How to turn a solid timber dining table into a kitchen island?

Hello all,

I recently had the good fortune where a couple of friends found a dark brown solid timber dining table for me on a marketplace for $50. I was on the lookout for a good strong table to serve as both a dining table, and a kitchen island. I've sanded the table back, and given it 3 coats of white paint, and it looks fantastic.

Currently, the clearance underneath the table is 630mm as there are 2 chunky supporting beams running the length of the table. I need to raise the table by >220mm to increase the clearance of to >850mm, to park our Bellini dishwasher and 850mm high LG washing machine underneath. This would mean a totale table height of >970mm. A few extra mm's for good measure would be fine.

Here is an image to help visualise what I mean:

Table to Island.jpg IMG_3402 - Copy.JPG

I'd appreciate your guidance for how to go about this, please. I don't know if adding a solid piece the entire width at the floor level or simply an extension piece on each leg would matter; I went with the entire width idea thinking it may maintain strength.

Thanks,
Jason

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Dave-1

Afternoon @BoeingFan

Thinking about your idea, 220mm is a fair height to add to a leg. Would it be easy to make new legs up and then replace the old legs.

I had a thought of mounting some wheels to the base that way your table/bench could be moved if wanted.

I had a search to see what size castors come in, wheels castors will show you a bunch of different sizzes and I did see a 200mm one tho it would look huge.

Appart from that you could use two of these per leg to extend them. carinya-140 x 75 x 50 x 3.5mm zinc plated angle bracket single

Dave

BoeingFan

Hi @Dave-1 ,

I've added a photo of the table end to my original post now as well. Yep, 220mm is substantial, there's no doubt about that, but I hope there's a way we can do it. I guess at the end of the day, a piece of solid timber which is h220 x w1000 x d120, and use brackets to screw them onto the existing legs. For some reason I had visions of drilling in from the bottom and using mighty long screws, but your idea is far more practical, as long as the sideways (table lengthways movement) strength of the brackets is sufficient. I do like this idea, because friction of the leg on the floor plus bracing equal more strength in my mind, compared to wheels which are just waiting to skate out from underneath you, but I guess they do have brakes. As you rightly point out the wheels would be huge though. I think a solid piece of timber say 225x1000x60 would be easiest?

Cheers,
Jason

Dave-1

@BoeingFan

Ido think it would be easiest, and the best way to have it look nice 🙂

Dave

MitchellMc

Hi @BoeingFan,

I'm sure you've already realised this, but you won't be able to use those chairs at that height and likely will need to pick up some barstools. 970mm would be far too high for standard chairs.

I don't think you'll readily find solid timber that is 225 x 60 x 1000mm. You might need to construct it as a box section from plywood or MDF.

Mitchell

BoeingFan

G'day @MitchellMc and @Dave-1 ,

I wonder if a couple of old sleepers might do the trick on their side? What about these FITTA 200 x 51mm 2.4m Charcoal Composite Sleeper - Charcoal. Could I buy 4 of these, cut them off in 1000mm lengths, bolt (?) 3 of them together giving me 200x150x1000 pieces, and lay another length across the top making it 250x150x1000. These could also be an economical option: 200 x 50mm 3m Treated Pine Sleeper H4. I could buy 3 of these and do the same thing give that they are 3000mm long. Bolting them together wouldn't be terribly graceful, and I'm sure my ankle would be like a magnet to them, but if I countersunk the nut and bolt head it may work?

I'll take over-engineered over flimsy any day. What do you think?

Jason

MitchellMc

That could work @BoeingFan. However, those Fitta sleepers are a composite material with structural steel reinforcement, so you might struggle cutting them up. You'll need a ferrous metal circular saw blade.

The treated Pine sleepers have an arsenic treatment, so I wouldn't advise using them indoors for this purpose. MicroPro sleepers would be an option as they do not use arsenic in their treatment, though they are still really an outdoors timber.

Mitchell

BoeingFan

Beauty @MitchellMc , thank you for that info. They don't have them in stock in my Grafton store at the moment, but when they do, I think they would do the trick nicely. With a good sand and paint they'll be just the ticket.

How would you suggest bolting them together, and then attaching them to the table legs? Is there a way I could bolt them with something flush both ends?

Cheers,

Jason

MitchellMc

As you mentioned, countersinking the bolt and head would be your best bet, @BoeingFan. You can then fill over them with timber putty.

Mitchell

BoeingFan

Hi @MitchellMc & @Dave-1 ,

I had a chat with a mate who owns a portable sawmill last week, and he's going to let me know when he has a log big enough that he can cut me 2 pieces of timber to the size I need. This will be the most simple solution, so then I'll sand and paint them, and grab all the hardware to fix them to the table.

Thanks to you both,

Jason

Dave-1

Morning @BoeingFan

Now thats handy 🙂 Envious that you have a mate with a portable sawmill 🙂 Serioulsy nice!

Would love to see a pic or two of the raised table/bench when you finish it?

Dave

BoeingFan

Howd @Dave-1

It is handy mate, and I'll be sure to oblige with pics when she's finished.

Cheers,

Jason

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