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How to mount a networking cabinet?

Hi all,

I am wanting to mount a communications cabinet in one of my cupboards to put my networking gear. Currently it's on top of a shelf but it's causing the shelf to droop.

I've found two studs in the wall (one in the centre, and one right on the corner of the plaster) but the stud spacing is too wide for the mounting holes on the communications cabinet (https://www.selby.com.au/brands/raxx/8u-wall-cabinet-530-450.html). Based on this, I assume my best option is to somehow span the gap between the two studs with another material and then mount the cabinet to that. But I'm not sure the best way to do it! Can someone suggest the best material to attach to the two studs? I've seen people suggesting plywood and also pine. Furthermore, can anyone recommend the best screws to use to attach to the other material to the studs?

Thanks in advance!

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EricL

Hello @Joshuam08

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about your comms cabinet.

I propose using 90 x 35mm Framing MGP10 Untreated Pine 2.7m or similar. I recommend using Titan 14g x 100mm Zinc Gold Timber Bugle Batten Screw - 25 Pack. My best advice is to drill pilot holes in both the 90 x 35 and the stud, this will prevent the timber from splitting. To mount the cabinet, I suggest using Bremick XTP 14g x 50mm T40 B8 Bugle Batten - 25 Pack. Please note that if the cabinet contents weight exceeds 20kg it will be necessary to install two Carinya 400 x 350mm Black Straight Stayed Bracket underneath the cabinet to prevent it from shearing and warping. You'll need to use the 90x35 as mounting for the angle brackets as well.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Joshuam08

Thank you for the helpful answer! In terms of the bracket underneath, is that for the benefit of the wall or the cabinet itself? I’m just wondering if the load capacity of the cabinet is 60kg, does that mean the support underneath isn’t required as the cabinet will handle the weight (as long as the fixings don’t fail)?

or does the stud struggle to handle more than 20kg?

Joshuam08

I’m also unsure if the batten screw for the cabinet will be sufficient for the mounting holes on the cabinet, can they be used with a large washer or will that not work?

EricL

Hello @Joshuam08

Imagine a 20kg bag of cement mounted on your timber wall, if you multiply it three times you can imagine the amount of weight the stud wall has to hold. All of this weight being held in place by only four screws. As I mentioned in my last post if the weight goes past 20kg it would be prudent to provide extra support. The angle bracket supports both the cabinet and stud wall. I suggest using washers to prevent the cabinet from pulling out.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Joshuam08

I read your original message as if the cabinet + contents weight is more than 20kg. If it's just contents, the contents will likely only be 8kg so should be no problem. Thanks for the help!

Joshuam08

Forgot to ask, do you suggest only one screw per side of the mgp10 or should each spanning piece have 2 screws per side (one in each corner)?

Joshuam08

All sorted. Thank you!

MitchellMc

Nice one @Joshuam08! That looks very secure.

Great job and many thanks for the update.

Mitchell

Joshuam08

So I managed to put the cabinet up today but noticed it was drooping at the front. Initially thought the unit was just a bit flimsy but realised the wood itself attached to isn’t even (the top rail protrudes more than the bottom). I’m unsure if the wall was level prior to starting this little project (wish I checked!), but is there anything I could’ve messed up here? Should I try drive the screws in the top wood in a bit more, in case I somehow did the bottom rail a bit tighter?

or is the most likely explanation just that the wall wasn’t level and not much I can do? If thats the case I’m considering sticking some packers behind the bottom of the cabinet to try prop it up a bit?

MitchellMc

Hi @Joshuam08,

My only real concern here would be if the top screws on your timber bridging piece actually missed the studs and the weight of the cabinet is pulling the gyprock away from the wall. If that’s the case, you'd want to fix that immediately. Typically, studs should be running straight up the wall, so it’s a bit surprising if there’s that much of an angle difference.

But if you’ve confirmed that your bridging timber is securely fixed to the studs—especially at the top—then it’s likely just an uneven wall surface causing the tilt. In that case, packing out the bottom of the cabinet with some shims or packers is a perfectly reasonable way to compensate and get it sitting level.

Mitchell

Joshuam08

I tested the bridging pieces prior to mounting the cabinet by almost doing a pull up on them and they didn’t budge so I’m pretty confident they are in the stud… I assume if I missed the stud they would’ve come down with me hanging on then!

I have been keeping track of the droop though and the droop hasn’t got any worse since mounting the cabinet so I also interpret that to mean it’s solid. The actual plaster directly next to the bridging timber measures about 8mm/m out which is less than the difference between the bridging timber so I’m not sure exactly what’s happened but obviously the only way to know for sure is to probably take it all down and check the wall but I assume I wouldn’t be able to reuse the same holes in the stud so would need to move them?

MitchellMc

No, you'd be fine using the same holes @Joshuam08. If you tested the bridging pieces and they are solid, I'd just pack out the bottom of the cabinet.

Mitchell

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