Child Item

How to replace cracked floor tiles? Does the adhesive need to be FULLY removed?

Hi all, I’m replacing a few cracked tiles and noticed in some that the tile comes away easily ( no back adhesive) but the adhesive on the floor ( concrete ) is well and truly adhered. As I chip away at the adhesive, or use a blade on a multi tool, it really is part of the floor. My question is… If there is enough space for new tile adhesive across the full tile, do I need to try to chisel the old adhesive off. I was going to remove all loose adhesive, scrape what I can off, I’ve then cut in some cross marks for more adhesion, then paint with primer and simply re- glue a tile over the top?
id welcome any experienced thoughts? It is well and truly bonded to the concrete, so will a primed surface and tile glue be sufficient- ensuring there is full coverage of new glue?

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Repairing

Tiling

Flooring

Accepted answers

All comments

Jewelleryrescue

@Torquay

The problem with leaving old glue is you may end up with an uneven level once you reglue is the risk there.

I use a stripping disk on an angle grinder it will remove glue in seconds and concrete and pretty much any thing in its path,

Flexovit 100mm Multi Purpose Flexi Strip Stripping Disc

https://www.bunnings.com.au/flexovit-100mm-multi-purpose-flexi-strip-stripping-disc_p6310279

I/N: 6310279

$20.74

That tile area is small so buy a small striping disk to better get into edges and corners, (still have to manually remove some glue with some sort of chisel)

Another good tool to use is a rotating hammer drill but turn rotation off and use it as a chisel tool with a chisel bit. It will get into corners more easy. The ozito brand comes with a chisel bits to get you sorted and a very usefull tool for some heavy work later on.

Ozito 1500W 5J Rotary Hammer Drill Kit RHD-1550

https://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-1500w-5j-rotary-hammer-drill-kit-rhd-1550_p0382377

I/N: 0382377

$99.98

Torquay

Thanks @Jewelleryrescue .I hadn’t considered a stripping disc. I might go old school with a masonry chisel and see what I can chip away. The drill you mention would be the perfect choice, but the project ( kitchen and bathroom Reno) is getting a bit $$$) so it will be more elbow grease I guess. Sincere thanks. https://www.bunnings.com.au/kango-100mm-masonry-chisel_p0472212?store=6388&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADtbEB8h84orTIyEMgisVMVGmwS4b&gclid=Cj0KCQiAzoeuBhDqARIsAMdH14HRQKRAffE87qrDYT7j0M5XkW9_hY1paelCDOkwenF325VE59827CYaAtjPEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Jewelleryrescue

Your welcome @Torquay

I totally get budget issues and I am all for saving money. So if you have a cold metal chisel or a brickies chisel or an old wood chisel or even a square edged bit of metal or a large flat bladed driver.

Another trick to save money is to use a quarter brick or with a square edge to grind that mess down. As your cross hatched it all it should be easier to do working with your ideas too. 🙂

Torquay

Great idea re spare steel. I have some spare 3mm x 100mm I might try before picking up the chisel. Im using a narrow cold chisel and multi tool at the moment. The multi tool and scraper is doing very little and the cold chisel is making a lot of mess for little progress…

ironic how the glue made a great bond to the cement but not the tile. Perhaps evidence the tiler didn’t lay up the adhesive also onto the tile?

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @Torquay

I suspect the glue is fresher when place on concrete and if it is left to stand to long it will begin to dry out or surface skin before the tile makes the same contact as the cement.

Buttering the tile may help I also like spritzing some tiles as the glue is water soluable and a little water seams to help.

You cross hatched the glue with an angle grinder? why dont you use that on a chisile like angle and try save some elbow grease?

Torquay

Thanks @Jewelleryrescue , I think the angle grinder would have caused too much dust. I used the multi tool to create the cross hatch, however I went all in and used a wood chisel and ended up removing all the hard adhesive. What a shocking and time consuming job… it’s no wonder tilers didn’t respond to the offer of a paid job replacing them, ha,ha.

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @Torquay

Great work on getting that glue up and saving money too 🙂

Tilers hate small jobs lol as there are multiple steps for small pay outs, Room for you to become a part time small tiler lol get work from tile outlets,

EricL

Hello @Torquay

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about removing tile adhesive.

It's great that you've received good advice from @Jewelleryrescue. It's fantastic to hear that you've managed to remove the adhesive from the floor. My best advice is to use a vacuum cleaner to remove all the dust and debris in the space before you apply new adhesive for the repair tile.

I recommend using Davco 5kg Ceramacrete Cement Base Tile Adhesive and Dunlop 800g Ready-To-Go Coloured Grout. Please make sure that the tile adhesive has fully cured before you apply the grout. Applying the grout too early will cause moisture to be trapped under tile and will make it pop off.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Torquay

Thank you @EricL , I’m all sorted with my supplies from Bunnings Torquay, and Waurn Ponds.. I’m off this morning to hire the tile cutter (Bunnings) and yes I’ve made the mistake of trying to grout to early in the past so will be patient this time. Thanks for your advice and the helpful Bunnings videos!

EricL

Hi @Torquay

Please don't forget to post an update once your repairs are complete. I'm sure our members will be keen to see the outcome.

Eric

Child Item