No hot water coming out of shower but hot water coming out everywhere else

Hi everyone, getting kind of desperate for help. My hot water suddenly stopped working yesterday without warning, I've tried finding online resources for help regarding this but they're all thermostatic showers whereas my shower is manual.

My current line of thinking is that this is a problem with the shower cartridge (although I'm not sure if that exists in manual showers like this one). I want to remove the hot water "screw" but I'm having trouble with it.

Two questions:

1. How do I remove the black plastic attachment off the shower faucet? It's stopping me from disassembling it. There's also a nut which the plastic attaches to but it's too deep to go in with a monkey wrench or pliers.

2. Is there a cartridge I can remove with this type of shower, and if there is, will it fix the hot water problem?

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Repairing

Plumbing

Accepted answers

EricL

Hello @xdannygeee

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us and thanks of sharing your questions about your shower spindle.

It's fantastic that you've received excellent suggestions from @PlumbMaster-Zee. Just to add to the recommendations made, I suggest using Magnet Multi Fit Tap Spanner Set. It's been specifically designed to remove spindles and extensions in your wall. I also suggest having a look at this discussion - How to replace old spindle tap? by @tony89.

The black plastic that is attached to the front of your spindle is called a Kinetic 15mm PVC Spindle Bonnet Extender. It's often used when the spindle is too deep in the wall and there are no more threads to screw the cover flange on. Once you have the plastic removed you can use the same tool on the spindle.

Please note that they are slot type socket systems so you can use the long body of the set to clamp on the socket you are using. Please remember to turn your mains water system off and to depressurize your plumbing before you try to remove the spindle.

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: How to replace a tap washer (some of the steps used are applicable to your repair work)

However, if the spindle proves to be too difficult to remove, I suggest engaging the services of a registered plumber.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

All comments

PlumbMaster-Zee

Hi xdannygee

1. How do I remove the black plastic attachment off the shower faucet?

- Identify Screws or Clips: Look for any visible screws or clips holding the plastic attachment in place. These could be hidden under decorative caps, which can often be pried off with a flathead screwdriver.

- Use a Deep Socket Wrench: Since the nut is too deep for a monkey wrench or pliers, you might need a deep socket wrench that can reach it. This type of wrench is designed to access nuts in tight spaces.

- Loosening the Nut: Once you have the appropriate tool, carefully loosen the nut. Be gentle to avoid damaging the threads.

- Pry Off the Attachment: Once the nut is loose, gently pry off the black plastic attachment. If it's stubborn, you can use a small flathead screwdriver to help pry it off, being careful not to damage the surrounding parts.

2. Is there a cartridge I can remove with this type of shower, and if there is, will it fix the hot water problem?

- Spindle System: Since your shower uses an old spindle system, there is no cartridge. Instead, the issue might be with the spindle itself or the valve seats.

- Inspect the Spindle: After removing the handle and the black plastic attachment, check the spindle for wear, corrosion, or damage. Sometimes, the washer at the end of the spindle is worn out, which can prevent proper control of hot water.

- Valve Seat Inspection: Inspect the valve seat inside the valve body. If it's damaged or corroded, it can block hot water flow. You might need a valve seat wrench to remove and replace it, or a valve seat grinder tool to smooth out any imperfections.

If these steps don’t solve the problem, it might be best to consult a professional plumber for a more detailed diagnosis.

Hope this helps and good luck!

xdannygeee

Thank you so much for your insight Zee, given your info I might just go ahead and call a professional. Really appreciate the time you took with writing such a comprehensive message - have a great day. 🙂

EricL

Hello @xdannygeee

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us and thanks of sharing your questions about your shower spindle.

Here is a handy step-by-step guide: How to replace a tap washer (some of the steps used are applicable to your repair work)

However, if the spindle proves to be too difficult to remove, I suggest engaging the services of a registered plumber.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

EricL

Hello @PlumbMaster-Zee

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's marvellous to have you join us.

Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and experience with our members. We're keen to hear more about your projects and plans around the house and garden. Please feel free to reach out whenever you need assistance or would like to share a project with the community.

Again, thank you for sharing your experience with us.

Eric

xdannygeee

Thanks for the response @EricL 🙂

I just wanted to ask - will the tap spanner set also help to remove the spindle bonnet extender? Or do I need a different tool for that?

EricL

Hello @xdannygeee

You can use the same tool for the bonnet extender. Just test which sleeve will fit best before using the body extender to turn the sleeve.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

xdannygeee

Hi @EricL and @PlumbMaster-Zee

I managed to successfully remove the spindle, thanks to the suggestion of purchasing a tap spanner set at Bunnings. Upon inspection, it seems like the spindle and tap valve seems fine, but I'd like a second opinion if that's okay. If there's anything I should look out for, please let me know.

And here's a picture of the valve itself (apologies it looks gross).

Could I have someone review over this and give me their thoughts? Thanks in advance!

EricL

Hello @xdannygeee

Good work in getting the spindle out! But it appears that part of the jumper valve has been left inside the spindle body. I suggest using a Stanley 4 x 100mm Standard Tip Essentials Screwdriver or similar to lift the left-over rubber that is stuck inside the body of the spindle.

Once the rubber is out, can you please post another photo of the inside of the body so that we can see if the spindle seat has been damaged. If it has, I recommend engaging the services of a licensed plumber to re-seat your spindle to correct the damage.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

xdannygeee

Thanks @EricL, really appreciate your responses. I just put the spindle back in place and turned on the main, so I'll take a better photo tomorrow. If it turns out that the spindle seat is damaged, would it be possible to get the entire spindle replaced as opposed to hiring a plumber to re-seat the spindle? Or would it be heavily recommended to get the help of a plumber?

xdannygeee

Hi @EricL, good news! I managed to confirm that the pipes are working with no problem, I turned on the main while the spindle was out and hot water was flowing.

I understand what you meant by the rubber being stuck inside now, I took it out using long-nose pliers - here it is, side-by-side with the rest of the tap valve.

And I've taken another picture of the inside of the valve (not sure what the correct name for this is). It looks ok in my opinion but I don't have much experience, as I'm sure you've caught on already 🙂

If the inside is ok, is this just simply finding a replacement of the tap valve? If so, could you link me to the correct replacement? Thank you!

MitchellMc

Hi @xdannygeee,

That's quite an unusual tap valve, which I haven't seen before. I'd recommend you start by trying a standard tap valve to see if that functions correctly.

Mitchell

xdannygeee

Hi @MitchellMc, I took out the working tap valve from the cold shower for a comparison and you're right, this tap valve is very unusual. I've added in a comparison between the two, do you have any suggestions for an equivalent?

Here is a scale as well, the tap valve radius is around 20mm.

EricL

Hello @xdannygeee

Thanks for sharing those extra photos of your spindle body. Looking at the seat it appears to be in fair condition and there are no cracks or fissures on its surface.

The unusual large head on the jumper valve is often caused by compression. When the person using the shower thinks that the tap is not yet fully engaged, they tend to tighten it further than necessary thereby flattening the rubber washer.

I propose testing the EnduraSeal 12mm Copper Tap Valves, I use these valves in my own home, and they work very well.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

xdannygeee

Ah that makes sense, thanks @EricL! It looks like I just need to get a new tap valve then

I was wondering what size I should go for, given the following measurements. This is the still intact tap valve, it measures around 20mm.

And this is the broken tap valve, it measures around 16mm.

Given the sizing of the current tap valve, which size would you recommend for the replacement? Would a 13mm be too small (and potentially create leaks)? I'm thinking a 20mm valve would work well, but I probably need a second opinion to be sure.

Thank you for helping out with this. 🙂

EricL

Hi @xdannygeee

I suggest bringing the old jumper valves with you to the store and speaking to the plumbing expert and compare the valves to the ones available to make sure that you get the right size.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

xdannygeee

Thank you so much for all the advice @MitchellMc, @PlumbMaster-Zee, and in particular @EricL - changing my tap valves to these worked brilliantly! I managed to get my hot water working for only $10 and I learnt something new as well! 🙂

Just to document my steps in case anyone finds themselves in a similar situation:

1. Locate and turn off the water main.

2. Remove the spindle and extender using the spanner set. You may need to use a groove joint wrench to remove the extender if it is very stubborn, being sure to not grip onto the threads. I preferred it over a monkey wrench and found that it gives much more grip and torque.

3. Examine the spindle (and the valve opening) and check for damages - in particular the damage on mine was with the tap valve.

4. Replace the tap valve with a new, suitable one. You may have to consult a plumbing expert if unsure. FYI The diameter of the top of the tap valve does not directly correlate with the diameter as listed in descriptions (I suspect that a described 12mm tap valve describes the tap OPENING, NOT the diameter - but I may need to be corrected on this).

5. Put everything back together, making sure that the spindle is nice and tight to prevent any water leakage. If you hear a hissing noise after putting it back in place and turning on the water main, the spindle is not tight enough. Use the spanner set's metal rod!

Thank you, everyone, so much again for all of your effort in helping me!

Child Item