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How to align Ozito Table Saw blade?

Marsbar54

Hello,

I looking for someone to help me with my Ozito Table Saw:

TBS-2000

254mm Table Saw

Date: 2020/12/OZI-20-6351-AU

The saw blade appears to be misaligned to the fence and I cannot find the alignment adjustment screw.

When ripping lengths of wood one side is burned (blackened) by the saw blade.

Please help!

Regards

Mario

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JacobZ

Hi @Marsbar54,

A warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community and thank you for your question.

Looking at the Ozito TBS-2000 Instruction Manual and Ozito 2000W Table Saw Assembly, there doesn't appear to be an adjustment screw for the blade, which assuming the blade was installed correctly, makes me think the issue lies elsewhere.

Unfortunately, I don't have a definitive answer, but I'll try to help troubleshoot by asking you some questions. If you can answer them, I think we can narrow things down and come up with a plan.

For safety, please remember to unplug the table saw when troubleshooting and follow the instruction manual closely when removing and reinstalling parts.

If you measure from the front and back of the blade to the rip fence, is there a consistent measurement, implying they are parallel to each other? If not, can you adjust the rip fence, so they align better?

Is the blade new?

Is the riving knife in place?

If you take the blade off and place it on a flat surface, is it perfectly flat? If you remove the blade and reinstall it, ensuring all the washers are in place, does the issue continue?

How quickly are you pushing material through the saw? Does the cut start out fine and then bog down further into the timber?

If you can answer these questions, I will happily assist further and make recommendations.

Also, allow me to tag @Nailbag who has a wealth of experience in the power tools industry. He may be able to assist with possible reasons for your issues that I may have missed

Jacob

Nailbag

Hi @Marsbar54

Unfortunately what you're experiencing is not that uncommon with DIY level table saws like Ozito and Ryobi. This is just one of several issues users face. They either return the product, or make allowances in some form or another. The other alternative is a lot more expensive as there is a big jump to the next level in retails price. Most users make allowances until they can justify the bigger spend.

The main causes are all due to poor tolerances in the manufacturing and or design of the fence, the slots and clamping of the fence and how sure the blade is to the table and to the fence. The first thing we need to establish is what and where your saw is causing the issue?

With the power disconnected:

1. Follow the tips @JacobZ has mentioned.

2. Wind the blade up fully and with the guard removed and the bevel on zero, check if the blade is square to the table using a solid square. If this is out either +/- then this needs to be rectified usually by any adjustment in the bevel handle needle to the degree scale. Note there is no adjustment for the blade itself.

3. With the rip fence clamped in any position to the top and lower table measurements, is the actual distance from the inside of the fence the same top and bottom to the edge of the saw table? Ignore if the measurements are matching they never do. You can easy compensate for that by using a tape measure for accuracy. Error in how parallel the fence is to the blade is the most common cause of the timber burning and/or jamming and possibly wanting to kick back. This is often caused by the fence moving off-square when the clamp is applied causing a wedge shape between it and the blade. The work around is to measure the top and bottom of the fence when clamped and essentially giving it a tap to line it parallel. I have a mate who has made his own fence up because the fence on his Ryobi one is so inaccurate when clamped.

4. This is a very rare but I have seen it many times scenario. Remove the blade and place it on a dead flat surface and check it's not warped. Table saws can easily be overworked and blades put under extreme pressures because the tool is fixed in place while large material is being pushed through it often off-line causing material burns and/or blade damage.

I can imagine what you're thinking, "why don't they just make these tools more accurate?" I can't share the behind the scenes answer, but it wouldn't make you feel any better anyway. It really just comes down to getting to know ow the pitfalls of your saw and making allowances. We are only talking a mm in the tolerances causing the problems. But this is the main difference between the price points as well as the ability to make fine adjustments as parts of the machine move out of alignment with use.

Mitre saws are also tools that come either off square or easily knocked off square during transits from job to job. But the difference there is that even DIY models are fully adjustable.

Hope this helps.

Nailbag

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