Child Item

How to add drainage to side of house?

I’m looking for a DIY solution to improve drainage on the side of my house.

My house faces east, and on the north side, there’s a narrow pathway about 1 metre wide. One side is my house wall (the right side in the photo), and the other is my neighbour’s retaining wall. The first photo doesn’t show it, but there’s a slight slope from the front of my house to the back, so the point of view is low.

The garden has been neglected for a while, and weeds have started to grow in the sidewalk. There are also some loose pavers on top of it. The ground seems to be fine gravel (10-20mm).

During heavy rainfall, the water runs down the side of my wall. I dug a trench as a temporary solution, but it just let the rainwater and soil into the swimming pool area, so it wasn’t a real fix.

I’m looking for a DIY solution that I can do myself and that will solve the issue.

I don’t have a stormwater diagram, but there seems to be a pit under the swimming pool sign in the last photo.

Also, there’s a huge gum tree root cut to ground level in photo 3 where the flower pots are, which makes it tricky to adjust the level around there.

Screenshot 2025-06-04 at 10.40.06 pm.png Screenshot 2025-06-04 at 10.39.52 pm.png

Find more posts tagged with

Tools and Materials

Repairing

Plumbing

Landscaping

Comments

EricL

Hello @Vincero1

Welcome to the Bunnings Workshop community. It's sensational to have you join us, and thanks for sharing your question about the drainage on the side of your house.

Your idea of digging a channel is actually a good idea, but you've only put in half of the solution. I suggest digging out the channel even deeper so that you can instal an Everhard 3m EasyDRAIN Polymer Grate And Prejoined Channel. I propose creating a small concrete lip on the side of the house so that any water coming down the wall will be directed to the Easydrain. However, because the drain needs to be linked to your storm water drain it will be necessary to engage the services of a plumber for safety and compliance.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you have any other questions we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Nailbag

I agree with @EricL solution @Vincero1 Since the make shift drain is working, that tells you that a permanent one should also do the job. You will need a licence plumber however to connect it to the stormwater system.

Nailbag

Vincero1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/53051#Comment_53051

Hi @EricL and @Nailbag,

Thanks for your advice. It seems the recommendation is to install a channel drain near the house and a concrete lip.

I’m a bit overwhelmed, but I also want to build a paver and gravel path. Can I install a French drain instead of a channel drain for aesthetic reasons?

My idea is a paver and gravel path with a French drain underneath. I think the steps are:

1. Remove 50mm from the top

Screenshot 2025-06-05 at 9.24.32 pm.png

5. Lay weed mat.

6. Lay gravel and pavers.

Does that sound right?

Also, I’m not sure about the thickness of each layer or if some layers are even required (like the weed mat).

Any suggestions?

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/88713#Comment_88713

Hi @Vincero1

Yes a French drain would also work. and these are the basic steps:

Recommended dimensions:

Width: 150–300 mm
Depth: 450
Slope: At least 2-3% fall to direct water flow.

Start with a base-layer by lining your trench with geotextile fabric, leaving enough to fold over the top later. This prevents soil from clogging the drain. Then place 100 mm of coarse gravel or scoria at the bottom for filtration and drainage. Use 100mm ag-pipe, preferably with a sock (fabric sleeve) to prevent clogging. Lay the pipe with holes facing down and ensure it follows the slope. The end will need to be connected to storm water by a plumber. Then add more gravel until it's about 50–100 mm from the top of the trench and fold the excess geotextile fabric over the gravel. Then backfill with the paving surround stones.

Nailbag

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/88713#Comment_88713

Hi @Vincero1

Just a friendly reminder that the French drain needs to be at least 300mm to 600mm away from your wall. This buffer helps reduce the risk of water seeping back toward the structure and allows space for proper drainage installation, maintenance, and backfilling without undermining the footing or compacted soil near the base of the wall.

If you're dealing with significant water runoff or a high water table, placing the drain even 900mm to 1200mm away can be safer, especially for older homes or where the wall footing is shallow. Always ensure the drain slopes away from the structure so water is directed toward a suitable discharge point.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110063#Comment_110063

Good morning @Vincero1

Drainage can be a pain until you have it sorted 🙂 You are on the wayto having it sorted! As @EricL has suggested a deeper trench plus the Everhard drainage channel is a brilliant idea, I like it as its easy to clear any debris out, easy to see it working and it can carry substantial water. I can see a down pipe in the corner of your patio so there is a stormwater pipe somewhere close (fair chance your trench goe sright over it)

I wuld hit up a plumber to find out the best point to head your drainage to and also a costing of the connection. (legal obligation)

Once you have that point then you can start with either a grill drain, a dish drain or a french drain. I prefer something that i can see without an issue but a French drain will be hidden more then others.

Stormwater rectification stage 1

Side path rebuild from recyled pavers

The reason i have put both parts of the stormwater repair up is the gravel i used to surround the stormwater pipe and also the gravel I used under the pavers actually carry excess water away as well. It gives a free drainage path under the pavers as there is a resonable slope. You could potentially do the same type of deal depending on how much water you get in the area.

Sketch out your yard, include hard items such as trees and walls, plus dirt slopes, Mark on it in red the stormwater pipes (downpipes) as circles. Then grab a blue or green highlighter and draw flowlines that you know and where they end up. Very quickly you will see how much water ends up at funnel points (Im sure you already know) but it really helps in figuring out parts you need to deal with more so.

Dave

Child Item