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How to mount wall cabinets in kitchen?

Hi Team,

I am currently doing a kitchen upgrade.
I have one 600mm straight wall cabinet and a 600mm corner wall cabinet to attach along a wall that is 1235mm long. I also have an end panel and filler panel as the cabinets are not exactly the same size as the wall.
there were previously wall cabinets but they were very not fit for purpose and very inaccessible in the way they were arranged. Impossible to use in a meaningful way so they were just a waste of space.
The wall is pink gyprock with a metal frame of sorts behind it. I’ve found where I think the studs are but this may be incorrect given there’s that frame. I can’t physically see the studs and frame since the gyprock is intact except for a small hole where the power point. I have identified the location where the ac cables for this powerpoint come from/go to.
Some of the spots which were used to anchor the previous cabinet are in the right spot for the new cabinet so would it be ok to reuse the same points on the wall, or should I go a little above/below to reduce risk of failure within the gyprock?

For those that dont line up, would wallmates be appropriate, or would cleats work better in this situation?

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MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @karinas. It's fantastic to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about installing cabinetry.

To accurately determine the location of the timber studs behind your gyprock, I recommend cutting small inspection holes in the plasterboard. This way, you can confirm the stud placement and ensure that your screws penetrate securely into them. The holes will be covered by the cabinetry later, so you won’t need to worry about the aesthetics. Make sure to use screws long enough to pass through the gyprock, the metal frame, and into the timber studs for a strong hold.

If there are existing anchor points from the previous cabinets that align with the studs, it’s generally okay to reuse them as long as they are in good condition. However, if the previous anchors show signs of wear or if the screws don't align well, it's wise to reposition slightly above or below to ensure a secure fit and avoid potential failure within the gyprock.

For spots that don’t line up with the studs, cleats are a better option than Wallmates, as Wallmates do not have a suitable weight rating for cabinetry. Cleats will provide a sturdy backing for your cabinets and help distribute the weight evenly, minimising the risk of damage or instability.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

karinas

Hi Mitchell

Thanks for your reply.

There are no timber studs.
They are metal and not very wide.

I think I’ve found them based on the sound when I knock on the wall, what the stud finder tells me and where the previous cabinets were fixed onto the wall. It all matches up considering those three things. Some of the holes from the previous cabinets are in the right spot but I would feel more comfortable if there were more things holding it onto the wall.
The previous cabinet (very heavy melamine - 19 kg for just the cabinet) only had three screws holding it into the studs, but I think it may have been partially held up by tension between a wall and the side panel around the fridge area. They were just 8G timber screws, 70mm long.

There is already a hole in the plasterboard for a powerpoint. I have moved that to the side (carefully and with the power off, of course), shone a torch in, and can only see metal and fluffy insulation. No timber.

If using cleats, my cabinets will not be very flush with the wall, will they? Are there cleats that are thin and won’t make cabinet have a gap behind it? Can you show me the types of cleats that would be appropriate for hanging a cabinet to a plasterboard wall?

How would I best fix cleats to the wall? There is quite a decent piece of wall that has power cables behind it for the powerpoints and this takes up an approx 250-300mm wide spot on the wall from ceiling to the bench, so that is a no go zone.
One cabinet weighs 16kg and the other 10kg, plus whatever gets put inside it.

I mentioned wallmates before but I meant hollow wall anchors. Would it be possible for these to work or the toggle type of anchor for the smaller cabinet? There’s a stud in a good spot on one side so I could use the stud and anchor on the other side?

EricL

Hello @karinas

I propose using 42 x 19mm 1.8m DAR Pine Premium - 1.8m in combination with Ramset Super Wallmate Toggle Anchor. The toggle anchor has a screw activated toggle that lowers the toggle bar at the back to secure it to the plasterboard. The timber panel which we'll call the cleat must be anchored properly to as many steel studs as possible. Those areas that don't have any suds at the back must at least have a minimum of three toggle anchors every 250mm.

In order to prevent your cabinet from tilting a second timber piece must be installed close to the bottom of the cabinet to serve as a filler. Therefore, when you hang the cabinet, it will be flat to the wall. Now I understand that there will be a gap at the back, in order to cover this, I suggest cutting a small strip of timber from the filler panel about 30mm wide. Preferably the side that has a finish on it. I then suggest linking the cut piece to the back of the wall panel and then you can slide that wall end panel in place.

Please give me some time to draw a quick render. As soon as I finish, I'll post the finished drawing here.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

karinas

Hi Eric

thanks for your reply. I’m having trouble visualising what you mean so I’m looking forward to your render.

Do you mean to attach the pine to the wall, and then the cabinet to the pine?
The studs are not evenly spaced which is really annoying. I honestly do not know what is going on behind the plasterboard but it seems some studs are as close as 200mm apart, and some are 550mm apart. And there’s that big space of 250-300mm where behind the plasterboard is a whole lot of AC cables that go from ceiling to benchtop level.
It’s an L shaped area and there is no stud in the corner (there probably is, but it’s not usable). Studs are about 450-500mm away from the corner on both sides hence why I want to use a toggle (or something similar) in that space without studs so I don’t end up with an entire cabinet on the floor and a huge mess.

Nailbag

Hi @karinas

The information that both @EricL and @MitchellMc remains the same even though you have metal studs not timber ones. It's just that you will use suitably sized/length metal screws instead of timber ones. Non-stud fixing will also be the same advice they have provided.

As you have already noted there are electrical cables running through some areas. This just means the fixing screws will need to go above or below in those spots as you want to fix to as many of the studs as possible. The cabinets will also be fixed to each other through their side walls as each cabinet is added. This will also share load and add additional support for all the cabinets, especially those with fewer studs and more wall anchors.

The photo below is an example of this. Each cabinet is fixed to the next with 4 countersunk screws after each one is fixed to the wall. I use Ramset multipurpose anchors for non-stud fixing in to the plasterboard. I like them because I can use them in both plasterboard and masonry with plenty of load capacity.

Mark the rear of each cabinet the location of the stud and pre-drill the holes through the back. Then drill the pilot holes for the fastener fixings. Position and fix the cabinet in place. mark the fixings position with a long tip marker. Then remove the cabinet and install the fastener and rehang the cabinet to all fixing points. Then continue along.

Nailbag

Screenshot 2024-10-16 at 7.07.02 AM.png

Dave-1

Good Morning @karinas

Ive only attached kitchen cupboards to the timber studs of wall before and was lucky or unlucky enough that the plaster had to be replaced where there were tiles. Id marked the studs top and bottom 🙂

I like @Nailbag's and @EricL 's example of how to with the install with a cleat. It does make sense.

Im not keen on using anything to secure to just the plaster, I just dont trust it long term (tho the specs say so and so)

Was trying to figure a way around the issue so you could find the metal studs and kept coming up against cutting a section out to actually confirm it was there. (lots of work but was heading that way)

Then I thought why not just draw a straight line in pencil horizontal against the middle of where the cabinets will be. Then using a stanley knife cut the straight line where you think a stud will be. Extend the cut until you feel the stud with the blade of the stanely knife. The blade is only 15mm-20mm deep so you should be able to hit the stud. Once you have found the first one, 300mm, 450mm, or 600mm for the next one. once you have three you hopefully will have the lot. The single line cut you can repair or as someone said it will be hidden behind the cabinets anyway.

The spots that were previously used I would go as you suggested and screw higher or lower biut not the same hole. (If you have a few you may be able to figure the distance between the studs. Just divide the distance between two of the old fixing points by the 300mm or 450mm or 600mm. The 300 and 600mm would throw me out as Id go to put a screw in thinking it was 300mm spacing when it is 600. Thats why Once you have found one with the cut and see method you will know for sure.

Dave

EricL

Hello @karinas

Thank you for your patience. I've placed some images below to give you an idea of how you can place the French cleats on the wall and how you can cover the sides and gap at the back. Your goal is to anchor the cleats as securely as possible so that it will be able to support the cabinet and the items that will be put in them.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

wall cabs 1.jpg wall cabs 2.jpg wall cabs 3.jpg wall cabs 4.jpg wall cabs 5.jpg wall cabs 6.jpg wall cabs 7.jpg

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