How to keep pests away from hot water system under kitchen sink?

Thanks! How does it compare with other baits in its mechanism of action? Thought other baits kill offspring if the bait eater has offspring? Boric acid for example causes dehydration. Would be interesting to know the principle beforehand.

Hi @st22

I believe that Cockroach 30g Pestxpert 2 In 1 Cockroach Bait has active biocide agents included in its mix. One attacks the nervous system of the insect and the other one disrupts the growth of the larva.

In addition to the suggestion made, I recommend using Hovex 350g Ant Spider Cockroach Barrier Spray. This forms an effective barrier that prevents any other insect from approaching from the outside. I propose spraying the entire area where the hot water cylinder is and any possible entrance where cockroaches may enter.

Due to the warm conditions inside the cabinet, you will have to spray again earlier than the recommended six months as the heat will tend to evaporate the barrier inside.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Thanks

Any comments on sealing the entire cabinet so that it is free of holes - the doors would be able to open still - but insect proofed & usually closed?

Hi @st22,

It's great to see you've already received some excellent advice.

Ideally, your cabinetry should already be free from holes. However, the likely point where the cockroaches get inside is through cracks or around pipework. You can fill these with expanding foam.

Before you go about trying to fill any holes, I'd recommend the following:

Remove everything from the cabinet that is not essential and find a new home for it. Dispose of anything that you don't 100% need as it is likely infested with cockroaches eggs, and you'll spread them elsewhere.

Pick up some Simple Green All-Purpose, Glitz Pine Disinfectant, bags of rags, expanding foam and a pack of Cockroach Bombs.

Clean every surface you can get to in the cabinet with the all-purpose cleaner. Remember to pay attention to the base, walls and the heater itself. Try to get around the back of the heater as far as possible, as the rear likely has more roach activity than the front. Once you've used a rag, place it in a bag you'll later throw away. Ideally, you'll want to clean the surfaces so well that it looks like you could eat off them.

Liberally disinfect all surfaces thoroughly.

Assuming this is an electric heater, turn off the power to the heater and all electrical devices nearby. If this is a gas heater, do not use a cockroach bomb. You likely need to turn the heater off at the switchboard. Place a Cockroach bomb inside the cabinet leaving the doors open. They can't be used in a confined space with the doors closed. This might be an excellent opportunity to add a second bomb in the same room and fumigate the whole area. This will help in preventing an outbreak in the room and house. Read all safety directions and instructions before setting off the bomb.

Fill any holes in the cabinetry with the expanding foam. Spray the majority of it into the cavity behind the gap, and it will fill up into the cabinet. Excess can be trimmed away after it has cured.

Lay your preferred baits in the area and apply barrier spray to the entrance of the cabinet. Also, spray it liberally down behind the heater.

After a few days, inspect the cabinet. Remove any dead cockroaches and clean any newly soiled areas. Disinfect the whole cabinet once again.

Anything less than what I've mentioned above, and I feel you'll be fighting a losing battle. The cockroaches are not only attracted to the heat but also by the other cockroach activity in the cabinet. You need to remove all of them at the same time. I believe the cockroach bomb is an essential step as you have no way of killing the cockroaches behind the heater without it. Cleaning is also imperative as the soiled areas need to be removed, which will include a large number of eggs.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Thanks There is some old foam there already - why not silicone sealant - what is the difference?

Taking out the vulcan requires taking out the kitchen oven first, I do not know how to do it, it does not have a normal plug. Then the cupboard side can be removed and the vulcan from there. As far as I know it also does not have a normal plug like a fridge does.

Thanks.

There's no reason why you couldn't use silicone sealant on the more minor gaps/cracks @st22. It's not suitable for more significant gaps as it won't set if you pack in too much. It's just for laying a single bead of around 5mm.

The foam is used for filling large voids, similar to what you'd likely find behind your cabinetry.

Taking the heater out would be a fairly drastic step, though it would provide excellent access to clean behind it. Perhaps try what I've suggested above before going to those extremes.

Mitchell

CSParnell

@st22 if you can silicon or glue pieces of thin timber or ply over any large holes this would work as well.

Thanks a lot, I will check.

Two questions, naturally,

1. How to remove the old foam that is already there, just scrub it with a knife or there is a better way?

2. When putting new foam, does it need to sit inside the gap or a bit above it? The old foam is an about 5cm thick roll that sticks a lot above the surface.

Hi @st22,

You can cut the old foam with a knife or a saw. As opposed to cutting away all the foam already filling the holes, I'd recommend concentrating on any spots that aren't currently filled.

Mitchell

that is two before photos, if you have tips please let me know. For now, aiming to silicone seal these narrow gaps

and concerned about this on the left side, heaps of completely unsealed gaps to the next cupboard

thanks

Looking good @st22.

Silicone sealing those gaps is likely the best option, and I'd suggest expanding foam for the gap between cabinets. You're on the right track, remove debris > seal any obvious gaps > lay bates/spray.

Mitchell

Sorry I am a bit late and now PestXpert is out of stock. Any other recommendations please?

Hello @st22

Would it be possible for you to please tell me the closest store in your area? Can you also please tell me which PestXpert product were you specifically trying to get? I can check the other stores for you and find out if they have it in stock. I believe that PestXpert is the ideal product for your current situation.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Thank you for getting back to me. Messaged you my location. I hope it is ok. Please let me know which product to get. My search for 'pestxpert cockroach' on the website came with zero results. I can head to another store that is not nearest, if needed.

Hello @st22

Thank you for your patience. I suggest going to Bunnings Alexandria as they have all the items that you need.

I recommend having a look at the following:

These products are all designed to combat cockroaches and any other crawling insect. Please make sure to wear safety gear such as gloves, goggles and masks along with a long-sleeved shirt to protect yourself from overspray.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Thank you, Eric. Would spraying near the vulcan heating system suffice? The cockroaches also live near electronics such as laptops, modems. They even entered an empty carpetless room despite no food or moisture being present. Wondering how that could be handled. (Would avoid the bomb as we have a pet and do not anticipate washing all surfaces for a few hours before letting it in).