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How to finish Oregon desktop?

I've just made a basic desktop out of oregon - I had a couple of old oregon beams left over from some renovation work, so I've split, joined and sanded it to one piece. See pictures for how it's come out.

My question now is how to finish it. I was recommended tung oil, but oregon is already slightly orange, and tung oil makes the final colour far too orange to me.

My aim is to keep the wood as 'natural' as I can - ie close to the current light-coloured bare wood finish as I can, in terms of colour and surface. I had thought of a clear varnish, which would keep the colour - but the surface would feel quite artificial.

I know this will be a trade off between look, feel, and practicality. But would appreciate any suggestions or experience of finishing oregon like this? Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

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Akanksha

Hello @arumnixon,

A warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community! We're delighted to have you join us. We look forward to seeing and assisting you with your home improvement and garden projects.

Firstly, congratulations on building that Oregon desktop. It's come out beautifully. I'm sure our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. expert @EricL will be able to provide some suggestions on how to finish the table when he's back online later today.

Great to see you've had a look at @LePallet's Recycled Oregon dining table and have asked him questions. Let me also tag some of our other members @Nham, @Beachbox and @dinaandjake for their thoughts.

Do keep us updated with how this project goes. We look forward to seeing the finished desktop.

Akanksha

Dave-1

Good Morning @arumnixon

Thats some a beautiful piece of oregon! And a nice way to reuse it 🙂

I have used cabots 1l clear danish oil before on maple and pine and it didnt particulary change its colour.

I have used decking oil on my reclaimed dining table and it has really held up over the years (I applied three coast when I built it and have not recoated it since) It did darken the surface but I was ok with that. I am not a fan of varnish, probarly because I see lots of old varnish that needs restoring. Oiled timber just seems to last and then re-oiled.

Could you try oiling an offcut or underneath just to see?

Dave

EricL

Hello @arumnixon

Thanks for sharing your question about what finish to put on your Oregon desktop. Timber being a natural product behaves in a certain way when its surface gets wet. Often times it goes just slightly darker as moisture enters the pores of the timber surface. For a clear tough finish, I suggest using Cabot's 1L Satin Clear Benchtop Timber Finish. Please note that this comes in a gloss finish as well.

Before you commit the entire benchtop, I recommend testing a small corner underneath the desktop so that you'll have a good idea what it will look like. If you are satisfied with the finish, you can then commit the entire benchtop.

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: How to restore wooden furniture. (the techniques used are applicable to your project)

Please make sure to wear personal protection such as gloves, goggles and a paint mask when working on your project.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

arumnixon

Thanks @Dave-1, I think we're on the same page about varnish vs oil. Even though it's very practical, I don't love the feel of the surface.

I can definitely try a bit, I have offcuts saved for exactly that. The only tricky thing is needing to buy a whole tin (most times) to try, so I want to be reasonably sure before I do.

Danish oil might be worth a try. Any reason you used decking oil specifically for the reclaimed wood, out of interest? Instead of danish oil?

EricL

Hi @arumnixon

If you are after a quick test, I suggest bringing your timber offcuts and asking the paint specialist if it's possible to test a few of the finishes on your Oregon timber. While you're there, I also recommend having a look at the sample board finishes in the paint department.

Danish oil provides a beautiful finish but is only meant for indoor use. Decking oil on the other hand has UV resistant properties mixed in and protects the timber from exposure.

If you need further assistance, please let me know.

Eric

Dave-1

Morning @arumnixon

lol to the question as I am sure it will make you smile. As you said buying a whole can can be pricey. I had insatlled a deck recently and still had a load of decking oil. It came down to $$$ that I could afford and not wanting to waste a product at the same time. Mostly $$$ was the reason. The danish oil I used on interior timber for the bookcases I renovated. I went with that as I didnt want to darken the timber I had used for the facing strips.

@EricL I hadnt thought of asking the paint team about the chance of testing the look. I like the idea (And yeah I have stood there looking at the painted/oiled samples of timber as it really helps choosing which I should go for)

Dave

arumnixon

Thanks @Dave-1 , that's an excellent reason.

And thanks @EricL , I didn't realise bunnings either had samples of finished timber, or could maybe help test the finish on a piece if I took one in. That would be really helpful, so I'll pop in this weekend.

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