How to repair concrete wall for painting?

Hi prvz27

If this isnt your property why dont you simply cover up the wall with MDF or plywood strips, vinyl planks, large tiles, think of it as a large skirting board Electrical conduit can be added ontop of this later at need.

Or run the vinal floor up to cover the damage at the wall edges like they do in some hospitals it helps with hygiene and easy cleaning ie no corners.

Glue a decorative vinyl strip matching your shops theme along the wall or to waist level that suits you taste if that works for you.

Or the wall repaired down to the floor.

I notice in the pictures the wall seamed to be crumbling from underneath there was dust on the floor so maybe poking the cement on the walls would see how loose it is Chip away the bad stuff until firmer wall found. Use a bond crete and water liquid mixture to paint on and let it soak in and try and bind the loose stuff at need and this will help bond new cement to the wall too especially if you add some bondcrete to the cement mixture. But maybe this step is not needed.

I dont think i could get a perfect job first time around either but cement is a little forgiving until a week later after it is set over time. Even then you can sand and grind hard concrete at need but it is much better to get the best finish first time around. Wet the floor (for cement to bond) a do a bit and practice filling some of those divets in the cement floor if you comfortable filling those holes in the floor move to the wall?

Your project is only doing the lower wall section so you can use the high wall section to level too with you scraper/level so it is an eaiser job than a whole wall.

The hard bit is filling your jobs bulk thickness it looks 20mm ? of the damaged area as some time concrete can sag as you apply it on a wall if your not skilled at this. (the Bunning video shows a thin coat approx 5 to 10mm give or take or less. I Rendered a 60 cm high concrete fish pond wall at 30mm thickness in places (as i put a thicker fillet curve at the base to remove corners and maybe my mixture was wetter than it should be?) and it looked good when i finished rendering but the cement mixture over night it slipped down leaving a few 10mm cracks but it the rest of it was fine. I simply mixed some more cement and filled the cracks and smoothed the wall down with a straight edge it was good as intended and it holds water 100% as I added a thinner bondcrete cement paint over the top as a seal which i would have had to do anyway.

I would definatly do your DIY to save that money and there is a finesse to that work to do it perfectly first time but there is room for a beginner to do a decent job of it by running a level flat over the upper wall as a guide to scrape off the high spots and show up the low spots on the lower repaired area. If you dont get a perfect result first time you still have time in one day or so to shave of some high spots with a straight edge you could even sand it a bit if it is fairly hard. Mix some more cement for the low spots it seams to be easier to get a flat finish the thinner the fill. But follow MitchellMc 's tips and watching the bunnings how to clip How to hard plaster a brick wall. two or three times To try to perfect it first time around to save extra work. Play close attention to mixture ratios. The thicker the cement the harder it is to get right without complcations. On thicker cement applications it might be best to form up the cement (put a smooth board in front of it so it wont slide off the wall

But if you attempt this job and it looks bumpy you can use a scraper even a sander to take off the high bits and use more cement mixture to fill the low bits with in 1 to 2 days of original cement repair. I do this myself when concerting I am getting to old to stay on my hands and knees smoothing concrete too long with a trowel so I do my best then return the next day with a straight bit of timber and scrape the concrete smooth with a lump of straight timber to get the trowel marks out etc Concrete needs a week to get to get quite hard so next day is is still scrapable by hand tools. The cement can be marked by over zealous scraping so just repair as necessary, hay is you first time with concrete so there is a learning curve I am still learning from others too all the time.

In the how to clip this should be scraped with a level done on the same day after the mixture is firmed up on the wall ideally as the cement is softest still. My comments refer to the next day inspection and touch ups if required if found.

MitchellMc had some good ideas and watching the Bunnings how to clip How to hard plaster a brick wall. also helped refresh some info on leveling for my projects. While your at it fill the holes in floor with the same concrete for the walls with the left over cement mix.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/23665#Comment_23665

@Jewelleryrescue @MitchellMc

Thank you for your suggestions and for the very detailed answers, extremely helpful.

@Jewelleryrescue you are right, I have just thought why should I put so much effort into repairing the concrete on someone elses property when I can just cover it over with like a long wooden plank and paint it a colour to match the shop theme.

We're getting epoxy done on the floor, the epoxy guy said he won't be able to cover it all the way up, but he'll try his best.
So I guess what ever remains after the epoxy is done, we'll cover it with a wooden plank.
What wood would be best, just long MDF strips? Or something else? Should I get a single wide piece that covers the whole damage or get multiple pieces and stack these on top of each other to cover the damage? And use something like liquid nails to glue this wood onto the concrete wall?

Thanks!!!

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/74485#Comment_74485

Using 2440 x 1220mm 3mm Melamine White MDF would be a good solution @prvz27. You could get our team in-store to cut lengths off it to your required height and then adhere them to the wall with Liquid Nails. The melamine coating on the MDF is relatively robust, and if you're painting the walls, you shouldn't need to paint those sections. You could use standard 3mm MDF and paint it your desired colour.

Using the above sheet cut to the specific size you need would be better than stacking pieces.

Please let me know if you have further questions.

Mitchell

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/74485#Comment_74485

Hi prvz27

But covering the wall with what is a large skirting board is what you doing as a minimum and it is really all about decoration not structual. So you can cover that space in any material that suits You and your shop theme let your imagination take flight as to what you can do. Think about what materials you have seen at bunning as a start. You can even use bamboo fence screen as a an idea out of the normal it dosnt have to be timber. But to answer your question a single peice of wide pine planking up to 400mm is avaliable at bunnings or some thing like

Specrite 1800 x 405mm 18mm Timber Panel Spotted Gum laminate I/N: 0203002 $29

MitchellMc solutions of 3mm thick Melamine or Mdf is great cut to the same size hide all the holes. and the wall will look realativly flat if thats your design goal.

Spice up that option I have used before and it looks good painted to waist height with a top timber strip use bunnings

Easycraft 2400 x 1200mm 9mm Lining Panel White MRMDF Primed VJ 100mm

I wonder if you will like the following.

You have some big open walls there i would repair the walls like MitchellMc suggested with thin 3mm.

Then add some indian(or other) wall murals for some absolute eye popping points of intrest that is put up as strips of wall paper and the glue is non damaging to walls if i remember right and even reusable ie take then home and put new images up. Simple to do line up wall strips and press it onto the wall.

The cost of these murals is quite inexpensive too approx $500- $800 web site muralunique.com type in search in web site (India) type in your own custom dimentions for instant quote

This sample mural is 5 m long x 2,4 height cost $US642.69 full size customisable longer and higher to you dimentions or see other murals. I would cover the whole wall floor to ceiling it would be stunning as your shop height looks taller than 2,4m

Imagine that in your shop a floor to ceiling mural it would be like standing in the very grounds of the Taj Mahal will waiting for your food order. Further more matching epoxy floor colour to the mural like in the photo. crazy right. People might just order at your shop just to see mural.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/100831#Comment_100831

@Jewelleryrescue

Really appreciate the details and ideas there! The mural is a fantastic idea, this is something I was thinking of too, or even having a "Food Gallery" or "Food collage" on the big wall showcasing all of our dishes.

I've gotten started on collecting the material for the concrete wall, will post the final updates here.

Since we're all on the topic of shop fit outs, any ideas what I can do with this opening between our kitchen and front of house. I'm wanting to cover about one third of it from the top

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/117320#Comment_117320

Hello @prvz27

Would it be possible for you to show us the specific area you are trying to cover up? If you are putting up a wall between your kitchen and the front of your house, I suggest thinking about it very well as the more walls you put up the smaller the area will look. Having an open view from front to back gives your customer the satisfaction of seeing that the food is being prepared for them. I propose putting up a clear divider so that the area does not look covered up.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/126836#Comment_126836

Thanks for responding Eric.

Sorry I was meant to say this window.

I was thinking an easy DIY sliding door that goes up and down or side to side. It can be kept open when needed or closed when privacy is needed.

What do you guys think?

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/133176#Comment_133176

Hello @prvz27

I suggest having a look at the track sets and the timber panels you can use as a window cover for your wall opening. There is also the option of using EasyAS Plantation Shutters. I've placed some sketches below to give you an idea of what it might look like. Please tell me what you think.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/117320#Comment_117320

Hi prvz27

I like @EricL sliding door it looks neat tidy and functional. If you place a mural on this wall with the sliding window panel the mural can be cut and stuck on the sliding door and will complete the mural when closed.

Well to follow up on murals www.muralunique.com/product/custom-murals DIY custom murals might suit you as you can also use your own photos. No doubt you may wish to vary your menu in the future so I probably wouldnt do a mural of your food offerings as you will have to consider replacing the mural each food change Maybe changable food photos and prices hung over your plain wall. a Busy wall would detract from you food offerings displayed? Some how make your visual food offerings changable?. As you establish your business you will have more and more of your own great new ideas so it is usefull to develope a flexable system at the beginning. eg if prices are also on the food offerings you may need to vary food photos that as a minimum.

One possibilly if it was my shop with strictly takeaway would be big wall floor ceil mural, Put some seats along here in case of customers waiting. along the opposite wall people que along put you food offerings in classy picture frames and hang them like an art gallery on a plain coloured wall (or mirrored?? to reflect mural and give illusion of bigger shop if you wish this effect) so people can select from your choices as they walk in. (picture frames allow you to add specials and up date menu easily) Ummm rear wall with window and door put a price board? so customers can read it and see prices and extra menu items like desert items / sides to tempt them at order placing time when they hungry when face to face with order taker. See bunnings gallery supplies (as used by real gallerys)

Gallery@Home 2m White Track Picture Hanging Pack source Bunnings web siteinsert you food photos on this system

I use this system at home its a breeze to do and it can support a column of pictures from roof to floor as needed all suspended by one picture rail. So Imagine all your foody photo choices on these classy hanging wires add specials change photos and rearrange is easy.

Well I dont want to cloud you thoughts too much hope you have a few readly avaliable solutions you can choose at bunnings now. 🙂 good luck with your opening soon love to see you final design photos

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137080#Comment_137080

Thank you for the sketches there Eric! Very helpful!

There will be shelves installed on both sides of the window as, sorry I should have mentioned this earlier. The sliding door will bump into these shelves, as well as the shutters.

Could we possible slide the door upwards? Like a shutter possibly?

Cheers!

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/126837#Comment_126837

Hi @prvz27

Some of the other things that come to mind are roller blinds, vertical blinds and horizontal blinds. I recommend looking into RIVA blinds, they can custom make it just for that opening. As something that you'll be using quite often, it will be easier to slide open and close rather than lift it open. I suggest going to your local store and speaking to a helpful team member at the special orders desk to get a quote. Please make sure to bring your measurements before you go to the store. I love @Jewelleryrescue's suggestion, it's too bad that the shelves will be in the way.

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: How to measure your windows for inside-mounting blinds

If you need further assistance, please let me know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/139778#Comment_139778

, I dont think there is enough room to slide it upwards unless you think about a hindged flap that lifts up via a cord or some thing but it will look like a tropical hut window.

@EricL curtain ideas work too and are much simpler than my next idea I rate at a medium hard DIY depending on you carpentary experiances and tools

Alternte plan A Shelfing and a sliding door

Create a simple false wall on top of brick wall using timber and plywood 15 to 19mm thick depending on weight you want to place on shelves. The false wall has the same through wall cut out but is hollow underneath to allow @EricL sliding door design suggestion to slip behind false wall with shelves all over it. I would make the whole wall false possibly for a uniform wall. But you can just make a false wall on the sliding door side. Bunnings guys might have videos re some timber framing thing like this or i know they experianced to guide you if you choose this line of thought.

If you mount lengths of timber along wall (thick enough to mount sliding door underneath )suitably spaced ie top bottom above the opening and below window opening for starters for shelf support.. Where the sliding door runs under the wall no supports in there.

My crude attached drawings i hope shows general construction ideas Part or full false walls please note I didnt add all hidden timber design like more shelves details to try simplify drawing.Part or Full false wall to allow slide door to operate underneathOnce you have a flat False wall over the top of you sliding window Bunnnings provides cabinates flat packs and shelving of many types to place around the window now sliding door operation underneath paneling is out of the way if you dont want to custom build shelves.

One of my favorites is sets of

Flexi Storage Decorative Shelving White Matte Wall Cubes Set Of 3

I/N: 0332627