How to repair loose blind mount wall anchor?

Hi @audzzz,

It definitely looks like the anchors that were installed are struggling to hold on. Without removing them, it is hard to tell, but it looks like they've used a type of anchor that is not particularly suited to plasterboard.

My suggestion is to remove the screws and then pull the anchors out to assess the strength of the plasterboard behind the bracket.

If it is in fair condition, you should replace the anchors with these Ramset M5 x 9mm Plasterboard Hollow Wall Anchors. They are designed so they can be inserted into the hole in one straight line before expanding out like a split pin when the screw is rotated. This expansion pulls on the back of the plasterboard and offers a stronger anchor than the expansion style anchors that appear to have been used.

If you remove the screws and find that the plasterboard is fractured and is likely unable to support an anchor, you would have to cut out a section of plasterboard, backblock it with some timber, then reinstall a patch. By installing the back blocking, you would be able to simply screw through the plasterboard into this timber.

Have a look at How To Repair A Large Hole In Plasterboard for an example of this. In your situation, you would also add a piece of timber across the centre of the hole so you can screw the blind bracket into it.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

Hi Jacob,

Thank you so much for your detailed steps.

Will have to remove it to have a look. If the surrounding of the hole does not have any fractures, is it safe to say I can use the hollow wall anchor? What happens if the hole on the wall is larger than the anchor? How should I “mend” the hole after I installed it?

Hi @audzzz,

If the plasterboard is strong, then you should be fine to use the hollow wall anchor. You'll mainly want to confirm whether the plaster between the two holes is in sound condition, as this is the likely location of fractures.

Unfortunately, if the hole in the wall is considerably larger than the anchor, then you could either move the blinds up or down and create new holes, or install a new piece of plasterboard and conduct the repair as if the plasterboard was fractured. I am not aware of a filler product that you can use to mend the hole that will be strong enough to support a plaster anchor.

Let me know if you have further questions.

Jacob

Hi Jacob,

thank you so much for that. I went in store to buy the hollow anchor but it is smaller than the hole on the wall (about 26mm). Do you know if there is any anchor larger for this hole, otherwise could you recommend me the materials I would need to repair it?

It is not very clear in the video provided, I am not very sure what type of timber, screws and the filler to use. How large should I cut the plasterboard to replace with a new board?

thank you so much for all your help and sorry if I sound dumb

Hello @audzzz

It's perfectly ok to ask these questions, please don't feel bad that you are not familiar with the steps that have been shown to you. I suggest using the following materials:

42 x 19mm 1.2m DAR Pine Standard (unless you have something similar in your shed)
Gyprock CSR 530 x 530 x 10mm Mini Plaster Repair Panel (this is the smallest repair panel we have at the store)
Zenith 8G x 28mm Gold Passivated Countersunk Rib Head Chipboard Screws
CSR 420gm Gyprock DIY One Patch Filler

You'll need to cut a hole that is at least 80mm tall x 50mm wide. You'll need to cut the pine timber at least 140mm in length. Tie a string around the pine timber piece tightly so that you can slide it into the hole and keep it in center position. You'll need a drill to install the screw onto the timber piece (refer to the repair video to see how its done). Once the screw has anchored the timber piece to the plasterboard wall you can now cut a patch from the repair panel at the same size which is 80mmx50mm. Screw the repair piece in place using a single screw in the middle.

Follow the rest of the repair video to finish the repair. The reason I only asked you to place a single screw in the repair piece is because there must be enough space for the screws of the roller blind to pass through. With this timber type repair you will no longer need to use anchors, you can screw straight through the plaster and into the pine timber piece you placed behind the wall.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Hi Eric,

thank you so much for your reply. We were just wondering for the larger hole, will there be any spring toggle that is big enough for it or is this an option we can go with? Otherwise I will definitely have to invest and do the repairs accordingly.

thank you so much.

Hi @audzzz

No anchor will be able to hold on properly to the walls current condition. I'm afraid the damage is too big, and the hole must be properly patched.

Eric

Hi Eric,

Got that. We will repair accordingly. I am wondering would it also work if we swap the dimensions so it is 50mm tall and 80mm wide? The reason is I am not sure whether there are stud or any metal around the edge between ceiling and wall, afraid the timber will not fit in vertically. I have measured seems like it may fit the dimension, but would like your thoughts.

Hi @audzzz

Thank you very much for sharing those pictures. Yes, you can cut it in the other direction if it is more in line with your repair conditions.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Hi @EricL,

I went in store and purchased everything recommended and also a fiberglass tape.

We did met with several challenges.

1. while cutting the damaged wall, we discovered there is a stud on the right side of the holes. Therefore we had to shift our incision towards as much as we can on the left, leaving as much space we have for the backing wood.

2. Initially using the method of tying a string in the middle, when securing the backing wood, the resistance is quite strong so we couldn’t get the screw into the backing wood. We also have very narrow width and cannot grab onto the wood while drilling. We then had to drill a few screws on the wood, a temporary that is in the middle that I took off after secured to call, and another at the top left corner, opposite side of the wood so we can tie the string better(this just stayed at the back of the wood) . This provided us more resistance when we drill through the wall into the backing wood

3. I then took the blind mount and measured the distance so I can attach the screw of plasterboard to the backing wood. I think maybe because I did not drill the screw in the middle, therefore it was slightly uneven at the top of the plasterboard. Hopefully it will not cause issues when we install the blind mount.

4. Next step is to seal up the plasterboard, I used the fiberglass tape as per video and applied compound. I am not sure how thick to apply, so I just put enough to cover the tape.

Can I check what is the next steps?

- I intend to let it dry out for 2 days, perhaps Saturday will sand it.

- How do I determine whether I need to apply the compound again?

- after sanding, do I pre-drill the blind mount, then paint then install? Or do I paint first, then pre-drill then install?

- there are a few screws that were inserted securing for the backing wood, they look very ugly and how can I cover them up? Do I also use the compound to go over them, sand it and paint? Unfortunately I tried to drill further in, but it is the maximum it can go.

- for painting, do I need a primer?( if I need one, can you recommend me please)

- I took a small sample of the wall during cutting, will that be sufficient to match my wall color?

thanks so much for your detailed steps and apologies if I asked too much questions!!

Hi @audzzz,

Great work, you've done a fantastic job so far.

Depending on the plaster you've used, they will usually be dry and ready for sanding after 1 hour, but waiting 2 hours, where possible, is worthwhile. 2 days drying time is more than enough.

The compound you have applied looks good. The main thing you are looking to do is fully encapsulate the tape, so it does not show through the compound. If you give it a sand and can't get it smooth without exposing the tape, then a quick skim coat, then resanding it will be worthwhile.

The screws on the left need to be driven in a bit more. Check out How to install plasterboard. At 2:04, you can see a screw that is sitting perfectly. The head needs to slightly purse the paper on the plasterboard so that it sits ever so slightly below the surface of the plasterboard. It is easiest to do this with a phillips head screwdriver, as you will have more control. You should be able to drive them deeper into the timber. Once they are sitting below the surface of the plasterboard, give them a quick coat of plaster to cover them and give it a sand.

Yes, when there is bare plaster, it is best to use a primer. This Dulux 1Step Prep Primer, Sealer & Undercoat will be fine.

As long as the plasterboard you have kept is larger than a 50-cent piece, this will be fine to colour match.

You should pre-drill your holes after painting. Any minor imperfections around the pilot holes will be covered by the brackets anyway, so there's no need to overthink this step.

I hope this answers all your questions, but please reach out if you need further clarification.

Jacob

Hi @EricL & @JacobZ

Thank you so much for all the instructions and I have managed to repair the area and painted it with very minimal paint contrast. The whole process was quite intimidating but I think this gave me more confident for other small repairs in the house 🙂

Nice work @audzzz!

You can barely tell that the patch is there.

Congratulations on a successful repair.

Jacob