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How to fix water leaking from newly renovated frameless shower door?

Hey guys,

Finger crossing that we have a solution for this.

I just got a professional to do my bathroom. The finishing is really good and today was the first day I had a shower (approx. 10 minutes) and found few things, which made me worry. He is coming tomorrow to have a look.

1. When I finished the shower, I saw a lot of water coming out of the frame and stagnant indicated on the green below.

Upon close inspection I saw that door is not completely shut on vertical part of the frame door ( he is coming tomorrow to inspect, hopefully fixable). The vertical movable part of the showerhas rubber along the vertical end. And, on the floor, there is a metal part (indicated in Red), which I think is not blocking the water.

To my understanding, the rubber part on the vertical edges and metal part on the floor should work to help the water fall inside the Shower Screen. Correct me if I am wrong.

2. Is this how frameless shower screen works ? Is there any solution to fix this and hoping he will have some solution too. It is not always possible to shower facing towards the wall or away from the shower door.

3. If the water is outside, shouldn't the water be flowing quickly through the outside drain like the drain inside the shower screen ? Should the outside drain be getting rid of the water splashed outside the bath or vanity ( for any reason). Isn't its purpose same as the drain inside the shower screen, quick drain.

Thanks a lot for reading and suggestions.

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Nailbag

Hi @Sugar

The glass will be sitting on translucent rubber mounts/spacers to lift it off the floor and to align it square against the wall. Silicone is then applied under the screen. Don't be too worried about the water leaking out as it's simply that the installer hasn't applied enough silicone under the shower glass. An easy mistake that will be fixed on his return.

Regards Nailbag

Sugar

Thank you @Nailbag for consolation. However, I am not sure if I am following you here. What do you mean by " translucent rubber mount"?

Could you please elaborate it, so that I can have a hint or something to talk about. Thanks.

Nailbag

Sorry I should have used the term spacers @Sugar

Depending on glass length, two or more small rubber mounts/spacers about the thickness of the glass and a few mm high which sit under it. The weight of the glass hold them in position. then the cap is filled with the translucent silicone which is what secures the glass to the floor. Some shower screen sit inside a channel which is fixed to the tiled floor. But yours appears to be glass to tile which is the cleaner method.

These images should help.

Nailbag

Screenshot 2025-03-19 at 7.13.20 am.png

Screenshot 2025-03-19 at 7.17.40 am.png

Sugar

@Nailbag

Extreme apologies for asking few questions here.

Following is my moving glass panel at the moment

Are you saying to apply more silicon on top of this metal bar ?

MitchellMc

Hi @Sugar,

If water migrates under the bar, it likely needs some silicone sealant on the inside edge to stop this; it's an easy fix. Sometimes, water runs down the door and manages to escape under it and the bar below. If this is the case, adding a shower seal to the door's lower edge helps the water drip off it and into the shower enclosure.

Regarding the drain outside. Its job is to collect large amounts of water and stop it from flowing into the rest of the house. Depending on the gradient of the floor, it likely won't collect a small amount of water. With semi-frameless showers, you'll often find that people use a bathmat or towel outside the door to help with water splashes outside the enclosure.

Please let us know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Nailbag

Hi @Sugar

So what you are saying is when the glass "Door" is closed water is escaping over the edge trim out of the shower . . . yes?

If thats the case, it appears there is no plastic trim under the door itself. Sliding one of these in and trimming to length should fix the problem. Not there are two types, one that rubs along the top of that metal strip and one that has an angled section that deflects the water within the shower.

Nailbag

Sugar

@Nailbag @MitchellMc

He came and put some silicon rubber ( I think he bought from Bunnings) and put on the vertical edge of another panel (where the door would shut) and the bottom edge of the moving door. It has stopped a lot of water going out. I am happier than before. I am going to see for another few days.

Looks like the silicon was forgotten to put or forgotton to be supplied by supplier. It has worked now.

Thank you for your advice.

I hope this solution can help others too.

Sugar

@Nailbag @MitchellMc

Also, I wanted to ask if Plumber has to supply any forms like Form 4 or like that once he has finished his job.

No taps or locations have been moved. They are there where they were before. Only the new items have been changed like bath, shower, taps, vanity. Howerver, the lcoation is still same.

Tiler has given me Form43, Aspect Certificate for the Water Proofing. Will that be enough ?

Thank you again.

MitchellMc

Hi @Sugar,

In Australia, plumbing requirements can vary by state, but generally, a compliance certificate or similar document is required when licensed plumbers complete work. Since no plumbing fixtures were relocated and only replacements were installed, the plumber may not need to provide a Form 4 (which is typically for major plumbing work in Queensland) or an equivalent form in other states. However, they should still provide a certificate of compliance if required by your local regulations.

The Form 43 Aspect Certificate for waterproofing confirms that the waterproofing work meets Australian Standards, which is important for compliance. If you’re unsure whether additional certification is needed, it’s best to check with your local plumbing authority or building regulator for your state.

Mitchell

Nailbag

Hi @Sugar

You will have to check with your local authority as per @MitchellMc comments. But I would expect that as there hasn't been any internal wall alterations to the plumbing and only an exchange of fittings that a compliance certificate is not required even at request. There usually is a fee for plumbing and electrical compliance certificates passed on by the plumber from the forms they submit.

Nailbag

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