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How to install Specrite Teak panel as a benchtop?

Hi all!

So I’m doing a super cheap and easy facelift to my kitchen. Will get ripped in a few years so I’m not too fussed in it being perfect, but still want it to look nice 🙂

I’ve decided to do new benchtops and to make it easier / not risk damaging cabinetry/ a couple other reasons, I am going to be putting the new benchtop straight on top of the old.

What’s there now I’m pretty sure is mdf, covered with a laminate top, then painted (probably original 60s kitchen). I’ve bought the Specrite teak panels 18mm and cut to size but would love some feedback and ideas to make sure I don’t royally screw up attaching them 😂

So, my questions are:

- would you oil or varnish the panels?

- should I oil/varnish the underside of the panel too? Most things I’ve read said yes, but given it will be glued down I’m not sure if needed?

- what glue would you use to stick onto old benchtop? Was thinking heavy duty liquid nails (note I’ll also put some screws in underneath)

- how would you finish the few butt joins of the different panel sections? I thought perhaps brown coloured silicone so water can’t get in?

- the cut edges of the panel are now a different colour than the top, would the best thing to do be just put a little teak stain on the edges prior to oil/varnish?

Sorry I know that’s a lot of questions but would love any help! Thank you in advance 🙌

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EricL

Hello @bettyrocker

Because you are placing the Specrite panel over an existing benchtop it must be fully protected from moisture contamination. I propose using Cabot's 1L Satin Clear Benchtop Timber Finish to seal the benchtop and any cuts that you'll be applying to it. I recommend sanding the entire benchtop to remove the protective coating that's been applied to it. Once the benchtop has been prepared properly then you can use the Cabot's sealer all over it.

In order to cover the front and sides of the benchtop, I recommend using 42 x 19mm 1.2m DAR Pine Standard as a benchtop trim. This will hide the front and side profiles of the benchtop and give the illusion of a single benchtop. In regards to the butt joins, a dark coloured silicone should suffice. But in order to secure the benchtop to the old one, I suggest using several screws spread out through its length to prevent lifting and movement. You can use a heavy-duty adhesive if you wish, but the screws will be the ones to hold it in place.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

Hi @bettyrocker

Anders top your questions below.

would you oil or varnish the panels? Use the Cabots Benchtop oil which is designed safe for food prep. Its what I use on my kitchen timber tops

should I oil/varnish the underside of the panel too? Most things I’ve read said yes, but given it will be glued down I’m not sure if needed? No

what glue would you use to stick onto old benchtop? Was thinking heavy duty liquid nails (note I’ll also put some screws in underneath). Liquid nails will be plenty enough as the weight of the benchtop will also prevent lifting.

how would you finish the few butt joins of the different panel sections? I thought perhaps brown coloured silicone so water can’t get in? There are lost of flexible sealants available in various colours. This is just one. Just find the closest one and apply it before you stain the top.

the cut edges of the panel are now a different colour than the top, would the best thing to do be just put a little teak stain on the edges prior to oil/varnish?

Remember this is a temp project so personally I wouldn't be to concerned about fine details that just add more cost. It might bug you now, but give it a few weeks and you will have already found something else to bug you. it's part of renovating. 😉

Hope this helped. Nailbag

Dave-1

Good Morning @bettyrocker

I like your thinking, I have the same type of old school kitchen and can picture yours in my head 🙂

I really like @Nailbag's answer to your questions. The only thing I will add is the glue will also help stop any flex on the board as its only 18mm thick. My bench looks level but you can see wear points on the high sections. The glue will be fill for that 1mm ish imperfection.

I would oil the timber on top, and not worry about the underside as the liquid nails will be doing its job.

Dave

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