Child Item

How to install Beadboard verandah ceiling?

I am looking at installing bead boarding (V board) to the Verandah ceiling. I want to install it over the top of the existing ceiling however it is a steel framed house and the existing sheeting is screwed into the framing (screws are rusting). Will I need to first fit wooden battens to the ceiling so I can fix the bead board to the battens rather then screw them into the steel framing ?

Danny

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Building and Construction

Comments

MitchellMc

Hi @Danne,

On a standard wall installation, VJ panels are typically glued and screwed directly over existing plasterboard, going into the timber studs behind. While there are no specific guidelines for installing VJ board over a ceiling in a steel-framed home that I am aware of, the concept is largely the same — you can fix the boards directly over the existing ceiling sheeting as long as you're screwing into the steel framing.

You’ll just need to use appropriate steel self-drilling screws to get a good fix into the steel frame. Keep in mind that ceiling installations are subject to gravity, so a strong mechanical fix is more important than just relying on adhesive. If the existing ceiling is sound and you’re confident in hitting the frame behind, battens may not be necessary. But if there’s any doubt about the screw locations or you want a flatter finish, adding timber battens could give you more control and make installation easier.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Danne

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/52209#Comment_52209

Thanks Mitchell for the quick response.

What type of screws would I use with the VJ Panels?

Also, my added concern is the existing ceiling sheeting has been secured using Fine Drill Point Button Screws. These are the ones rusting. My concern is that the button does not sit flush and this may create some unevenness when laying the VJ Panelling straight over the top of them or would a bit of sealer added to the board fill that gap?

Danny

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/88269#Comment_88269

Hello @Danne

It might be necessary to remove the button screws along with the old ceiling covers. This will technically give you a clean start where nothing will interfere with the installation of your new VJ panels. I propose looking at the Zenith 8G x 20mm Galvanised Button Head Metal Screws - 100 Pack to hold the panels in place. I don't think adding a sealer will compensate for the button screws height.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Danne

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/109781#Comment_109781

Removing the button screws is what I'm trying to avoid as they are so badly rusted they will not screw out and there are a lot of it comes to cutting heads off.

Danny

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122237#Comment_122237

Hello @Danne

If the screws are very badly rusted, I'm afraid your only choice is to grind the heads off with a grinder. It all depends on how you wish to proceed, if you want to avoid removing the old ceiling sheets the screw heads will need to be grinded down and new screws installed into the existing ceiling sheets. You can then place the VJ panels over the existing ceiling sheets without having to worry about the old, rusted button heads. If you do it in this manner my only other suggestion is to get a longer screw at least 60mm in length.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Danne

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/130218#Comment_130218

Thank you, I might have to go with the grinding option.

Danny

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135200#Comment_135200

Hi @Danne

Please keep us updated with your progress, we look forward to seeing the VJ panels installed.

Eric

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138518#Comment_138518

Good Evening @Danne

I would vote to remove the screwheads even tho it will be a fair amount of work. Having a very levek surface is the best chance of having the ceiling look right. Please note a lot of ceilings are not all level, they "look" it because they are white and they dont really sit in our plane of the eye like a wall does. With VJ panneling on the ceiling you are giving straight lines for the eyes to follow, I like the idea but have concerns about how straight and level it will look.

You still want to keep the 2.4m standard height of a room so I am not sure if batterns on top of the existing ceiling is a wise move.

Dave

Danne

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140722#Comment_140722

Thanks Dave, good points.

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/109781#Comment_109781

Hi @Danne

From someone who has done this task recently, I can guarantee your up for a very challenging task.

For starters you have to be dead accurate in lining up all the supporting timbers battens you're fixing to. The joins for each panel must be centre of each timber in order to secure adjoining panels. This is of course 100% reliant that the battens are all square to the ceiling and dead flat. If they run out, then you will need to double them up. Investing in a laser level or at least hiring one will put you at an advantage I didn't have at the time. But I did have the advantage of exposed beams and access to make modifications as required. We wanted to achieve a clean look, so no screws, but a lot of liquid nails and brad-nailed every 200mm.

The two biggest challenges and one that @MitchellMc mentioned I didn't factor in was gravity! VJ Panels are VERY heavy overhead. The second, is trying to line each one up squarely side by-side and then end to end. Remember they are not butt joined on their sides, they have over-lapping grooves that need to align perfectly. So you can't fix to close to the edges until each side slots into place, but then that means your supporting more weight for longer. Then it got complicated when I had posts to make cut out for and then try and inset panels within a close margin. And as @Dave-1 mentioned the lines have to be perfectly straight across every panel or it will be a disaster.

And all this with just two people and a modified Acro-Prop. So, definitely drag in two more mates which will make a huge difference. Two to lift, one to position/guide and the 4th to fasten.

Regards Nailbag

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122240#Comment_122240

Morning @Nailbag

Nice work as usual 🙂

Dave

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/130224#Comment_130224

Thanks @Dave-1. That was the first and definitely the last time I put my hand up to do that again. One of the most challenging jobs.

Nailbag

Child Item