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Backyard reno with Matrix panels and paving

Hi Team,

I have spent most of my holidays planning the long overdue backyard reno. I have attached overall plan and two options.

I personally liked the option with three matrix panels, but my wife and kids liked the option with two matrix panels. I know I'm fighting a losing battle but keen to get your thoughts as well.

Also, over the coming days, I'm going to post a lot of newbie questions and will appreciate the advice and help making 'the plan' a reality. Aiming to have it all up and commissioned before our anniversary in Feb (not going to put the year!!!!). BACKYARD Option 1.jpg BACKYARD option 2.jpg

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Comments

backyardbandit

Hi,

I'm planning as per the below sketches. My questions are as below:

1. What is the different between F7 H4 post and general H4 post. Example link below. From a google search, it appears that F7 is required for structural application. Do I need F7 posts? Or general H4 post is sufficient for the application? Proposed posts will be used to mount verticle timber screening and matrix panels as shown below.

https://www.bunnings.com.au/100-x-100mm-3-0m-post-h4-treated-pine-radiata-cca_p8503250

https://www.bunnings.com.au/90-x-90mm-3-0m-post-f7-h4-treated-pine-cca_p0051779

2. What depth should I be installing these posts? The finished height will be around 2.2m from the ground.

3. I'm planning to order the roadbase and need a final compacted depth of 100mm. What is the rule of thumb here? i.e. What is the expected compaction ratio? Do I need to allow 120mm fill to achieve 100mm compaction of roadbase?

Thanks in advance.

BACKYARD Option 1.jpg

MitchellMc

Hi @backyardbandit,

It's great to see that you now have plans in the works. Given your two plans only differ with the additional Matrix panels, there's not really much in it choice-wise. Obviously the three-panel design is going to take up more space. Is this a concern? Did your wife and kids let you know why they prefer the two-panel design? Was it purely aesthetics? Perhaps you could let our helpful members know a little more about the rest of the yard and what you plan to do with it.

When you are building a structure like a pergola where the posts will bear the weight of the roof, you'd need to use structurally graded posts that are capable of supporting the weight. Given that there isn't such a requirement here, you could use non-graded timber. However, if you take a look at our H4 100 x 100mm posts, you'll see they are all structurally rated.

I'd suggest 300 x 300 x 450mm footers would be sufficient. So your post will be 450mm in the ground.

After compacting, you'll typically lose 20-30% of your roadbase's volume. So you're around the right ballpark with your estimate; perhaps bump it to 130mm.

Please let me know if you have further questions.

Mitchell

backyardbandit

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/24653#Comment_24653

Hi @MitchellMc

Today I received my treated pine sleepers and H4 post from Bunnings. I have a few questions so will appreciate your help.

1. I have to cut a few h4 treated pine sleepers to a suitable length. Do I need to treat the ends with some chemicals or paint?

2. I'm planning to paint sleepers with paint. Any advice on primer & paint (oil or water-based) requirements to ensure the paint adheres to sleepers? Is it ok to sand sleepers before paint?

3. For the retaining wall - Can you please point me in the right direction with screws/bolts to fix 200x75 sleepers to the same size post?

Thanks.

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/75218#Comment_75218

It's great to hear the project is moving forward @backyardbandit.

I'd recommend spraying your cut ends with TWA Woodcare 300g Ecoseal Tanalised Timber Treatment and ensuring that the cut ends aren't an area where decay could start. You can use an exterior water-based self-priming paint like Dulux Weathershield. No need to apply a separate primer before it on new timber. You can sand the sleepers before painting, but be sure to wear appropriate PPE like long-sleeved pants and a shirt, gloves, dust mask and safety glasses. Depending on the sleeper you've chosen, it might be an arsenic-based treatment, so it is always best to be on the safe side.

Landscape screws are the way to go when joining sleepers. Buildex 18 - 7 x 150mm Climacoat Star Drive Landscape Screws will suit, but don't overdrive them into the face of your sleepers, or their tips will penetrate the back side. Alternatively, you could use Zenith M8 x 130mm Tech-Shield Coach Screw as they are slightly shorter.

I can't wait to see your project progressing, and please let me know if you have further questions.

Mitchell

backyardbandit

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/24644#Comment_24644

Just sharing the current progress so far...getting the pavers delivered tomorrow so will get the paving done over the weekend.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/75700#Comment_75700

Hi @backyardbandit

Thank you very much for the update, it's certainly shaping up real fast. I'm very keen to see what it will look like once you have the Matrix panels up.

Looking forward to the next update.

Eric

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