How to add James Hardie Axon cladding in front of existing timber fence?

Hi!

I’d like to get some advice on this project I’ve been planning in my backyard below.

I'm looking to install James hardie cladding sheets in front of the existing timber fence, left and right side of the above image. I don’t want to mount the cladding on to the existing fence as it won’t take the weight, I will need to build a new structure in front using metal posts with baseplates dynabolted to the concrete and timber battens running top, middle and bottom to fix the cladding onto. I’ve attached an image I’ve found on Facebook and also the posts I found to use.

Questions.

Will the metal post dynabolted to the ground and timber battens running across be able to hold up the weight of these boards 26kgs each?

13m distance, 2.4m high.

How do I level the baseplates as the concrete slopes toward the drain?

Has anyone completed a job like this and have photos? Or if anyone has advice on best practice for this project.

Thankyou!
Griffin

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Comments

KatieC

Hi @GS,

First, let me welcome you to the Bunnings Workshop community! It is awesome you have joined and jumped straight in with your great fencing and leveling questions.

Our resident DIY expert @EricL will be online later this afternoon to assist you but let me tag our excellent Workshop members @homeinmelbourne and @Dave-1 to see if they are able to lend some advice. In the meantime, check out @diy_hausdesigns's How to install weatherboard fencing, a similar project where he used James Hardie weatherboard to create his fence.

Your space is going look amazing with your new fence, please keep us updated with progress photos.

Katie

Dave-1

Hello @GS

Nice idea, How frequently will your posts be spaced? The James Hardie info may suggest max spaced spans? Other then that I'd err on shorter spans so it wont sag. With the timber battens Id make sure they are H3 at least (for external use and especially around a pool) I was just thinking that if you wanted a larger span then maybe instead of top, middle and bottom support rails, go for four rails? It will add strength to the structure for a smaller cost?

With the keeping the post verticle to attach the rails to, maybe use some kind of spacer on the lower side of the square plate you are bolting down. Anything from Stainless washers or maybe even spacing pieces for window frames? The cladding will clover the feet so you shouldnt be able to see them. That just reminded me of my screen I built next to my deck, I allowed for a 1cm gap at the bottom to allow water and leave sto go under and not collect. Probarly should have allowed for 2cm. Are you intending to do the same?

Dave

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/26462#Comment_26462

Hi @Dave-1 ,

Thanks for your advice! Do you have any photos of the screen you built?

Im looking at 1500mm spacing in between posts and was going to run 70x45 H3 timbers the whole length 6m and yes might be better if I add 4 lines of timber for extra support.

Ive seen videos of people using washers as spacers between the base plate and concrete, but will that leave a gap between the floor and base plate of a couple mm, I guess I could fill i with a self levelling mix.

And yes I will be leaving a gap for drainage.

Regards,

Griffin

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/75897#Comment_75897

@GS

This is the gap I allowed for under the privacy screen. I thought it was high enough to allow for gum leaves ect to be able to be swept and blow away underneath it. Probarly could have double that height for it to work properly

example of spacing 2013.jpg

The Full height of the screen, I wanted to ballance the gap at the bottom with the movement gaps of the slats so thats why I went smalller. If I did it again I would double that bottom gap for ease of looking after.

example of spacing 2013b.jpg

I put this up in 2013 and it still is going strong and just as solid. Think the slats are Jarah and the posts are recyled hardwood.

Hope this helps.

Dave

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/75897#Comment_75897

Hello @GS (Griffin)

It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Dave-1. Just to add to the suggestions made, I recommend using Lanko 5kg 702 Durabed Structural Grout. It is much better for load bearing applications rather than a self-levelling mix.

Let's do some quick math regarding fence rails, for example, if the timber fencing posts are 1800mm apart you can in theory put in 18 fence panels between them. If each fence panel is 1.5kg and we multiply it by 18, that would give you a total of 27kg. This is on the condition that you are using 90x45 rails. If you use smaller rails, it means that you'll need to use more of them to support the weight.

Here is an excellent featured post: Feature fences by @ProjectPete

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Jason

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/101788#Comment_101788

Apologies @GS, I see Eric missed his link above.

Here's a link to ProjectPete's fantastic Feature fences.

Please let us know if we can assist further.

Jason

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