How to build a barn door?

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @shaqqi. It's sensational to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about creating a barn door.

Creating a barn door from scratch would be considered an intermediate woodworking project. I don't want to discourage you from attempting it, but you should be aware that it is a relatively in-depth project. You might like to check out @jwatt's Sliding barn door for inspiration. They used Pine lining boards and framed them with DAR Pine. I've created a rendering below to assist in your build.

Typically you'd want the width and height of the door to be slightly larger than the opening so it covers it when closed. So, you could make your door 2200 x 1000mm.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Hi again @shaqqi,

I thought I'd also link you to our wide range of barn doors for you to take a look at too. Just in case you don't decide to go ahead with your D.I.Y. project.

Mitchell

Thanks Mitchell for the guidance and sharing the posts

After your post and research I came to a conclusion that i will give it a go as i am confident i can do that but still some expertise guidance i will be needing to progress . Design i am going to build is attached for reference. There are 2 options i concluded to go from. Please advise which will be better option. Reason for asking is the overall thickness difference between both options

Option 1 (Total door thickness will 12+19 = 31mm)

Pine Lining Boards (12 mm thick only available in Bunnings ) Main 140 x 12mm 4.8m Unprimed Solid 321 Lining Board

And

Frame with DAR Pine of 89x19 mm or 140 x 19mm dressed pine. (available in Bunnings)

Option 2 (Total door thickness will be 19+19 = 38mm)

DAR Pine of 184 x19 mm (6 pieces to join) or 140 x 19mm (8 pieces to join) dressed pine.

And

Frame with DAR Pine of 89x19 mm or 140 x 19mm dressed pine.

Also suggest screwing or nailing is better, appreciate if share the recommend screw/nail size to buy for recommended option

Thanks

Hassan Barn Door .png

Hi @shaqqi,

That's brilliant, I'm glad you've decided to give it a crack.

Regardless of the thickness, option 1 is my choice. The main reason for this is that the 140 x 12mm Lining Boards are manufactured with tongue and groove edges so they lock together far easier than DAR pine does.

It's also worth noting that if the door is likely to be viewed from both sides you may want to add the 19mm DAR on both sides of the door so it is uniform regardless of which side you are viewing. This will make the door 50mm thick.

To make your door as strong as possible, the 140x12 lining boards should be glued together and then clamped while the glue sets. Due to the width of your door, you'll have to use some decent-sized clamps such as these Craftright 1200mm T-Bar Sash Clamps.

Brad nails are the best option for attaching your DAR to the lining boards as they are designed with a narrow head that sinks below the surface of the timber so they can be covered with timber filler. Unfortunately, they require a nail gun to be effective. As they are extremely thin, hammering them manually is not usually a viable option.

25mm nails are the only size brad nail that will work if you choose to put the trim on only one side of the door. These PowerFit 25mm C Series Electro-Galvanised Brad Nails can be fired by this air bradder, but unfortunately, it will also require an air compressor to function. You'll have to contact your local store to check for availability.

If you put trim on both sides of the door, you can use longer nails such as these 38mm Angled Brad Nails which can be fired by this Trim Master Gas Bradder. Once again, you'll have to check with your local store for availability.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Hi Jacob

Thanks for guiding the way forward and the links. Its very helpful.

I will be proceeding with below please confirm that is correct arrangement

140 x 12mm Lining Boards are manufactured with tongue and groove edges (Clearly understand clamping and glued thing. Can do that)

Frame (Vertical / Horizontal on door corner sides) with DAR Pine of 140 x 19mm dressed pine. (available in Bunnings): Going one side only

Frame (Horizontal in middle) with DAR Pine of 140 x 19mm dressed pine. (available in Bunnings)

Barn Door 2 .png

I have to trim 2 x lining board edges (5 ~ 10 mm) which are at door left and right edges to make it flat both ends and will align with Frame DAR Pine.

But please advise the best alternate way regarding Nails/Screws. As going with rental/hire options is a bit hassle i prefer to buy and use it in best suitable and economical way . Please advise the nail/screw to sue which i can but the nail gun (for infor i already have the drill/machine so screw can be used)

Also share some guidance how many nails/screws is required to each joining point between lining boards and DAR frame . If there is any sketch layout available or guide It will be very helpful. I want to nail them to minimum level enough to be strong /durable . I have shared the nailing pattern in pic like 4 nails on each corners of door wherever the lining boards and DAR pine are joining. Appreciate your response

Thanks

Hassan

Hi @shaqqi,

Brad nails are the better option because they are much easier to hide than screws are.

You can use either this Ryobi 18V ONE+ 18GA Brad Nailer or this Ozito PXC 18V Cordless PXNGS-018 with these Arrow 25mm Brad Nails.

See the below image for my recommended nailing pattern.

I'd also suggest applying some wood glue to the back of your trim pieces before nailing them in place. The glue can be spread liberally so any gaps between the nails are also held tight to the lining boards.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

Thanks Jacob for the photo and advise

Definitely i will ask all the queries to make it right first time and will be an example for new comers

Below are my few queries if you can share your expertise

1. Please suggest the best wood glue with link to use to combine lining boards along with qty of glue required

2. How much time shall i leave them to cure after clamping

3. Shall i do sanding of lining boards prior to combining all ( I will do staining afterwards) or leave sanding at the time for staining

4. Do i use wood filler on nails or nails head will be cover in staining itself if have to use please share the filler link to use

5. Barn door track for Door width approx.1100 mm and thickness = 31 mm (all i can find in bunnings are for 2000 m width and thickness suitable from 35 mm onwards )

Thanks

Hassan

Hi @shaqqi,

The more information our readers can get the better, so thank you for asking.

Gorilla Wood Glue Ultimate and Sika 1L Sikabond® PVA Adhesive are both very good options. I can't say for sure how much you will need, but I would be surprised if you need more than 1L of either.
At minimum 4 hours, preferably overnight.
A light sand is worthwhile, but I wouldn't go overboard because some glue will squeeze out of the joins and will need cleaning up after.
Timbermate Pine Wood Filler should be used on nail holes and then sanded before staining.
Because of the width of your door, you will have to go up to a 3m track. This Rolltrak 3000 x 40 x 6mm Barn Door Track Matte Black Side Mount will work with your door, however, you may need to shorten the bolts that are provided. If necessary, this can be done with a hacksaw.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Thanks Jacob

Today is Bunnings shopping day

Is it possible to nail 25mm-c-series-electro-galvanised-brad-nails or arrow-25mm-brown-brad-nails .using pinnacle-hardware-nail-holder ?
Rolller track you mentioned is of 3 m length . Will it not be too long for 2.2 m door. We don't have any like 2.5 m length ?

Thanks

Hassan

Hi @shaqqi,

Using the Pinnacle Hardware Nail Holder you should be able to drive a brad nail without a nail gun, but it is still likely you will bend a few.

If you'd like to give it a try, you'll have to drive them down as far as you can before using a Nail Punch to sink them below the surface.

Unfortunately, I am not aware of a 2.5m barn door track, so this is your best option. You'll just have to set the bump stops in further from the ends, so the door stops in the right places.

You can see this in Step 8 of the Instruction manual.

I'm very excited for your project to commence.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

Jacob

Hi Jacob

Can you see the difference of pine board and pine dar. will it look bad when I join them together .

I do have a plan to varnish them will that difference will be cover after staining ?

Thnaks

Hassa

Hi @shaqqi,

They are both pine, so if you do stain and then varnish them, the difference in colouring should be minimised.

Mitchell

HI Mitchell

I am in the process of making the barn door as you can see the attached pictures

WhatsApp Image 2024-11-06 at 10.23.49 PM.jpeg

Now have some queries

Lining board side edges i have cut to the required width now what is the best way to make both side surface as smooth as DAR pine of frame

WhatsApp Image 2024-11-06 at 10.23.50 PM (1).jpeg

Furthermore, moving forwards please recommend what tools shall i use for sanding and staining the door.

Shall i used manual sanding block or machine sander (there are so many different type orbital sander, sheet sander, detail sander)

and for staining manually with cotton rag or sprayer (if sprayer then suggest which sprayer will be best suited for staining as well as wall painting which i can use in future.

Thanks

Hassan

Hi Hassan (@shaqqi),

Great job on the barn door so far! To smooth the edges of the lining boards to match the DAR pine frame, you can certainly hand sand using a sanding block to get a smooth finish. However, using a detail sander would make the job quicker and give you more control, especially for smaller or more intricate areas. A random-orbital sander would also be a good choice, possibly allowing it to be used on a wider range of projects in the future. I recommend checking out this guide on How to choose the right sander for the job, which will walk you through the options based on the type of work you’re doing.

As for staining, the stain product you choose will typically include recommendations for application tools. Generally, a rag, brush, or fine nap roller works well for applying stain. In my experience, using a rag gives you great control over the finish, but a brush can help if you're working on larger areas. If you’re considering a sprayer for future use, it can be handy for staining and other painting tasks, but it may not be essential unless you have very large surfaces to cover, and they can be very tricky to use.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Hi Mitchell

What i understood from your advise and topic link is both detail sander or orbital sander will work in my case and for future use it is good to get orbital as it can be use for walls as well.

You recommending hand application for staining where as after watching videos i found spraying more easy than using hand application therefore asking which sprayer shall i get which will be helpful to this project and also for future paint application to household projects including walls.

Is there any special video r guide available to use the sprayer for staining professionally . what i am hesitant on hand application is that i may apply more varnish in one place than other which will make the texture different.

Thanks

Hassan

Hi Hassan (@shaqqi)

To clarify on staining, while spraying can seem appealing, most people actually apply stain by hand using a rag, brush, or roller. Spraying stain is rarely used, except on very large projects like entire kitchen cabinetry jobs, because it’s tricky to get an even finish with stain via sprayer. Spraying often leads to uneven coats, dripping, or pooling, especially on wood, which can create a patchy or streaky appearance.

Hand application, on the other hand, gives you far more control. By applying with a rag or brush, you can better manage the consistency of the stain across the surface. This allows you to avoid heavy spots or uneven texture, resulting in a more uniform and professional look. Plus, with a rag or brush, you can easily adjust the amount of stain you’re applying to ensure a smooth, even coat.

If you’re set on using a sprayer, a Wagner W100 Wood And Metal Paint Sprayer might work well, but for this door, I’d definitely recommend sticking with hand application for the best results.

Mitchell

Hi Mitch,

We have selected Cabot Interior Stain Oil Based (Cedar) & Cabot’s Cabothane Clear Oil Based and using hand brush for application

I have done the sanding with grit paper 120 and 180 before application of stain.

After applying interior stain oil based, below marks are appearing (pics attached). These are more likely of wood glue that is not letting stain to show wood grains. Can you advise what shall i do to remove this wood glue. Thanks

WhatsApp Image 2024-11-27 at 10.06.33 AM (1).jpeg

EricL

Hello @shaqqi

I recommend using your sander and sanding the surface more thoroughly until the sections with adhesive have been removed. You can clearly see which parts have been covered with adhesive and where you need to focus your efforts. Once the surface is free of adhesive, I suggest doing a test and applying some stain, observe carefully if the surface will accept the stain. Any section that rejects the stain will need more sanding.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Which grit sanding paper to use ?

EricL

Hello @shaqqi

I suggest using 240grit sandpaper to prevent sanding too deeply into the timber surface.

Eric

Thanks Eric for the advise.

I’ve completed the staining and subsequent steps. Most of the marks seem to be well-covered now. I’ll share photos soon after applying the final clear coat.

Now come the installation query. I have seen the Bunning installation guide video and i like the idea of using a SUPPORT HEADER.

Can you please advise which wood and size dimensions of wood bar shall i use ( Door is made of pine lining board and frame Pine DAR). Please share the link would be helpful so i just simply buy it and do stain meanwhile . (For info my door width is 1100 mm so i am using 2440 mm roller track length therefore 2.4 m length wood bar is needed

Thanks

Hassan

Hi Hassan (@shaqqi),

You could either use a 140 x 19mm 2.4m DAR Pine Premium, or my preference would be to go with 110 x 19mm 2.4m DAR Tasmanian Oak Select, which is a slightly harder timber. Just ensure that whichever track system you choose the timber is tall enough to suit the provided mounts.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Hi Mitch

Tasmanian oak link which you shared is not opening and tried myself to search on Bunning site it is not coming as well may be it is out of stock

Pine will be my preference as it will give same texture after staining as like the door. As long as it is durable that's the main point i want to know.

Can you please suggest the suitable bolt i shall use to fix to wall as well

Thanks

Hassan

Pine will be suitably durable Hassan (@shaqqi). Just ensure it is well fixed to the timber studs in the wall. I'd recommend two screws into each stud along its span.

Mitchell

OK..

Can you please suggest and share the link of screws

Thanks

Hassan

These 75mm timber screws would do the job Hassan (@shaqqi).

Mitchell

Hi Mitch,

I am just confirming and clarifying my confusion the screw you proposed is to be used to attach Support header to stud wood frame of house ? There is a concrete wall as well in between so this screw is good for support header to sustain the load of door ?

Thanks

Hassan

Hi @shaqqi,

If the wall behind is not a timber framed plaster-covered wall and instead a concrete wall then you'd need to use one of these Ramset 6 x 75mm Countersunk DynaBolt Plus Masonry Anchors for attachment to masonry.

Mitchell

Thanks Mitch for clarification .

For concrete wall the sequence will be like

Fix the DAR Pine using Dynabolt as mentioned above to the concrete wall directly (or shall i still need to find for stud locations to fix dynabolts)

And fix the roller track screw supplied to DAR pine support header

Thanks

Hassan