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How to replace quarter turn plastic spleen from tap?

My showers cold handle fell off the other day (doesn't have a mixer tap). I popped it back on and tightened the grub screw, but the grub screw would keep going through the hole. I unscrewed the hot side's handle and noticed the plastic spleen on the spindle (only hoping I got the names correct) was pulled out a bit. So thats what I did on the cold side. Thankfully the grub screw now bites into the plastic cover of the spindle. But now it turns around without catching on to the underlying spindle. I am thinking I either need a new plastic cover or a longer grub screw. Bunnings website doesn't seem to have these plastic covers. Any ideas on how I could get the cold handle back on? A few photos:

The plastic spleen in questionGrub screwInside of the shower handle

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MitchellMc

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community @Burnings. It's great to have you join us, and many thanks for your question about attaching a tap handle.

Just trying to work out exactly what part is broken in your setup. So, it sounds like the grub screw is now biting into the plastic insert properly, which is good — but the issue is that the plastic insert itself isn't properly gripping onto the internal spindle. Do I have that right?

If so, it sounds like the plastic insert is the culprit here. Unfortunately, you're unlikely to find that plastic piece sold separately unless it's directly from the manufacturer of the tap set. They're generally a proprietary part, not something that’s sold off the shelf at Bunnings.

That leaves us with trying to get the insert to grip the spindle better. Have you had a chance to pull the plastic insert off and check if the inside is chewed up? If it is, and replacing it isn't an option, one not-so-great solution could be to apply a little silicone or even construction adhesive inside the insert before reinstalling it. It might give enough grip for it to work. The downside is that it'll make it pretty hard to remove later if you need to get back in to service the washers.

Alternatively, you could look at replacing the wall taps.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Burnings

Thank you for replying. I am leaning towards replacing the taps.

This is the inside of the plastic and the spindle if it helps:

I have now pulled the plastic spleen a bit further out and tightened the grub screw. As a result, when I turn the tap clockwise to open, it just randomly engages with the spindle and turns on the water. Same thing for turning the taps off.

I have never used quarter turn taps and the other issue I faced when the taps actually worked is when I turn on the hot and cold water taps in a 25:75 ratio, I never get warm water in the shower. As it is the water pressure was too low in the shower head. When I fully open the cold shower and a little bit of hot water, the end result is always cold. I think because of the pressure/amount of cold water, it "wins" the race. Just guessing the quarter of quarter taps gets a bit too much when wanting to have a room temperature shower, which is what I want. I will probably go ahead with replacing the taps - Anyway, is this just silicone around the tap bonnet holder? I can knife through it, but I dont think this is from a silicone tube (that is used for caulking around tiles).

Once I replace the taps, what would I need (kind of silicone?) to seal the space around the tap spindles? Is that even a good practice? It would be a night mare getting the tap spindles out in the future. Meanwhile is there a knob (like on the radios) that I could possibly use to turn the spindle? Any other stop gap ideas please?

EricL

Hello @Burnings

I believe the plumber just used a flat scraper to mould the silicone flat to seal it off and prevent water from travelling into the gap. Once you've replaced the wall taps, I suggest re-sealing the gap to make sure that water does not enter it. This will keep the interior wall safe from water damage. I understand that it seems like a lot of effort, but keeping your wall watertight is for the best. I suggest using Selleys 300g Off White Wet Area Waterproof Silicone Sealant.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Burnings

Thanks for that Eric. I am only able to look at this when I can, hence the gap in replying. So, I think I know what the problem is. I opened the hot waters tap, because it works perfectly, and see the spindle is a bit further out than the cold tap. Which is why the grub screw isn't pushing/latching on to the plastic spleen around the spindle teeth.

Hot: Cold

Then I took the silicone out to unscrew the bonnet extender. First thought was to replace the extender. But then I saw the extender itself was sawed out. Cold taps extender:

Then I tried to reduce the bonnet extender further and shaved a hair off of the extender, about one thread. Then I realised the real problem. The bonnet that sits on to this extender doesn't even thread on if the extender sits further ingressed to the wall. So, I think, who ever set this up actually sawed the bonnet extender, screwed the bonnet on to this extender, and siliconed it on to the spindle body, without ever screwing it on - end result, the tap bonnet sits flush with the wall, but that conceals the part of the spindle that the tap and grub screw latch on to. I think the solution is to get a spindle extender - just to get the spindle out by a mill or 2. Looking at existing threads that discuss this, it seems like whole another mountain to climb. But happy to do so if I am on the right track and if someone could lay out the steps for me?

Also noticed there is very little room for a tube spanner to unscrew the assembly out. Tried to do it with a shifter and the point end wont even go it. If I end up replacing, how do I unscrew this thing?

MitchellMc

This issue with spindle extenders are they typically bring the spindle out a significant distance, not just a few millimetres @Burnings.

To remove the spindles, you'd probably have to give a tap spanner a go, but even that might be a bit tight.

Mitchell

Burnings

I ended up calling a plumber and thought will post what was done. So this was where I was at. I bought a tap spanner set recommended here - as expected the spanner wouldn't even fit through the tight space. When the plumber came over, he got his multi grip and unscrewed 1 first and then 2.

I had already purchased another tap set (and a bonnet extender and a spindle extender) https://www.bunnings.com.au/mondella-maestro-brass-wall-top-assembly-lever-handle_p5004215?store=8182 - it was an easy enough installation and simply screwing in the new set was required.

I was just one step away from getting this done myself and felt so embarrassed that I thought a metallic tap wouldn't take the pressure of a multi grip - and then to further think even if I got the tap out, how would I screw the new one in - the plumber just did the above steps in a reverse order. Lesson learnt - tap bodies can take the pressure of a multi grip. And of course in my case the breach will always have one side protruding out more than the other - still wonder how the previous occupants didn't face this problem with the original tap.

EricL

Hello @Burnings

Thank you very much for the update, now that you've seen the plumber's technique replacing it in the future should no longer be a challenge.

If you need assistance with any other projects, please let us know.

Eric

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