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How do I fix beading under plasterboard eaves?

I had some roof work done but the eaves around the house were left rough. I need to tackle painting myself. This photo is typical of the eaves all around.

I plan to put up some square primed moulding in the corners first (specifically this) then undercoat the eaves and then paint with white exterior paint. I also have some wooden framing that needs to be painted

IMG_20231217_144244 - Copy.jpg

My questions:

Is the moulding right for the job? The shape matches the upstairs eaves
Is it ok to fit directly using a brad nailer (like this) - i.e., no pre-drilling required?
What is the best nail gauge for the job?
What is the recommended kind of paint for the eaves undercoat and top coat and what would be recommended for other wood framing (all white)
Is beading a realistic DIY job or should I call in a pro!

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Comments

Jason

Hi @stdoubt,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community.

The answer to a question like "is this a realistic D.I.Y. project?" is always a resounding "yes!" around here. We have loads of helpful members sharing inspiration and advice on the site every day, so we're sure you will get the support you need to build your confidence and get a successful result.

Our resident Bunnings D.I.Y. expert @EricL will be happy to tackle your questions as soon as possible. Let me also tag some other helpful members to see if they can share their thoughts in the meantime: @Jewelleryrescue, @TedBear, @MikeTNZ and @DIY4Knuckleheds.

Looking forward to seeing your project come to fruition.

Jason

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @stdoubt

Timber beading is one standard thought of essentially covering the gap between the eve liner and the wall mostly used to hide un even finishes.

How ever It looks to me the gap isnt to big for the most part, Another option is to mask the brick wall and use an outdoor version of no more gaps and fill the gap flush to the wall its really about the flat look or the beaded look look you want and the easiest method you prefer want to undertake this job. But if other parts of you house is beaded you will want the same finish,

Given if you add beading you will still need to no more gap possible the beading itself to the roof.

I never bought a nailer so I cant advise a good guage nail for this task, but it will make it easier.

Dave-1

Afternoon @stdoubt

I like your way of thinking, Id possible undercoat the DAR first before installing it just to give it a little more protection.

Now for your questions-

- If its the same shape id stay with it. Things look odd when they are mis-matching

- Pine DAR should be fine for use with that nailgun.

-Nail gauge mmmm not sure but DAR + eve thickness + say 20mm at least = what length Id be using. Eves are around the 5mm mark thick I think.

- Not sure what type of paint but stopping off at the paint section of bunnings will help in matching what you already have for sure.

- Yes definently a doable job, just make sure you think twice up on ladders (listen to that little guy that says "lets move the ladder instead of stretch that half a foot" 🙂 )

You can alway buy a length of DAR and see how it looks when you do it yourself before jumping all in. Just think of that guy who steps outside in his pjs to get the pape rand stands back and looks at the new roof... 🙂 Yep, Its a beautiful feeling!

Dave

EricL

Hello @stdoubt

My apologies for the late reply. It's great that you've received excellent advice from @Dave-1 and @Jewelleryrescue. Allow me to add a few more suggestions to the recommendations made.

Aside from getting the same shape of moulding, I also propose getting H3 treated moulding if possible. It will last much longer out in the open.
I recommend a combination of Selleys Liquid Nails and the brad nailer to hold the bead in place.
Dave-1's suggestion is spot on which is bead + eve thickness +20mm. I propose doing a test fire of the brad nailer so that you can adjust the firing depth.
In regards to paint, I suggest making sure that it is rated for exterior use. The popular brands are Dulux Weathersheild, Taubmans Sunproof and British Paints 4 Seasons.
If you plan ahead, you should be able to do this as a D.I.Y. project.

Since you'll be working at height, I suggest reading this guide - How to use ladders safely by @Adam_W.

Please make sure to wear personal protection such as gloves and goggles when working on your project.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

DIY4Knuckleheds

Mate, to cover that gap between the brickwork and the eave, nail on some 18mm x 18mm H3 Beading. Here's the link to the stuff https://www.bunnings.com.au/18-x-18mm-5-4m-h3-treated-pine-fj-dar-primed-losp_p0052832

In regard to nail gauge, use 16 Gauge as you will get a better hold than an 18 gauge nail and yes you can do this yourself 👍👍.

Good luck 👍😁🎄

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