How to replace bottom plate of stud wall?

Hi. I have water damage in the walls of my toilet room. The leak has been addressed. But it has caused damage to the bottom plate and bottom of the studs. I need to replace the bottom plate and bottom half of the studs. The wall in question is a non load bearing wall. There is also a load bearing wall that was also damaged but i will hire a tradesman to fix that small section. I can not afford to pay a tradesman to do the whole thing which i why i need to tackle it myself. I have checked with local council and have discovered I can do the repairs myself without a permit.

house is a brick veneer build in the early 90's on the Gold Coast.

I need to know whats the best way to remove the bottom plate ?

I also note that the bottom plate does not seem to be bolted to the concrete slab below.

toilet room in questionThe wall that i would like to repair in question

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EricL

Hello @joshy1

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about repairing your stud wall.

On the condition that you've had your wall assessed by a registered builder and that they have confirmed that it is not a load bearing wall, I propose rebuilding the entire stud wall. But if it has not been inspected by a builder, I propose holding off on the demolition and having it properly assessed first.

Looking at the photos you've posted, it appears that the bottom part of the studs have been damaged by water as well. I don't recommend recycling any of the timber studs. If the bottom plate is glued down, I suggest using a Craftright 380mm Wrecking Bar to lift it off the floor.

Before you begin any demolition works, I highly recommend taking accurate measurements of the existing stud wall along with any channel cuts made into them. This will save you time and make it easier to recreate the stud wall.

Let me call on our experienced members @Nailbag and @Dave-1 for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

joshy1

"I propose rebuilding the entire stud wall"

thats not really on the cards. The wall on the other side is a bathroom wall. That would then cascade to the entire bathroom to be stripped out which is not in the budget.

Two walls in another room with the same damage were repaired by a registered builder and the effected studs were cut approx 600mm up from the bottom plate. the stud was then sistered with another stud going from the bottom plate up to about 1500mm. (not the full height of the wall)

I would like to recreate the same effect and wanted to know the best way to begin by removing the bottom plate.

good call on the wrecking bar. ill pic one up tomorrow

Nailbag

Hi @joshy1 I do agree with @EricL that if it's possible to get the load bearing wall done first as it may impact how you start on your sections of work. Plus you could take the opportunity for some free advice while the builder is there?

The bottom plates may have at least 1-2 concrete nails through them. But once the plates and studs are cut you can pry them up pretty easily with your new wrecking-bar. Though I would recommend going for a longer one for a few extra $ as the extra leverage will make the job easier. There is also a chance being short length walls you don't find any nails at all.

If you have a reciprocating saw, then these flush cut blades will cut the plates flush to the concrete. Otherwise a short sharp hand saw will work just as well. Keep the saw as horizontal throughout eh cut as possible to avoid hitting the concrete. Then go nice and slow just as your break through so not to damage the teeth.

Regards Nailbag

EricL

Hi @joshy1

That's excellent advice coming from @Nailbag. It's definitely worth getting a larger wrecking bar, my only recommendation is to make sure it has a sharp edge that will bite into the timber when you lever the bottom plate up. Plus, it's a fantastic idea to get the builder in to do the load bearing wall first and getting some free advice.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

Evening @joshy1

Now that is a decent sized job. I totally agree with @EricL suggestions about redoing the wall. One reason is if water has damaged the studs up halfway then there is a fair chance there is water/moisture in that plaster. It may be more expensive in one way but doing the overlapping and then having to come back to the plaster issues may be a false econommy.

How many walls do you have that sistering fix in? I "know" in my mind that its a way to repair and at the same time I dont 100% trust it. 😕

The pry bar and a saber saw would be your best friend in removing the base plate. Id definenty get the wall assesed by a builder for structual support . Id also support the top with agriprops while you are working in the area. Last bit I would suggest and I am not sure if its the wisest but id replace half the baseboard, do the sistering you suggest and then once done do the other half of the wall.

Dave

joshy1

"that if it's possible to get the load bearing wall done first as it may impact how you start on your sections of work"

that sounds like a good idea. Ill get someone to fix the small load bearing wall. and then try and tackle the other wall myself.

Im still confused tho. How do you remove the bottom plate? do you cut it into little pieces under one stud at a time and put a small block under each stud ?

whats the actual process to remove the bottom plate with the wall still standing ?

joshy1

"I totally agree with @EricL suggestions about redoing the wall"

I simply can not do that at all, Its the bathroom wall. It would break any water proofing and mean a full strip out of all walls, bathtub you name it. It will be so far out of my budget its simply not a possibility.

Dave-1

Morning @joshy1

The waterproofing has failed already, with the walls being removed the area will have to be redone to get the waterproofing certificate signed off. When you remove that bottom plate any residual waterproofing between the floor and the timber will go as well. Tho as the timber has rotted so its already gone.

I know all about trying to budget and spending what money you have several times over 😕 Bathrooms are a pain but worth doing it right to whatever level you can afford. Getting the walls sorted, the floor sorted, the whole area waterproofed so you arnt back in the same problem in 6 months plus being able use the bathroom even in a minimal way is a hard path.

Dave

MitchellMc

@Dave-1

This appears to be a toilet, and if the leak has been resolved, I can only assume the leak was not due to failed waterproofing in the next room.

Mitchell

MitchellMc

@joshy1,

Is it a tiled wall on the other side? If so it's going to be tricky to replace the timber sections without causing damage to the tiles. You'll essentially need to cut all the supporting timber for the wall with the expectation that the tiled will just hang there whilst you complete the repair.

Replacing the timber is a relatively simple process. You cut through the uprights and cut the bottom plate into sections. Pull the lower section of the studs off-centre to clear the top of them and lever out the pieces of the bottom plate. Re-install the bottom plate and then install your scissoring sections and join to the bottom plate and studs.

Given the issue of removing all support from the wall, you could potentially do this in sections. Instead of cutting all the studs, just do two at a time and have the new bottom plate in three sections. So start on the left, cut two studs and a section out of the bottom plate. Install this new smaller section of the bottom plate and then the two scissoring studs. Then, move to the next section.

Mitchell

joshy1

"The waterproofing has failed already, with the walls being removed the area will have to be redone"

The toilet is in its own room. the picture shown is the whole room. all walls have been removed in this room. its maybe 1.5m

joshy1

"You cut through the uprights and cut the bottom plate into sections"

so cut the studs where they butt up against the bottom plate ?

"Pull the lower section of the studs off-centre to clear the top of them and lever out the pieces of the bottom plate"

im having difficulty understanding this step ?

"Instead of cutting all the studs, just do two at a time and have the new bottom plate in three sections."

So i will have 3 or so different sections of the bottom plate. each with 2 bolts at each end of each section going down the the slab to keep it in place ?

ive will post some pics of a already repaired room to let you know what im trying to achieve

This is a room that has been repaired

EricL

Hi @joshy1

Thanks for sharing that photo of your repaired section. That is pretty much what needs to happen when you do your repairs.

I believe Mitchell's instructions were:

You cut through the uprights and cut the bottom plate into sections. If the uprights or studs have been damaged to a certain height, then that is where you'll need to cut it (just like the upright sections cut in your picture). The bottom plate can be cut into sections to make removal easier.
Pull the lower section of the studs off-centre to clear the top of them and lever out the pieces of the bottom plate. The lower part of the damaged uprights you've cut must be taken out of alignment with the pieces at the top. You can now use your demolition bar to lift the bottom plate, since the cut uprights are no longer lined up it will not hold back the bottom plate when you lift it out. Lifting it out without pulling the uprights out will prevent the bottom plate from coming up.

In regards to the last piece of instruction, yes, you will have 3 different sections of the bottom plate. Each section with 2 bolts at each end going down the the slab to keep it in place.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @joshy1 theses are the steps in order to produce the same result as the frame thats been repaired by the carpenter that may make more sense.

That aside, it's worth noting that I can assure you from past experience that the cost of materials to replace entire studs and bottom plates is negligible compared to gap filling and fixing support timbers. The time to build makeshift repairs is actually longer than to install news ones.

and either method is complicated as @MitchellMc with the wall with one side is still cladded. This would need to be removed to with either repair method.

Nailbag

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joshy1

@Nailbag, If you cut the studs like your drew in your picture then the wall is just floating in mid air. dont you need to support it up somehow ?

joshy1

"and either method is complicated as @MitchellMc with the wall with one side is still cladded. This would need to be removed to with either repair method."

yes but that would break the water proofing of the bathroom that would then need a full strip out and cost 20k that i dont have

Nailbag

Hi @joshy1

Correct, but I was only showing how you would make all the cuts needed to then copy the way your builder had don't in the repaired room as you mentioned wanted to repair the toilet wall. But, it's not how I would do it as I would replace the entire wall.

Nailbag

joshy1

"But, it's not how I would do it as I would replace the entire wall."

replacing the entire wall will break the waterproof membrane of the bathroom. The whole bathroom would need to be stripped and rebuilt from scratch. As it is a regulation in QLD for that to happen.

I do not have the luxury of spending $20,000+ to do that, and would rather spend a few hundred dollars worth of wood instead. I can always come back to modernizing the bathroom when the cost of living crisis im living under is over.

Nailbag

Apologies @joshy1 I didn't pick up that was a waterproofed wall. Thos waterproofing laws are the same nationally.

Sp just an idea then to seperate the frame from the back of the wall water-proofed wall, to use a multi-material blade in a multitool to separate those fixing points will be screws/nails and stud glue. This should allow you to ehe timber frame as required keeping the wall intact. Then use stud glue in-between when rebuilding the replacement sections. Its a tough job, but the only one I can think off.

Regards, Nailbag

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