Hello @Sugar
Is that section of your garden where you've circled in red just ordinary soil? If it is, you'll need to build a concrete slab if you are planning on putting floor tiles on that section. However, if you are putting tiled pavers that is a different matter and the preparation for the base will be different as well. If you can tell me the exact type of tile you're planning to put in, I can then provide you with the necessary advice.
Eric
Hi @EricL I have not dug here but looks more like just pebbles
i would like to have tiled pavers like in these photos
thanks
Here are some step-by-step guides that will help you with your tile paving project:
My best advice is to measure the space very well so that you can clearly define the number of tile pavers you'll need.
If you need further assistance, please let me know.
Hi @EricL
@thanks for providing instructions for the pavers.
could you please also share the base preparation for Tiles and how to lay them outdoors, if I had to choose this. I was thinking of deciding only then. Cheers
Hi @Sugar,
If you were using tiles in this location, as Eric mentioned earlier, you would need to pour a concrete slab in this location.
Check out How To Pour A Small Concrete Slab for some guidance on this step.
Once the concrete has been poured, graded away from the house, finished and cured for a sufficient amount of time, generally around 28 days, you would apply a primer such as Davco Ultraprime Surface Primer to the surface of the concrete, then allow the primer to dry fully in line with the manufacturer’s instructions before starting any tiling.
Plan your tile layout before mixing any adhesive by dry laying a row to check alignment, joint spacing, and cut positions. This helps avoid small sliver cuts at edges and ensures the finished layout looks balanced and intentional.
You can then mix a flexible, exterior-rated tile adhesive suitable for the tile type and outdoor conditions. Apply the adhesive using a notched trowel sized appropriately for the tile, combing the adhesive in one direction. For outdoor tiling, back butter each tile to ensure full coverage and reduce voids where water could collect.
Lay the tiles into the adhesive while it is still wet, pressing and slightly twisting to collapse the ridges. Use tile spacers to maintain consistent joints.
Allow the adhesive to cure fully before grouting. Use a flexible, exterior-grade grout and pack it firmly into the joints. Clean off excess grout before it hardens and protect the tiled area from rain, frost, and direct sun until the grout has cured completely.
Once the grout has fully cured, apply a suitable grout sealer if recommended by the grout manufacturer. This helps reduce moisture absorption, staining, and efflorescence, particularly in outdoor areas exposed to weather.
I hope this helps to clarify. Let me know if you have any further questions.
Jacob
Hi @EricL and @JacobZ I think I will be going with Pavers instead of Tiles, as pavers seem to be more doable than the other.
I watched the video and I have few thing for confirmation.
The person in the video did not use weed matt. Is it optional or is it better if I use it ?
Road base = https://www.bunnings.com.au/ki-carma-20kg-road-base-landscape-stones_p0130552 . Please confirmed I have picked up the right one.
Paving Sand = https://www.bunnings.com.au/brunnings-20kg-landscape-paver-sand_p3460166?store=8158&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23022021534&gbraid=0AAAAADtbEB_qmPphnEpsnr1FjY_xIUSXw&gclid=CjwKCAjwvsvTBhBaEiwAmf-3njeHkXBAGJj6ktN8tKpDsnPS5JUb30r7v3PkzM2xyKP0gA_9hkP3VhoChXAQAvD_BwE . Please confirmed I have picked up the right one.
Pavers = https://www.bunnings.com.au/brighton-masonry-600-x-300-x-40mm-charcoal-mypave-paver_p0144533?store=8158&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23022021534&gbraid=0AAAAADtbEB_qmPphnEpsnr1FjY_xIUSXw&gclid=CjwKCAjwvsvTBhBaEiwAmf-3nrrR1Mxvtj1vD-GW95uHORtfLZ1o103bLIlJgtmkKgJXpaAfxGcHlhoCRpQQAvD_BwE I know this is my preference.
Paver Jointing sand = Could not find it in Bunnings, can you help me find it. Thanks
Cutting the Pavers = Brick Bolster, will this be enough? Any other recommendations.
Screed rail = what can be alternative to use in screeding session ?
Thanks a lot
It sounds like you've settled on a good plan, @Sugar. Pavers are generally a more achievable DIY project than outdoor tiles, and they're much more forgiving if the ground moves over time.
To answer your questions:
Please let us know if you have any other questions as your project progresses. We're keen to see how it turns out.
Mitchell
Hi @MitchellMc @JacobZ
I have started to take off the top part and prepare the base for pavement.
And what I have found so far is this area has got this gravels until deep down. Some more work to be done tomorrow to go deeper. Images are here
My question is: Can these gravels be used as Road Base for paving ? If that is the case, i will save some bucks here.
Also, there is another area where i will be doing the same paving.
Where i have used purple arrows, that's where slight slope start from. I will be digging here just like in above area. I am wondering how can contain the paving ? The area will certainly go deeper than what is there at the moment and slope thing may not be applicable anymore, but how do i contain the pavers, sand and road base where orange line has indicated. or, follow what's been shown by the gentlemen in the video.
Thank you for your help.
That gravel looks like it would be a reasonably good base for pavers, however it would not be quite as good as road base. Road base is a mix of stones around that size, with much finer aggregate, that when wet and compacted settles into an extremely solid base. What you have appears to be just gravel without the finer aggregate between it. You could certainly use it, but it will never compact quite as well as road base.
You can hold your pavers in place by creating what is called a concrete haunch, which is essentially a wedge of concrete that runs along the outside edge of the pavers. You'll want to keep the top of the concrete below the finished surface of the paving, so it can be covered with soil and does not affect drainage. The haunch helps support the edge of the paved area and prevents the pavers from spreading or shifting over time.
Let me know what you think and if you have further questions, please don't hesitate to ask.
hi @JacobZ I have gone deeper, and it turns out there is a weed mat underneath. Meaning, the gravel is not all the way to depth. So Going to take all of them and will get Road base. I was calculating the cost for the pavers (600x400x40) for this and another similar area; it is costing me roughly >2k, including equipment hiring cost and all the materials for these two areas ( 18 sq. metre)
I am kind of thinking what else could be an option to do this. I was also thinking do Concreting. Is this doable ? Will that be cheaper than pavers?
Would like to hear your thoughts on this. Thanks
Yes, concreting is certainly another option for these areas, and at 18m² it is a reasonable alternative to consider.
Whether it works out cheaper than paving will depend quite a bit on how much of the work you are comfortable doing yourself. With paving, there are costs for the road base, bedding sand, pavers, jointing sand and equipment hire. A concrete area has fewer finishing materials, but you'll still need to excavate and prepare a suitable compacted base, install formwork and reinforcement, and then order or mix the concrete. For an area of this size, you would generally be looking at having ready-mix concrete delivered rather than mixing it yourself.
One advantage of concrete is that you won't need to purchase all those individual pavers. However, pouring and finishing a reasonably large concrete area can be quite demanding, particularly if you haven't done it before. Once the concrete arrives, there is also a limited amount of time to place, screed and finish it. You would also need to make sure the finished surface has an appropriate fall so water drains away from the house.
I'd suggest getting a couple of quotes for having the concrete supplied, and potentially one for having the slab professionally poured and finished. You could then compare those figures with your $2,000-plus paving estimate. Depending on concrete access, excavation requirements and how much work you do yourself, you might find the price difference isn't as large as expected.
Another thing worth considering is the finished appearance and future repairs. Pavers are relatively DIY-friendly and individual pavers can be lifted or replaced later, whereas concrete gives you a simpler continuous surface but can crack and is more difficult to alter once installed.
Since you've now discovered the weed mat and confirmed that the existing gravel isn't a suitable full-depth base, I think this is a good point to compare the total cost of both options before purchasing the road base and pavers.
