How to cover a concrete retaining wall?

[ashleasmith]

 

Hi everyone,

Hoping to get a little bit of advice ☺️

The above photos show the front landscaping for our new home, and I’d like to make some improvements to the concrete retaining wall.

 
I am thinking of extending the retaining wall to meet the garden bed, eliminating that annoying little patch of lawn between the bed and the retaining wall (it’s really annoying to mow!).

Thinking of adding an end post on the right and cutting down some concrete sleepers to slide in.

Secondly though, and this is the part I need some advice about -

I don’t like the look of the concrete retaining wall, and I’d like to look at covering it somehow.

I had considered covering it with blueboard and rendering over it, but I know a certain gap has to be left between the wall and the blueboard to prevent water damage. The main issue I have with this is that the gap between the retaining wall and the footpath is only around 4cm, so not much room for a timber frame and then blueboard on the top.

Another option I had thought of, was to perhaps use composite decking (like Ekodeck) vertically to achieve a similar look to my inspo photo above. I’d also want to cover the top of the retaining wall as well as the front. Has anyone ever done this before, and what does everyone thing about how this might look?

Also FYI, I’m planning on cutting down the metal posts along the retaining wall - initially, our developer had requested everyone in the estate to have a front fence, but no one is doing it and we don’t want one lol

Thanks

Ash

[Jason]

Congratulations on your new home @ashleasmith. This must be such an exciting time for you. It looks terrific and I'm sure you'll be able to improve it further.  

Let me tag some helpful community members for their thoughts on your project: @Jewelleryrescue, @DIY4Knuckleheds, @Adam_W, @royq and @Shannon.

Our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. expert @EricL will also be happy to assist as soon as possible.

In the meantime, I would recommend you check out the fantastic advice from @Adam_W and @pete_brig in this previous discussion: How to cover a retaining wall by @Crash76.      

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. We look forward to reading more about your projects and plans.

Jason

[EricL]

Hello @ashleasmith 

Your proposed ideas of extending the retaining wall and covering it with composite decking is definitely achievable. My first suggestion regarding your extension to the retaining wall is to identify the parts you'll be using. Unfortunately, there is the possibility that your current concrete sleepers might differ slightly in size from the ones available at the store. I propose double checking the concrete sleeper post and the concrete sleeper size and thickness to make sure they are compatible with your current wall.

In regards to covering the retaining wall with composite decking, I suggest building a timber frame using 42 x 18mm 5.4m Moulding H3 Treated Pine FJ Primed 4 Edge Pencil Round LOSP. This frame can then be glued and anchored onto the concrete surface of the retaining wall. Composite decking such as Ekodeck can then be mounted onto the timber frame. 

Having a timber frame means that you won't have to drill so many holes into the concrete surface. It will be easier to mount the composite decking and create the look you're aiming for. The timber frame is only 18mm thick and the Ekodeck is 19mm, when joined together they will give you a total of 37mm. Which means that it will be just under the 40mm limit and will technically not reach the footpath.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @TedBear for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

[Dave-1]

Good Afternoon @ashleasmith 

I think @EricL 's suggestion really works. I hadnt thought of using a thinner piece of timber as a timber frame or glueing it to fasten it (id still be tempted to put a bolt through it lol butthats me) 

I remember when you first asked the question about the concrete edge This covering will really make your house pop. As for the top part of the screen/retaining wall you could fasten the same timber on the rear of the existing concrete sleepers to give width support and allow you to screw the timber slat to the top. Is their a distance in width you are thinking of?

Dave

[DIY4Knuckleheds]

Hi Ashlea, have you considered covering the concrete with a stone veneer. Check out this video. It's an oldie but you might get the idea.

Cheers,

Shane 👍

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cex2_jnOy9o 

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @ashleasmith 

I used  marble tiles to cover a cement besser block wall but there are many other  varients you can glue onto the wall directly  with tile glue. I would dig out that grass  strip put in 50mm concrete and tile over that to  as if it was part of the wall/  

Eco deck costs a bomb  I would rather use wood simulated  ceramic tiles that are so real looking these days as it will last  your life time.

I enclose my marble clade wall to help you think about options.  Notice I also  covered some ground area with  cement and tile  behind  letter box.

Besser blocks capped with marble tiiles

[ashleasmith]

Hi Shane @DIY4Knuckleheds ,

Thanks so much for your suggestion and this video - I actually really like the look of this and it’s something I would definitely consider doing!

What bonding agent do you think they’ve used, or what would you suggest?

And what would you suggest doing for the top edge in my case? I wouldn’t want something with too much overhang because the retaining wall butts up again the grass. Could I just do the top edge in the same stone veneer but ensuring that the top row on the front side sits up enough to meet with the top side so that the two stone pieces make a nice join?

Lastly, obviously my retaining wall isn’t all one surface level - there are indents between each sleeper. Would I need to fill these somehow and bring them to level before installing stone veneer over the top?

Thanks so much!

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @ashleasmith 

Tile  glues are designed for wet areas some even are submerged in pool water you only have a relativly small area to do (as tile glue is reasonably expensive on  larger areas,)

No need to fill the  wall gaps(indents) the glue and stone will span across it with ease. I would  tile  both sides of the wall for a finished  look and cut a capping stone on top to cover over  both tiled egdes as you look down.

So just to be clear put tiles/stone work on both sides of the wall level/ flush with the wall top. Now cut a cover plate that spans over the wall inner brick and both edges So when you look down  all you see is the stone top as the edges are hidden.

On the grass side ideally you want the cladding to  be just below the grass level  50mm or so. you may wish to scrape  the dirt away to place your cladding on a cleaned wall. On My wall I simply put a 100mm stone cladding lip all the way down the dirt side just to give the wall a solid marble wall look.

On the street side start your full tile at the top and  cut the bottom tile to match the street scape /path levels this way  the odd cut is placed at ground level and is not noticable and your wall looks lovely level and square.

 Starting your full tile at the top sounds crazy right but it is a simple measurement  process  but looks better later EG if your  cladding is 300mm square From the wall top mark a line on the wall at 300mm plus 1 to 3mm down  for your prefered grout line gap and Tile spacers. And next line 600mm plus 2 grout lines . The last row  will need to be precut to match the path rising angle.

Also Pre cut your capping tile/ stone ALLOW extra 4 -6 mm  plus  for each side for glue thickness,  If you capping both sides add 2 times 4-6mm on your capping stone width.

Test your tiles against the wall to make sure they fit properly and have grout spacing built in. Keep these tiles together ready for gluing.

Think of it as a jigsaw puzzle you need to plan each piece and pre cut it ready for glueing . As you go lay out your tiles in order ready. When tiling starting with lowest tile first at ground level, Then insert a aluminium 30mm x 30mm x 3mm angle on top of the first row (the weight of the new tiles will hold it in place.) to create a dead straight tile row  all the way to the top.  Normally a straight edge is at the bottom on a level wall.

I hope this makes some sense to you the message really is plan ahead and test your pieces for fit.

[ashleasmith]

Sorry I should have been clear, I probably do prefer the stone veneer over the tiled look, but do really appreciate your suggestions on how I should approach this! ☺️

[Jewelleryrescue]

Hi @ashleasmith 

No Problem  it was  me confusing you,

Stone , tiled or timber  veneer is pretty much  all the  same  process as a simple cladding  process a  cut stone is the same as a cut tile so interchange the words around and you will  get the general  ideas at least

Cutting some stone is possibly going to take some speciality gear diamond saw for one or abrasive stone  cutting disks. For the likes of stack stone as an example.