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How to build a shower base?

Hello again

i posted a question regarding framing the other week and recieved some great help, thank you. now i am measuring and locating where the new wall will go and i see the recess in the concrete overlaps the location for the new frame about 40mm. also the recess for the shower is very rough and not square, it is just over 1000 long and wide with rough edges and varies in depth 70 - 90 mm deep.

obviously i need to reshape and fill this "whole" can you suggest how ? should i build a square box and center is and fill the outside with grout or concrete or something else? and what about the base or floor area, surley that will require rendering with something

here are some pictures, i hope you can help oh ftu the copper pipes will go and i will re blumb with PEX. thank you

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JacobZ

Hi @Sedg,

It's good to see you are moving on to the next stage of your project.

The easiest way to refinish the sides of the recess would be to build a formwork in the shape of what will eventually be your finished recess and pack Lanko 702 Durabed Structural Grout into the space around this formwork.

Make sure you give the concrete edge a good clean to remove any concrete dust before pouring. You could also drive some masonry screws into the wall of the current recess before adding your grout, to help hold the new grout to the old surface.

Assuming the existing recess is not currently sloped towards the drain, then there is no real need to do anything to smooth and level the surface prior to waterproofing as fall will need to be created using screed, which will fill in the depressions in the floor.

Allow me to tag @Nailbag and @Dave-1 to see what they think and if they have any insights to offer.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

Nailbag

Hi @Sedg

I don't think I can add anything to the excellent advice already provided by @JacobZ . Looks like your doing a terrific job BTW, very neat!

Nailbag

Dave-1

Good Evening @Sedg

@Nailbag took the words out of my mouth, nice tidy work, it makes it much easier to do things 🙂 And yep @JacobZ has pretty much done the same thing with the way he would procede 🙂 I like the idea of some masonary screws to give it a good attachment.

Dave

Sedg

Thanks JacobZ

i sort of thought that would be the case other wise it would be impossible to tile. I thought a 900x 900 box then fill in between the box and the old edge The base area is rough , will the screed take care of that or should i use the structural grout as a flat base ?

Sedg

Thanks Nailbag

jest Jacob seems to have covered all areas, i just asked him about the floor area of the existing shower base, it is very rough and i was wondering if screed would do the job or should i lay a base with the grout ?

JacobZ

Hi @Sedg,

I don't see any reason you'd need to tidy up the bottom as long as screed was being put over the top.

Once screed goes down and tiles go on, then you're never going to know it is there.

Jacob

Sedg

Great

thanks , ok I’ve got some jobs to do

ill keep you posted

cheers

Sedg

Hi Again

things are moving along, im sheeting interior now however match old and new board and old and new farmwork, im getting some gaps, see pictures,

I've looked on line but there are so many suggestions Sikaflex oe one of several types of a fill-Crete,

i would appreciate your advice again

thank you

steve

what do you suggest?

JacobZ

Hi @Sedg,

Nice work so far, it is coming along nicely.

To cover these gaps, you'll want to use mesh tape and James Hardie Compound Base Coat.

Apply the tape over the joins, then encapsulate the tape with the base coat, using a joint knife to apply it.

This is a suitable fix before waterproofing and tiling.

Let me know what you think.

Jacob

Sedg

Thanks Jacob

i can move forward, thanks for the quick reply

i will keep you posted

regards

Sedg

Hi Jacob

im checking application videos on line and there seems to be conflict

do i put the tape on first then mix compound base coat and apply it ? or do i fill the gap first, then tape than do a final coat with the basecoat ?

a lot of these vidoes are from th US and of course they use different compounds

let me know what you suggest

thanks again

regards

steve

EricL

Hello @Sedg

Yes, the correct sequence for James Hardie cladding finishing is to apply a base coat, then embed the tape, and finally apply another layer of base coat over the embedded tape.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Sedg

Thanks Again

it seems non of the Bunning outlets on the gold coast carries James Hardies base coat any more, the guys in the store recommended Gyprock wet area base coat. will this suffice >

thanks

steve

JacobZ

Hi @Sedg,

Yes, the Gyprock CSR Wet Area Base Coat is also suitable.

Jacob

Sedg

Great, Thanks again

regards'

Steve

Sedg

Hi again

thanks for your help, my next question regarding the shower base, as you see it requires screeding and water proof

which is first ?

thanks again

i have a price from a local tiler who can screed and tile for 3300$

JacobZ

Hi @Sedg,

According to the National Construction Code Part 10.2 Wet area waterproofing, specifically Part 10.2.21 Membrane installation for screed -

"Where a screed is used in conjunction with a waterproof membrane, the waterproof membrane can be installed either above or below the tile bed or screed."

Essentially, your waterproofing membrane can be applied either above or below the screed, or both if you want that extra peace of mind.

Let me know if you have any further questions.

Jacob

Sedg

Hi Jacob

as you have been a great help to me I thought i would brief you on my progress

attached are picture before , during and now

I did bring in a professional tiler to do the water proofing and tiles, everything else i did alone

note we waterproofed below and about the screeding. more tiling to go, the laundry and toilet have also been prepared for sealing and tiling

i will use shark bite plumping for the shower, ive install new breech and tap assemblies.

thanks again for your help, i will show you the finished article soon

regards

Steve

IMG_1341 (1).jpg

EricL

Hello @Sedg

Thank you very much for sharing those photos of your bathroom renovation. Its looking good and your making great progress.

We look forward to seeing the bathroom when its totally finished.

Eric

Sedg

Thanks Eric

im almost finished, Tiling completed and shower screen installed

i am just completing painting however on one wall in one area i could not get the paint to adhere, even after sanding.

i sanded the wall back to the villa board and put a light coat of plaster but again its cracking

do you have any suggestions?cracking plaster in one area

MitchellMc

Hi @Sedg,

That looks more like an issue with the plaster rather than the paint itself. What was the surface like before you painted? It’s possible the plaster wasn’t fully dry, which can lead to cracking and poor adhesion. The cracking you’re seeing suggests the base isn’t stable, so you’ll likely need to sand back the affected area, removing both the paint and any loose plaster. Once back to a solid surface, apply a thin skim coat of plaster and allow it to dry thoroughly before sanding smooth. It’s always best to apply an undercoat over bare plaster before applying your topcoat to ensure proper adhesion.

Please let me know if you have any questions.

Mitchell

Sedg

Thanks Mitchel

i took it back to bare villaboard and left it a couple of days to ensure there was no moisture

i think the layer of plaster i used may be too thick

im using Gyprok wet area base coat. i have not had any other issues with this product

ill remove all of it an try again

keep you posted

regards

MitchellMc

For thicker areas, it's always best to do several thinner coats rather than one thick one @Sedg. I wouldn't apply more than 3mm in one coat.

Mitchell

Sedg

Hi Guys

i had previously sanded back to bare villa board, previous to the cracking

yesterday i peeled off the plaster and cut out an replaced the section of board, about 600 x 400

then i started again with a very light plaster, so far it looks ok, i will sand and do another light coat

it was either something in the board itself or plaster was too thick so i have eliminated both

keep you posted

regards

Steve

MitchellMc

Sounds like a great approach, @Sedg.

Mitchell

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