Can I use timber battens for wall framing for a cubby house?

Dear Workshop,

I am planning to build a cubby house for my daughter.

from the research I’ve done, typically the wall framing is built using a 70mm x 35mm treated pine.

i am concerned that if i use this size of timber, the walls will appear too thick (relative to the size of the cubby) and unnecessarily reduce the internal floor area.

I’m not wanting to build a large cubby. For reference, I have made a 1.8m x 1.5m base for it to sit on.

Could I build the wall framing using 42mm x 18mm pine? Or is this going into territory where stability / integrity will become an issue?

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Comments

TerryN

Hello Raymo,I used 70mmx45mm batterns on one I did for my grandkids a good while back,as that is what was laying around on our site.It is also close to the size that you are considering.1160mmx1250mm.I didn't put a tin roof on it though as it's under a pergola area and weather proof,although it wouldn't be hard to screw a couple of sheets onto it if needed.I just used some pine lining boards out of the skip bin to line the walls and ceilings.I used leftover treated pine decking boards for the door and floor (didn't take a snap of it as it has some off cut carpet on it.)Regards Terry.

JacobZ

Hi @Raymo16,

Thank you for your question about wall framing for a cubby house.

Unfortunately, you could not use 42x18mm to create any kind of supporting frame, especially if there was going to be a roof on it. Having handled thousands of lengths of 42x18, which is a profile used for timber trims, I can say from experience that they can and will snap quite easily.

The smallest profile of timber that can comfortably be used as the supporting frame for a structure is 70x35.

Yes, you would be losing 70mm of space on either side, but for the safety of your children and your own peace of mind, this is an unavoidable loss of space.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Raymo16

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49474#Comment_49474

Dear Terry,

Thanks for the information and photos!

Raymo16

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49479#Comment_49479

Dear @JacobZ,

Thanks for clarifying!

Would the 70x35 also be suitable for framing the roof?

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/86829#Comment_86829

Hi @Raymo16,

In house construction, you would usually use larger timbers, engineered timber products such as LVLs or prefabricated trusses for roof framing. In a smaller application like this, you can reduce the size, but 70x35 is still too small a timber to support a roof.

Manufacturers of corrugated iron sheets will call for 90x35 timbers at a minimum. I'd suggest you use 90x35 H3 framing pine for your roof.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Raymo16

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/108842#Comment_108842

Dear @JacobZ,

Thank you for this!

I'm sure i'll be back with some more questions as I try to figure out how to build this thing.

Raymo16

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121738#Comment_121738

Dear @JacobZ,

I was planning on building the base for the cubby using H4 treated pine sleepers, in the arrangement suggested by Mitchell from a previous post:

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/t5/Outdoor/Cubby-house-base-ideas/td-p/94618

Mitchell suggested 200 x 50 sleepers, which would result in a decent step up and not be ideal for our yard.

I would prefer something with a lower profile. Could I use 100 x 50 sleepers, and just add more members to make it sturdy enough?

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/129866#Comment_129866

Hi @Raymo16,

Yes, you can use 100x50mm sleepers as long as they are H4 treated.

If they are in direct contact with the ground, there is no real need for additional members as they will be directly supported by the ground along their full length. As long as they are spaced 450mm apart so your decking boards are well supported, then you will be fine.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Raymo16

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/134991#Comment_134991

Thank you @JacobZ!

The ground is not level, so I am planning on placing them on on pedestal feet: https://www.bunnings.com.au/builders-edge-35-60mm-smallfoot-pedestal-feet_p2450074

I am also trying to figure out if I needed to tie down / anchor the base. Fom the research i've done, a lot of people don't seem to worry about it, however i'd rather play it safe.

I initially thought that I could use a couple of sleeper pegs: https://www.bunnings.com.au/50mm-sleeper-peg-galvanised-steel_p1100763?store=7152&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAw5W-BhAhEiwApv4goO5HZ7qZeuoUSeVkXCKz-QW5zffdA_hcbT7IX4yYFZ6kDt6u1_FyXxoCv2sQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

But I now realise the top of the peg may affect the placement of the decking boards.

Any suggestions for anchoring the base?

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138377#Comment_138377

Hi @Raymo16,

If you are using pedestal feet, you would be better off using 90x45 H3 Framing Pine than 100x50 sleepers. This is because you would be building a low-level deck, and you'd have to follow the principles of deck-building to ensure you have a solid frame to support your shed.

Check out the following articles for some guidance on low-level deck building.

To attach the frame to the ground without fowling the decking boards, you can either cut a small rebate in the top of the timber frame so the hook sits below the top of the timber, or you can use a flat stake such as this Jack 450mm Heavy Duty Steel Sleeper Peg Flat Stake.

Let me know what you think, and if you'd like some guidance designing your frame, please don't hesitate to reach out.

Jacob

Raymo16

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140625#Comment_140625

Dear @JacobZ.

Thank you for this.

After going through the low-level deck building guidance, I think i'm better off dealing with the uneven ground so I can build the base using the H4 sleepers.

Thanks again for your help. I'm going to make a start and will check back in when I hit my next hurdle.

Raymo16

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142274#Comment_142274

Dear @JacobZ,

I pieced together the base frame over the weekend (picture below).

In preparing for the decking, I am wondering if i should:

A - Build the decking from edge to edge and fix the wall frames on top of the decking.
B - Build the decking with a 70mm clearance to each edge, so the wall frame can be fixed directly to the sleeper.

I initially thought that B would be the way to go so I wouldn't have to fix the frame through the decking, but now realise that if I don't go all the way to the edge then the decking will not be properly secured.

Some advice would be greatly appreciated.

Base Frame.jpg

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143450#Comment_143450

Hi @Raymo16,

The simplest and easiest thing to do is attach the decking boards and then fix the frame through it into the subfloor.

Use a 100mm Galvanised Batten Screw through each stud bay to ensure you get a good strong connection. Make sure you pre-drill holes to ensure nothing splits.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Raymo16

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144341#Comment_144341

Dear @JacobZ,

I have finished the wall framing and now trying to figure out the roof.

Am a bit stumped as to how to frame it it and fix it to the wall.

Below is a snip of what i'm aiming to replicate.

Any suggestions?

Cubby House Roof.png

MitchellMc

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144998#Comment_144998

Hi @Raymo16,

You might like to check out step six in How to build a pallet cubby. It shows how I cut the uprights for the walls at an angle, allowing me to attach the rafters at the required angle. This is a very simplistic approach that works well.

Alternatively, you could use a more traditional roof-building technique and cut birdmouths into the rafters. I've spent some time creating some renderings for you.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

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