How to finish a concrete block retaining wall?

Retaining wall was put in, unfortunately not a lot of the cement blocks had a smooth finish. In fact, most were poorly made, leaving crevices and uneven surface (not the nice texture kind).

I am reluctant to paint over (which was the original plan before I saw the quality of these blocks) do to the severity of imperfections. If it was rough surface imperfections could get away with a nice rough textured painted wall. But sadly no.

So, I need advice on what I can do to provide a “finish” on this wall.

- Frame and decking could be costly, time consuming and ongoing maintenance.

- I’ve been told rendering won’t work it will just crack.

- Tiling would be expensive and too finicky and too neat.

Another option is to glue sheeting, but what glue and sheeting to hold up to weather and last?

if anyone can provide some advice or even YouTube video of a good option to finish this wall?

it is a property on bush, so a clean neat look isn’t exactly what I’m after - which is why I don’t like the tiling idea.

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Comments

Jewelleryrescue

Hi @Nelliy12

That wall looks nice and solid and should move or crack. Therefore, rendering the wall won't necessarily crack as there are more Polymere based renders that are more flexible these days. Just FYI

Using cement sheeting

There are several thicknesses you can buy I would use 4.5 too 6mm as a guide too keep costs down. Is probably you next best bet gluing sections of it to the wall I would use outdoor tile glue for a longer lasting job. Usually, you would use a plastic joiner between the sheets I would use fibreglass tape over the joins. I might use some tile glue over the tape (paintable) to create a smooth join and save you buying multiple products for the one job.

Also make capping panels and use the tape on the corners to hide any gaps.

By putting these sheets on the wall, you are basically putting on extra big, large format tiles when you think about it.

I would not rule out using nice outdoor tiles as they can be of various textures and looks and won't need painting. You can also get 600mm x 600mm tiles that might fit the wall height and use a trim bit under the uniform 600 square tile row buried into the ground line.

Food for thought.

Your the boss

EricL

Hello @Nelliy12

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your concrete block retaining wall.

It's great that you've received excellent suggestions from @Jewelleryrescue. In regards to render, I was wondering if you could do a partial finishing render to the very rough parts of the wall. This will bring the quality of finish a little bit better but still retain that rough exterior you're after. In regards to tiling I suggest having a look at this project - Crazy paving front porch by @EleventhCoastal. You can apply this chaotic tiling technique to the surface of your wall to give it a nice finish but not so neat and orderly.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49318#Comment_49318

Morning @Nelliy12

I would get a second opinion on rendering, I dont see why a render job wouldn't smooth that out and not crack, Even if you have some small ones it will be by far the easiest solution to make the wall look "one" 🙂

The far end of the wall closest to the road worries me a bit as the soil underneath the wall is exposed, this will defently cause it to drop as the soil falls away and then you will have cracks appearing. I would be putting something in to prevent rain washing that soil away before rendering or the sheeting that @Jewelleryrescue has mentioned.

Dave

Nelliy12

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/86739#Comment_86739

Thanks Dave, yes contractors only did a two stepped footing when really a third step should have been done.

Any suggestions on how I can fix this?

contractors didn’t come back to fix.

Nelliy12

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49308#Comment_49308

Thanks @Jewelleryrescue these are some really good suggestions! I will get planning!

I will be getting a second opinion on the rendering for sure.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108800#Comment_108800

Evening @Nelliy12

I think its called underpinning is what you need to do to the wall. In effect you need to give the underside of the wall end support of some kind.

So draw an imaginary line at each 1/4 after looking at your pics again of the soil thats exposed along the length. I would start out with the second from left hand quarter, dig that out and only that section out. Then square up the edges with formwork. Once that is done fill with concrete to the level of the foundation that is there now. I would probarly go down a hand span deeper then the edge of where the driveway touches so you wont end up with an issue in case of water etching the surface.

Then I would go for the far left hand end and repeat, then the right hand end and repeat. and then the last 1/4 My reasoning is less chance of cracking the wall while its suspended. I would wait for each section to cure before doing the next.

Dave

Jewelleryrescue

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121711#Comment_121711

Hi @Nelliy12

Re the wall is supported by the footing as long as they have good steel in there the wall will be supported. I didn't see the steel in the footing so I can't vouch for their work.

But as long as you have dirt under the footing NO erosion it will be there 100 plus years. So the quick fix is quickly re bury that exposed under footing to stop any erosion as it is hard to repack earth one it washes out.

If you wanted to have that section of wall exposed out of the ground, Ie extend the wall deeper it would be best to dig that dirt out 1x 400mm section at a time. Start at the end of the wall say 400mm span under dig it 400mm x 400mm Form it up with boards (behind, sides and the front will need to be higher with a lip to allow sloppy runny cement mix to flow in and under the footing.

Only other way is to remake that wall section.

When the first end 400x 400 footing is in place dig out the remaining footing extension 2 meters span only at a time and form and cement that in section. A big job and a gamble on the strength of the footings used.

To those of whom doubt this process Just know I have done this very recently on a brick wall and under mined its footing by 2 meters to extend the wall down to create a deeper wall and make a split level pond extention on to a newly laid slab made underneath.

Because of the extreme steel I use and cement footing thickness the wall and its footing was able to free float. While the slab was poured and a new wall support added.

Fun fact Did you know after 6 courses of regular bricks the wall becomes self-supporting For a span (how long a span I am not sure precisely)

For example all the multi story buildings used to be built of ordinary bricks imagine the weight on the bricks at the bottom of the walls for 6-story building ? Yet they have window openings all the way up. Ie Self supporting across a span therefore windows can be added. Ok they probably add steel to as a back up but what I say still holds true.

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