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How to re-level and clean clay or brick pavers?

The pavers (not sure if brick or clay) under our patio are starting to become uneven in a few areas and several pavers have a white residue. I'd like to lift up the pavers to level the ground again and re-lay then give a pressure wash clean (unless its better to pressure wash first?).

What tools will I need to repair the uneven pavers (level, straight edge, tamper, sand)? Are there any tricks to remember the pattern so that I don't stuff it up?

I'm getting the impression that while I only intend to pull up a 1x1m area that will probably blow out as I notice adjacent pavers needing a little adjust too.

I'm not sure what the white marks on the pavers are from so if it can't be cleaned could I also just flip them over?

I was wondering if I pressure wash last will that undo some of the work when placing the tiles, and instead that could be a first step then a gentle wash last?

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Decking and Paving

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Comments

Dave-1

Good Afternoon @chickensoup64

I do like paving, its kind of like a big game of tetris 🙂

I would pressure wash the whole area before you start.

If you want to keep the same brick order then as you suggested and we stay with the 1square meter you mentioned, remove the pavers and place them in the same orientation next to the area you wantto work. (You could also take several photos to jigsaw it back if needed)

If there are several areas in that part you want to fix I would be tempted to do the lot as it will be a lot easier to redo in one go.

Tools I use when paving

Mallet

Large flat blade screwdriver
level

Hands 🙂

Tamp Bar for compressing areas before paving (As you are adjusting your paving it prob wont be needed)

Material

More sand.

01 25-02-2025.jpg

Tools I use for paving. And yes gloves are needed.

02 25-02-2025.jpg

Tamp bar for compacting the ground.

03 25-02-2025.jpg

When leveling the paver, I backfill the area with sand (I use gravel) so its a little higher then needed, then hammer the paver down so its level.

04 25-02-2025.jpg

Second step, you can see the paver is low one end, the next photo will be the other end

05 25-02-2025.jpg

The other end, you keep doing this and its not turn about, but something where you can see it go down. I found it best to lean on the low side of the paver as I hit the high side. It dosnt vibrate away then and seems to settle easier.

06 25-02-2025.jpg

Check afterwards that the paver is level and then work your way across.

I havnt put a project up as yet, the paving area im working on still has a little bit to do 🙂

One thing I will suggest, keep it staggered or straight lines or even a pattern of pavers is a fun exercise and change sthe whole look and feel.

Presure wash after you do it all as well.

The white pavers, are they painted? or is it a mould?

Dave

EricL

Hello @chickensoup64

That is an excellent guided answer from @Dave-1. I suggest following his recommendations and the tools he's suggested for the repairs.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

chickensoup64

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/52002#Comment_52002

@Dave-1 thanks heaps for the detailed response and the photos!

A few follow-ups:

1. Why gravel instead of sand underneath?

2. Is any sand ok or a particular type?

3. How long should the level be to ensure an even surface across a good size patio area?

4. Do I leave any gap between pavers when relaying? If yes, do I also need some sand/product to brush between these gaps?

5. Is any sealant recommended for pavers?

For the white bricks, they aren't painted and doesn't seem like a mould. A bit of searching around and I think it might actually be some sort of salts or minerals which have sweated out of the paver over time. I guess a plain pressure wash will see what can be done. Maybe I'll try a chemical cleaner if that doesn't work.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/88272#Comment_88272

Evening @chickensoup64

🙂 Lets go through your questions..

1. Why gravel instead of sand underneath?

1A - I had an excess of gravel and didnt want to spend money on sand. I used it for my side path and found that it really works well, has excellent drainage and dosnt sift away as easily as sand.

2. Is any sand ok or a particular type?

2A - There is a particular type of paving sand tho I have never used it @EricL will know for sure 🙂

3. How long should the level be to ensure an even surface across a good size patio area?

3A - well my level is around 1m or maybe 800mm long. If you stay level even with that then really it will be level all the way. Or you could use a flat edge (timber or metal, metal would be straighter) that is straight and rest the level on that. I kind of did that with that blue piece of timber you can see in some photos.

4. Do I leave any gap between pavers when relaying? If yes, do I also need some sand/product to brush between these gaps?

4A - Id suggest not, I have wiggly pavers (check out my other bookmarks and you will see the wiggly pavers in landscaping) I was using them outside scope and making bends in pathways so they ended up with a small gap, weeds tend to like those gaps, I could poison but really its a garden and I am happy with it doing its thing.

5. Is any sealant recommended for pavers?

5A - Id say not, I like that pavers are porus and will breath, I dont want them slippery at all and if I seal them that is what I figure may happen.

Extra question

Q6 - For the white bricks, they aren't painted and doesn't seem like a mould. A bit of searching around and I think it might actually be some sort of salts or minerals which have sweated out of the paver over time. I guess a plain pressure wash will see what can be done. Maybe I'll try a chemical cleaner if that doesn't work.

A6 - Its called Effervescence, salts rise through the ground and also the makeup of the bricks causing a salt like look. A pressure wash should clean it.