletised fertilisers are usually slow or controlled release formulations that gently and slowly release nutrients over an extended period, from a few weeks to up to 12 months.

A combination of both instant and long-term fertilisers is often the best solution for a great garden.

Step 2

Always ensure you use “garden” fertilisers on garden beds and “lawn” fertilisers on lawns. Don’t be tempted to use a one-size-fits-all approach – there are differences in formulation and nutrient values (NPK) and the way each type works. Lawn fertilisers are high in nitrogen to encourage lush leafy growth – perfect for grasses but not for flowering or fruiting plants!

“All Purpose” or “Balanced” fertilisers may be used throughout the garden but occasionally a specialised plant food may be preferred for specific types of plants, For example, camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas, magnolias and other exotic flowering shrubs may do better when a fertiliser formulated specially for these plants is used. It may be labelled as being ideal for acid-lovers, which all these shrubs are.

Fruit trees, especially citrus, may have better crops and greener leaves when a fertiliser with boosted iron and magnesium is used, while some vegies will have improved disease resistance when fed with fertilisers containing a high level of calcium.

Step 3

Check the weather before applying any food. Don’t fertilise the garden or the lawn when the daytime temperature is expected to exceed 30 degrees. Even on cool days, avoid feeding in the middle of the day when the sun is at its most intense. Either do it early in the day or wait for late afternoon.

Step 4

Having selected the type and formulation of fertiliser you wish to use in your garden or on your lawn, read the instructions on both front and back labels thoroughly before using. The risk of burning your plants or lawn is minimal when fertilisers are used according to the directions.

Damage generally occurs as a result of not reading labels. If you don’t understand the information or how to use the fertiliser, contact the manufacturer for assistance.

Step 5

If using liquid concentrates or water-soluble fertilisers that require dilution with water, measure out the exact amount required as per the label. Some bottle caps are marked as being 20ml or 50ml measures but if they are not, use a dedicated plastic medicine glass to measure liquids. Instructions usually advise adding a specified amount to a standard (9L) watering can. Fill with water, mix thoroughly and apply over the plants and soil as instructed.

If using ready-to-use liquids (hose-end bottles) click the bottle firmly on to the hose, turn the mains pressure tap on fully and then activate the sprayer as instructed on the label. The bottle should empty as the product is applied – if it doesn’t, there is a delivery problem. Check your hose fittings, the water pressure and whether you have switched the bottle on correctly.

Liquid and water-soluble fertilisers may be used every few weeks, if required.

Step 6

If using granular or pelletised slow/controlled release fertilisers, they are typically applied at rates specified in tablespoons per centimetres of height of plants. For example: 2tbl per 30cm of height. This means that 2 tablespoons of the fertiliser for every 30cm of a plant’s height should be spread over the roots on the dripline, which is an imaginary circle on the soil directly under the outer limit of the leaves or branches. This is where the feeding roots are located.

This is fine for individual shrubs but where plants are in rows, for instance in the vegie patch, the fertiliser should be applied in a band down either side of the row.

Gently fork the fertiliser into the soil so it is lightly covered – don’t disturb the soil deeply because you risk damaging the roots. Water only if the soil is dry – moisture isn’t necessary to activate the release of nutrients.

When feeding large garden beds with an abundance of shrubs or other plants, and application around each on isn’t possible, the fertiliser may be broadcast over the entire bed. Wash granules off plants and on to the soil with the hose.

Step 7

If feeding the lawn, the same principles apply. Again, please remember to read the instructions before starting.

Hose-on fertilisers are simple and quick to apply while more care is needed with slow release lawn foods.

Application rates are critical when using granular fertilisers. If you are too heavy-handed, there is a high risk of burning the grass due to too much nitrogen. If the label recommends using a fertiliser spreader, do so! Make sure it is set correctly and only add as much fertiliser to the hopper as you need to cover your exact lawn area in square metres – borrow the kitchen scales to weigh it out.

The time and effort taken to feed the garden and lawn regularly is well rewarded with healthy, productive plants.

Materials

Liquid or granular fertilisers of choice for garden and/or lawn

Tools

Gardening gloves
Measuring spoon (1 tablespoon recommended)
Plastic measure for liquids in millilitres
Watering can
Hose with standard fitting and trigger nozzle
Hand fork or hoe
Face mask (optional)

Images

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Prawns — Wed, 02 Dec 2020 06:32:02 GMT

Looks great! What are you growing in there Mitchell?

PS My last rental we kept the lawns beaut and did random repairs and improvements as well - we were there nearly a decade (before buying) and not once was our rent cost increased - and after a while the landlord actually told us to tell the real estate to bugger off when they turned up for quarterly inspections if we wanted to lol - as he knew we were taking care of his house as if it was our own.

I think the things we fixed and improved there - were well and truly paid for by the complete lack of rent increases over the years with the owner so happy, and when we actually bought a house - because we had done such a good job as renters - he allowed us to break 4 months of contract that we had left as renters without any penalty (really we should of paid that 4 months of rent out to finish the contract)

Can definatly pay off I reckon and adding your own touches also helps make a house a home

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Noyade — Wed, 02 Dec 2020 07:29:24 GMT

"I am a firm believer that just because someone rents it doesn't mean that they can't enjoy the property to its fullest."

Totally agree Mitchell. It looks really good. 👍

My middle son moved out a few months ago into a small flat that has a brick wall courtyard.

I recently saw this flower pot arrangement in a cafe and I'm gonna make it with large U shaped steel brackets so it hangs on his courtyard wall. No drilling required so he'll be able to lift it off the wall when/if he moves elsewhere. It's basically two layers of concrete mesh welded at a precise distance apart to support flower pots. I'll post photos when completed.

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Old-gal24 — Mon, 30 Nov 2020 12:04:40 GMT

Wish I'd seen something like this last year. I could have made one or two for my side fence area. Just awesome, and compact, looks like it's nice and strong to support the soil in the upper pots. Hard when you have lots of ideas and such limited space to do things in.

Thank you for sharing Mitchell

This Old~gal

Re: How to build a pallet cubby

Preeg — Fri, 27 Nov 2020 00:18:02 GMT

Thank you so much for sharing this project its wonderful thnaks alot

Re: How to build a vertical garden

SkyReaper — Sat, 21 Nov 2020 06:08:25 GMT

Yes me also!

I have always liked making the property really shine.

Its great for landlords to see that you are maintaining and caring for their property.

And really who wants to live somewhere that you can't enjoy and make some what your own 😁😃

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Sat, 21 Nov 2020 02:15:59 GMT

I'm in a rental property too and I have to say the property manager was very impressed with my handy work last inspection. I am a firm believer that just because someone rents it doesn't mean that they can't enjoy the property to its fullest.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Jason — Wed, 18 Nov 2020 00:14:16 GMT

Fantastic, glad to see you have been inspired .

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We're so pleased to have you join us and look forward to reading about all your projects and plans for around the house and garden, especially your new vertical garden.

We're sure you will get plenty of helpful information, advice and inspiration from our amazing community members. Please post anytime you need a hand or have something to share.

Jason

Re: How to build a vertical garden

SkyReaper — Tue, 17 Nov 2020 23:53:53 GMT

This is a great idea!!

Living in a rental property, I am limited to how big a far I let my creativity go but this would be a really great option for me.

Thank you so much for sharing!! And who knows hopefully soon you will see pics of my version 😁😀

How to build a toilet roll holder shelf

MitchellMc — Mon, 16 Nov 2020 02:21:18 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Organise and decorate your bathroom or powder room with this streamlined shelf that not only looks attractive but also makes fantastic use of space.

Inspiration for this creation comes from the extremely popular Toilet roll holder shelf by Bunnings Workshop member . Thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us Rodney.

Steps

Step 1

Start by cutting your 2.4m length of 110mm timber into four pieces at 600mm long using your handsaw or mitre saw. Each of these cuts will be at a 45-degree angle.

Step 2

Lay your pieces out to check that the 45-degree cuts match up to form 90-degree corners. It is likely that there will be some gaps. You can dry clamp the pieces to get an idea of how close your cuts have been. Some slight sanding might be necessary to ensure minimal gaps.

Step 3

Painter’s tape can be used to help form the corners. Lay a piece of tape down and place two of your timber pieces onto it so the edges line up correctly. Apply PVA glue to the inside of the corner. Bring the timbers together to complete the corner. Repeat this on the other three corners.

Step 4

Once all the corners have been brought together, use a pull strap to hold everything securely. After the strap has been tightened, insert timber blocks under it to increase the tension. Additional clamps can also be used to ensure the corners are at a right angle.

Step 5

Pre-drill three holes per corner with a 3mm drill bit. Counter sink the holes deep enough that the head of the screw will be below the surface of the timber. Drive in the screws.

Step 6

Measure across a diagonal between two corners. Take this measurement and transfer it onto the 1.2m length of 90mm timber. Create a 90 degree on both ends of the timber by intersecting two 45-degree cuts. Apply glue to the inside of the corners you measured between and insert the timber.

Step 7

Remove the tape and clamps and then apply putty over all the screws and any gaps from your 45-degree cuts. Wait for this to dry and then sand back. Apply a second skim coat and then repeat the sanding process.

Step 8

Begin brushing you stain onto the timber. Use a rag or paper towel to wipe off excess.

Step 9

Predrill holes with a 3mm drill bit to suit your mounting hangers. Install the hangers with timber screws.

Congratulations. You have now completed your toilet roll holder shelf. Expect plenty of admirers of your handiwork.

Materials

One piece of 2.4m Tasmanian Oak measuring 110 x 19mm
One piece of 1.2m Tasmanian Oak measuring 90 x 12mm
12 timber screws 10 x 38mm
100ml PVA glue
250ml teak brown stain
One set mitre/corner clamps
Two hanging plates
One 4m pull tie down strap
Paint brush
One roll painter’s tape
Timber putty
Sandpaper

Tools

Handsaw or mitre saw
Mitre box
Drill driver
3mm drill bit
Countersink bit
Tape measure

Images

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

mich1972 — Wed, 11 Nov 2020 22:35:22 GMT

Love this 🌿💚

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

Adam_W — Mon, 09 Nov 2020 04:29:31 GMT

Hi you have hit upon a rather interesting conundrum...
You can create something such as a low, raised garden bed without concrete, in fact I do so here... as in this case the 100mm construction screws combined with the corner braces will provide support. Once filled with soil it has enough weight to stay put however...
For anything taller than 200 or maybe 300mm I would recommend concreting in place and definitely so if the site is not level.
Now... on saying that... if you can come up with a self-supporting structure that has adequate weight that it will not shift when, say, bumped with a mower, then yes, you can likley do it without needing the concrete.
Another option is that you'll find galvanised reo rods which can be used like stakes. You drill a suitable sized hole (12 to 13mm in this case) from top to bottom of your sleeper and then just hammer the stake through into the soil. If you wanted to go 2 sleepers high you can just fix the bottom 'course' in place and then attach the next level to the fixed off one if that makes sense.

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Mon, 02 Nov 2020 02:14:34 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

Let me mention to get his opinion on whether the posts need to be concreted into the ground.

From my perspective, I wouldn't have thought you need to concrete a low-level structure like this into the ground. The concrete does provide a whole heap of rigidity to the structure though. Provided you securely fixed all timber together you should be fine.

We look forward to hearing more about your projects around the house and garden and we'd encourage you to let us know if you ever need assistance or would like to share them. I trust you'll find loads of information within the community as our wonderful members are contributing their own projects here every day.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

Pirihonga — Mon, 02 Nov 2020 02:03:10 GMT

Hi,

Can this be done without the concrete for the posts? I'm looking to create something similar in one corner of my garden for a raised firepit area, but it's on an easement, so no concrete to be put down.

Cheers

Re: How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Sun, 01 Nov 2020 22:00:07 GMT

Hi ,

It's really functional too. I have limited space in my backyard to have planters on the ground so this vertical one has given me a lot more room to grow in.

I can't wait to see your vertical pallet garden completed. Please post some images when it is done as our members always love a good pallet project.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a vertical garden

Tinyfeather60 — Sun, 01 Nov 2020 06:31:15 GMT

That’s really cute love that

How to build a vertical garden

MitchellMc — Sun, 25 Oct 2020 23:28:25 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

A vertical garden can provide greenery and colour to enliven a drab location and provide plenty of growing space in even very small areas.

Customisable to suit your own garden, this vertical garden can be combined with our raised garden bed made from recycled pallets.

Inspiration for this creation comes from the extremely popular Vertical garden with built-in watering system by experienced Bunnings Workshop member . Thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us.

Steps

Step 1

Start by cutting three lengths of the 90 x 45mm timber at the height you wish you top box to be. Ours were cut 2 meters long to locate the top box just above head height. These will become the vertical posts and they are fixed to the base with three coach screws for each post.

Pre-drill 6mm holes in the posts allowing the coach screws to be positioned at the top, middle and bottom of the garden bed. Ours are at 10cm, 25cm and 40cm above the ground.

Fix the posts to the base with one at each end and one in the middle at 116cm. Make sure they are evenly spaced and that the screws are fixed through the post and into the frame of the garden planter.

Step 2

Clamp a temporary horizontal brace across the three upright posts. Measure the distance between the posts at the top, middle and base. Our garden bed is 233cm long so the distance between the posts is 103cm as the posts are 9cm wide. Adjust the clamps to ensure the posts a perpendicular to each other and are evenly spaced.

Step 3

Take a 90 x 45 piece of timber and cut it to a length that spans across the top of your three posts. Our garden bed is 233cm long. Pre-drill three 3mm holes at either end of this top piece and in the middle (at 116cm for ours). This will be your top horizontal member. Drive treated pine screws through the timber into the top of the three vertical posts.

Step 4

Take the measurement between your posts. We cut three pieces of the 150 x 25mm timber at 103cm. This will be the front, back and base of the planter box. Measure the internal height for end pieces. Cut two 125mm pieces from your 150 x 25mm stock. Place the end pieces in position and clamp on both sides to secure.

Step 5

Pre-drill 3mm holes around the perimeter of the front and back timber boards into the base and sides. You’ll need five holes into the base and three holes into each the sides. Countersink those holes. Drive treated pine screws to secure the boards in place. This process will be repeated on the back and front. In this vertical planter we are using six boxes and this process will be repeated for all six of them.

Step 6

Measure the width of the boxes and mark a centre line. The boxes will be 200mm wide so add a mark at 100mm. On this centre line we will take a scrap piece of 90 x 45mm timber and place it diagonally. Mark both sides of the timber. Step the timber back lining it up with one of the diagonal lines. Again, mark both sides of the timber. This gives us a reference to the angle at which the planter box will sit. Pre-drill three 3mm holes within the marked area.

Step 7

Install box into position between the vertical posts. Check the angle by matching up the marked lines on the side of the box with the vertical posts. Our boxes are space 10cm apart as this gives the plants enough room to grow without hitting the box above. Drive three treated pine screws from inside the box into each post. A second set of hands can be helpful here.

Step 8

Drill several evenly spaced 8mm drainage holes in the bottom of each box. Cut pieces of the builder film larger than what is needed to line the interior of the boxes. Use a staple gun the fix the plastic in place. Trim the plastic back so it is neat and flush with the timber. Cut some holes in the builder film allowing water to drain through it.

Step 9

Cut two lengths of 90 x 45mm timber to act as a central and lower support cross-members. Our cross-members are 233cm long. These timbers should be the same length as your top horizontal piece. Fix them to the vertical posts with treated pine screws. One will be at the mid-position which worked out to be 135cm high and the other just above the base which was 50cm high.

Step 10

Cut your lattice panels height to fit between the mid and lower brace and then cut the panels width to fit between the two upright posts. In our case this was 90cm high and 103cm wide. Fix the lattice to the middle and lower cross-member with treated pine screws. Cut to length your trim timber forming a basic frame around the lattice. These were two pieces 103cm long for the top and bottom and another two at 82cm long for the sides. Fix the frame in position with treated pine screws.

Congratulations. You have now completed your vertical garden planter project.

Materials

200 treated pine screws sized 8-10 x 75mm
Five pieces of 4.8m treated pine measuring 150 x 25mm
Six pieces of 2.4m treated pine measuring 90 x 45mm
Two pieces of 2.4 DAR treated pine measuring 40 x 18mm
Nine galvanised coach screws M8 x 100mm
One roll of builder’s plastic 2 x 10m
One piece of lattice measuring 1800 x 900mm

Tools

Drill driver
6mm drill bit
3mm drill bit
Countersink bit
8mm spanner or adjustable spanner
Circular saw
Tape measure
Clamps
Staple gun

Images

Re: How to add an extension to a Colorbond fence

algenebautista — Fri, 23 Oct 2020 07:43:27 GMT

This is my existing fence on one side.

Re: How to add an extension to a Colorbond fence

algenebautista — Fri, 23 Oct 2020 07:13:13 GMT

This is what I need for my fence extension. Thanks heaps!

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Thu, 22 Oct 2020 23:00:31 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fabulous to have you join us and many thanks for jumping into the conversation.

Were you interested in building something like this for your backyard?

I trust our community would like to follow along with your build and we'd encourage you to let us know if you need any assistance or would like to share your results. I trust you'll find loads of inspiration from within the community as our creative members are sharing their projects here every day.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Thu, 22 Oct 2020 22:57:47 GMT

Many thanks for your kind words.

My young daughter likes doing some gardening and the capping is great for her to lean/sit on.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

Tairi — Thu, 22 Oct 2020 04:26:25 GMT

Easy. Thanks for sharing.

Re: How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

rattle — Wed, 21 Oct 2020 14:05:59 GMT

Good stuff 👍

Very clear instructions.

I like the width of the capping so you can lean on it or even place things on it as you work.

Re: How to build a retaining wall

Adam_W — Wed, 21 Oct 2020 03:22:29 GMT

Hi , It can be a bit 6 of one 1/2 dozen of the other to be honest. Treated pine would typically last longer in a wider range of situations but in say a dry situation hardwood may outlast treated pine. Remember that any timber that isn't treated is prone to attack from termites so that can be the downfall (pardon the pun...) of hardwood. You'll find however that many of the hardwood sleepers are chemically treated now too to extend their life still further and protect against bugs.
The thing with hardwood is it is a lot harder to work with - heavier, harder to cut, all screw holes will need to be pre-drilled etc.
Personally I'd just go microshades pine. A lot cheaper too 200 x 50 x 2.4 microshades is around $16.50. Hardwood same size is $23.43.
If you don't like the colour of pine it's easy enough to stain or even paint. Just do so before you install.

Re: How to build a retaining wall

Jason — Tue, 20 Oct 2020 21:23:14 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We're so pleased to have you join us and look forward to reading about all your projects and plans for around the house and garden. We're sure you will get plenty of helpful information, advice and inspiration from our amazing community members.

Let me tag the wonderful for his thoughts on what timber is best suited to your retaining wall project.

Jason

Re: How to build a retaining wall

melvah6 — Tue, 20 Oct 2020 09:05:26 GMT

What are the best type of sleepers to place as a retainer wall just slightly in the ground. Pine or hardwood - I understand whichever must be at least h4 treated, but is pine going to last longer than hardwood, or the other way round???

How to build a raised garden bed using pallets

MitchellMc — Sun, 25 Oct 2020 23:31:44 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

A fantastic raised garden bed for growing vegetables or other plants can be constructed from recycled pallet timber.

This project can be built for a minimal cost and be customised to suit your needs.

Follow our simple step-by-step instructions, and feel free to ask any questions about the build process in the comments section below.

Steps

Step 1

You’ll find pine pallets the easiest to work with for this project. They are readily available and last a significant amount of time out in the weather. It’s best to pick up pallets that are in a reasonable condition, avoiding those with damaged or warped and twisted boards.

After acquiring your pallets, disassemble them by removing the boards from the runner. Select the straightest timber runners as you’ll be using these for your frame. For each frame we will need two runners and two shorter cross pieces. The length of the cross pieces will determine the depth of your planter. The runners should be approximately 120cm from your pallet. The cross pieces will be a runner cut in half at 60cm.

Step 2

After cutting a runner in half to form shorter cross pieces pre-drill the end of the longer runners with a 6mm drill bit in two places. Drive in two of your longer bugle screws into the cross pieces end. Repeat this on all four corners. You’ll need to make two of these frames for the top and bottom.

Step 3

Cut four upright posts at 50cm length. The length of these will determine the height of your planter. From the inside of the frame screw these uprights into the corners with your treated pine screws. From the outside add some additional screws for strength.

Step 4

Begin laying out your boards. Fix the boards to the top and bottom timber on the frame with screws. You should use two screws in the top and two in the bottom of the board.

Step 5

Once the boards are fixed in place, cut them flush with the top of the frame.

Step 6

Select some boards to use as capping pieces. These will be used to finish the top and hold the plastic liner in position. Cut the boards to size.

Step 7

Lay builder’s plastic into the planter. Sandwich the plastic in between the frame and the capping boards. Screw the boards in place. Trim the excess plastic off.

You’ve now completed your garden planter. For a fabulous addition, consider adding an additional vertical garden behind the planter. Our step-by-step guide How to build a vertical garden can show you how.

Materials

Four pallets
25 galvanised bugle screws - size 14g x 100mm
150 treated pine screws – size 10 x 65mm
One roll of builder’s plastic 2 x 5m

Tools

Drill driver
6mm drill bit
Handsaw or circular saw

Images

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Fri, 09 Oct 2020 00:56:45 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fabulous to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

As mentions, an untreated hardwood would a suitable choice of materials. Our 200 x 50mm 2.4m Hardwood Sleeper is available to be special ordered into stores.

There is also the concrete sleeper range if you didn't want to use treated timber for your project.

For some inspiration, you might like to check out our Top 10 most popular raised garden beds and these previous discussions: Rustic railway sleeper garden bed by and What type of timber for a garden bed? by

We look forward to hearing more about your raised garden bed project and we'd encourage you to let us know if you need assistance or would like to share it with the community.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

Ayse — Wed, 07 Oct 2020 11:45:51 GMT

I love the look!

I want to make ome for myself but need non treated raw materials.

Any reccomendations?

How to add an extension to a Colorbond fence

ProjectPete — Thu, 01 Oct 2020 00:50:22 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

A fence extension can add welcome privacy for your outdoor spaces, as well as enhanced security for your property.

While the standard install height for Colorbond fencing is 1800mm, for a small investment you can add privacy and security to your boundary fencing with D.I.Y. extensions taking the finished height to 2100mm.

As with any changes to a shared boundary, remember to talk to you neighbour before starting work. It’s the right thing to do and they might even agree to share the cost. It is also wise to contact your local council.

Sponsored Post

Steps

Step 1

Measure your existing fencing to determine your material list. Simply count the number of sheets, uprights and rails that you have. That will be the quantity of each of the items needed in the extension kit. To calculate how many plate brackets, just count how many uprights you have, halve it, and add one (for the end).

Note that some sections (from upright to upright) will be shorter or longer than the rest, so be sure to measure the rails and order the lengths required. Keep in mind you may need to cut some to fit.

Step 2

The plate brackets are usually 250mm long so start by marking the halfway point on all of them before hammering them all into place with your claw hammer down to the halfway point you marked. A flat head screwdriver comes in handy to create some space for the plate bracket between the top rail and the upright depending on how closely they’ve been installed.

With the plate brackets in place, slide one 300mm upright over the bracket and place a second one up against it. Now clamp them together and ensure they’re level. Then pop two of the button head screws through both uprights and the plate bracket in a diagonal configuration.

Step 3

With all your upright extensions in place, slide one end of a rail into an upright, then slide the other end in a downward direction to fit into the upright at the other end of the section. This is your new bottom rail. Once it’s in place, pop a screw in each end and one in the middle to attach it to the top rail of the existing fence. Repeat this step for each section.

Step 4

Now pop your first sheet into the bottom rail and slide it into the upright. Ensure you align the profile with the existing fence below. With the first one in place, take note of how and where the sheets on the existing fence overlap each other and continue inserting your remaining sheets, keeping an eye on the alignment of your profile.

For this step, do only one section, then go to Step 5.

Step 5

With a section of sheets in place, grab another rail and insert one end into the upright (like you did in Step 4). Slowly and carefully wriggle it into place over the sheets dealing with small parts at a time. Wriggling the rail back and forth, essentially following the wavy profile of the sheets, will help get it in place.

Once it’s in place, check it’s level then screw a hex head through the uprights and into the rail (at the top) to hold it in place. Do the same on the other side of the upright (neighbour’s side). Repeat for the bottom of the uprights. Note that it’s not necessary to do the bottom of the upright on neighbour’s side.

Repeat Step 4 and 5 until all sections are complete. You have now finished your Colorbond fence extensions. Now is the perfect time to clean off any cobwebs and dirt and treat it all with pest spray.

Step 6

You might like to consider cladding your fence to add sophistication and style to your backyard. There are many options to consider, from quality fibre cement products from James Hardie through to pre-made and bespoke timber screening. Whichever way you go, you’re going to need to install a H3 treated pine frame to attach your cladding to and the type of framing required will depend on your chosen cladding.

An already braced premade timber panel will likely only require some 50 x 25mm treated pine fixed to the top and bottom rails with 14g x 50mm Metal Teks. Then use either colour-matched timber screws or trim head screws to fix the panels to the treated pine frame.

Fibre cement would require a more complex 70x35mm treated pine frame to be attached to the top and bottom rails along with vertical lengths at certain points (see installation guides) and noggins to ensure a strong foundation.

If you need a hand with your fence cladding project, just let us know by commenting below. Good luck and please share your project with the community.

Materials

Colorbond fence extension kit, including:
- 300mm sheets
- 300mm uprights
- Plate brackets
- Rails
- 20mm self-tapping metal screws
- 16mm hex head self-tapping metal screws (to match your Colorbond colour)

Tools

Tape measure
Spirit level (ideally 2100mm)
Pencil or marker
Clamps which open at least 150mm
Claw hammer
Rubber mallet or dead blow hammer
Large flat head screwdriver
Drill – An impact driver makes the job easier
Ladder (tall enough for you to safely reach a drilling point of 2100mm)
Angle grinder or hacksaw with a steel blade
Personal protective equipment

Images

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Fri, 25 Sep 2020 00:32:43 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

Housing is generally built to withstand surface water being absorbed into timberwork and this is achieved with a damp course layer and water-resistant cladding. In saying that, ten centimetres is not a lot of room and depending on how you are irrigating the garden you might end up creating a humid and damp area close to a wall.

I'm not aware of any regulations on how close a raised garden bed can be to a house wall, but as a rule of thumb, you'd want it as far away as possible. I would advise any watering done to the garden bed should be directed at the individual plants and not sprayed over the side of the house as well.

If you haven't already you might be interested in checking out our Top 10 most popular raised garden beds for some inspiration with your project.

Let me also mention the very knowledgeable to see if he has any concerns with the placement or would like to join the conversation.

Mitchell.

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

keridwyn — Wed, 23 Sep 2020 22:55:01 GMT

Hi, what is the required distance between a raised bed and a weatherboard house please? It's in a warm sunny spot on sandy soil, will 10cm be enough to prevent damp issues?

Re: How to renovate a caravan - Part 2

MitchellMc — Sun, 20 Sep 2020 22:29:50 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

Let me mention so they are alerted to your question and hopefully they can answer it for you.

You might like to consider the acrylic splashbacks we have on offer including the Wall Art 2400 x 1200 x 3mm New York White Tile Wet Area Wall / Shower Panel.

Caravan renovations are always popular with our community and I would encourage you to start a discussion and share your progress with us. I know I've been looking at potentially starting a caravan reno project myself as all the posts here have thoroughly excited me about the prospect.

We can wait to hear more about your project and I trust our members will be more than happy to assist you with any questions you might have.

Mitchell

Re: How to renovate a caravan - Part 2

Brenda63 — Sun, 20 Sep 2020 11:33:56 GMT

Hi Rob we are in the middle of a Jayco starcraft reno we have completely gutted it stripped of all sealant starting from scratch.

Interested in your picture of kitchen bench with round sink are they white mosiac subway tiles or those vinyl stick on ones.

I like the mosiac subway tiles but hubby is not convinced . thinks the movement of the van will cause problems. if you used the mosiac what glue did you use

Re: How to fill a raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Fri, 18 Sep 2020 23:49:25 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for contributing to the discussion.

It's fantastic to hear about what has worked with your garden and how you managed to fill a large bed for a minimal cost. I'm a fan of bulking out my garden beds with Richgro 25L All Purpose Garden Soil Mix and Richgro 25L All Purpose Organic Compost. I'll then mix some Fine Farms 25L Blended Cow Manure through them to add a bit more organic material. I'll finish the bed off with the last 25cm of fill being a premium variety mix like Scotts Osmocote 25L Garden Soil Premium Planting Mix. The last bed I filled took close to 35 bags of 25-litre mix, so I certainly couldn't afford to do that all with a premium variety.

We look forward to hearing more about the projects you have going on around your house and garden and would encourage you to let us know if you ever need assistance or would like to share them with the community. I trust you'll find loads of inspiration within the community as our creative members are contributing their ideas here all the time.

Mitchell

Re: How to fill a raised garden bed

MaryEvans — Sun, 20 Sep 2020 22:31:02 GMT

I have four raised garden beds. These were difficult and costly to fill with soil/potting mix. So I opted for what waste I had on hand Eg. Bits of styrene, cardboard, scrunched up news paper and old potting mix. These were placed right at the very bottom and also acted as good drainage. Then I topped them up with garden soil, Cheaper type potting mix and cow manure all mixed in together. This seemed to work well as I have been growing herbs, plus home seeded tiny toms, (Tiny yellow egg toms from punnet) lettuce and bock Choy. These should do better now it’s warmer. Tried snow peas in planter pots these were too shallow, started off well but died (weather became too cold). Will now plant more seedlings with warmer weather.

How to prune citrus trees

Noelle — Thu, 17 Sep 2020 05:04:18 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

Citrus trees such as lemons, limes, oranges, cumquats and grapefruit are evergreen fruit trees. They don’t lose their leaves in winter like many other fruits, so pruning them can be challenging. Some also have thorns, making them even more difficult.

They don’t need a harsh cut-back every year like their deciduous counterparts. In fact, if you prune them too hard or too often, they are inclined to put all their energy into replacing leaves and branches instead of into flowers and fruit.

The aim is to trim rather than prune to maintain a tidy shape and to encourage just enough new growth to produce abundant flowers and bumper crops. That said, an old lemon tree well past its prime can be rejuvenated by cutting it back to just the trunk and major branches. It will re-shoot prolifically and, in a few years, develop a complete new framework that will crop well for another few decades.

Sponsored Post

Steps

Step 1

Make sure all blades and saws are sharp so they cut cleanly. Tearing of stems and bark may allow diseases to take hold. Dip tools in disinfectant before you start cutting to remove traces of sap and possible diseases, then dry and clean them.

Step 2

Citrus trees are susceptible to attack by a small wasp that lays its eggs under the bark of new growth. As a defence mechanism, a tree will develop “galls” (scar tissue) around the affected areas. Galls encapsulate the eggs, followed by the larvae which will eventually develop into new wasps that fly off. Citrus galls are unsightly and weaken trees. The best cure is to eliminate the eggs and larvae.

Until recently, cutting off galls in Winter before wasps emerged in early spring was the recommended treatment but pruning at this time is not appropriate – new growth can be burned off by cold weather. Today, the process is to “scalp” new galls, exposing the eggs and larvae inside and so killing them before they hatch. Cutting galls open can be done with a sharp knife or a potato peeler.

Old galls covered in holes can be cut off completely in spring. The wasps have emerged and flown off. It’s too late for “scalping” at this stage.

Step 3

Once the galls have been treated, it’s time to look at the rest of the tree. Pruning should not be done until the weather has warmed in spring and the likelihood of frosts, which could burn soft new shoots, has passed.

The main aim of any pruning is to encourage new growth but, in the case of citrus, this should not be at the expense of flowering and fruiting. A light touch is appropriate in general.

Where shoots are long and have developed a downward droop due to the weight of fruit, they can be trimmed back. Likewise shoots heading for the sky can be shortened so the fruits they bear can be harvested easily. Cut cleanly to avoid tearing the bark.

Citrus trees that have been grafted should have all shoots growing from below the graft union removed – these are vigorous rootstock growths that draw nutrients and moisture away from the variety growing on top.

Step 4

A well grown citrus tree should have an overall rounded habit with well-spaced branches that allow light to penetrate into the centre of the tree. Not quite as well clipped as a topiary but neat nonetheless. A program of renewal pruning to replace old branches over a period of years is key to a tree living and cropping well for many decades.

Step 5

Continuing with tip pruning over the warmer months will help keep your citrus trees in shape.

Don’t be concerned if your trees drop lots of immature fruits shortly after flowering – the tree is self-managing the crop it can ripen without self-destructing.

Step 6

Be vigilant and always watch for pests like scale on your citrus trees. They are sap-suckers and will affect overall health and vigour if not controlled. An application of horticultural or white oil after pruning in early spring and again in late summer will aid in controlling them.

Materials

Diluted household disinfectant (1 cap or 30 ml in 500ml of water)

Tools

Gardening gloves
Secateurs
Sharp grafting knife or craft knife or potato peeler
Pruning saw
Face mask (optional)

Images

Re: How to build a floating planter box

Jason — Tue, 15 Sep 2020 23:52:12 GMT

Many thanks for the feedback . I'm sure Pete appreciates it. Are you planning on building your own?

Let me extend a very warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We're really pleased to have you join us and look forward to reading all about your own projects and plans. Please don't hesitate to post whenever you need a hand or have something to share. We have clever and creative members sharing helpful advice and inspiring projects on the site every day, so we're sure you will get plenty of value from getting involved.

Thanks again,

Jason

Re: How to build a floating planter box

unsoundguy — Tue, 15 Sep 2020 11:43:49 GMT

That's fantastic

Re: How to build a pallet cubby

MitchellMc — Sat, 12 Sep 2020 00:37:56 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fantastic to have you join us and many thanks for the compliment.

Are you thinking of building something similar? My daughter absolutely loves it.

We look forward to hearing about your projects around the house and garden and we'd encourage you to let us know if you ever need assistance with them or you'd like to share with the community. I trust you'll find loads of inspiration for them from within the community as our fantastic members are posting their own projects here all the time.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a pallet cubby

Hectic_pete — Fri, 11 Sep 2020 12:41:05 GMT

Nice work man!

Re: How to build a floating planter box

MitchellMc — Fri, 11 Sep 2020 02:45:02 GMT

What an amazing project which is easy to D.I.Y. and is certain to provide a great visual element to any room.

Very easy to follow and a fantastic weekend project.

Many thanks for sharing Pete.

Mitchell

How to build a floating planter box

ProjectPete — Fri, 11 Sep 2020 01:59:38 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

For a stylish way to bring new life to a room, build a floating planter box to showcase some beloved plants.

Using basic materials and simple woodworking skills, you can achieve this project in a day and have something to admire for years to come.

Sponsored Post

Steps

Step 1

Measure your wall space and decide what sized planter box you would like. Use the formula below to determine the amount of timber required. This is based on using 140x19mm dressed pine.

Length of front - this is the one measurement you need to know to begin.
Length of back = front minus 38mm.
Length of base = same as back.
Length of sides = 140 + 38mm = 178mm.

Step 2

Cut your material to the required lengths which you’ve calculated in Step 1 and follow the guidance on cut angles below.

Front – The two short ends should be mitre cut at 45 degrees.
Back and base – These consist of 90-degree cuts on both ends.
Sides – One end (the front end) is to be cut at 45 degrees while the other end (the back) is 90 degrees. The reason for varied cut angles is to reduce the number of visible joins for a seamless finish.

Step 3

Once you’ve done the cuts, tidy up the cut ends with some 400 grit sandpaper, then lay the timber out and ensure a snug fit. Now we are going to move onto gluing it all together.

Step 4

To glue the two mitre joins at the front of your box you can either use corner clamps or a little trick with some tape as you can see in the photos below.

Once your mitre joins have dried as per the instructions on your chosen glue, proceed to gluing the rest of the box together. Pop the base on, then the back.

If you have a Brad nailer, it makes finishing quicker as you can avoid some clamping. To avoid touching up small nail holes, just use nails on the back where they won’t be seen anyway.

Step 5

Clean off any excess glue that’s oozed out of the joins then drill at least two holes in the back panel of your box to allow fixing to the wall with the sleeve anchors. Place it on the wall where you wish to hang it, level it with your spirit level and mark the points to drill into the wall. Note: if you are fixing to a timber wall you need the appropriate fixings and to locate the studs.

Step 6

Fill any gaps or joins that need filling and sand any areas that need it before finishing it in a style that matches your home décor. You can oil it, stain it or even paint it. It’s really up to you.

Note: don’t waste time oiling/painting the inside of the box as it’ll be lined with black plastic in the next step. Just go about 15mm down from the top on the inside for a clean finish.

Drill the holes in the wall and insert the sleeve anchors while you wait for the box to dry.

Step 7

Cut the black plastic to suit the shape of the inside of your box ensuring you overlap pieces by about 15mm. Apply silicone to the inside of the box to hold the black plastic in place. Apply silicone to where the plastic overlaps so you have a waterproof seal (preventing the moisture from the soil coming into contact with the timber box). Make small holes in the plastic where the drilled holes are.

Step 8

With the holes drilled in the wall, place your planter box onto the sleeve anchors and fasten it in place with your socket set or spanner.

Step 9

Fill the box with a quality soil and your favourite plants.

Next time try using bamboo cladding for a different effect. You can be creative with the materials you use and the way you finish the box. Enjoy!

Materials

Personal protective equipment
30mm painters tape
Quality PVA wood glue
Dressed pine (based on desired size) or other timber
400 grit sandpaper
Timber filler to match your material
Black garden/builders plastic
Clear roof and gutter silicone
2-4x 10x75mm hex head sleeve anchors (for fixing to brick wall)
25mm C1 18 gauge Brad nails (optional)

Tools

Ruler
Tape measure
Spirit level
Pencil or sharp texta
Mitre saw
Clamps and corner clamps
Hammer drill
10mm timber drill bit
10mm masonry drill bit
Socket set or adjustable spanner
Caulking gun
Cloth
Stud finder (for timber frame houses)
Brad nailer (optional)

Images

Re: How to build a low-level deck

MitchellMc — Tue, 08 Sep 2020 00:41:06 GMT

If 120 x 45mm is not available in your location then I would revert back to your original suggestion of using 90 x 90mm bearers. This will be made up of two 90 x 45mm joined together.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a low-level deck

BenCor — Tue, 08 Sep 2020 00:25:50 GMT

Thanks for your replay and assistance Mitchell.

Regarding the bearers - I can find 90 x 45mm and 140 x 45mm sizes in MGP10 (H3) but nothing in 120 x 45mm. does Bunnings sell that size? could I get away with 90 x 45mm given the existing height restriction or is that pushing it a bit?

Re: How to build a low-level deck

MitchellMc — Mon, 07 Sep 2020 05:57:37 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fantastic to have you join us and many thanks for your questions.

I'd be inclined to think Treated Pine Outdoor Timber Framing MGP10 120 x 45mm for bearers and Treated Pine Outdoor Timber Framing 90 x 45mm for joists would be a good place to start. With that in mind, I've provided a basic outlay using those below.

I haven't personally heard of anyone using 90 x90 for bearers and normally sizing like that would be reserved for your posts.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a low-level deck

BenCor — Mon, 07 Sep 2020 03:55:36 GMT

I'm looking to build a low level deck (sloping back yard means approx 150mm clearance adjacent to back door down to approx 500mm at outer edge of deck).

Planning the deck to be 3000mm long x 5860mm wide and, therefore, calculations say I should have 4 x bearers at 1860mm wide spacing sitting on 3 posts at 1350mm spacing and either 6 joists @ 583mm intervals or 7 joists @ 486mm intervals (haven't decided yet).

My question is - what size bearers and joists should I use?

I tried the Floor Load Weight calculator but couldn't figure that out...I read somewhere bearers should be 90x90mm? and joists 90x45mm?

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Fri, 04 Sep 2020 23:03:08 GMT

Hi ,

The timber slabs you have purchased are H4 treated pine. H4 treatments are suitable for use in situations where the timber is in contact with the ground or is continually damp. As you can see in the article, Adam_W is only using a filter mesh and no additional protection is necessary.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

deeguy — Fri, 04 Sep 2020 09:46:31 GMT

What is the best way to protect the wood in garden beds as it will be exposed to water and wet soil? Is using something like "Builder's film" or "Consolidated Alloys 150mm x 10m Polycourse" on the inner sides a good idea? or maybe some kind of sealant ?

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

deeguy — Fri, 04 Sep 2020 09:06:56 GMT

Thanks for you assistance. I will start this and post updates with pictures soon. The idea of using Retain-It 450mm corner-posts is awesome. I will also use them and see how that goes.

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Fri, 04 Sep 2020 00:30:07 GMT

I've made contact with your local stores and they do offer a cut to length service on treated pine sleepers.

Please let me know if you need further assistance or had any questions.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a pallet timber table

MitchellMc — Tue, 01 Sep 2020 04:18:36 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

You'll find most of our stores aim to recycle our timber pallets and often have them conveniently stored so customers can take them for projects. They will generally be kept to one side near our timber/trade and drive-thru sections. Next time when you're instore simply ask a team member in the timber yard if they had any spare pine pallets you could take. I'm sure they will be more than happy to assist.

We look forward to seeing what you create with the timber pallets and we'd encourage you to let us know if you need any assistance or if you would like to share the project with the community.

Please let me know if you need further assistance or had any questions.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a pallet timber table

stellaredvelvet — Tue, 01 Sep 2020 04:01:19 GMT

Hello. I’ve just joined, after searching the Bunnings website. I’m trying to find a pallet to make a craft project. Any suggestions where to source one as they don’t come up in a search on the Bunnings website. TIA 😊

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

MitchellMc — Mon, 31 Aug 2020 22:57:30 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's fantastic to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

Many of our stores offer a cutting service which can be used to cut treated pine sleepers to length. I would advise contacting your local store prior to going in to confirm their saw is capable of cutting sleepers.

Are you planning on making a raised garden bed? It would be great to follow along with your project and we'd encourage you to let us know if you need any assistance or if you'd like to share it with the community.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a simple raised garden bed

deeguy — Mon, 31 Aug 2020 09:28:20 GMT

Great. Will Bunnings be able to cut the sleepers at the store? I need 3 cuts of 1 sleeper of 2.4m.

Re: How to build a retaining wall

Adam_W — Sat, 15 Aug 2020 06:42:26 GMT

Hi you should find that the sizes they use to describe the joiners are in-fact the sleeper size that they accept.
So to use this Retain-it as an example... the size is expressed (in this case) as 75 x 450mm.

It's a bit confusing because the 450 is the external length whereas the 75mm is the internal sizing of the 'U'.

Normally a size is expressed as external length x width x depth but here it's length and internal dimensions. I guess it would be even more confusing if they gave the external width which would be about 85 to 90mm & then tried to somehow add the extra dimension...
You'll find this is the same with most of these products - internal dimension & overall length.
And just a tip too... you'll notice the sizing increments? This is to help make sure you get the right amount of post in the ground. So a 450mm is for 1 x 200mm sleeper. A 750mm is for 2 x 200mm sleepers high. An 1100mm is for 3 x 200mm sleepers high.
In most circumstances anything above 600mm high will require council approval and engineering designs etc. so always worth checking with your local council as it can depend on circumstances. For example a 400mm retaining wall supporting a driveway would likely need approval. It gets into a rather complex area of static and 'live' loads.

Re: How to build a retaining wall

MitchellMc — Fri, 14 Aug 2020 04:01:06 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

For your 75mm thick sleepers, there are the galvanised joiners in 450mm, 750mm and 1100mm lengths. There is also the option to have black powder-coated joiners in 450mm, 750mm and 1100mm lengths. As a general rule of thumb, you'll want as much post in the ground as you have above the ground. For a single height sleeper wall using 200mm wide sleepers, you would get the 450mm joiner and concrete 250mm into the ground.

Here a step-by-step D.I.Y. video on how to install Retain-It which I trust you'll find useful.

might also like to join the discussion and share his knowledge on the subject.

Please let me know if you need further information or had any questions.

Mitchell

Re: How to build a retaining wall

pete64 — Thu, 13 Aug 2020 06:39:29 GMT

I am looking to build a low retaining sleeper wall using H section joiners, bit confused with the online sizing, planning on using 75mm sleepers, which size H section should I use?

Re: How to lay paving for a path

MitchellMc — Sun, 09 Aug 2020 22:46:35 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for your question.

Is the slope at a consistent gradient or does it vary? If it is consistent then I would advise a stake at the top and bottom of the slope and running a string line fixed at the same height on either stake. If the slope varies this method will also give you a constant grade over the area to work with and you can then adjust the slope to suit.

Let me mention the very knowledgeable to see if there are any tricks or tips to paving on a slope.

Mitchell

Re: How to lay paving for a path

morgzmc — Sun, 09 Aug 2020 14:30:33 GMT

Hi just read over your post and found it super informative. However just wondering how you would do the string line Or get the depth right if you were paving on a slope? My brain is having a moment thinking about it. Thanks

How to prune a fruit tree

Noelle — Wed, 05 Aug 2020 04:01:14 GMT

Difficulty: Beginner

The main objective in pruning fruit trees is to encourage flowering and fruiting. Different types of fruits require differing techniques. Some flower and fruit on last season’s laterals (shoots) while others bear their crops on permanent or semi-permanent "spurs". Knowing how the trees you’re growing produce their crops is key to how they should be pruned.

Complete books have been written on fruit tree pruning – it can be quite a complex topic. But don’t let that put you off picking up the secateurs because, over a period of years, unpruned trees will produce fewer and fewer flowers and fruit.

A few simple tips will get you started and keep your trees growing and flowering well, so you can enjoy fresh fruits direct from the garden.

Sponsored Post

Steps

Step 1

Fruit trees are susceptible to a range of diseases that can be spread from tree-to-tree and also by airborne spores that can enter through damaged or torn bark and wood.

Secateurs, loppers and pruning saw must be sharp, so they cut cleanly, and free of debris. Dip the blades in disinfectant or use a disinfectant wipe before you start each plant to remove traces of sap.

Step 2

Learn by observation how each of your trees produces its flowers and fruits. The following is a guide:

Apples and pears – most varieties flower and fruit on short ‘spurs’ of two-year-old wood or older (spur-bearing). Some may also crop on the tips of short lateral growths as well as spurs (tip bearing).
Peaches and nectarines - both flower and fruit on one-year-old wood. Shorten last year’s laterals to encourage new laterals in the following Spring. Cut to a triple that includes flower and leaf buds.
Apricots – fruits are produced on one-year-old branches and semi-permanent sprigs. Flower buds are usually in clusters that will include at least one leaf bud.
Plums – while they will fruit on year-old wood, most fruit is produced on two-year-old wood and permanent spurs.
Cherries – fruits are usually produced on one-year-old wood and also on tips of fruiting spurs. Established trees need only light maintenance pruning to remove damaged or crossing branches.
Almonds – crops are produced on semi-permanent spurs and short shoots, sometimes known as sprigs.
Less common but increasingly popular fruit and nut trees like quince, mulberry, persimmon, fig, walnut and chestnut need little pruning once the basic framework has been formed. Occasional shortening of laterals to encourage new growth is recommended.

In the first couple of years after planting, prune to develop the basic frame of the tree. After the second or third season, change your method to promotion of fruiting wood.

Step 3

Most pruning is done in Winter while trees are dormant. However, apricots should be pruned in late Autumn. They are susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases. Prune on a sunny or windy day so the cuts will dry and seal over quickly, minimising the risk of infection.

For all your fruit tree pruning, check each tree for diseased or mummified fruits, damaged or broken branches and spindly laterals that are not likely to be useful in the future. Remove them all cleanly. Collect diseased fruits and put them into the household rubbish. If left on the ground or composted, there is a risk of fungal spores and bacteria spreading infection.

Step 4

When you are familiar with where your trees will produce flowers – lateral buds, terminal buds or spurs – you can prune accordingly. Always cut cleanly just above a bud or spur and slope the cut away from the bud or spur.

There are no hard and fast rules, although there are basic guidelines you should follow. There is plenty of good information available in books and on the web. Just make sure to try to choose local sources of information.

One point to keep in mind: Don’t cut back to old wood. Always cut to live buds or spurs. Follow that tip and the worst you can do is cut off potential fruiting wood, reducing next season’s crop.

While Winter (when trees are dormant) is the preferred pruning time for most fruits (except apricots) if you are really at a loss as to where fruits will grow, then delay pruning until your trees are in flower.

Step 5

When you think you have finished each tree, stand back and run a critical eye over it. If it looks OK and you’re happy then don’t prune any more. If there is still weak or spindly growth, laterals crossing one another and tall laterals heading for the sky, then make the necessary adjustments.

Gather up all the prunings from under trees and either mulch them up and add them to the compost or put them in the green waste bin for recycling.

Clean your tools and store them out of the weather until they are next needed.

Materials

Container of diluted household disinfectant (1 cap or 30 ml approx in 500ml of water) OR disinfectant wipes

Tools

Gardening gloves
Secateurs (by-pass blades rather than anvil style, for cleaner cuts)
Pruning saw
Loppers (for larger branches only)

Images

Re: How to make compost for your garden

Jason — Mon, 03 Aug 2020 21:54:07 GMT

Love this story about composting in the inner suburbs and embracing the local community - https://www.theage.com.au/national/i-wanted-compost-to-reinvigorate-my-garden-i-found-a-community-that-reinvigorated-me-20200714-p55c2i.html. I'm sure it will inspire others.

Hope you are staying safe and well.

Jason

Re: How to grow your own vegan food

MitchellMc — Sun, 26 Jul 2020 01:16:00 GMT

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community . It's great to have you join us and many thanks for jumping straight into the conversation.

Did you know that Bunning's cafes give away their used coffee grounds for free? If you ask at your local store's cafe during operating hours they will be more than happy to supply you with them for your garden. If they don't have any available right away then they will hold their next batch for you.

We look forward to hearing all about the projects you have going on around your own home and garden and encourage you to let us know if you ever need assistance with them or if you would like to share them with us. I trust you'll also find loads of inspiration for those projects from within the community as we have many creative members contributing their ideas here all the time.

Mitchell

Re: How to grow your own vegan food

Pilar8 — Sun, 26 Jul 2020 00:57:28 GMT

Amazing tips and ideas! I like the one with coffee grains! It is safe for the plants and for the snails and slugs.

How to grow your own vegan food

Noelle — Wed, 22 Jul 2020 04:59:46 GMT

Difficulty: Intermediate

It’s becoming increasingly popular to embrace a vegan diet. Vegans eat an entirely plant-based diet and avoid any animal products or by-products.

Vegan-friendly gardening utilises plant-based composts, seaweed extracts, rock minerals and man-made fertilisers as nutrient sources for healthy plant growth. This should not be confused with organic gardening, which is at the opposite end of the horticultural spectrum and relies on plant, animal and fish by-products (excluding all man-made fertilisers and soil improvers).

Organic fruit, vegetables and herbs are reasonably easy to find in most markets and retailers. However, you will rarely see produce marked as “vegan-friendly”. This guide shows you how you can grow your own.

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Steps

Step 1

Starting a vegan-friendly vegie patch or home orchard from scratch? If you know animal-based fertilisers or soil improvers have been used on the property previously, you may prefer to grow in pots, tubs or new raised beds or vegie boxes for a couple of years until residues have disappeared. Use a premium quality potting mix free from animal by-products.

Garden soil that hasn’t been used for food production in the past three or four years should be fine. It’s safe to assume there will be no animal or fish by-products present.

Step 2

In the garden, good preparation is the key to success. Dig the plot over to a depth of at least 300mm. Break up any large clumps and remove rocks and debris. Add gypsum to help break up heavy clay and/or lime to sweeten very acidic soils (pH lower than 4.5) allowing watering or rain to wash them into the soil.

Spread a 100mm layer of plant-based compost over the surface and fork it in thoroughly before adding a complete fertiliser and rock minerals.

Leave the soil to stabilise for a couple of weeks, removing weeds by hand as they appear. Keep it moist (but not wet) by watering if it doesn’t rain.

Step 3

Sow seeds or plant seedlings into either your pots, vegie box or a prepared vegie patch. Water in seedlings with a weak seaweed solution to help them overcome transplant shock.

Protect your plants from snails and slugs by spreading spent coffee grounds or copper nails around young plants. These pests will avoid direct contact with either without being harmed.

Step 4

Strong, healthy plants are able to resist pests better than those struggling to find nutrients.

When seedlings are about 200ml tall, give them a boost with a liquid fertiliser that’s easily taken up the roots. Repeat every 3-4 weeks to keep them growing strongly, until they’re ready to harvest.

Keep weeds down by hoeing, hand pulling and mulching.

Some caterpillars and flying pests can wreak havoc in a vegie and herb garden if they are not controlled or kept at bay. Netting the garden, box or pots will prevent larger flying pests from laying eggs on or chewing your plants. The mesh should be fine enough to exclude them while still allowing pollinating insects through. You may need to remove the netting when your crops begin to flower so pollinators have access.

Traditional pest control methods, including sticky traps, bacterial insecticides and horticultural oils are not vegan-friendly because they kill insects and molluscs.

Step 5

Be prepared for highs and lows. It is inevitable you may lose some crops in your first couple of seasons to pests and possibly diseases. After harvesting and enjoying your first few crops, you should have built a small but ever-expanding knowledge bank that will help you modify your growing program to achieve the best possible outcomes from your vegan-friendly garden.

Materials

Hand-made and/or plant-based compost
Rock minerals
Seaweed plant and soil tonics
Premium quality potting mixes *
Premium soil improvers *
Gypsum
Garden lime
Complete, all purpose or specialised fertilisers *

* Always read labels on products carefully. Check the lists of ingredients and ingredient icons for mention of animal/fish by-products. Do not include mushroom compost in a vegan-friendly garden unless the packaging states free of animal by-products including stable manure.

Tools

Gardening gloves
Spade
Fork
Soil rake
Hoe
Hand trowel and fork
Wheelbarrow
Soil sieve
Watering can or hose with trigger nozzle

Images

How to build a low-level deck

Adam_W — Fri, 29 Jan 2021 02:33:08 GMT

Re: How to fill a raised garden bed

Nellstar — Sun, 12 Jul 2020 02:04:19 GMT

Thanks for the feedback, ill do some more research into it. Its hard to distinquish between real or fake facts on websites nowadays.

Re: How to fill a raised garden bed

Noelle — Sun, 12 Jul 2020 01:47:06 GMT

Polystyrene has been used in horticulture for many decades in growing and potting media to lighten the mixes and to improve drainage. It is preferred over perlite and vermiculite. It is also used in commercial horticulture/agriculture for the packing of crops for transport from market gardens and orchards to markets and eventually to greengrocers. It is quite stable and does not give off "harmful chemicals" when used and handled appropriately. It is safe to use around edibles.

In a raised vegie garden, where it is buried beneath the top 45 - 60cm of growing media, polystyrene is used as filler in the base of a deep box to improve drainage and to occupy space, to cut down on the overall volume of growing media required to fill the box. It sits below the root zone.

It is cheap - greengrocers are often more than happy to give boxes to you to cut down the expense of disposal. It isn't exposed to animals or wildlife so there's no danger of them eating it, and it doesn't break down to leach chemicals in underground water. It will compact over time but that's OK because fresh growing mix should be added to the top of the box every few years to maintain the depth.

So overall polystyrene is safe and practical to use in raised vegetable and herb beds and will not leach chemicals into the subsoil or groundwater.

Ordinary garden soil as filler compacts and doesn't drain well