How to remove door latch?

Hi @TJP,

Is this the striker plate on the door jamb?

Looking at its condition, I imagine you won't be looking to reuse it. Is that correct?

You could remove the paint from the top fixing using some paint stripper to reveal exactly what you are working with. It looks like it could be one of three things; a hex head screw that would require an allen key to remove, a damaged phillips head screw or a rivet. If it was a damaged phillips head screw or rivet, then it would need to be drilled out anyway.

Considering the bottom screw has already been drilled out, doing this again is likely your best option. Without the heads on the screws, there is nothing actually holding the striker plate in place, so you should be able to remove it using a pair of pliers, or by levering it off with a flat tool like a screwdriver or chisel.

Once the striker plate has been removed, if you needed to use these same screw holes, then you could just continue to drill out the rest of the screw that remains, or you could try using a screw extractor to remove them.

Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/53900#Comment_53900

Hi Jacob,

Yes this is a striker plate, I thought it would as called a latch, and yes will not be reinstalling as the deadlock I've installed came with a new striker plate.

Thanks for the info on removal, one question, if I drill out the remainder of the screw and the diameter of the hole is too big for the new screw, will I require a puddy of sorts to put in the hole to give the new screw something to screw into?

Regards,

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89173#Comment_89173

Hi @TJP,

If you screw out the hole and it is too big for the new screws, just use some wood glue to stick a wooden dowel, that's the same diameter as the hole, in the hole. You can then redrill the pilot holes and install your new screws.

Let me know if you have further questions.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110360#Comment_110360

Appreciate you Jacob,

Cheers,

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110360#Comment_110360

Hi @JacobZ

I managed to drill the top bit out of the door strike, but am having difficulties with the bottom screw as the only part remaining is the right half of the screw. Would this be a screw extractor job?

Regards,

R4addZ

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122546#Comment_122546

Hi @TJP

Ok so a larger drill bit to take out the head but then you will need to get a grip on what is left of the screw and extract it. If you can't do that, then you will have to drill it out completely which may not be easy and then fill the hole, preferably with a dowel and glue.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122546#Comment_122546

Hi @TJP,

Unfortunately, there's probably not enough there to use a screw extractor anymore.

As @R4addZ has already mentioned, you might have to use a larger drill bit to get the head out.

Or you could try putting a flat head screwdriver on the outside of the screw head and striking it with a hammer to bend the head towards the centre of the hole. There's a good chance it will snap in the process, but this isn't a huge issue.

Depending on how much of the screw shaft is left, and the location of the new striker plate, you might be able to just leave what is left in the hole where it is and install your dowel in the existing hole.

If the striker plate puts the screw hole firmly over the location of what's left of the screw, you'll have to drill it out with a larger drill bit.

Let me know how you go and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/130429#Comment_130429

Hi @R4addZ

For drilling out the remainder of the screw, I've been using a HSS drill bit as the screw is metal, seeming I'm drilling primarily wood should I swap out for a brad point or even a multi purpose drill bit?

Cheers,

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135325#Comment_135325

Hi @TJP,

You're likely doing more harm than good if it is taking this much effort to get it out. It's not going to change much if you use a different drill bit.

I'd probably just call it at this point and install the dowel and attach the striker plate.

As long as the tip of the new screw isn't hitting the old screw, it should just push it to the side as it is driven in.

Let me know how you go.

Jacob

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138587#Comment_138587

Hi @JacobZ

Will do that today and provide an update.

Regards,

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/138587#Comment_138587

Hi @JacobZ

Update on the strike plate install, it was a botched job, not due to advice just due to inexperienced and damaged wood. I managed to screw in the top screw but not the bottom.

I just want to know is it possible to replace part of a door jamb where the strike plate rests?

I know it looks relatively fine but not happy with my work.

Any advice would greatly appreciated.

Regards,

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/140767#Comment_140767

Hello @TJP

Yes, you can replace part of the door jamb if you want to create a new cut out for the striker plate. However, it is also possible to repair the cut that has already been applied to the area. If you wish to fill in the screw holes, I suggest using Selleys 320g Liquid Nails Construction Adhesive in combination with Taskmaster 10 x 38mm Timber Dowel Connectors. Please note that you might need to trim the dowels so that they fit into the screw holes.

Another option is to use Turbo 175ml Builders Bog Flexipack to fill in the screw holes and any other damaged section the timber might have. Once the bog cures you can drill into it like it was timber.

The last option will be to cut a section of the door frame out and replace it with a similarly sized timber piece. It will need to be glued and screwed so that it will be properly anchored to the existing door frame.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you have any other question we can help with, please let us know.

Eric

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/142373#Comment_142373

Good Evening @TJP

Having a read through all the steps you have taken and what the crew have suggested you are definently on the right path 🙂 Even now where I have worked on several plates I still get nervous for that "clean" look when finished.

The Builders Bog that @EricL has mentioned works a dream, I have used it before. Follow the instructions exactly.

I would remove the plate, (I can kinda see that top screw? and it looks like a new screw would go past it if the shaft is deep enough)

Clean up the area under the plate. It looks like its sitting a little high which could mean either a bit of built up paint, new plate is a bit larger. I would use a timber chisel and chip/cut out the plates width and height so the plate sits flush easily.

That other screw, can any of it be seen without the plate? If the metal is below the timber surface I would actually fill that hole with builders bog, let dry and then drill it for a new screw (the new screw will be countersunk so the old metal needs to be not touching the plate)

Try the plate with the new screws, if it looks good then remove and paint and refix 🙂 Yeah I know its a pain but painting under the plate looks much better then around the plate. One last question, does the deadbolt fit the hole in the plate as its fixed now?

Dave

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/143522#Comment_143522

G'day @EricL @Dave-1

Thank you very much for your replies.

Ok so builders bog seems like the most appealing option here, the problem with the top screw is that there is a broken off drill bit from a brad point 5mm which is acting as a blockage for any screws. I could remove it but would further damage the wood, would builders bog be able to repair the wood well enough if I made the hole a bit larger?

The other screw has now been removed but damaged the door jamb in doing so. I then drilled a 5mm hole for a 6mm wood boyle which after hammering in didn't look nor sit the best.

Yes, the deadbolt does indeed fit the plate as it is currently fixed.

So, in summary, drill bit stuck in top hole, damaged boyle in bottom hole. 😲

Can upload a photo tomorrow if needed.

Cheers,

EricL

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/144393#Comment_144393

Hi @TJP

I propose trying to get the broken drill bit out by drilling a larger hole beside it. This will allow you to insert a small flat head screwdriver and lever the broken bit out.

Let me call on our experienced members @Dave-1 and @Nailbag for their recommendations.

If you need further assistance, please let us know.

Eric

Hi @TJP

The way I would approach this is to first remove the broken screw, remove the striker plate and fill everything with builders bog and start fresh. Use one of these Sutton Viper bits to drill out the old broken bit. Use high-speed on your drill, but medium pressure. Once removed fill the hole by pressing beeping into it builders bog. Reposition the striker plate and drill a 3mm pilot hole and refit the plate.

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/54020#Comment_54020

G'day @EricL @Nailbag

Copy that, will drill out with viper bit and fill with bog.

Will post update when completed.

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89231#Comment_89231

Evening @TJP

If I had to choose between @EricL and @Nailbag 's suggestion I would try @EricL 's one as an easier first step. Broken screws, drill bits are a pain, patience, walk away and then a bit more patience has got me there before.

Dave

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110392#Comment_110392

Appreciate you @Dave-1

Take it easy,

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/89231#Comment_89231

Hi @TJP

I had another thought to get the screw out since you are bogging the holes anyway. Basically to pry/dig away the timber around the screw enough to get a good bite on the end with vice grips. These have awesome holding strength. You should be able to then simply turn it clockwise. This to @Dave-1 point would be easier than drilling the screw out being in wood and not in metal.

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/110402#Comment_110402

Hi @Nailbag

Appreciate the info, have now got both screws out, now to patch up the area with bog and chisel out a bigger place for the strike plate.

Will update when completed.

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/122578#Comment_122578

Sensational @TJP

Fill the hole/s just slightly higher than needed. Then as the bog goes off, use a sharp chisel to lightly shave off the excess level with the door frame. This is much easier to do at this stage and beats sanding as bog cures very hard. I just did the exact same task last week when a client wanted to swap out an old deadlock with a smart one, which had a sticker plate system 1/3rd the size.

Nailbag

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/130453#Comment_130453

Hi @Nailbag@ @Dave-1

Job complete, will eventually paint and look at filling the gap to right of strike plate and painting but there are a lot of jobs around the house before I paint! I'm happy with current result. Thank you very much for your expertise,

Dave-1

https://www.workshop.bunnings.com.au/discussion/comment/135338#Comment_135338

Evening @TJP

Great way to finish a Friday! 🙂 Good work. Door jambs/locks/latches are around an 8 on my stress list while Im working on them 🙂

Onwards to the next job!

Dave