How to build a window cover for privacy and protection from the elements?

I swear I didn't name my post that, does this thing have a mind of its own!? 🤣

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/24922#Comment_24922

Hi @BoeingFan welcome to Bunnings we know you want more stuff,

Consider green pine board above window screwed to wall studs.

Red hinges support 19 mm Ply board (heavy so wind dosnt flap it)

Standard awning pulley and rope or just I loop plus awning tie off handle

On top of ply put timber pine to match you windows shape as a false window, So if your shutter down it looks like your regular window once painted.

Make timbers match you window size 🙂

Crude drawing but I think you get the idea and extra detail can be added at need.

Add Trim to look like real window

EricL

I'll go with magic as it saves me from having to explain. @Jewelleryrescue's suggestion is spot on my only suggestion is to add a trim to the cover so that it does not look too plain. I've attached a sketch below with the traditional pivot stick instead of a rope.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/75105#Comment_75105

G'day @EricL

Magic would be easier, I agree, but I'm confident we can come up with something which will largely tick the boxes. The trim idea is great, lock that in. I think the pivot stick is the direction I need to go in. Is there a pivot stick which has a pin on the end and a separate latch (?) with a hole to lock it into? Are there extendable ones? I like the idea of being able to hinge the panel to the house at the top, and if I need to close the panel then the stick can be stored / secured to the inside of the panel.

So, what type of wood panel would you suggest, and, is a couple of coats of paint sufficient to protect it from the elements?

I'll revisit the side panels at a later date.

Thanks,

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/101268#Comment_101268

https://www.bunnings.com.au/suntuf-900-x-600-x-5mm-clear-acrylic-sheet_p1010490

I think we can do better than that and give your house a modern edge awning.

Condider a plastic outdoor wall art screen wont rot amd UV stable paint it simly to match your color scheme.

Do a good job first time so you wont need to revisit the design into the future ideally. should be strong enough not to require timber frame.

No need to cut it just use over window with overlap. If you use polycarbonate sheet under it as a clear layer under the art panel rain wont get in.

The stick you use put a

Matrix 1200 x 800mm Frangipani Screen Panel I/N: 0131468 $34.99 more patterns avaliable

frangipani-screen-panel

Acrylic sheet you will need 2 of these two fit the above panel

Suntuf 900 x 600 x 5mm Clear Acrylic Sheet I/N: 1010490 $79

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/101268#Comment_101268

Hello @BoeingFan

The most likely scenario is that one of the administrators saw your post and formulated a title based on your description. There are two general methods to mount the stick. The first is to build timber stops on both ends of the stick. The second is to use a standard butt hinge and screw the stick into it allowing you to permanently mount it to the panel.

I suggest using marine plywood as it is rated for exterior use. One other way to keep the stick in place is to use Delf Trade 30 x 30mm Satin Chrome Square Finger Edge Pull. I propose building timber stops at a higher point in the panel if you wish to lower the position of the window. This will save you from having multiple sticks of different lengths near the window.

The paint you are currently using now for the exterior of your house will work on this panel. If you happen to run out just get exactly the same type in the colour that you like.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/117558#Comment_117558

Hi I am not knocking @EricL creative thoughs just expanding them a little.

I am not keen on the stick approach One big puff of wind that stick is lifted out and the panel slams into the window and @BoeingFan has no easy access to washing machine for cleaning shorts.

Does bunning have those mechanical window winders? or some thing like that.. Or

DIY adjustable strut 12m aluminum inside 16mm tube 1mm wall capped and held by curtain rods, Holes drilled and nail screw pin locks it all a variable locations

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/127017#Comment_127017

We certainly do have window winders @Jewelleryrescue. Great thinking!

Mitchell

Good afternoon all,

OK so for now I'll build a standard window cover to give me some much needed shade; I have 2 pieces of chipboard in great condition which I'd like to use. They are both 1350L x 910W. One window is horizontal and 1300L, and one is 93L. I'm thinking that I could give the chipboard panels 2 coats of paint, would they be suitable for permanent outdoor fixing? Also, I was thinking if I use hinges, I can open or close them (with whatever method I end up with), if required, or I could use stays to fix them permanently. Does Bunnings have any stays that angle the panel on a 45o angle? I can only find ones that are at 90o, like I have linked below. I'm going to say that the panels weigh around 5kg each.

Austyle Hinge

Stay

Cheers,

Jason

IMG_9268 - Copy.JPG

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/24973#Comment_24973

Paint the hell out of those chip board sheets Jason especially the ends as water can soak in and your a done chicken dinner , zero gaps in paint, Honestly use painted ply instead save the chip board for indoors.

If you want buy the right angle brackets x2 with out the angled support and bend them to desired angle.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/75143#Comment_75143

@JewelleryrescueOK, I'll park the chipboard and get some of the plywood. Is this the sort that you recommend?: 1220 x 610 9mm plywood

I'm not keen on the idea of getting a bracket and bending it, it would be just my luck I couldn't bend it, it would break, or they wouldn't be equally angled. I think I'll use strong hinges instead, and I'm going to investigate that gas strut stays idea further because I think it's a great idea.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/75143#Comment_75143

Hi @Jewelleryrescue ,

With regards to the marine plywood, is there are a thickness you suggest? I was thinking =>9mm would work well? Also, I'm hoping the same Dulux Weather Shield paint as the rest of the house is suitable, is that sufficient?

Thanks,

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/101294#Comment_101294

https://www.bunnings.com.au/pinnacle-150mm-galvanised-strap-hinge-with-brass-pin-2-pack_p4230235

9 mm ply should a good thickness not to heavy and not to light flapping in the wind etc and it dosnt need to be marine ply as that is super expensive

Just regular ply the price will vary with the final finish quality of the ply so you decide on finish quality vs price. I would invest in 4L all in one under coat as ply will soak up many paints and need more coats So False economy. A single all in one under coat will seal the ply for many years and help smooth off any inperfections all of those brands pretty good. Thats where the air strut works as a bonus as it physically attached to window and shutter. In case of a freak willy willy. 4 litre is better economy as your middle of reno so it wont go to waste

Strength: To make the ply more ridged with out the thinkness on the outside screw a flat pine rectangle squre against to outer edges of the ply like a picture frame. Decoration: You can add some more 19mm x 19mm in the middle and make your window shutter look ribbed or traditional multi pane look and less plain as you wish.

42 x 19mm 2.4m DAR Pine Premium I/N: 8401458 $11.23

I do like Dulux 'sWeathershield guaranteed as a stand out . Formulated with MaxiFlex™ technology, it expands and contracts with the surface, and is guaranteed not to peel, flake or blister for as long as you live in your home*. I am not dismising other brands here I know they are fantastic too. My house is Tuabums and its 22 years internal and out old not a blemish, British paint less cost well you be waiting a long time for any to fail. I am swithching to dulux re performance GT.

Hinges those ones your proposed are internal hinges and will rust up in 2 years

Try Or equivalent. or longer 300mm

Pinnacle 150mm Galvanised Strap Hinge With Brass Pin - 2 Pack I/N: 4230235 $10.50

Something no one mentioned is if the shutter is closed it will rattle and bang if not latched. So I would ultimatly use some foam under the closed shutter (no need to buy now later at need ) This stuff is made for outdoors and quite cheap and versaitle

Bastion 75mm x 10mm x 25m Adhesive Back Expansion Joint Foam I/N: 0291591 $31.74

https://www.bunnings.com.au/bastion-75mm-x-10mm-x-25m-adhesive-back-expansion-joint-foam_p0291591

Latch so many latches. most look ugly some are lock able, some can have a padlock (incase those mossies get smarter and bigger.)

But old school simple cheap and they work only zinc plated but ok re rust. These ones sit inside and are mostly hidden.

Taskmaster 47mm Zinc Plated Box Roller Catch - 2 Pack I/N: 0290505 $2.90

https://www.bunnings.com.au/taskmaster-47mm-zinc-plated-box-roller-catch-2-pack_p0290505

Later you may need an external handle to help open your shutter but think about that later as you need it. Too many handle choices. Can you handle it? lol

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/39785#Comment_39785

Hi All,

I'm still procrastinating on the window coverings, but after last nights wind, I think it's best to look into them seriously. So, what I have come up with is this, I hope I can make it simple enough.

Imagine a rectangle in a portrait rotation.
The top horizontal bar is flush between the ends of the two vertical side bars.
The top horizontal bar has 2-3 hinges allowing the window frame to open from the bottom outward.
The bottom horizontal bar is, say, 3 inches from the bottom of the vertical side bars.
There are is a hole drilled horizontally in the bottom of each side bar halfway between the end of the side bar and to where the bottom horizontal bar is.
Two slide bolts are attached to the bottom of the structure window frame, not the window cover, and each slide bolt can engage through each side bar to securely retain the cover against the structure.
There are another 2 side rail sections screwed to the structure wall, with at least one horizontal hole in each.
Wooden rails/struts are bolted using non-threaded bolts and split pins to the window cover frame just above the lower horizontal bar.
Non threaded bolts and split pins then secure the strut to the structure side bars.

I will try to draw an image by hand but this seems to work in my head, no doubt there's something I've not thought of? I'd appreciate your input, please.

Thanks,

Jason

JacobZ

Hi @BoeingFan,

Having joined the conversation late in the piece, I reviewed everything up to this point and can't see any obvious holes in your plan.

Once you've uploaded an image of your plan, it might be easier to see anything that you might have missed.

Let me know if there is anything else I can assist with in the meantime.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/82083#Comment_82083

Screenshot 2024-07-23 144410.png

G'day @JacobZ

Forgive the hand drawn image, I don't have any fancy software 😀 Basically it is a rectangle frame, with the lower bar about 3 inches up from the end of the side bars. This is to facilitate holes for sliding bolts. The issues here is that I don't know if the slide bolts will be too flush with the house and the hole required in the side bars will be nearly right to the edge. I could always put spacing blocks behind the bolts but it's not as neat.

There are two screws in both side bars to secure the lower horizontal bar. Just above those two screws is another hole which will be used to secure a timber strut running back to the house. Having something strong but removable here is required, be it a nut and bolt, or preferably something I can do up and undo without any tools would be ideal.

I'm thinking that H4 DAR beams will do the trick nicely, and the marine ply will fit squarely over the top left to top right, and down as far as the bottom rung.

Then I will caulk and paint it. This is a window cover for shade and also closable for storms.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/117572#Comment_117572

I hope you're well buddy!

I'm finally going to start this project this weekend after all that wind last week, and with August just around the corner.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/128782#Comment_128782

Don't forget to update your window cover project. I'm looking forward to seeing the progress photos of your window cover!

Eric

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134319#Comment_134319

G'day @EricL ,

I checked out Jason's how to choose the right timber page, and decided that H4 might be the best option to choose given this is an external covering, potentially exposed to significant rain events. I am going to paint it, this is true, but I found it difficult to find any appropriately sized DAR H4 at Bunnings. They seem to be all square or round posts etc.. This H3 Outdoor Framing Timber is the size I'd like; do you offer it in H4? If not, can H3 be painted, is it DAR, and is it an appropriate level of treatment for this use?

Thanks 🙂

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/137872#Comment_137872

Hi @BoeingFan,

You typically only find H4 treatment applied to items that go in the ground, like sleepers and posts.

For above-ground use, H3 treatment is an appropriate level. The H3 framing timber can be painted, but you should allow it to weather for several weeks before doing so. An alternative, which you can paint straight away, is the 66 x 30mm 5.4m F7 H3 Treated Pine Primed LOSP.

Mitchell