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How to install sliding doors for alfresco with sloping aggregate concrete floor?

Hi there,

I’m seeking advice regarding the installation of aluminum sliding doors in my alfresco area and wondering if it’s DIY-friendly or if professional installation is the better option.

A few challenges I’ve encountered so far:

Uneven floor slope: The existing aggregate concrete floor slopes from 5 cm on one side to 6 cm on the other.
No wooden slab for track support: Due to the eaves, there isn’t an existing wooden structure to which the sliding door track can be securely screwed.
Size mismatch: Standard-sized aluminum sliding doors (2.1m x 2.1m, priced at $850 each) would leave some gaps that need to be filled.

Size requirements for the doors:

Width: 214 cm, Height: 230–235 cm
Width: 223 cm, Height: 230–236 cm

I’ve obtained a few quotes on Facebook Marketplace, and they’re approximately $3,200 for custom-sized doors (two sliding doors).

While I’ve tackled quite a few DIY projects in the past, this one seems a bit more complex—particularly the drilling into bricks to secure the sliding door frame and then addressing the leftover gaps.

Do you think this project is feasible as a DIY endeavor, or would professional installation be worth the cost? Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

WhatsApp Image 2025-01-07 at 11.31.53_ce976e44.jpg

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Comments

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @talexpat

Your confidence level as to the task at hand is your guide Vs to get some one in to do this for you,

Can I suggest you make a list of all the tasks you need to learn and then set out to learn them at bunning how toos or youtubes,

This will boost your confidence and skills ahead of time

Also windows are heavy and awkard you will need help there.

Also consider the tools you need to drill holes in concrete do you want to own these tools for a one of job?

Just break down the project into bit size chunks.

But yes it is a solid project leaning towards more advanced, But we all learnt some how.

talexpat

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/46962#Comment_46962

Thank you for your motivational reply!

I’d appreciate your advice on a couple of things:

How can I compensate for the uneven aggregate concrete slopes on either side (5 cm and 6 cm)?
What’s the best approach for attaching a sliding door track? Should I fix it directly to the eaves or the concrete sheet above, or would screws/bolts into the brick pillars and aggregate concrete suffice?

Looking forward to your suggestions!

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/85541#Comment_85541

Hi @talexpat,

This project could certainly be a rewarding challenge, but it does involve a few technical aspects that may require some experience, especially with drilling into masonry and addressing the uneven concrete floor. You’d need to be comfortable using the right tools for both tasks, as well as finding a way to secure the sliding door track properly. It’s important to keep in mind that it might take a bit more time and effort, especially with the specialised tasks involved. If you’re feeling unsure at any point, professional help might be a good option to consider.

For the questions about compensating for the uneven concrete slopes and attaching the sliding door track, those are best directed to the door manufacturer. They will have the most accurate advice regarding the specific door product you're using, as different manufacturers may have different installation requirements or solutions for such challenges. They can provide guidance on how to handle the uneven floor and the best way to secure the track, considering the design of their product and the materials you're working with.

Please let us know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

talexpat

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/107997#Comment_107997

Hi All,

I’ve managed to purchase sliding doors from Fb Marketplace at a much lower cost—$575 each. They’re 2100mm (H) x 1800mm (W), which is smaller than the opening. This means I’ll need to build a stud frame to fill the gaps. Please refer to the plan below:

I’m considering using cement sheets on the exterior side of the stud framing and interior cladding on the interior side.

A few questions I’d love some advice on:

1. Should I use two H3 treated pine columns closer to the door frame, or would a single pine column suffice? Please refer to the middle image in the plan for clarification.
2. For waterproofing, is applying sealant to all corners and joints (between the cement sheet and aluminum frame) sufficient, or should I also add flashing tape around the frame and surrounding studs?

3. Please advise if am missing out any important step.
Thanks heaps!

Sliding doors plan.jpg

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121434#Comment_121434

Hi @talexpat,

When it comes to the number of H3 treated pine columns, I’d recommend using two rather than one. Sliding doors, especially if they’re double-glazed or heavy, need solid support to prevent any issues over time. Having two columns spaced closer to the door frame will help distribute the weight more evenly and provide better structural stability, particularly since these doors will experience regular use. If you’re unsure about the weight or structural requirements, consulting a professional would be a good idea to ensure the frame is safe and compliant with building codes.

For waterproofing, applying sealant to all corners and joints is a good starting point, but it won’t provide enough long-term protection on its own. To properly waterproof the frame, I’d recommend adding flashing tape around the entire perimeter of the door frame and surrounding studs. This will create an additional barrier against water ingress. Installing a layer of sarking or a weather-resistant barrier over the timberwork, behind the cement sheet cladding, will also protect the frame from moisture. Make sure to seal all joints between the cement sheets and the aluminium frame using a high-quality, flexible sealant like Sikaflex. Pay extra attention to edges and areas where the cement sheet meets the ground or other materials to ensure a watertight finish.

Your approach to building the frame and cladding it sounds reasonable, but I’d encourage you to get a professional involved to assist with the installation. Sliding doors can be challenging to install correctly, especially if the frame isn’t perfectly level or if the doors aren’t aligned properly. A professional will help ensure the doors operate smoothly and comply with safety standards.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

TKay

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121434#Comment_121434

how did you go with the final outcome? share the final shape and details. Thanks.

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/130630#Comment_130630

Hi @TKay,

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community, it is fantastic to have you with us.

Allow me to tag @talexpat so they are notified of your question.

Hopefully, they will respond shortly.

Jacob

talexpat

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/130630#Comment_130630

Hello,
I ended up using an angle grinder to level out a patch of concrete, giving it a near-perfect base, as shown in the photos below.

I’m still exploring options to finish off the exposed base on both the inside and outside—possibly with angled trims as cover plates. I’m open to any suggestions or alternative ideas.

Below are some progress photos of this project. It’s not 100% complete yet, and I’ve already moved on to a couple of other projects around the house.

DIY project alfresco.jpg PXL_20250810_224142438.MP.jpg

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135441#Comment_135441

Looks amazing @talexpat! I think you're on the right track with the trim pieces. The expansion joint foam needs to be cut down flush with the slab, and a black right-angled trim piece should be fixed over the gap. Something like this Metal Mate 20 x 20 x 1.5mm 3m Black Aluminium Equal Angle.

Well done.

Mitchell

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