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How to install steel stud & track wall in shed?

G'day all,

Looking to insulate and line my shed which I want to convert into a mancave. I've been exploring whether or not I would benefit installing a Steel Stud & Track Wall over a traditional Timber frame. I'm planning on lining it with high density Gyprock (13mm) or even fibre cement sheeting.

I've been exploring the Rondo design manuals on how to go about this. I'd prefer to keep the wall as close to the colorbond wall sheets to maximise space in the shed, but this is posing a problem. Initially, I received advice that this could be done by securing the base track to the concrete slab and attaching the header track to the beams at the top. But this would be considered an "External" wall and as such, would require 1.15 BMT gauge. I've had this quoted and it's come out much more expensive than first thought.

I could reduce this cost by going down to 0.75BMT, but the wall would need to what's considered an "internal" wall. I would not be able to attach anything to the wall beam / columns. I'd need to attach the header track to the Truss / Rafter. My shed is constructed as a Portal frame and the truss/rafter is connected to the columns with a knee brace / haunch brace/cleat. If I was to move the walls in toward the centre of the shed and clear the columns, I could make the attachment at the top no issues. But I'd be sacrificing a fair bit of space to do that.

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EricL

Hello @ruredi13

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us and thanks for sharing your question about your steel shed.

Converting your shed into a mancave sounds like an exciting project! Since space is a concern, using steel stud and track walls close to the colorbond sheeting could maximize your floor area while giving a sleek, modern finish. The advice about going with a heavier 1.15 BMT gauge for an external wall makes sense for stability, but as you’ve said, it can drive up costs.

To cut costs and still achieve a strong, insulated wall, you could consider the 0.75 BMT option and classify the structure as an “internal” wall. By securing the header track to the truss or rafter, instead of the beams, you won’t need the thicker gauge. If your shed’s portal frame structure allows you to make these attachments to the rafters or trusses without obstructing essential elements like knee braces or haunch braces, this method will work well, though it may mean moving the wall a bit inward.

I understand that you're not keen on a timber frame, but if you are after maximum use of space, I suggest reconsidering the advantages of a timber frame.

For insulation, the store has a range of high-density insulation batts suitable for both steel and timber frames, so you can keep things warm without using too much internal space. And for lining, high-density 13mm Gyprock or fibre cement sheeting would both be sturdy choices; Gyprock will give a smoother, interior-like finish, while fibre cement is more resistant to moisture if your shed environment tends to be humid. Good luck with your mancave setup—it’s going to be a great spot once it’s done!

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Morning @ruredi13

Welcome to The Bunnings community pages 😀 There are a bunch of questions within about insulation in here 🙂

I like the false wall idea as being the easiest and cheapest way to give a framework to install insulation and a smooth pollished finish.

Having an air gap between teh metal wall and the insulated false wall would work in your favour as well.

When I retro fitted my garage with a false wall I installed the false wall between the brick pillars to save space, you could do the same type of deal or even install each section as a stand alone and leave the support posts viewable. Garage lining for stud walls stage 1 is my project, there are a few in the sequence 🙂

Alternativly I have been watching this companies product (in the big blue F social meadia place) for awhile and it really seems it could fit your situation. Durrapanel is the products name and Ive actually filed it away for if I ever want a quieter/cooler room, the thickness of the product may well be worth the sacrifice for the sound and heat insulation properties. It also looks very easy to install.

Dave

ruredi13

Thanks mate, I'll be sure to check it out. I think the easiest and most cost-effective way for me to go about lining the walls is by using steel ceiling battens mounted vertically to the girts at 450mm centres. I was considering using Foilboard behind the battens as it contains a Vapor/Moisture barrier already. I don't really want to remove the colorbond sheets to install / retrofit sarking which is how it should be done if doing it properly. I was then going to run timber battens across the slab floor and install foilboard between the battens using the saddles.

I'm just not sure what thickness foilboard to use on the walls or floor as yet.

This weekend, I plan to paint the Galvinised beams of the shed as they will be visible once the shed walls are lined. Trying out a Wagner W350 that I purchased earlier in the week. I've never used a spray gun before.

I'm then going to apply a product called "Moisture Proof" to the slab floor. It is made by "DuraCore". Its a concrete liquid moisture barrier and densifier.

Dave-1

Afternoon @ruredi13

Sounds like a good plan. 🙂 Take photos and put it into a project if possible as this is a subject that comes up a LOT 🙂 There have been a few people that have glued foilboard to tin so maybe have a search through these pages. I would think that to leave a bit of space as it would be easier to work and maybe condensation issues (not sure if its wise to stick to the tin or leave a gap)

Definently would be interesting to read through 🙂

Dave

MitchellMc

@Dave-1, it's important to leave an air gap as it stops the transfer of heat from the sheet walls directly to the foil board. The gap increases the board's insulation ability significantly. The manufacturer advises glueing their spacer blocks to the sheet and then the board to the spacer blocks. Alternatively, you can cut up any offcuts from the boards and use them as the spacers.

Mitchell

MitchellMc

@ruredi13, if you have the room, the 25mm thick foil board offers a much higher insulation value than the 10mm board. I'd certainly recommend the 25mm for the walls.

A note for our New Zealand members: The use of foil insulation products is prohibited.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Dave-1

Thank you @MitchellMc

Will file the information away 🙂

Now the question comes to mind, do you know why the use of foil insulation in NZ is prohibited?

Dave

MitchellMc

Hi @Dave-1, you can find information about the ban from the New Zealand Ministry of Business Innovation and Employment here - https://www.building.govt.nz/assets/Uploads/building-code-compliance/warnings-bans/201601-Foil-insulation-ban.pdf

Mitchell

Dave-1

Afternoon @MitchellMc

Thank you for that and yeah pretty much what I figured was the reasoning.

My place has plaster ceilings with foil backing... 😲 and yeah thats always in my mind when I go up there. I make sure to carry the fuse with me type level 🙂 I dont think you can purchase plaster with foil backing anymore in Aus? Not that id be keen to for the same reasoning.

Dave

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