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How to build a toilet roll holder shelf

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Difficulty: Beginner

Organise and decorate your bathroom or powder room with this streamlined shelf that not only looks attractive but also makes fantastic use of space.

 

Inspiration for this creation comes from the extremely popular Toilet roll holder shelf by Bunnings Workshop member @Rodney. Thanks again for sharing your wonderful project with us Rodney.

Steps

Step 1

Start by cutting your 2.4m length of 110mm timber into four pieces at 600mm long using your handsaw or mitre saw. Each of these cuts will be at a 45-degree angle.

 

1.1 Timber cut to length.jpg  1.2 Timber cut at 45 degrees.jpg

Step 2

Lay your pieces out to check that the 45-degree cuts match up to form 90-degree corners. It is likely that there will be some gaps. You can dry clamp the pieces to get an idea of how close your cuts have been. Some slight sanding might be necessary to ensure minimal gaps.

 

2.1 Checking cuts.jpg  2.2 Gaps present.jpg  2.3 Dry clamping.jpg

Step 3

Painter’s tape can be used to help form the corners. Lay a piece of tape down and place two of your timber pieces onto it so the edges line up correctly. Apply PVA glue to the inside of the corner. Bring the timbers together to complete the corner. Repeat this on the other three corners.

 

3.1 Tape method.jpg  3.2 Glue applied.jpg  3.3 Folding sides.jpg  3.4 Sides folded.jpg

Step 4

Once all the corners have been brought together, use a pull strap to hold everything securely. After the strap has been tightened, insert timber blocks under it to increase the tension. Additional clamps can also be used to ensure the corners are at a right angle.

 

4.1 Strap in place.jpg  4.2 Strap tensioned.jpg  4.3 Strap and clamps in place.jpg

Step 5

Pre-drill three holes per corner with a 3mm drill bit. Counter sink the holes deep enough that the head of the screw will be below the surface of the timber. Drive in the screws.

 

5.1 Predrilling screw holes.jpg  5.2 Countersinking screw holes.jpg  5.3 Installing screws.jpg  5.4 Screws installed.jpg

Step 6

Measure across a diagonal between two corners. Take this measurement and transfer it onto the 1.2m length of 90mm timber. Create a 90 degree on both ends of the timber by intersecting two 45-degree cuts. Apply glue to the inside of the corners you measured between and insert the timber.

 

6.1 Measuring diagonal.jpg  6.2 90 degree cut on end.jpg  6.3 90 degree cut on end.jpg  6.4 Glue added to corners.jpg

Step 7

Remove the tape and clamps and then apply putty over all the screws and any gaps from your 45-degree cuts. Wait for this to dry and then sand back. Apply a second skim coat and then repeat the sanding process.

 

7.1 Putty applied over screws holes.jpg  7.2 Putty applied to gaps on corners.jpg  7.3 First coat of putty sanded back.jpg  7.4 Second coat of putty.jpg  7.5 Second coat of putty sanded back.jpg

Step 8

Begin brushing you stain onto the timber. Use a rag or paper towel to wipe off excess.

 

8.1 Applying stain.jpg  8.2 Wiping back excess stain.jpg  8.3 Unit stained.jpg  8.4 Unit stained.jpg

Step 9

Predrill holes with a 3mm drill bit to suit your mounting hangers. Install the hangers with timber screws.

 

Congratulations. You have now completed your toilet roll holder shelf. Expect plenty of admirers of your handiwork.

 

9.1 Predrilling mounting holes.jpg  9.2 Mounting hanger.jpg  9.3 Complete.jpg

Materials

  • One piece of 2.4m Tasmanian Oak measuring 110 x 19mm
  • One piece of 1.2m Tasmanian Oak measuring 90 x 12mm
  • 12 timber screws 10 x 38mm
  • 100ml PVA glue
  • 250ml teak brown stain
  • One set mitre/corner clamps
  • Two hanging plates
  • One 4m pull tie down strap
  • Paint brush
  • One roll painter’s tape
  • Timber putty
  • Sandpaper

Tools

  • Handsaw or mitre saw
  • Mitre box
  • Drill driver
  • 3mm drill bit
  • Countersink bit
  • Tape measure

Images

1.1 Timber cut to length.jpg

1.2 Timber cut at 45 degrees.jpg

2.1 Checking cuts.jpg

2.2 Gaps present.jpg

2.3 Dry clamping.jpg

3.1 Tape method.jpg

3.2 Glue applied.jpg

3.3 Folding sides.jpg

3.4 Sides folded.jpg

4.1 Strap in place.jpg

4.2 Strap tensioned.jpg

4.3 Strap and clamps in place.jpg

5.1 Predrilling screw holes.jpg

5.2 Countersinking screw holes.jpg

5.3 Installing screws.jpg

5.4 Screws installed.jpg

6.1 Measuring diagonal.jpg

6.2 90 degree cut on end.jpg

6.3 90 degree cut on end.jpg

6.4 Glue added to corners.jpg

7.1 Putty applied over screws holes.jpg

7.2 Putty applied to gaps on corners.jpg

7.3 First coat of putty sanded back.jpg

7.4 Second coat of putty.jpg

7.5 Second coat of putty sanded back.jpg

8.1 Applying stain.jpg

8.2 Wiping back excess stain.jpg

8.3 Unit stained.jpg

8.4 Unit stained.jpg

9.1 Predrilling mounting holes.jpg

9.2 Mounting hanger.jpg

9.3 Complete.jpg

 

6 Replies
TedBear
Valued Contributor

Looks good @MitchellMc . I especially like your method of using painters tape to align and lever the corners up into the correct position. It also protected the wood where you drilled it, so if a project was using countersunk holes instead of filled holes the tape would help keep the hole edges neat too. I have never done that, but will in future.

There's always something to learn in this Workshop.

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Thanks for your kind comments @TedBear! I've been experiencing some issues when cutting on my compound mitre saw, which was recently given to me. This project included. It was a second-hand unit, and I couldn't quite figure out why my cuts have been off by a degree or so. As you can imagine, out of square mitre cuts on a shelf like this is troublesome, but as it is a budget-friendly unit, I just presumed it was within the manufacturer's tolerances. I've finally worked out that the fence is bent out of shape. I believe that it's taken an impact at some stage and distorted. This is most likely why the previous owner got rid of it.

 

Painter's tape certainly comes in handy around the workshop. I generally use it to cover any timber I don't want to tear out. It's great when using a jigsaw, as I place it on the bottom and top of the timber then cut through it.

 

Mitchell

 

TedBear
Valued Contributor

Sounds like another project to post @MitchellMc .... how you fixed the out of alignment fence.

Will you put another thin piece in front of the bent face to give you a new guiding surface perhaps...?

I had a similar issue and made a complete new fence out of hardwood. It's been working well for a number of years now.

I used round-head screws and sunk the heads into holes that accommodated them tightly, to make sure there was no allowance for movement back or forth due to slip or the screws loosening, as could happen with countersunk heads. (My fence was attached by screws from the top into the metal base.)

Using tape will help to get clean cuts for sure.  I also cut down the line first with a sharp knife, which also helps give a clean cut edge - and it is also clear where the line is.

If I need the line to be very clear, such as a fine cut with a hand-saw, I rub some pencil lead into the knife cut and then clean the excess away.  Thanks for your tips.

MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

I think I'll follow your method and replace the fence completely @TedBear. That sounds like the best option for me.

 

Mitchell

 

Nathan3
Newbie
  • Neat & well made shelf, but has it got enough capacity for toilet rolls, considering the way people horde toilet paper from the shops throughout the pandemic. 😆
MitchellMc
Bunnings Team Member
Bunnings Team Member

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Nathan3. It's terrific that you joined us, and many thanks for jumping into the conversation.

 

The shelf can carry 20 rolls fully laden, so any hoarder should be content with that storage. As someone who didn't panic buy and went without during that period, I can't say the shelf has ever seen 20 rolls on it.

 

Were you considering building this project? I trust it would look fantastic in your own bathroom.

 

We look forward to hearing all about your projects and plans around the house and garden and would encourage you to let us know any time you need assistance with them or have something to share with the community. You'll find tonnes of inspiration here as our creative members contribute their own projects every day.

 

Mitchell

 

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