Preparing a shower floor for a shower base

Hi @Laurens,

I trust it would help our members if you could go into a bit more detail about your project. What exactly does the custom-built base consist of, and how will it interact with the tub you are forming and the timber sides you're installing? You might like to show us some images of the area to better understand the stage you're up to.

It's best to have the floor as level as possible, and if anything sloping towards the drain is best. Generally, the basic steps would be to sheet the walls and raise the height of the floor to be correct. You would then waterproof your walls, floor and joints. The base would be placed over the top and the tiling completed. You should find this step-by-step guide useful: How to waterproof a shower. Are you planning on doing the waterproofing yourself? If you are employing a professional, they'll be able to tell you exactly what needs to be done before they commence waterproofing the surfaces.

I'll be keen to see some images of the area and assist further. Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

I tried unsuccessfully to upload photos previously, the message was

"Your post has been changed because invalid HTML was found in the message body. The invalid HTML has been removed. Please review the message and submit the message when you are satisfied."

I will try again.

Photo number one is of the floor after rotted timber was removed and replaced. (the shower base was first put down 30 years ago and during that time another layer of tiles was added, possibly to try and seal the leaking shower.. The larger size ply on the right of the photo is to cover the back of a power point so as to protect the plumber. The remaining walls will also have infill added and then cement sheet over the top of that.

The next stage is to measure the size of the area in order to organise a custom base (That will be explored soon) The floor level can be raised then according to the base thickness and requirements for sealing

The photos also show the old water sealing (black layer) which is almost impossible to remove.

The 2nd photo shows a further problem and that is the size of the drain. It is about 44 mm wide which may be the result of having had a pipe introduced into the original pipe during a previous renovation. That problem will have to be explored and rectified.

Hi @Laurens,

If that floor is timber, you might like to start by cutting a sheet of James Hardie HardiePanel™ 1800 x 1200 x 15mm FC Flooring down and installing it over the top so you have a solid base to work with. Make sure you cut your new waste hole in the correct location. Once your Villaboard sheets have been installed on the walls, your waterproofing can be painted up and around a Kinetic 100mm In Pipe Puddle Flange. This is installed onto the drainage pipe to assist with draining away any water that leaks into the screed in case of a shower base failure. You can then screed to level the surface over the top.

You can follow these helpful guides in this order:

How to install villaboard in bathrooms

How to waterproof a shower

How to screed a shower base

Although there might not be any specific regulations regarding electrical wiring in the wall cavity next to a shower, I'd consider checking with an electrician to see how they feel about having that power point backing onto the shower. As you've experienced, showers can leak, and it's not a great practice to have power points that close to a potential water source. Perhaps an electrician could relocate it for you?

Mitchell

G'Day Mitchell

I am going to need a custom made shower base with a lip on 4 sides.

The base that was removed had 2 layers of tiles by the time we got to the original floor which was heavily tarred and in some places rotted so the largest part of the particle board floor was removed. That left a drop of approx 80mm on the hob side

It is now intended to replace the floor with particle board flooring before laying a foundation of Compressed Hardipanel JH 15mm thick and then adding the Custom Made Shower Base.

Is it possible to get a custom made shower base with a lip on 4 sides to tuck in behind tiles for waterproofing

Shower base.jpg

Hi @Laurens,

Were you after a tile-over tray or a shower base? Generally, when installing a shower base the tiles are started just above the edge and abutted to it. A tile-over tray has lips on it for tucking under the tiles. Our trays come with lips on three sides as the fourth is used for access. Are you creating an entrance with a step over hob on the fourth side that will be tiled?

Mitchell

My inclination is to go for a shower base (no fiddly tiling)

I want an edge that can be tucked in behind the tiles/wall to ensure no leaks

The entrance already has a hob which I am trying to work with. Tiling of the hob is an option, I could reduce the size of the hob but it is made of bricks laid on side, or I could raise the floor higher..
I am not confident that the floor of the bathroom is properly sealed otherwise I could remove the hob...

Its all a case of "suck it and see"

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K1889rjISd0

@Laurens,

If you are waterproofing the walls and down onto the floor beneath the shower base, this ensures that any leaks don't do any damage. Water still penetrates through the tile grout and moves down the wall. The waterproofing layer captures it and prevents it from entering the timberwork. Where the tiles meet the top of the shower base, a silicone seal is caulked. I understand what you are saying though if there were a lip behind the tiles, there wouldn't be a chance of the silicone leaking.

Let me mention @redracer01 to find out if he's ever seen a shower base that lips up behind the tiles.

Mitchell

redracer01

Hello @Laurens

Having read the conditions of your request perhaps the only way to achieve it is to waterproof the lip of the acrylic tray to provide that formation you want to happen. By water proofing to the edge and over the acrylic base lip, it will provide that tuck behind the tile that you wish to put in. I would say depending on the tray that you purchase will determine how the layout will happen. But @MitchellMc 's description of installation is correct FC sheeting is necessary to provide you with a stable base for tiling. Both at the bottom and the side walls of your shower. Water proofing is then applied to the entire area. You can then place the tray over the waterproofed area. This will now provide you with a very good seal against water leaks. Then add more water proofing to meet and go over the shower base lip. When tiling is carried out the tiles should end up right over the lip of the tray and a strong silicone seal can be applied at the bottom of the shower where the acrylic shower lip meets the wall tile. I suspect that there are private companies out there that make and build custom shower bases but as I recall they are for tilling. Perhaps a second opinion from a mate who is builder or tiler can give you more ideas before committing to a course of action. My only other suggestion is to remove the third wall and install a regular 2 sided shower with an acrylic wall liner giving you the highest form of water proofing in a shower. I've posted some videos below just to give you ideas.

Cheers,

Red

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK5tuRdEGWU

Having had a good look at all the options I think a tile-over-tray might now be my best option in order to guaranteed proper waterproofing in which case I will need to have the lip on 4 sides.. (that is possible I hope... )

I would feel very comfortable to have a tray that has 6mm villa board over the lip especially if I have used the rubber self adhesive tape to further seal the lip to the wall before putting the villa board on it (the cement sheet wall will also be waterproofed)

I am paying particular attention to waterproofing as I cant afford the cost or embarrassment of having a upstairs leaking shower once this job has been completed

redracer01

Hello @Laurens

Now that you've decided to go in this direction I suggest having a look at the Mondella shower base tile tray. It has 4 lips! However it will now depend on your available space. Please have a look and see if it will fit. Otherwise you may have to source your tile tray from an independent shop that does custom sizes. Please keep us updated so that members with possibly the same situation can see what you've done to solve it.

Cheers

Red

Screenshot_2021-05-19-06-29-57-73_3aea4af51f236e4932235fdada7d1643.jpg

The size of the area where the new base has to go is 955mm X 1055mm. That leaves no room for expansion, if indeed I need to?

The reason I initially set my sights on a manufactured base with a lip was simply to avoid the tiling of the base but after watching multiple videos and getting advice on shower pan manufacturers it may be a case of having to use the compressed cement sheet base, waterproofing and tiling over a screed...

The project started out as being reasonably well planned but because the base area is a weird size and the shower drain pipe had already been reduced by previous modifications to 44mm it is now a step by step project... After taking the floor out I saw that the shower drain did not have an water trap so that is now to be included as well, the modification will allow me to move the drain closer to the centre of the shower base.

Getting hold of the 100mm puddle flange is the next challenge

Received this in an email today... It expands my options ..

I will now do some more preparation on the walls of the area where the base will be dropped in and then come and talk to Bunnings about the base size I need

"Yes we are able to supply a custom tile-over shower tray to those measurements. Please contact your nearest Bunnings Warehouse for pricing, their fine line number is 0177604 (description of this item number is 'custom up to 1000 x 1500')

For all custom products, we allow approx 2-3 weeks from ordering for delivery to the Bunnings store. If you wish to go ahead with an order, the order form attached to this email will need to be completed and emailed to us from the store"

It's great to hear that we can assist in ordering your custom tile tray with lips on three sides @Laurens. Please let us know if you need any assistance with the process or when your next questions arise. We're here to help.

Mitchell

4 X sides

I apologise, @Laurens. I should have been more specific. I was just pointing out that the Wet Area Solutions Custom Up To 1000 x 1500mm Shower Tile-Over Tray is "Supplied with pre-folded flashing on 3 sides as pictured to suit 6mm wall board". You had previously let us know you were after four sides, so I just wanted to make sure you knew that this has only three sides.

Mitchell

The Wet Area Solutions Base turned out to be exorbitantly expensive so I have gone back to basics.

I now have the yellow tongue flooring in place and am about to add the cement sheeting to the walls before putting down the screed.

What product do you sell that I can use to waterproof the yellow tongue and the cement sheeting walls?

Hello @Laurens,

It's good to know you've made progress with your renovations. Because you mentioned you are using cement sheeting and screed on the yellow tongue, I suggest using Dunlop Express Shower Waterproofing Kit. It is a complete kit and makes it convenient to use. On that note please don't forget to place your fall on the screed so that you get good water drainage. Please note before purchasing to make sure the product will cover the necessary area of your shower build.

We look forward to seeing photos or updates you can provide with the progress of your shower remodeling.

Eric

Is there a smaller version, that kit is far too big for my 1m X 1 m base?

Adam_W

The other option, which has the advantage of ultimately keeping the floor level a little lower, is to use a suitable fibre-cement flooring sheet.

Hi @Laurens,

There is a smaller quantity of waterproofing, the Crommelin 1L Shower Waterproofing Membrane. It is a stand alone product so you will need to purchase the other items necessary to complete your waterproofing of the shower area. Please note that if you use the Crommelin product to make sure that you buy compatible items with the Crommelin waterproofing membrane.

Please let us know if you need any more information.

Eric

Screeding is close... I have added a wall shelf which necessitated removing a couple of old tiles, Ive added all the previously removed wall sections, scraped off old tile glues and the next step is to prime all the surfaces before applying the Crommelin Waterproofing and the reinforcing bandage. Then another 2 coats of waterproofing over that, then the screed..
Im obviously taking my time as there are other things that occupy my day.sealed then glued

Im still not able to load photos with the exception of the odd one that slips through.
I did get an email offering me an email address to send them to but I have lost that. Can I get that email address again pls?

Hello @Laurens

Thank you for sharing those project updates. Just a friendly reminder that when posting photos they must be either in jpg or png format. Please make sure to click on the upload images function at the bottom of the reply page and press done to apply the changes. Pasting or dragging the images into the reply page does not work. If you still have issues with posting pictures please let me know.

Eric

Jason

Hi @Laurens,

Sorry for the trouble you are having with uploading photos. We are aware of a problem with iPad users being unable to upload photos and our team is trying to solve the issue. Are you using an iPad?

Feel free to email photos to workshop@bunnings.com.au and we can add them to your post for you.

Thanks for your patience,

Jason

I am using an iMac to update this site... But photos are a problem. The photos are in the jpeg format

Hello @Laurens

Thank you for getting back to us and telling us the format of your pictures. You can send your photos here workshop@bunnings.com.au and we will post them for you. As @Jason has mentioned there are issues with IPad users being unable to upload photos.

We look forward to seeing your photos.

Eric

This photo is of the 19 mm Cement sheet which was added to raise the floor as well as prevent any opportunity for the yellow tongue, which will go on top, to bend or move.

Yellow tongue with the countersunk flange installed. This is later screwed down to the floor joists.

Adding cement sheets to the walls.

Cement sheets added to the walls and joins filled in with Crommelin Silicon WP Plus.

Carefully cut the tiles to add a shelf.

Tile pieces removed and ready to fit the Shower Shelf.

Glued the shelf in.

Taped up all the joints and applied Shelleys Flexiseal to the joints as well as using the remainder of the Flexiseal to waterproof the yellow tongue.

Flexiseal is a very good adhesive and waterproofer but incredibly messy and hard to get off the hands and tools.

StevieB

Thanks for keeping us updated on your project @Laurens.

It's great to follow along and we're always happy to help along the way.

Stevie