How to replace garage door weather strip and paint door?

Kvic

I have been fixing up the Garage Door as it had stopped working and had to replace the cable pullies and cables, bent brackets and retention the springs.

The weather strip on the bottom of the door is dirty and hard but most of the products I find for a weather strip are different to mine.

It is held on by screws and not the slide in type.

Where or what can I get for something to replace this weather strip.

I also wanted to pressure clean the door and surrounding area to paint the door and need the best paint for the job for this metal door and weather I should sand it back and apply a undercoat and the a finish coat.

but on further inspection I found some tiles loose above the roller door that came off in my hand and I also need advise on tiling slate panels on a vertical wall.

MitchellMc

Hi @Kvic,

Many weatherstrips are proprietary designs created by the manufacturer for their doors. Are you able to find the manufacturer branding on the door? If so, that would give our members some ideas of where you might procure the seal. If the door happens to be a B&D then I can check with them to see if a replacement seal is available.

You need to check whether the existing paint is compromised and powdery. Run your fingers along the paint. If a blue dust coating is left on them, you need to prep the surface. Preparing the surfaces requires you to give it a scrub down with soapy water. Then, take a Scotch-Brite 155 x 100mm Heavy Duty Scourer Pad and go over the entire surface. Flush with clean water and wait for it to dry. Once it's dry, try the fingers test again. Continue this process until no paint residue is left on your fingers. Do one final wash with sugar soap before flushing with clean water and waiting for it to dry. You'll then be free to use the White Knight Rust Guard Grey Quick Dry True Bite Primer Paint and then your topcoat.

If no paint is left on your fingers initially, I'd just suggest you give the door a good scrub down with sugar soap and then flush the residue off with clean water and wait for it to dry. You can then apply your primer and topcoat.

You'll need to glue the tiles back in place, and I recommend removing the existing glue with a masonry chisel and hammer before doing so. When re-applying glue, ensure you coat the whole surface instead of just sections, as was done previously. I recommend verifying that all surrounding tiles are still fixed in place adequately, as a falling tile could cause significant injury. Here's a helpful guide: How to tile a wall.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell