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Hi @trentdi,   Thank you for your question on how to clean textured porcelain tiles.   As you would have read, porcelain is a very dense, non-porous material. Its low absorption rate means th... See more...
Hi @trentdi,   Thank you for your question on how to clean textured porcelain tiles.   As you would have read, porcelain is a very dense, non-porous material. Its low absorption rate means that sealers cannot penetrate the surface to provide any substantial benefit. Sealers are generally designed to fill the pores and create a protective barrier, but with porcelain, there's little to no pore space to fill.   I'd certainly start with pressure cleaning the tiles to see what does and doesn't come off. Porcelain is a very non-porous material, so I would be surprised if the staining penetrates deeply enough to require much more than a pressure clean. If you find stains appearing that need to be addressed, you could use Davco 1L Tile And Grout Cleaner or possibly Lithofin KF Vitra Clean 1 litre which is specifically formulated for use on porcelain and ceramic tiles and is offered by our friends at Beaumont Tiles.   You might also like to check out How to Clean Porcelain and Ceramic Tiles for some guidance on how to clean your porcelain tiles.   Allow me to tag some of our helpful members to see if they have any thoughts, @Noyade, @RenoRach, @Noelle, @projectmumdanni.   Let me know if you have any further questions.   Jacob  
Hi @Alysha16,   Hope all is well.   Just checking in to see how you are progressing with your barn door project?   Please let us know if you need any assistance. We look forward to seeing... See more...
Hi @Alysha16,   Hope all is well.   Just checking in to see how you are progressing with your barn door project?   Please let us know if you need any assistance. We look forward to seeing what you are able to build.   Jason  
Mirror is 1.2m x 1.2m About 25kgs,  with so many bracket options in Bunnings , looking for the optimal single bracket or screw to hold the weight of the weight against a metal stud behind the pla... See more...
Mirror is 1.2m x 1.2m About 25kgs,  with so many bracket options in Bunnings , looking for the optimal single bracket or screw to hold the weight of the weight against a metal stud behind the plaster wall. Hoping anyone has thoughts on how to tackle this?        
Hi @mlewin,   Thank you for your question and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you join us.   I'm sorry to say that you're unfortunately going to have to co... See more...
Hi @mlewin,   Thank you for your question and welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you join us.   I'm sorry to say that you're unfortunately going to have to contact a plumber for assistance with this one.   They'll be able to give you the advice and assistance you'll require to reroute your plumbing in line with the relevant Building Codes and Australian Standards.   The process will likely involve cutting the concrete to remove the old pipes using a Demolition Saw and then cutting new channels for the new plumbing lines.    Once the pipes are installed, they will be wrapped in foam such as Abelflex Self Adhesive Backed Expansion Joint Filler Foam to prevent cracking from the concrete that will be poured to fill the channels.   I'd suggest contacting a plumber to quote on the job and speaking about what you can do to assist and reduce your costs. They may be comfortable having your assistance on parts of the job, but it's always best to check.   Let me know if this is helpful and if you require any further assistance.   Jacob  
Hi @GwenH,   I agree with Dave-1 that it looks great and it's brilliant to see you can make use of recycled materials.   Just to add to the discussion, I believe the rust converter you have a... See more...
Hi @GwenH,   I agree with Dave-1 that it looks great and it's brilliant to see you can make use of recycled materials.   Just to add to the discussion, I believe the rust converter you have at home is saying it is not useful when applied directly to galvanised coatings.    The area where the rust has started to poke through has lost its galvanised coating, so a rust converter can be used effectively in those areas.   Following the process @MitchellMc has mentioned above will still be the best way to manage the rust.   Purely guessing, but due to the location of the screw holes in the metal frame, I think that 300MPT probably identifies a connection point shown in the building plan for its original use.   Let me know if there's anything else I can assist with.   Jacob  
Hello @Trever    Thanks for sharing your question about Ryobi adapters. Is the connector you are referring to a sliding brass coupler? Would it be possible for you to post a photo of the connecto... See more...
Hello @Trever    Thanks for sharing your question about Ryobi adapters. Is the connector you are referring to a sliding brass coupler? Would it be possible for you to post a photo of the connector of your foam cannon? I could only find the Ryobi Backwards Compatible Adapter and I'm not sure if this will fit your foam cannon.   However, Ryobi does have a Ryobi 600ml Pressure Washer Detergent Bottle. It is compatible with the pressure washer units RACPWS1, RACPW140, RACPWS2, RACPWS3. Any extra information or photo of your preferred adapter would be very much appreciated. This will also help us to try and track it down and see if it is available.    If you need a hand posting the photos, please let me know.   Eric    
Hi @badmojo,   Where the gap is too wide, you should use filler rod stuffed into the crack to act as a backing for the sealant. The sealant can be applied quite wide. You might like to check out ... See more...
Hi @badmojo,   Where the gap is too wide, you should use filler rod stuffed into the crack to act as a backing for the sealant. The sealant can be applied quite wide. You might like to check out Application sealing floor joints on Sika's YouTube channel as an example of it in use.   There are tapes such as CAgroup Byute Flashing Tape that can be used in this application, but it will stand out a lot more than a sealant will.   It's entirely up to you what you choose to do, but my opinion is that the sealant will give a much better look when finished.   Let me know what you think.   Jacob  
Hello  First time poster , please excuse mess. I am looking to make a hidden door / feature wall from wood panels for this tiny euro laundry / will be broom storage. It has slanted celing from 2 me... See more...
Hello  First time poster , please excuse mess. I am looking to make a hidden door / feature wall from wood panels for this tiny euro laundry / will be broom storage. It has slanted celing from 2 metres - 2.3” and approx 1300 wide.  Looking online it looks like custom making doors from plywood would be thr best way to take advantage of storage above the machines. I have attached  few images of the kind of look.       
Hi @Buddingcloth,    Thanks for the additional info. Tt's wonderful to have another experienced member join the Bunnings Workshop community.    I'd like to extend a warm welcome and encourage you... See more...
Hi @Buddingcloth,    Thanks for the additional info. Tt's wonderful to have another experienced member join the Bunnings Workshop community.    I'd like to extend a warm welcome and encourage you to join in any discussions you are interested in and impart your knowledge and learned experiences where possible.   Jacob  
Hi @PatDIY_Dad,   Thank you for your question on installing a snap tee to an existing stormwater pipe.   While it should be a fairly simple job, it is worth noting that plumbing is a licenced... See more...
Hi @PatDIY_Dad,   Thank you for your question on installing a snap tee to an existing stormwater pipe.   While it should be a fairly simple job, it is worth noting that plumbing is a licenced and regulated industry governed by strict codes and standards. For this reason, you must understand your liability in relation to plumbing works. It may be worth contacting a plumber to carry out this job to ensure it follows the relative codes and standards.   With this being said, my understanding is that the advised method of installation is to snap the T fitting over the stormwater pipe and secure it in place with Protek 125ml Red Priming Fluid and Protek 125ml Type N Blue Cement Solvent.    Once secured in place and watertight you would use a hole saw to cut out the entry hole down the vertical part of the t-fitting. The largest hole saw you can fit down the vertical section of the t-fitting is going to be the best size for you because any size reduction will cause the flow of water to back up slightly.    My suggestion would be to pick up one of the t-fittings, and take it to the Tool Shop to compare the opening with the hole saws.    I'd assume the largest hole saw you could fit down the pipe will be around 90mm as you have said. Something like this Kango 92mm Hole Shot Bi-Metal Hole Saw would likely do the trick, but it is definitely worth comparing in-store before buying.   Let me know if you have any other questions.   Jacob  
As mentioned by JacobZ.   Application: you should inject the crevice and fill that (big caulking gun or hire an injector and compressor). Don't allow caulk it to overfill or ooze out of crevice. Yo... See more...
As mentioned by JacobZ.   Application: you should inject the crevice and fill that (big caulking gun or hire an injector and compressor). Don't allow caulk it to overfill or ooze out of crevice. You will need to do the fill at least 2 times, allowing the first to set. This makes the bond more even and flexible with temperature changes. It is important to make a seal which is consistent but doesn't really show itself. It should look like a bead inside the crevice. Some people think it should be touched or wiped to make a smooth finish. You don't need to do this. But 1 thing you must do before applying any beading is use an air gun on a compressor to blow out any rubbish or dust from the crevice before you start. Residual building material and dirt/dust can ruin a seal and allow ants to net.
Hello @Hana_DIY    Thank you for waiting, I'm afraid the third option is not available. I was hoping that the 40mm threaded extender was still in stock, but it's no longer available. Aside from w... See more...
Hello @Hana_DIY    Thank you for waiting, I'm afraid the third option is not available. I was hoping that the 40mm threaded extender was still in stock, but it's no longer available. Aside from what I've mentioned, one other thing you can do is to add an extension to the waste pipe with standard 40mm PVC fittings. I'll leave the choice up to you.   If you need further assistance, please let me know.   Eric  
Thanks for the response @JacobZ. Unfortunately the gaps are too wide for using a sealant. Is there a tape that I could use instead?
Thank you so much.   Appreciate your help. I will give a go and will let you know if i need further assistance.   Kind Regards, Adnan
Hi @adnanqureshi,   It's best to remove everything that wasn't the original slab. As concrete doesn't bond well to other concrete, it should be fairly easy to break it off and remove it all.   ... See more...
Hi @adnanqureshi,   It's best to remove everything that wasn't the original slab. As concrete doesn't bond well to other concrete, it should be fairly easy to break it off and remove it all.   Let me know how you go, I'm here to help if you run into any issues.   Jacob  
Thank you so much Jacob.   One last question,when i am chipping from inside definately will need to remove/chip outside as well yeah? Just to make sure its like nothing and then wash the area/dry a... See more...
Thank you so much Jacob.   One last question,when i am chipping from inside definately will need to remove/chip outside as well yeah? Just to make sure its like nothing and then wash the area/dry and then use the foam and the sealant.   Hopefully this will fix the issue.   Thank you
Hi, I had plumbing pipes put in as a provision under the floor in my studio. I now want to change the layout. Do I need to cut the concrete and dig up all the existing pipes and create a new channel ... See more...
Hi, I had plumbing pipes put in as a provision under the floor in my studio. I now want to change the layout. Do I need to cut the concrete and dig up all the existing pipes and create a new channel in the slab for the new layout? the pipes are all along this wall.        Below is an image of the sewer pipe coming into the building, with the stormwater to the left.  
Hi @badmojo,   Thank you for your question about sealing a gap between the brick and rendered wall on the outside of your home.   I'd suggest you use Sika Concrete Grey Sikaflex Pro+ Polyuret... See more...
Hi @badmojo,   Thank you for your question about sealing a gap between the brick and rendered wall on the outside of your home.   I'd suggest you use Sika Concrete Grey Sikaflex Pro+ Polyurethane Sealant. It is a high-quality polyurethane sealant that is perfect for sealing gaps in masonry materials and concrete such as this.    If you don't already have one, you'll need to pick up a Caulking Gun to apply the sealant.    You might like to check out How To Silicone a Gap for some guidance, but please note the bead you apply will need to be much thicker than that in this example.   Let me know if you have any further questions.   Jacob  
Hi @Neo19,   Many thanks for your question about adding a guardrail to your bed.   I'd suggest you use a piece of 285 x 19mm 1.8m DAR Pine Premium for the main structure of the rail.    T... See more...
Hi @Neo19,   Many thanks for your question about adding a guardrail to your bed.   I'd suggest you use a piece of 285 x 19mm 1.8m DAR Pine Premium for the main structure of the rail.    The edges will need to be rounded using a random orbital sander as they are quite sharp due to the planing process carried out on the timber.    Once tidied up, you can paint it with a Low VOC interior paint such as Dulux UltraAir.   I've done up a render of my idea for how to attach it to the bed.     This method would cause no damage to the bed and can easily be removed if you use Richmond M10 x 60mm Hand Bolts and Richmond M10 Hand Nuts.    Let me know what you think.   Jacob  
  Hi,  I am converting a little concave area of my house into a space for the washing machine and dryer. No wash tub or sink. Subfloor is concrete with tiles on top. I will also tap into the... See more...
  Hi,  I am converting a little concave area of my house into a space for the washing machine and dryer. No wash tub or sink. Subfloor is concrete with tiles on top. I will also tap into the water and power from behind the wall (left wall of pic) which is the toilet with a hand basin. I will paint the walls in a bathroom paint with mold resistance however, within the Australian standards, do I need to waterproof this area or is this enough to be considered water resistant in this scenario.  Just wanting to ensure I am doing the right thing legally. Thank you in advance.