Child Item

Need inspiration for dry bar area

Jersey1975

Hi there I have built this but stuck on what to put above. OPtions are

Arch with shelves

Cupboard with glass doors on one side then shelves

BUT we really want a wine rack in there but no idea how to include it or build it, would love any inspo please.

Thank you

Find more posts tagged with

Renovation

Accepted answers

JacobZ

Hi @Jersey1975,

The first thing I'd suggest is to be really sure of your measurements beforehand. You can never trust that walls are square, so you should always measure with the assumption that they aren't.

Use a spirit level to mark a perfectly level pencil line on all three walls of the opening. You can then measure all three sides of the opening along this level line and then measure the distance between the pencil marks at where the front of the shelf will sit.

When measuring sheet products before cutting, I'd always draw the shape on a scrap of paper and mark the measurements on each side so I have a reference I can use to transfer the marks onto the material I am cutting. That way, I don't get confused about what measurement relates to which side.

When you are marking your shelf for cutting, use a sharp pencil and a straight edge to make sure the line is perfectly where you want it and remember which side of the line is being removed. This is because you will always want to cut up to the line, not through the line. Your blade is 2-3mm wide, so if your mark is perfectly on the point that you've measured, if your saw blade runs directly through the centre of the line you will be half a blade's width off which is between 1-1.5mm.

Set your blade depth so it will only just pass through the material. This is the best way to ensure you are not overloading the saw which can cause it to go offline.

You can then use some clamps with your spirit level to set a guide to cut along. Check out what they've done in How To Cut Laminate Benchtop for an example of this in action.

Finally, remember to take it slow, there's no reason to rush.

Let me know if you have any further questions and if you'd like some more assistance, please don't hesitate to reach out.

Jacob

All comments

JacobZ

Hi @Jersey1975,

Thank you for your question.

Can you advise what the dimensions of the opening are? This would certainly help our members understand the space and offer their best advice.

An arch like @JoMarie-BB's Kitchen bar with floating shelves and arch would be fantastic, but it may limit the amount of usable space. If you'd like to install an arch, we'd need to think tactically to make the most of the space.

Some examples of wine racks we've seen in our community include this Custom built-in timber wine-rack cabinet from @diy_hausdesigns and this Built-in wine rack above fridge from @sportyrom. These may provide some ideas that we can work with for your space.

A simple wine rack would be fairly easy to make yourself. You could use shelving materials such as White Matt Particleboard or some nice AA Grade Marine Plywood. Using Jomarie-BB's design as inspiration, you could turn one of the shelves into a wine rack by adding a second shelf underneath and adding some dividers.

Something like this might work well for you.

Also, allow me to tag @Noyade, @RenoRach, @Dave-1 and @Nailbag to see if they have any ideas.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

Jersey1975

Thank you so much! The dimensions are 1780 wide and 1300 high

EricL

Hello @Jersey1975

Thank you for sharing those measurements. I've posted some sample images below to give you an idea of what it could look like when combined with Kaboodle wine racks and custom cabinetry. I've made the arch shallow to maximize the cabinetry in the remaining space.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Jersey1975

Oh wow thank you so much for all that work you have done for me. Could I ask how you would do the arch? I was going to do an mdf one over the shelves but how would I do it above the cupboards and would you put some crown moulding above the cupboards?

EricL

Hi @Jersey1975

In order to do the arch, you'll need to build an arch frame with a shallow curve. You can still use MDF to go over the frame, but it will need to be a thin sheet so that it does not crack or rupture as you make the turn. In regards to the crown moulding, it all depends on the size and shape of it. If there is enough room for it, I say go for it.

If you need further assistance, please let me know.

Eric

Dave-1

Good Evening @Jersey1975

@EricL has beat me to the punch with a better design for sure, I was thinking of about half of one side he has done and the other half some sort of supportr for spirit bottles and (upside down with the push mechanisim for the quantity of spirits) I like Erics as it will be a lot stronger across the width.

As for the arch, I like squarer arches 🙂 Just a preference but Eric has already given an idea on how to build one 🙂

Dave

Nailbag

I have no hope competing with one of @EricL 3D imagery. And I really like the design, but personally I preference to keep it square set. It also makes it an easier build. I would add under the top cabinetry hanging wine glass racks.

Nailbag

Screenshot 2025-01-14 at 9.46.03 pm.png

Jersey1975

Thank you

Jersey1975

Hi Eric are you able to mock something up for me please? So one cupboard either side no arch with floating shelves in the middle of them and a wine rack underneath? The cupboards would be 400mm wide so 200mm shorter than the base cabinets. thanks so much

EricL

Hello @Jersey1975

As requested, here is your updated dry bar with no curve and shelves installed.

If you need further assistance, please let me know.

Eric

Jersey1975

You’re amazing thank you

would you put cupboards up to ceiling without coving?

EricL

Hi @Jersey1975

That would be a design preference and it's a choice you'll need to make. Personally, I would probably maximize the cabinet space so that it looks full. But it all depends on what items you'll be storing into that area. If you're not storing a lot of glasses or bottles, then there is no need to have very large cabinets in the area.

Eric

Jersey1975

hi Eric thanks for your help so far.

ive gone with the shelves albeit cut them a bit short but hey the arch will cover it.

my space is 1760 x 810 what’s the best way to cut an arch to fit this space? Love any advice thank you

JacobZ

Hi @Jersey1975,

I'd suggest using a sheet of 18 x 2400 x 1200mm MDF to create your arch.

Cut it to length to fit the gap, then mark the shape of the arch on the MDF. You can then use a jig saw to cut out the arch.

Once cut, screw 70 x 35mm Framing Pine to the top and sides to the point where the arch ends. Set the timber 18mm back from the front of the opening so the MDF will sit flush with the face. You can then screw the MDF arch in place.

Once in place, use No More Gaps to fill the gaps between the MDF and the existing plasterboard and paint everything to match.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

Jersey1975

Struggling to understand how to draw the arch?! So it looks like this

shall I fix the timber in the space first and then screw that arch on?

JacobZ

Hi @Jersey1975,

Yes, you should fix the timber in place first and then screw the arch on. If you have the arch sit at the front of the opening, you can guarantee there is timber behind the plaster that this timber can attach to.

If it is set further back, like in your example, then you may need to frame the opening differently to ensure a stud is available to fix into.

In the method I am envisioning, the arch would just be a piece of timber at the front of the opening. If you wanted to add a "ceiling" to the arch, there would be more complexity and due to the location of the downlight, you would need to involve an electrician.

To draw the arch, use a screw and a piece of string. Put a screw into the MDF and tie the string around it. You can then tie the other end of the string around a pencil. Pull the string tight and rotate the pencil around the screw. If kept tight, the length of the string will be the radius of the arch. It may take some playing around to get it how you like, but this is the basic method.

Alternatively, you could use a piece of cardboard to cut out a template and then transfer that template onto the MDF.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

JacobZ

Hi @Jersey1975,

Just to add, the arch in your example photo looks to be using a radius that is half the width of the opening. As you've indicated the opening is 1780mm wide, the radius will be 890mm.

If you cut the string to this length, the arch will finish nicely on the sides of the opening.

To create the thicker top of the arch, simply measure down from the top of the MDF 890mm and then add whatever height you want for the top of your arch. For example, if you want it to be 100mm, measure down 990mm, for 200mm, measure down 1090mm.

Let me know if you need any further clarification.

Jacob

Dave-1

Afternoon @Jersey1975

Yes I would attach the two pieces of 70*35mm to either side of the opening first, allowing for the 18mm of the archs width so it will be flush with the wall.

For the actuall arch, lay the mdf on the floor, Draw the width of the space onto the mdf (So ou end up with the top and either side drawn. Then using a pencil, string and a nail (or drawing pin)

You dont want the circle to be a half circle (Too steep a side), maybe the top 1/3 to 1/4 to give you a nice arch. So half way between the two vertical sides but the nail or pin, then using the string, tie it around the pencil and the other end around the pin, that way you can pencil in an arch. Judge if its too tight an arch and then change the length of the string and also the center of the string further away from the top of the door opening.

You will end up with several pencil lines 🙂 But eventually you will have one that you like. Then use a circular saw or the vertical cuts and a jigsaw for the curved arch.

Dave

Jersey1975

Thanks so much I’ve managed it BUT made a mistake on the length! How can I correct it?

JacobZ

Hi @Jersey1975,

I'd suggest moving it down by that little bit and then adding a timber trim at the top to cover the gap that would appear when moving the arch down.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

Dave-1

Good Afternoon @Jersey1975

Id actually cut off another little bit and use something like liquid nails to glue it in place. Once dry sand it so its smooth and then use some putty or plaster to cover the join. It wont be noticable if you sand the new piece and old together and painted.

Dave

Jersey1975

@JacobZ Also the 70x35 lengths you can see quite obviously I put them at the top but look terrible. Any ideas? Thanks so much for your help

Jersey1975

Thank you could you reccomend a trim?

also and I will reiterate novice here I’ve cut the shelves a bit short was hoping the arch would cover it but still noticeable how would you fill it? Or would you get a new shelf?

Dave-1

Good Evening @Jersey1975

Mmmmm Do you have a picture of the 70*35mm timber? It depends on how long you have cut them I am thinking?

As to the gap, Id halve the distance between the wall by opening up the other side the same. So shift it a couple of mm to the right and then use Selleys 475g No More Gaps Interior Multipurpose Gap Filler and run a bead around the ends to give it a finished look.

The only other way to extend it a little its to cut off a thin slice and attach it to the end but then its back to sanding smooth the edges to make it straight so you dont see it once painted.

Dave

Jersey1975

Thanks Dave I cut the timber to run the whole width of the shelf so I’ll cut it shorter so it’s less visible. Thank you for the tip on the shelves

JacobZ

Hi @Jersey1975,

For timber trims, you can use a variety of options including 31 x 11mm, 12 x 12mm Tri Quad and 18 x 18mm Quad. It might be worth a trip in-store to check out the full range of Timber Mouldings. There are heaps to choose from and your choice comes down to your style.

@Dave-1's advice about the shelf is a great solution and is what I would recommend if you don't want to try cutting a new shelf.

If you want to try again with a new shelf or would like a tip for next time, make sure you measure the width of the opening at both the front and the back of the shelf. You can never assume things are square and the bottom shelf certainly looks like the squareness of the opening is a factor.

Let me know if you need any further assistance.

Jacob

Jersey1975

Would they cut that shelf down for me in store? @JacobZ

Dave-1

Afternoon @Jersey1975

Id say probarly not, After the timber leaves the store it would be problematic bringing it back in to cut. As a work around maybe hit the guys up down in the timber section and ask? No harm for that one. Another option is a mens shed that is close to you.

The timber you will be using is probarly pine, even a hand saw would work. Id probarly suggest a few test cuts if you havnt used one before (I have a habit of a curved cut 🙂 ) One thing to remember is long smooth pushes of the saw blade over short sharp ones work best.

Dave

Jersey1975

Thanks Dave I have a circular saw and normally not bad with it I was going to buy a new one and ask if they would cut it down for me

Dave-1

Afternoon @Jersey1975

Then they would cut it no probs. Please note that the cuts are not neccasarily on the mm mark. That is up to us to get right otherwise they could potentially have all of us come back and say "it is wrong" and "I want another piece" 🙂 So my best rule of thumb would be to get it cut to a few cms over the length you need and when you get it home do the final cut that is accurate.

Dave

Child Item