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How to fix a gate post twisting and causing gate to not be square and flush?

This issue here with my gate has been getting worse and worse over a couple of years and I think if I dont fix it the the lock bolt wont even reach the latch eventually

You can see up the top how large the gap is vs the bottom of the gate

I had a look and the fence post where the hinges are screwed onto is twisting counter clockwise from the top. ( had to tell from photos but its definingly twisted)

The bottom of the fence post is concreted in and is concreted around to so its pretty square but the top is warped

Its going to be a hard job replacing the fence post. Does anyone have any ideas on other ways to fix this without replacing the post?

I could try moving the top hinge over a bit and screw new holes through he hinge on the left. But it still might twist more over time

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Comments

MitchellMc

Hi @PatDIY_Dad,

Moving the top hinge further over would be the simple solution. How long that lasts really depends on how active this twist is. It could be a good short-term solution and would certainly beat having to dig out the concrete footer and install a new post. I suspect that the screws on the right of the hinge plate are going to land right on the edge of the post, so you might like to install a block of timber onto the post first to capture them. Adding additional holes would be an option, too, as you've mentioned.

Let me mention @Dave-1 and @Nailbag to see if they have any other suggestions.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Dave-1

Afternoon @PatDIY_Dad

Why are gates always pains is my question? 🙂 My gate is currently jamming due to the fenceling doing wht yours is (excpet mine is heaing towrads the gate not away from it)

Easiest way to do it as I hate shifting hinges and as @MitchellMc says if you move the hinges it will be right on the edge of the post and you will need to put in a timber piece to screw it to (down the length of the post type deal)

You could put a Facing piece of timber (think the thickness of 30mm) on the Freestanding post and trim it at an angle so the gate frame will look square..

Top of the post is 30mmm wider then the post, bottom of the post matches with the post and you screw the whole piece of timber to the existing post. Then put back on your latch and locking bolt. The "air gap" wont be noticible and the right hand side will be inline with the post.

Dave

PatDIY_Dad

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/35940#Comment_35940

Thanks mic might try that

The timber to add on won't be able to be very thick though as the gap difference to make up is only maybe 15-20mm

Might be tricky to screw into that

I could also plane the post to try make it plum again

Nailbag

Hi @PatDIY_Dad A simple solution in lieu of replacing the post with say a cypress one could be to add a small piece of treated pine timber (20mm x 90mm x 200mm) to close the gap as per the attached photo and relocate the bolt loop. I'm a huge fan of these self adjusting pad bolts. I use them on every gate these days as they compensate for timbers moving in various weather conditions.

Regards, Nailbag

Screenshot 2024-03-24 at 9.52.35 pm.png

PatDIY_Dad

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/35957#Comment_35957

Thanks yeh I had some 15-20 mm treated sleeper off cuts.lying around and screwed it into the post and relocated the bolt loop thing

Not as secure as sky could unscrew the added sleeper ( would need a drill) and take off the bolt loop from open the gate

But they could easily jump it if they really wanted to get in

I just need to borrow a.planer.to make the left post less twisted

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