How to convert study to bedroom?

sum1989

Hi, 

I want to convert this open space study into a bedroom. 

Size of the opening: 2.11m(h) x2.43m(w)

I am thinking closing this off with a gyprock wall and a sliding door. 

Had a few questions:

1. What sliding door would be best ? the room light switch is on the right side next to the cabinet and I don't want to touch electricals.  So thinking of sliding the door right to left. Hope that is fine? 

2. With the proposed sliding door going into the proposed zyprock wall, what  would be the best way to minimize sound going into the room from living room? Is it possible to fit insulation in there?

3. For the top and sides, is it better to add studs and nail them directly on top of existing gyprock layer or is it better to take out the gyprock layer to expose the studs?

4. For the bottom I intent to just glue the stud to the tile in case I decide to change it back to study i.e. not damaing the tiles. Which glue should I use?  

Which zyprock, stud, insulation and door lock would best fit this scenario? Would appreciate some list of products.

Thanks. 

MitchellMc

Hi @sum1989,

Converting your open study into a bedroom is a great idea and quite achievable with your plan to install a Gyprock wall and sliding door. 

Since your light switch is on the right side near the cabinet and you'd prefer not to touch the electricals, having the door slide from right to left makes perfect sense. A cavity sliding door system would be an ideal choice here, as it allows the door to slide neatly into the wall cavity, keeping the entryway clear and space-efficient. Just make sure the new wall framing accommodates the door system correctly. 

For soundproofing, you can definitely install acoustic insulation inside the new stud wall. Using a product like Soundshield batts will significantly reduce the amount of noise travelling between the new bedroom and the adjoining living space. Make sure to fully pack the cavity between all studs with the insulation.

When it comes to securing the top plate of your new wall, if there’s timber above the existing Gyprock, you can locate the ceiling joists using a stud finder and screw the top plate through the Gyprock into them without needing to remove the plasterboard. This approach is usually simpler and avoids unnecessary damage. However, if there’s a steel lintel overhead (common in wider openings), you’ll need to pre-drill and use the appropriate fixings for metal. The same goes for attaching the wall to the existing side walls—use a stud finder to locate the framing behind the plasterboard and screw into those for a secure hold.

Fixing the bottom plate is trickier if you’re aiming to avoid damaging the tiled floor. Unfortunately, there’s no adhesive that’s strong enough to semi-permanently hold the wall in place and can also be cleanly removed later. If you’re set on preserving the tiles, a workaround would be to build the wall over the carpet, then screw the bottom plate into the timber subfloor, if there is one. Alternatively, you could use a low-profile concrete screw or plug system and accept that there may be a few small holes to patch later if you remove the wall.

For the wall construction, use 90mm timber studs, standard Gyprock sheets (typically 10mm thick), and insulation batts designed for sound reduction. For the door lock, a cavity sliding door privacy set or passage set with a flush pull is suitable, depending on whether you want the door to lock or just close. 

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell