How to remove rust from metal frame?

Hey DIYers!

For my daughter's new bedroom I have always envisioned a small Mezzanine/loft. Today I found this perfect metal frame at the Tip shop, which I was able to bring home for only $80! Score!!!

Anyways, the frame has some surface rust on it, which I guess I need to address.

Being a very novice DIYer, I hope someone can explain to me all the steps to fix up this rust and give the frame a refreshed look.

Thank you in advance!

Gwen

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Comments

MitchellMc

Hi @GwenH,

Could you please take some closer shots in better lighting so our helpful members can see the issue you're dealing with?

Typically, rust is dealt with by mechanically removing the bulk of it with sandpaper or a wire brush. Any remaining can be treated with a rust converter to halt its process. From there, you'd prime the steel and then paint.

Once we have a better idea of how advanced the rust is and what type of coating is on the steel, we'll be better able to advise on the correct process.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

GwenH

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/37955#Comment_37955

Sorry for the late response! Here are some photos. Most of it is pretty superficial I believe. I do have rust converter at home but it says Not Suitable for Galvanised surfaces.

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/81256#Comment_81256

Hi @GwenH

I'm just checking in regards to your steel frame, was it originally powder coated or is this how you found it in its original state? What brand of rust converter do you have?

Instead of using the rust converter, I suggest sanding the deep imbedded rust with an Ozito 200W Detail Sander. This particular unit has a set of sanding pads already included in the set.

Here is a link to our best advice: How do you treat rust on metal outdoor furniture?

Let me call on our experienced members @TedBear, @JoeAzza and @Dave-1 for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/81256#Comment_81256

Evening @GwenH

Thats a pretty nice find 🙂 and for $80 its a winner!

I though at first the frame had been galvanised but the surface rust has me second guessing. Id sand back the rust spots and see if asnd what type of metal comes up (sanding gal make sure you wear a mask) It really looks like surface rust so a light sand should show what it is. Once you know then you can paint those sections with a rust converter or galmet? (from memory) and then away you go 🙂

Id definently put some thick/solid rubber squares under those legs first up tho 🙂 I wouldnt want to crack your tiles.

Dave

GwenH

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/105332#Comment_105332

Hi @EricL and @Dave-1 ,

This is how I found the frame. No idea what it was originally used for, or what type of steel it is. There's an imprint in the steel that says 300MPT?

We continued our bargain hunt at the Tip Shop where we got a huge, new, timber beam for $10 and a wooden bed frame with big wooden slats for $15.

I also got four big 20mm MDF panels for free the other day. It's all going into making a mezzanine in my daughter's new bedroom. And the beams of the steel frame give her cool monkey bars.

Work in progress:

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/119801#Comment_119801

Morning @GwenH

🙂 Looks great! Also can feel your enthusiasim building it and doubly so as you are recyling things! 😀 Cant wait to see it finished.

I am afraid I dont know what 300MPT means in regard to the steel. Even Google says it dosnt know lol

Dave

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/119801#Comment_119801

Hi @GwenH,

I agree with Dave-1 that it looks great and it's brilliant to see you can make use of recycled materials.

Just to add to the discussion, I believe the rust converter you have at home is saying it is not useful when applied directly to galvanised coatings.

The area where the rust has started to poke through has lost its galvanised coating, so a rust converter can be used effectively in those areas.

Following the process @MitchellMc has mentioned above will still be the best way to manage the rust.

Purely guessing, but due to the location of the screw holes in the metal frame, I think that 300MPT probably identifies a connection point shown in the building plan for its original use.

Let me know if there's anything else I can assist with.

Jacob

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