How to cut timber sleepers?

Diamondo50

Hi Guys,

Long time Bunnings customer - just found out about this forum - hope you can help.

I want to install railway sleepers to replace an outdated 440mm high retaining wall.

The sleepers I want to use are a weathered redgum: 1.3m x 240mm x 120mm.

At this stage, I need help with understanding how to cut them:

1. Cross- ways: The deepest saw I have is a 235mm, which I was surprised to find translates to only 80mm of cutting depth. Not deep enough to cut the 120mm in one pass. (Have a look at my historic Makita:)

Is it usual and workable to flip it, align the kerf and make a second cut? 

2. Edge-ways: I'd also like to cut them (for step material) length ways: ie to 'slice' the 120mm into two boards.

Not sure how to do this since that's 240mm - a very deep cut. Suggestions welcome here - maybe a joinery would do this?

Thanks!

JacobZ

Hi @Diamondo50,

A warm welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community and thank you for your questions.

For your crosscuts, you can use a square to mark all four sides of the sleeper, then make 1-2 passes with your circular saw, lowering the depth of cut on each pass. You can then flip the sleeper over and make another 1-2 passes to join the cuts. The only issue with this is that any variation in line or angle of cut will show up as a lip when the sleeper eventually splits.

Alternatively, you can make 1-2 passes with your circular saw, gradually getting deeper and then finish the cut from the same side with a handsaw. This will remove the potential for a lip if you ensure the saw blade is running flush with one side of the original cut.

For rip cuts, something of that size would usually be done with a sawmill. If there is a sawmill operating in your area, it might be worth giving them a call to see if they can help.

Alternatively, you could use the same method of cutting one side with your saw and flipping it over before cutting the other side to join the cuts, but at this length and depth of cut, it would put a huge amount of strain on your saw and the precision required would be tough to achieve. 

If you set yourself up with a rip guide and took it very slowly, you could manage, but I would suggest each side needs to be done in 2-3 passes. I would only attempt this method if you can't locate a sawmill that can help you with this project.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob