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How to get Pine balustrade to match deck boards?

I have a new spotted gum deck and I love those boards however the posts and handrails have been completed in rough pine (the kind used for framing) I really want to get them to look as close to the boards as possible but the person who oiled my deck said to paint them as they would never sand smooth without a great deal of work and they will look painted rather than stained anyway

Can I ask how I might get them as close to the colour of the deck boards as possible I know they won’t have the grain that the lovely spotted gum

does or do I have to accept that I should paint them white or similar

deck boards and balustrade

What I would like to achieve

close up of handrail

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Comments

MitchellMc

Hi @PennyH,

That type of timber is called rougher-header, which is the grooves cut in it. You could have had it done in dressed timber, but that typically comes pre-primed, ready for paint and not bare for staining.

I don't think it would be incredibly difficult to sand the timber smooth. You could do it yourself over a couple of days with a sheet orbital sander. Start with 120-grit sandpaper and finish with 180 and 240 grit. A belt sander would remove the grooves quicker, but they can be a bit harder to control, and if you're not familiar with them, it's easy to take off too much material and damage the surface. For a tradesperson, it should only take half to a full day of work.

I'd disagree that the handrails will look painted after staining. Some stains are very pigment-heavy, almost like a paint, but they have that effect on any type of timber, not just treated pine. They're generally the water-based versions that sit on top of the timber. I'd suggest you go for something like Cabot's 4L Deck And Exterior Merbau Oil Based Timber Stain and ensure you do a test section before committing to the whole lot. I recommend you do that now in an inconspicuous location to ensure you're happy. If you can't find a suitable stain, it might not be worth going to the effort of painting.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

PennyH

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49790#Comment_49790

Thank you so much will go get some sample pots to try

PennyH

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/49790#Comment_49790

Hi there

I have purchased a sample pot of oil based stain however chose the Feast Watson as I felt the colour was closer.

Do I have to do anything to prepare the rough header? I have given up on the idea of sanding it smooth I may replace the top of the balustrade in the future with spotted gum.

Can I just put the stain straight on?

Thank you

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/87085#Comment_87085

Hi @PennyH,

Any contaminants that remain on the surface will affect the absorption of the stain, so at minimum, you should give the timber a good scrub.

You can use Cabot's Deck Clean and an Oates Long Handle Deck Scrub Brush to remove as much dirt and contaminants from the surface as possible.

Once cleaned, start with a small section, applying thin coats and working up to the colour you are looking for.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

PennyH

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/109007#Comment_109007

Thanks Jacob the pine has been down a week not sure if I should leave it a little longer to dry out but might do a sample spot at this stage

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/121822#Comment_121822

Hi @PennyH,

You should be fine to go ahead with the test section in a conspicuous location.

You could always grab a moisture metre to check the moisture content of the timber before proceeding with the rest of the staining. The ideal range is between 12-15%.

Let me know if you have any other questions, and keep us in the loop as you proceed.

Jacob

PennyH

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/129916#Comment_129916

Thanks Jacob

LAst question before I try the sample (promise) do I need to use a deck clean before staining the balustrade completely? The deck boards were treated with new timber prep, clean and then oiled but I am not sure if I need to do this for rough header pine

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135020#Comment_135020

Hi @PennyH,

With any painting or staining project, preparation work is essential. If you are not sanding them, then I would not skip this step.

Anything that sits on the surface of the timber can affect the evenness of absorption. Sanding will remove dirt and oils that will not seem obvious. If you are not sanding them, these contaminants will remain on the surface.

A quick scrub with a cleaning agent will ensure you get the best result possible in lieu of sanding. For a small amount of effort, it will give you a much better result.

Let me know how you get on.

Jacob

PennyH

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138395#Comment_138395

Thank you will do given its new can I use soapy water (as google suggests) or do I need a deck wash/cleaning product? I just don't want to use anything that will damage the spotted pine boards

Turns out I did have another question

JacobZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140638#Comment_140638

Hi @PennyH,

Questions are good, please don't hesitate to ask them.

Warm soapy water will be fine.

Jacob

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